How to get to the Great Wall of China. If your vacation falls during the Republic of China Day or Chinese New Year celebrations, travel to another country

“Do you want to go to China alone, without a group of tourists?” the Khabarovsk travel agency worker looked at me with undisguised horror. “You’ll get lost there, if only because you don’t know the language!” “I assure you, everything will be fine, just help me get a visa!” - I insisted.

The desire to see the Celestial Empire was so strong that the instinct of self-preservation was dulled, and an inner voice persuaded me to fly, because “there are so many interesting things there!” At the same time, I wanted to move around the country on my own, without the standard tourist “look left, look right.” It turned out that this is not at all difficult. Moreover, in my opinion, this is the most correct way to see the country in all its diversity. Of course, it would be nice to have friends in China - this automatically solves the most difficult issue - with the language. In addition, knowledge of local color and advice from “insiders” can significantly reduce not only your transportation costs, but also insure against monetary losses, and in some cases, save your stomach.

Towards the language barrier!

Before traveling, you need to be aware that in China everyone speaks only Chinese. English is used very little, mainly in big cities- Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong. At first, of course, it’s difficult to get used to: all signs, announcements, schedules and menus consist of hieroglyphs, which are rarely duplicated in English. At first, I was saved by a phrasebook, which contained not only a transcription of Chinese words, but also their spelling. After much practice, I, of course, learned to correctly pronounce basic expressions like “hello” and “how much is it,” but I realized that it is better to show more complex phrases by pointing a finger at a book. The fact is that there are so many dialects in Chinese that a Chinese from the north will never understand a southerner, and vice versa. For example, “forty-four” in northerners will be “si shi si”, and residents of the south say “si si si” - something like “shorok setyre”. The official language is Putonghua - translated as "common language". To teach its citizens to speak the same way, the government is making many efforts. You turn on some radio, and instead of music all the way there there are only conversations in Mandarin.

Where and how to go

Southern China is good at any time of the year. It’s better not to travel to the north in winter - the weather is practically no different from our Central Siberian weather. When choosing a route, you need to take into account your financial capabilities and the duration of the visa. For those who want to start their journey from Beijing, it makes sense to take a direct air ticket (about five hundred and fifty dollars round trip), and from there move around the country by train. If you have limited time, you can fly from city to city by plane - fortunately, in China they are affordable. I’ll tell you more about the railway service. Tickets for any destination can only be purchased at station ticket offices. The only problem is to explain which ticket you need and where you need it. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in Chinese, since even if the station has a window with a “Foreigners” sign, it is not a fact that the cashier girl speaks English.

You need to arrive at the station 20-30 minutes before the train departs - this way you will pass control relatively calmly. The train will leave minute by minute, and as soon as you get stuck in a traffic jam of Chinese people who want to leave with you, it’s all good.

There are several classes of Chinese carriages:

The cheapest ones are without seats. In them, passengers stand or lie on the floor - on newspapers, on anything; Sedentary. It’s better not to take risks if you’re traveling far and your back is acting up; Hard-slippers, reminiscent of our second-class seats, only with three tiers of shelves, the bed is already made, but there are no side seats; The compartments are similar to Russian ones, only the carriages are much cleaner, the beds are ruffled, and there are carpets on the floor. Every train has a dining car - after all, the Chinese are constantly eating something. On all trains, washbasins are located in plain sight, separate from the toilet, and thus morning queues for the toilet are a rare occurrence. But you can, for example, enjoy the spectacle of the morning washing of dentures, which an unfamiliar Chinese grandmother does with special care.

I traveled from Beijing to Jinan in a hard sleeper (about 6 hours), and the ticket cost me 73 yuan - translated into about 200 rubles in our money. The price of a ticket from Beijing to Shanghai (overnight on the road) is 250 yuan, that is, about 685 rubles. Inexpensive, but for me, for example, it was difficult to get used to Chinese trains. Mainly due to the fact that passengers constantly smoke, eat Doshirak noodles, talk loudly and without embarrassment - both men and women - walk around the carriage in long johns.

Where to live and what to take with you

A room with breakfast in a four-star hotel in the center of Harbin cost me 300 yuan per night (eight hundred and twenty rubles). The hotel was not bad, but only Chinese lived in it, and the staff did not understand a word of English. Attempts to ask where their gym was looked like a helpless flapping of hands - with the purpose of using gestures to show the “exercise machine”, and requests to wake up in certain time caused confusion among the receptionist.

Hostels - youth hostels - can be a more economical accommodation option for young people. One bed in a double room at the International Youth Hostel, which is located right next to central station in Beijing, can cost 70 yuan (200 rubles) per day. Everything you need for life is available: a shower, a 24-hour bar and an Internet cafe. By the way, you can save even more if you stay in a “dorma” - a room with 3-12 beds and amenities in the hallway. Depending on the city, such housing costs 20-60 yuan (55-175 rubles) per night.

To this standard set of hotel search tools I will add one more - touts - an option to stay in private apartment. People offering “cheap apartments in the center of Beijing” crowd the train stations and ask for very little money. I haven’t tried it myself, but knowledgeable travelers assure me that there is no need to be afraid of them - here, unlike, for example, India, there is no danger that there will be any problems with these apartments.

When traveling, I advise you to take a comfortable backpack, good sports shoes - for long hiking, a thermos (boiling water is available everywhere and for free) and more of some small souvenirs such as nesting dolls - the Chinese love to receive gifts and may even help you somehow as a thank you.

