Independent travel through Normandy. Trip to Normandy. Route Burgundy - Rhône-Alpes - Center - Paris
The scene is early May 2017, we are in Paris and we have a week. The northern regions of France have long been attractive, and therefore it was decided to spend this week just there.
Our route looked like this (map):
Day 1: Giverny - Rouen
Jumping into a rented car, we leave the unloved Paris.
On the way to the city of Rouen - the gateway to Normandy, there is at least one place worth visiting - the house-museum of Claude Monet. If you want to see with your own eyes the water lilies that inspired the master’s numerous paintings and made him famous, be sure to stop by Giverny (about 80 km from Paris).
The city of Rouen is notorious for the fact that it was here that poor Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. If we abstract from this sad event, the city is very beautiful and definitely worth a visit.
Hotel: I can recommend the Mercure Rouen Center Cathedrale (it couldn’t be more central, there is underground parking, everything is new).
Food: Don't miss the market at main square, and especially the fish shop, where the freshest seafood is prepared right in front of you.
Day 2: Etretat - Fecamp
100 km from Rouen is the town of Etretat - a place of attraction for all tourists in Normandy.
It is in this place, on both sides of the town, that there are limestone cliffs that Monet loved to paint! The view from the rocks is truly mesmerizing. The climb up the mountain is quite difficult, but both older people and small children can climb it.
If you are lucky enough to find a decent hotel in Etretat, you can spend the night right there to admire the white cliffs in the evening light. For my dates in local hotels there were no places, so we “had to” spend the night in the town of Fecamp, which is 20 km from Etretat.
Fecamp is a small port town, famous for the fact that it was here that the Benedictine monks invented the famous Benedictine liqueur. They say that the recipe was lost, but in the last century some enterprising person “found” it and made a huge fortune from the production of the drink. Benedictine on ice is wonderful! The town has an entire palace-museum dedicated to this liqueur.
Note: The Normandy coast is notorious for the fighting that took place here during the Second World War. On the way there are many memorial plaques, fortifications, and forts. There is also a huge cemetery and memorial. Everyone decides for himself whether to visit places of military glory during a trip to Normandy or whether to limit himself only to historical and natural cities and attractions.
Rennes - quite Big city, which didn’t particularly impress me. A good stop-over for an overnight stay, nothing more.
Day 7: Tours - Vouvray - Amboise
When planning a route through Normandy and Brittany, I had a couple of “extra” days left, which I decided to spend on the Loire Valley!
The Loire Valley is a famous wine-growing region that stretches almost from the ocean to the middle of France. The vineyards are located on both sides of the river (the river itself, by the way, is not at all expressive or attractive).
Whistling 250 km from Rennes, we made a short stop and stretched our legs in Tours, and from Tours we drove along the Loire River towards the wineries.
I can recommend (1) a tour and tasting at the Marc Bredif winery in the Vouvray region - the guide speaks good English, the tasting is not expensive, as is the wine itself (there is even sparkling wine), (2) the biodynamic winery Domain Vigneau-Chevreau (no excursions, tasting and sales only), as well as (3) the family winery Caves du Pere Auguste - headed by the grandson of the founder, almost only family members work there!
Hotel: In the Loire Valley