What to see in China

Of all the cities, Beijing is, of course, the most impressive. Or, as foreigners call it, Beijin. After I visited it, it’s easy to understand Quentin Tarantino, who came here to film his film “Kill Bill” but was never able to leave. He bought an apartment in Beijing and, according to rumors, eventually plans to move to the Middle Kingdom completely. The city shocked me with its monumentality. I expected to see crowds of Chinese rushing somewhere with crazy eyes, a crush on the streets, traffic jams. But none of this happened. The flow of people moved smoothly and without hysterical bustle, as in Moscow.

In architecture, two main directions are connected here: eastern and western. The first is represented by pagodas, with easily recognizable, curved roofs and the obligatory dragons as a design element. Secondly, skyscrapers, which do not block the space here at all.

Everyone who comes to Beijing for the first time begins their exploration of the city with the famous Tiananmen - Square of Heavenly Peace. It is the largest in the world, accommodating one million people! It is always crowded here - not only because of foreign tourists, but also because of the Chinese, residents of distant provinces, who come to take pictures at the mausoleum of Mao Zedong. Both adults and children fly kites in the square. Here you can also buy your own kite - in the form of a shark, butterfly or other monster.

On the square, I noticed a small child - about 3-4 years old, who had a hole in the back of his pants and his bare butt was blown by the wind. I thought it was my parents' oversight. But then I saw several more kids with the same strange cut of their pants. It turned out that thrifty Chinese do not like to spend money on diapers. The child wants to go to the toilet, sits down - and you're done!

In the mornings, around six o'clock, the Chinese go out to the square and practice group taijiquan - a melancholic exercise, the meaning of which consists of sluggish hand passes and careful steps from side to side.

Not far from Mao's mausoleum is the entrance to the Forbidden City - huge complex palace buildings where the great emperors of the Qing and Ming dynasties lived. Hundreds of pagodas, thousands of courtyards - the spectacle is amazing in its scale. Previously, mere mortals were forbidden to enter here, but now they can - for only 10 yuan (27 rubles).

Leaving the Forbidden City, you find yourself in the wonderful Beihai Park (North Sea Park), where the crowned heads rested, apparently indulging in thoughts about the fatherland. Needless to say, the Chinese know a lot about landscape architecture. Half of the area is occupied by a lake, around which incredibly beautiful weeping willows grow. This park is loved by couples and calligraphers. The first - because here you can kiss peacefully on the benches, the second - because you can draw hieroglyphs with water right on the asphalt.

From the park you can walk to famous Temple Heaven. Now China is probably the most unbelieving country in the world (ninety-five percent are atheists). And before they believed in Heaven and other deities. The road to the temple is already a test. You have to walk along a narrow stone path for about half an hour. It was very edifying when, panting and wheezing, I was overtaken at the last stage of the climb by a wizened Chinese old woman who covered the path easily and naturally.

There is a Wall of Whispers on the temple grounds. It is semicircular in shape, and this allows you to hear your interlocutor, even if he is standing a hundred meters away from you and muttering something under his breath. The Chinese love to have fun by standing at a distance from each other against the wall for hours and talking.

Fewer discoveries awaited me in Shanghai. Maybe because it’s very modern, or maybe because I didn’t stay there for long. As soon as they were not called in different time this city: both the “Paris of the East” and the “Whore of China”... This is a city of adventurers, gamblers, sailors, opium merchants and opium addicts, a city of child prostitution and slave labor, a city of socialists, communists and revolutionaries, the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party, the cradle Revolutions and the birthplace of the Shanghai Commune. It is home to 6.5 million people - one of the highest population densities in the world. Here great amount skyscrapers. And they, unlike the Beijing ones, put pressure. Fashionable buildings easily coexist with old buildings, from which lines with laundry strung on them stretch in all directions. There is no shame in hanging old faded panties and leggings for everyone to see.

In the city center there is a wide asphalt space called People's Square. Processions and demonstrations were held here. In 1969, 2.5 million people gathered in the square to protest against Soviet Union. And now the walkers are peacefully feeding the pigeons.

On the streets you can see both young yuppies and informals. During the walk I had a chance to meet real Chinese punks. They had a very shabby look, despite the traditional skinny hair, spiked jackets, grinders and guitars on their backs. They themselves are skinny and unkempt. When they tried to play something from the Sex Pistols in front of a department store, I wanted to go over and feed them a hot lunch.

Walking in Shanghai is a must. Better - according to Nanjing Lu, main street. Bright shop windows, neon advertising everywhere. And shops, shops, shops. Nanjing Lu leads to the embankment of the Huangpu River. Once upon a time in colonial times, there was a famous sign at the entrance: “Dogs and Chinese are not allowed.” Today, crowds of Chinese and foreigners wander around here, admiring the view of Banda at night.

Rotten eggs and duck skins

It is often joked about the Chinese that they eat everything that flies, except airplanes, everything that moves on land, except a tractor, and everything that floats in water, except a submarine.

Chinese chefs profess the principles of culinary art that developed five thousand years ago. They love unexpected combinations of products: meat with sugar and fruit, seaweed with nuts, flower petals with hot pepper, hedgehogs with spices. In order to cook broth, for example, they can take beef, poultry and fish at the same time.

There are about 14 culinary schools in China, the most famous of which are Shandong, Sichuan, Jiangsu-Zhejiang, Beijing and Guangdong. The last one is the most “extreme”. It uses snakes, field mice, wild cats, dogs, fur seals, crocodiles, bear paws, monkey brains, and bird tongues. The technology of some dishes is simply savage. When preparing Kunming Lake Fried Carp, scraping the scales, cutting, frying and serving takes only four minutes. When the fish is served, it still opens its mouth and the gills move for thirty minutes. This agony continues even when the fish is eaten to the bone. The secret of such vitality is that the head of the fish is not fried and the central nervous system is preserved. In general, Greenpeace is resting.

"Queen of the Chinese table" - Peking duck. Instead of duck, however, they bring duck skins, which tourists are very surprised by. But if you come to a fish restaurant, it’s hard to make a mistake: everything swims in aquariums. You come up, choose, and ten minutes later they bring you the dish. True, it was difficult for me to come to terms with the fact that the selected fish was being killed with a shoe before my eyes, causing its entrails to scatter throughout the restaurant.

The Chinese also love rotten duck eggs. To prepare such an egg, you need to keep it in lime for 30 days! Its yolk is black and has an indescribable taste. The protein is like rubber, almost transparent in appearance.

In a restaurant of average level and below, the Chinese "of average level and below" behave absolutely, from a European point of view, like pigs: they blow their noses and spit directly on the floor, throw napkins, bones and scraps there, and yell at the whole room, especially when drink. By the way, they also cough on the streets - loudly, wiping their nose and mouth with their hand. Even women.

The Chinese love to put food on each other's plates. And when they bring the bill, a serious dispute breaks out between them: who will pay. Everyone strives to do this for everyone else in order to prove their privileged position. Our compatriots enjoy going to restaurants with the Chinese...

Behavior Observations

The Chinese are very loud people. Their guttural voices are one of a kind. Once in the USA, an anecdotal incident occurred. Two men from Guangdong province were having a peaceful conversation, but passing Americans thought they were about to get into a fight and called the police. The police demanded clarification, but the two interlocutors replied that they were talking “in a whisper.”

Why are they screaming? The Chinese believe that the stronger and higher his voice, the more convincing his arguments look.

In a country with a population of nearly 1.3 billion people, more than a quarter of the population regularly engages in sports. Mass physical education covers all educational institutions, enterprises and institutions, villages, units of the People's Liberation Army of China, the elderly and the disabled. The Chinese habit of doing group exercises is known throughout the world. Moreover, they do it at different times of the day. Many people study in groups and to music, but there are also individuals. There are athletes with sticks. They wave them like Shaolin monks right on the streets.

It is very common to see people walking backwards. This is probably an exercise for developing the vestibular apparatus. In every city there are courtyards equipped with shaping equipment, available to everyone, and free of charge. Old men dashingly throw their legs over the tall railings, and sometimes do the splits. And with millions of Chinese pedaling bicycles to and from work every day, they have toned legs.

Amid the craze for sports, the Chinese smoke and drink a lot. Vodka and cigarettes are sold everywhere, although their quality is terrible. There are 320 million smokers in China, of which twenty million are women. Hence the large number of “nicotine deaths”. But no one indulges in this addiction on the streets - the Chinese prefer to do it in a quiet environment: in a restaurant or bar.

Overall, I'm happy with my trip. Maybe I didn’t see this country from the most romantic and glossy side, but, in any case, the trip left a lot of impressions and memories.

Yes. I agree with the previous comment that Beijing has long faded in comparison to Shanghai and Hong Kong, and is reminiscent of Moscow in the 80s, where the author saw so many unusual things, it’s incomprehensible, for me Beijing is always, on the contrary, just a transshipment base, others are much more interesting Chinese cities, in this case I don't mean cultural monuments, of which there are many in Beijing.
25.07.11 Natalia

Indeed, the comment is very detailed. but it feels like the author visited China 10 years ago (the description of Shanghai is definitely 10 years ago, the spirit of communism is not in the air there, that’s for sure). although, perhaps, if you drive around the country in reserved seat carriage, it won’t even seem that way.
05.06.10 Olga

Good afternoon, thank you very much for such a detailed comment, because... I myself am planning to travel without a guide and it was important for me to understand how possible this is, and your review turned out to be more than decisive in favor of traveling without a guide, thank you again!
01.03.10 Yana

In the early 2000s, Chinese citizens took only 10.5 million trips. By 2017, the number of such trips had grown to 145 million - an incredible 1,380%!

In less than 20 years the market international tourism China has reached the highest position in the world, ahead of even the United States. According to the World tourist organization, in 2016, Chinese tourists spent $261.1 billion in other countries; in 2000, this amount was about $10 billion. According to preliminary data, in 2017 their spending amounted to about $300 billion. American tourists spent a relatively small $123.6 billion in 2016.

It is noteworthy that only 7% of Chinese people - 99 million people - actively travel. For comparison: the share of such citizens among the US population is 40%, and in the UK - 76%. The potential for growth in China's tourism market, with a population of 1.4 billion, is therefore astonishing. China predicts that by 2030, more than 400 million Chinese will travel.

According to the institute, this means that of the 600 million trips that will be added to the current number by 2030 (1.2 billion people currently travel, in 12 years their number will grow to 1.8 billion) almost half will be made by the Chinese. The Chinese international tourism market will account for almost a quarter of the world's.

It is not surprising that tourism departments of various countries are already trying to attract a growing army Chinese tourists. For example, the advertising campaign for the Visit Britain website started back in 2014. Tour operators, hotels and attractions were required to provide information in Cantonese or Mandarin, and to tailor products to suit the Chinese market and culture.

Where do Chinese tourists go?

The number of 145 million trips abroad can be misleading: the calculations took into account special administrative districts China - Hong Kong and Macau, as well as the island of Taiwan, which the state considers its territory. In 2017, 69.5 million tourists visited these regions.

Domestic tourism is also very popular among the Chinese. A lot of tourists travel to Beijing and Shanghai. Due to the influx of guests on weekends, they even block car traffic on the main streets. According to Telegraph Travel expert Sally Peck, who formerly lived in China, destinations related to modern history countries. For example, many people visit the Three Gorges Dam in a poor industrial region of China. Young thrill-seeking tourists are heading to the mountainous Yunnan province, which borders Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam and is one of China's most ethnically diverse regions.

The Great Wall of China sometimes looks like this

Other Asian countries are also benefiting from increased Chinese tourism. Top ten popular destinations these include Thailand, Japan, Vietnam, South Korea and Singapore. The USA and Italy close the ranking.

Growth of the tourism industry in Thailand

1990 - 5.3 million tourists annually
1995 - 7 million tourists annually
1998 - 7.8 million tourists annually
2005 - 11.6 million tourists annually
2010 - 15.9 million tourists annually
2014 - 24.8 million tourists annually
2015 - 29.9 million tourists annually
2016 - 32.6 million tourists annually
2017 - 35.4 million tourists annually

The most popular locations are Phuket in the south of the country and Chiang Mai in the north.

As tourism has grown in popularity in China, the reception rates of travelers in neighboring countries have also increased.

Thailand, the leader after Hong Kong and Macau, received 35.4 million foreign tourists last year - 668% more than in 1990 (5.3 million tourists). 28.4 million tourists came to Japan in 2017 (887% more than 3.2 million in 1990). Only 250 thousand travelers arrived in Vietnam in 1990; in 2017, 12.9 million people visited the country - an increase of 5,160%! All these indicators would not be possible without Chinese tourists.

Development of China's airports

The tourist activity of the Chinese has provoked the rapid expansion of the country's airports. In 2017, nine of them were included in the list of the 50 busiest airports in the world, and three were in the top ten. In 2010, these figures were, respectively, six airports on the long list and one in the top ten.

Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, for example, is one of the fastest growing transfer hubs in the world. In 2017, it received 65.8 million passengers, while in 2000 it received only 12.8 million.

How do Chinese tourists look and behave?

A recent European Commission report states that for the Chinese, “time is the most valuable resource.” They prefer to travel efficiently - not to linger at sights for long. Chinese tourists in Europe are most interested in its art and culture, as well as small towns. They save on food, housing and transport, but are willing to shop.

According to Sally Peck, when the Chinese come to Europe, they try to visit every largest capitals and go shopping there. The British boutique town of Bicester Village, consisting almost entirely of shops, is no less popular among Chinese tourists than Buckingham Palace.

“The Chinese prefer popular attractions - Big Ben in London or vineyards in Bordeaux,” notes Peck. They are not too interested in little-known places.

Concerning appearance, the Chinese prefer baseball caps or visors with the logo of their tour operator, and also invariably wear visible photographic equipment, says Pekk. Also, according to her, many Chinese women choose completely inappropriate shoes when traveling. For example, in the mountains you can often find tourists wearing high heels.

Risks of overtourism

Cities such as Venice, Barcelona and Dubrovnik are currently suffering from an influx of tourists. Experts fear that the rise of Chinese tourism could make staying there unbearable.

The Chinese were traveling and lost their eggs. The girls thought - raspberries, bit off half (folk ditty)

Podmoskovnaya electric train Yaroslavl direction. We sat down. One person at a time at the window. Noses in phones, headphones, respectively, in ears. Everything as usual. Now there will be a carload full of us - the good guys working in the capital of the Motherland, the hero city of Moscow. Somehow, unexpectedly, the train jerked and slowly, creaking and swaying on the switches, began moving towards the region. I look around: there are surprisingly few people, they are sitting, sleepily looking around, and, habitually meeting their eyes with fellow travelers, they do not even look away, but simply look through; This is how all residents of big cities look at their own kind. Apparently, it is for this indifferent look that the rest of the population of our vast Motherland does not like Muscovites, without even realizing why. Well, what can you do, you won’t be nice by force... but we, who have come in large numbers, love you very much, with all our hearts. This is our adaptive reaction to the forced daily movement among countless human masses. We survive as best we can, don’t blame us.

So, we are moving home as usual, so that tomorrow morning we will be back on the same train again, pushing and swearing, looking “through” each other... We approach the Moscow 3 platform. And then my attention is drawn to a group of passengers, compactly, but with huge luggage of checkered “shuttle” bags, located in one of the six-seater “compartments”. The guys are not ours - Asians, they chatter in a somewhat alarming manner, point their fingers at the window, the phrases are intonationally interrogative, although, perhaps, in “their” language they are not interrogative at all, but affirmative or even imperative. I look closely at them and even listen somewhere. And the kids are getting more and more excited, starting to helplessly turn their heads, looking for a response. “Help me, please!” I read in their narrowed eyes the only foreign phrase I know. I get up, come closer, loudly and with an accent to make it clearer, I ask what happened, how can I help? In Russian, the stump is clear, I ask. Since I don’t speak other languages very well. And with their nationality, not everything is clear yet. Would it be clear what's the point? Then one of my counterparts, the most brainy one, began to shove some pieces of paper into my nose. I see the papers are in Russian. Well, thank God! Tickets! To Beijing! Yes, and this brainy one babbles something like “xiao, liao, we are Chinese, xiao, liao, we are Beijing.” And with gestures he asks: why is Beijing now a completely, completely different side? Illumination came from Above! This, therefore, is a team of Chinese guest workers or whatever their name is, having worked their shift sewing local “branded” clothes somewhere in the near Moscow region, returning to their homeland, judging by the ticket, to Beijing. By and large, I have great respect for the Eastern mentality, but these guys, apparently, were recruited by bad people somewhere in the remote villages of the Celestial Empire, promising a lot of money for working in Russia, and, having profited from their gullibility and cheap labor, they imprisoned on the train to Moscow and handed me tickets “Moscow-Beijing”, without bothering to explain that in Moscow you need to change trains long distance. The train, approaching Moscow, moved in short dashes, stopping at each pillar, then, after standing for a few minutes at the Yaroslavl station, it went back to the region, either to Alexandrov, or to Zagorsk, or rather, to Sergiev Posad. I don’t care, it won’t get past my native Mytishchi, but the Chinese can’t get home on this shaitan-arba. But they didn’t know this! Well, their benefactors-employers didn’t tell them about the transfer, they forgot, damn it... I look at the tickets, then at the clock, it turns out that there are 20 minutes left before the departure of their train. The train stopped right there. The doors opened, and opposite was standing opposite, also with open doors. I grab the checkered bags and drag them to the exit, throwing them onto the platform. I shout to the Chinese: “Go there quickly, coolies!” Language barrier collapsed on its own. The boys, who were smoking in the vestibule of the oncoming train, quickly realized what was happening and pulled the “stop tap”, which, by the way, is not a “stop” at all, but blocks the closing of the doors, and began to drag numerous bags along with numerous Chinese into their carriage . I shout after them to let the “checkered” ones off at Yaroslavka and take them to the first tracks, from where the trains go Far East are coming. But, probably, no one heard me, our doors and theirs closed and the trains each went in their own direction.

I'm going home to Mytishchi. To the northeast. The Chinese are also going home, but in the other direction, to the southwest, although China is in the east, even much east of Mytishchi... It’s a paradox, however... I’ll come home and look in the geographical atlas, it should be gathering dust somewhere on a shelf. In the meantime, you can take a nap for about forty minutes, pressing your forehead against the rattling glass. No, everything is fine, everything is fine... The earth is round... I hope the Chinese will catch their train. Then they’ll get to Beijing in a week or two... probably...

How to organize an independent trip to China in 2020! Visa, tickets, hotels, food, transport, security. How much does it cost to travel to China? Cost calculation, tips and observations.

The material is prepared on the basis personal experience independent travel to China by the author of the text: three months of living in Shenzhen, as well as trips to Hong Kong and Guangzhou.

China is huge and very diverse, so it is impossible to clearly say where prices and conditions are. I will start from Shenzhen - the center of all electronics, a young and rapidly growing city in the very south of China, which borders on Hong Kong. I will tell you what a tourist can find useful when planning an independent trip to China in 2020, and I will also give my own observations about the country and tips for travelers.

How to get a visa to China yourself

A visa to China is required for Russians, except in rare cases. A regular single entry costs 1,500 rubles, a double entry costs 3,000, and a multiple entry costs 4,500 rubles. Plus a bank commission of 2.5% per person is charged.

Urgent single entry - 2400, urgent double entry - 3900, urgent multiple entry - 5400. There is also an express review, which costs more.

It is better to stay in chain hotels, as they care about their reputation. A night in such a hotel costs from $30-40 per Double Room. Chain hotels in Shenzhen: Greentree Inn, Sheraton, Novotel, etc.

Adviсe:

Look for a hotel with good soundproofing - the Chinese are noisy.
Photos of hotels do not always correspond to reality.
Sometimes a room may be clean and comfortable, but have foreign odors, such as dampness. Or the windows look out onto the courtyard, where there is a landfill or a Chinese street cafe (which produces odors no better).

Rent. If you want personal comfortable housing, look for a room, apartment or house on Airbnb. The choice of housing is huge. Renting an apartment in Beijing costs approximately $30-50 per day, in Shenzhen - from $27. You can rent an apartment on Airbnb for $600-$1,500 for a month (rooms cost $500-$900). The price depends on the city, area and condition of the house. For example, in Shenzhen, near the beach in a resort area, an excellent apartment was rented for $600. There are discounts for long-term rentals.

Entrance to Shenzhen Novotel Watergate (Photo © booking.com / Shenzhen Novotel Watergate)

Chinese food and cuisine

Another difficulty you will encounter when independent trip to China in 2020 is food. It is very specific here, so going to a cafe can cause problems, especially if you don’t know the language. But here McDonald's and KFC come to the rescue. There are also many well-known European chains where you can order food from pictures. However, their prices are much higher - for example, a side dish with meat costs from $6. Sometimes tea is included in the price. At McDonald's, a Big Mac (potatoes, cola, double cheeseburger) will cost about $5.

In general, you can eat in a cafe for $5 or more; in restaurants, a simple dish costs from $10.

Where you can eat inexpensively and deliciously in China:

Cafe for locals. You can eat a hearty meal there for $1.50, but no one guarantees the quality of the products and compliance with sanitary standards. The downside is that it is difficult to order dishes, since often there are no pictures or there are few of them, and if there are, it is not clear what it is.
"Muslim women"- these are local cafes run by Chinese Muslims. The food there is prepared in compliance with all standards and is really very tasty. I really love their noodles and recommend you try them. They cook it in front of you, and it’s interesting to watch this process. Cost from $1.5 for a huge portion.
Supermarket. A kilo of bananas costs $1-2, apples $2-3, tangerines $1-2. I do not recommend buying sausages. This is not at all what we expect: Chinese sausages are made from soy with a bunch of spices and additives. They taste sweet and have a specific smell, but for the sake of curiosity you can try them once.

(Photo © Jo@net / flickr.com / Licensed CC BY 2.0)

Internet and cellular communications in China

All SIM cards are sold only with a passport in specialized places. Price mobile communications quite high - from $20 per month, plus they charge the same amount for purchasing a card and choosing a tariff plan. To purchase a normal tariff and understand everything, you need to know Chinese. If you need internet in China, it's easier to use Wi-Fi while traveling - in big cities it can be found everywhere.

There is another problem that many people face - blocking all Google services, YouTube, Instagram. To access them you need to install a special VPN program.

China Mobile is the largest mobile operator in the world (Photo © Open Grid Scheduler Grid Engine / flickr.com)

Transport in China

Transport in China is excellent. The infrastructure is very developed. Planes, ferries, trains (including high-speed), buses, subways and taxis. You can get to any point without any problems. Travel on buses - from $0.3, in the metro - from $0.5.

If you are going to China for a month, buy a travel pass. The plastic card can be topped up and used in the metro and buses, and then returned and received money back. Cost 4$. This is very convenient: you don’t need to find out the cost of tickets, buy tokens, or stand in lines. Accordingly, the problem of language disappears. For trips within one city, $10-30 per month is enough.

A very common type of transportation is electric mopeds. Essentially this is a taxi, only less comfortable, more extreme and cheaper - from $2. The main advantage is the absence of traffic jams, since mopeds go wherever they want. The only negative is the language. You need to agree on the price and destination.

(Photo © Lαin / flickr.com / License CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

ATMs and cards

Be prepared that many stores may not accept your Visa or MasterCard card, since in China there is another payment system - UnianPay. This card can be issued at any bank for free. If you need to withdraw money from yours, there are many ATMs for this.

Chinese mentality

Don't be surprised if in China you feel like a monkey that everyone wants to take a photo with. For a Chinese, having a photo with a European is an indicator of coolness and status, so you will always be the center of attention. They will always turn around and stare at you without hesitation. In addition to increased interest, the Chinese will try to make money on the “white man”. For them, we are walking money, so bargain in all stores. For example, we once reduced the price of a shirt from $35 to $5.

We can talk for a long time about the culture and upbringing of the majority of Chinese. Giving way to a girl, letting her go ahead, letting people exit a vehicle, throwing garbage in the trash bin - this is not about them. They also have no sense of tact. Don’t be surprised if at the first meeting you are asked about your personal life, salary and health. The Chinese themselves are very cunning and enterprising, but at the same time good-natured.

Useful words in Chinese for a traveler:

Security in China

Do you know where the tradition of wearing a backpack on the front came from? From China. Petty theft is very common there. In big cities you can find a policeman everywhere who will gladly help in any situation. Also on all buses, metro, shopping centers, and there are simply cameras hanging on the street, so in big cities there is nothing to be afraid of when walking along the streets in the evening. From personal experience: I walked with photographic equipment, and not once did anyone try to pester me.

Also in China there is an unspoken rule that animals, children and laovayam(for foreigners) anything is possible.

(Photo © Today is a good day / flickr.com / License CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

How much does an independent trip to China from Russia cost?

Let's calculate how much a trip to China costs for two for 10 days when departing from Moscow:

Single entry visa - $52.
Flights from Moscow to Beijing and back - from $586. Find a ticket >>
Hotel in the center of Beijing in low season - $130. Find a hotel >>
Meals in eateries for locals - $120.
Insurance - $23.
Transport and attractions - approximately $200.

So, how much does it cost to travel to China on your own? The minimum cost of the trip, if you are ready to save, is approximately 1111$ for two for 10 days.

If you are used to living comfortably, then the trip will cost approximately 1711$ for two (accommodation in a 3* hotel - $250 and meals in cafes and restaurants - $600). We spent $1,500 a month for two of us.

Take advantage of our useful tips on an independent trip to China in 2020:

Before you travel, watch how the Chinese count on their fingers. The match with our score is only up to 4, then everything is different.
Be sure to download a translator to your phone.
Take the necessary medications, as you are unlikely to find anything familiar in Chinese pharmacies. You are more likely to encounter dried toad than activated charcoal.
Download the Baidu program and maps of the cities where you plan to live on your phone. This program will help you choose the route, time and type of transport, determine the best option ways. You won't get lost with her. I highly recommend it!

Hope, general idea You have made up your mind about prices and conditions. And the problem of language, as you see, is not so terrible. Travel, because there are so many interesting things in the world!

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I am often asked how to communicate with the Chinese (shopping, ordering food in a restaurant, getting directions, etc.) without knowing Chinese language. Not everyone speaks English, and those who speak often have a terrible accent. How to be? I addressed this question to my mother, who has been to . I give the floor to her.

The Chinese language is so complex that few people will study it if they have a short-term trip. Moreover, you can do without knowledge of Chinese literacy. When I come to Shanghai and some other Chinese cities, I lead an active lifestyle, although I do not speak or read Chinese. I walk along the streets and parks, visit temples and museums, buy food and things in stores and from street vendors. You have to bargain (it’s impossible without this), greatly reducing the price. It is worth mentioning public transport, which can be used by any foreigner who does not understand a single word of Chinese.

I want to say right away that I have never been to the Chinese outback. But more or less major cities and at Chinese resorts I sometimes forget that I am in a foreign language environment. How can I do this? Very simple. You just need to have an idea about, take into account their traditions, know a few spoken phrases and distinguish at least a dozen. I almost forgot, you must have a bilingual map of the city in your bag (in Chinese and English), and in your pocket a compass (this makes it easier to navigate) and a notepad with a pen ( or a navigator in a mobile phone, but I had situations when it did not work; That's why printed map I always carry cities with me - M.A). For those who for some reason have not mastered chopsticks, it is worth having a knife and fork (conveniently plastic) with you.

Modern Chinese are always ready to help a foreigner. They will try to find a communication option with you. The younger the Chinese, the easier it is to contact him. It is more difficult with older people or with those who have recently arrived from the village.

Mastering Chinese literacy

If you want to win over any Chinese (starting from passport control at the airport), then smile and politely say ni hao你好, which means “Hello.” In taxis, shops, markets and other places, repeat this magic phrase like a spell. Contact is immediately established between you and the Chinese. It’s also good to remember the words “thank you” sese谢谢 and "goodbye" Tsai Jian 再见.

Another phrase will save your life. She sounds questioning: La de ma?辣的吗, which means “Is it spicy?” A Chinese cook or waiter will understand your fear and put less pepper in your food. Or offer another dish.

If you urgently need to show that you do not want something, or you need to suspend some action, then say “No!” or Russian “No!” These words, plus your intonation and the corresponding gesture will become a signal to any Chinese that it is necessary, at a minimum, to clarify the situation.

There are several hieroglyphs that it is advisable to memorize to such an extent that you can recognize them on products, signs and menus. This is: "beef" (牛肉 nuzhou), "pork" (猪肉 zhuzhou), "chicken" (鸡 ji), "horse" (马 ma), "fish" (鱼 yu), "milk" (牛奶 Nyunay), "vegetables" (青菜 qingcai), "salt" (盐 yang, pronounced like day), "red" (红 hun; for black tea, which is called red in China), “green” (绿 Lü), "tea" (茶 cha), "water" (水 Shui). It is useful to know the characters for “entrance” (入口 Zhukou), "exit" (出口 chukou) and "stop" (站 zhan).

To fill out various questionnaires and forms (starting from the plane), you need to remember how to write “Beijing” in English - “Beijing” (or the city where you are flying). The name is pronounced like Beijing, i.e. " northern capital" The Chinese spelling for Beijing is 北京.

In public transport

As soon as any problems arise, I turn to any passerby. If his knowledge of English does not allow us to find a common language, then I take out the metro map and show him the station I want to go to. They either point me in the right direction or accompany me to the place where it will be easier for me to get there. In addition, there are always metro employees at the station who will help you find your way.

It happens that older people shrug their shoulders and move away. They would be happy to help, but they are afraid of doing something wrong. The upbringing of past years also has an effect: distrust of strangers. Modern youth are completely different. As soon as I stop studying the map, someone will immediately come up and ask in English if I need help?

For convenience, it is better to immediately buy a card (metro + bus) and always have a reserve on it. If you don’t want to understand the operation of modern machines through which your account is topped up, then you can go up to the metro workers and show them with your hand the machine, card and banknote. They will come up and put your card and money in the right slot in front of you and press some buttons. If the workers are busy, then you can contact any Chinese.

I rarely use buses, although they are modern and very comfortable. I'm more used to the metro. A single card (for metro and buses) saves me from searching for a place to buy tickets. I address the passengers with questions (which bus, where is the stop, when to get off?). There will always be someone who knows English. You can also show the desired location on the map.

It is advisable to have with you a piece of paper with the address of the apartment or hotel, which is written in hieroglyphs. You can show it, as well as a specific place on the map or the seller’s business card, to the taxi driver.

There are also pedicabs. They are usually taken to travel short distances. Price is negotiable, from 5 to 10 yuan. Ten fingers on your hands will help you determine the price.

In shops and markets

There are many shops in China. Very different. There are huge international chain supermarkets: Carrefour ( Carrefour, 家乐福 Jialef), Walmart ( Walmart 沃尔玛 voerma), "Auchan" ( Auchan, 欧尚 ocean) and small (in “step” and “half-step” accessibility). Prices for products in small stores are often lower than in chain stores. The price is indicated not per kilogram, but per 500 grams (斤 jing). There is no haggling in grocery stores with a cash register. There are no problems with not knowing the language if you limit yourself to buying familiar products. The pictures on the bags help you identify what is in the opaque packages. The accompanying inscription on the English language. It will be useful to become familiar with some hieroglyphs (“beef”, “milk”, etc.).

Spas English is yogurt

Do not reject the seller’s help, even if it seems unnecessary to you. A couple of years ago we chose a comfortable and light backpack. Such that your back can breathe, your shoulders don’t get tired, there’s a strong zipper, a lot of pockets and a place for a laptop. The seller stood nearby for a while, watching us. Then she went to another rack and brought exactly the backpack that met our needs.

Several times, sellers literally “took away” my bottle of olive oil, a package of eggs and other goods, bringing instead fresher, tastier or cheaper analogues. In the same way, we were able to try the wonderful Chinese dry red wine that the seller offered us instead of the one we had chosen.

Another thing is the market. Bargain for your health. To the question “How much?” (“How much?”) the seller will most likely answer in Chinese first. Then draw a question mark in the air and shrug. The seller will immediately have a calculator or phone in his hands, on which a greatly inflated amount will be indicated. It must be lowered by pressing the calculator buttons and using gestures and facial expressions. Name your absurdly low cost. This will be the start of the bargaining.

Show with all your appearance that you don’t like the product, that it has flaws. Speak in any language that you are taking it not for yourself, but for a friend. You don’t need this thing, it’s small (large), the color doesn’t match, etc. The more details you provide, the more convincing your arguments are. Moreover, each of you speaks his own language. You can even pretend to be disappointed and leave. With some instinct, the seller will understand you, appreciate you and agree to a compromise price. Of course, first he will run his hand over his throat, showing how hard it is for him to give away the goods for such a pittance.

The Chinese bargain willingly and with pleasure. If it is possible to reach a common language (English or Russian), then such an argument will do. Listen to all the seller's arguments. He will tell you for a long time at what price he buys goods at the factory. Agree with him. Tell him that you don't want to interfere with his business and deprive him of profits. And this product is too expensive for a gift to friends (neighbors). You change your mind and buy something cheaper elsewhere. To be more convincing, write down the cost in yuan, multiplied by 5 or 6 (at the current yuan to ruble exchange rate). Be horrified by the result, saying that in Moscow you can buy the same thing much cheaper. Not a single Chinese seller will let go of a buyer who has come to him. He will take out a calculator (a piece of paper and a pen) and start bargaining. As a last resort (hopeless) case, ask for a discount. They usually don't refuse. But this option is possible if the seller and you speak at least a little of the same language.

Bargaining (in full) will not work if the seller is a person (often an elderly relative) who was asked to look at the goods. He will call the owner of the product a hundred times and consult with him about discounts. He may immediately show that bargaining is not appropriate, after which he will lose interest in you and go about his own business. In this case, even excellent knowledge of the Chinese language will not save you.

Beijing Yabao-lu street is considered “Russian”: many sellers here speak Russian

Help from someone who speaks Chinese

Many times I found myself in a situation where I urgently needed to resolve some economic issues with the Chinese who did not speak other languages. I immediately took out my phone, dialed the number of my Chinese friends and gave them the phone. After about five minutes, the interlocutors explained to each other the essence of the issue (with all the details), after which they reported to me what needed to be done. This method of communication allows you to contact repair shops, order drinking water and so on.

China has a lot of different foods. For every taste. it's very easy to navigate because most of the menu (often thick books) is accompanied by photographs of the dishes. Many restaurants have special menus for foreigners. Speaking of sticks. I like to eat using a fork and knife. I don’t want to give up this habit and switch to sticks. In most restaurants you can ask for a knife and fork (often with gestures). Sometimes I have to use a plastic kit that is always in my bag. The Chinese don't care what you eat.

You can’t do without the help of the Chinese when filling out such a menu.

In small “dumpling shops”, where incredibly tasty 饺子 (“dumplings”) with various fillings are prepared, the menu is usually in Chinese. In this case, a “cheat sheet” will help, which you will show to the waiter. It should be written in advance by a Chinese friend or a person who speaks Chinese, indicating what filling you like.

It is clear that there are dumplings inside

I love Chinese baozi 包子 (stuffed steamed flour products). I buy them, showing them a notebook with a list of toppings I like. They are written in characters (for Chinese) and in English (for me). In order not to take a lot of time when calculating the total cost, I hand over a obviously large bill and take the change. There was never any deception.

Some restaurants will tell you everything in English

Don't be afraid to seem funny

One day I needed to buy a cream to protect against the scorching sun. First I went to the nearest supermarket. In the cosmetics department, young saleswomen spoke only Chinese. I had to get out a notepad and pen. Draw a man and a sun. Write + 30°C and show how I will apply the cream to my face and body. She said the qualifying word “Hainan,” a resort in southern China. The saleswoman understood everything and brought two tubes. She gave one and touched her lips and eyelids with clearly prohibitive gestures. The other tube had no contraindications. I nodded my head and made it clear that I was taking both tubes. After that, the saleswoman took them to the cash register, wrote the price on a piece of paper, and only after my consent did she sell the goods. She put it in a transparent bag along with the receipt and gestured to the floor below (there were cash registers), making it clear that she would need to show this bag. During the purchase, a small pantomime was performed. None of the strangers paid any attention to her.

There are words in the Chinese and Russian languages that are understandable to both us and the Chinese. For example, “tofu” 豆腐, “ginseng” 人参, “mango” 芒果. I bought tablets with ginkgo extract that are very beneficial for the body at the pharmacy without a translator. They understood me perfectly. When purchasing tubes of the famous Chinese ointment “999,” a panacea for many ills, all I had to do was write three nines on a piece of paper, agree to the price and pay for the purchase at the cash register, to which I was shown.

Our friends in Beijing had difficulties related to the lack of liquid for storing contact lenses. They were never solved because an independent attempt was made to find a Chinese character rather than allow the Chinese to help solve the problem. It was necessary to show at the pharmacy or in a store that sells glasses an empty lens container that needs to be filled. It was possible to clarify the wish with a drawing. Then the Chinese would offer a choice of the best products from famous companies. China is a country of bespectacled people and people who use contacts. Everything related to optics is well developed there. There is no shortage of care products.

These are just a few of the techniques that help you feel comfortable in China without knowing the language. China is a convenient country to live in, where you can always find communication options. In some cities there are blocks and streets with signs in Russian, sellers who have studied Russian. However, it is easy to navigate and solve your problems, even if you find yourself in a Chinese environment without knowing the language.

M.A.: If you are going to China, it is useful to write down several useful hieroglyphs on a piece of paper and in your phone that will allow you to navigate. In addition, there are various mobile applications - translators. I use dictionaries "Lingvo"(Russian-Chinese and Chinese-Russian) and "Pleco"(English-Chinese), as well as Google translator.

Even if you don't know Chinese, set the Chinese language on your phone in two ways: using the Pinyin phonetic alphabet (syllables written in Roman characters) and by writing the hieroglyph on the touchpad. In case of any problems, you can ask the Chinese to write an unfamiliar word or phrase on the phone and then translate it into Russian.

Perhaps, after reading this article, you will still decide to learn Chinese. Then read the post.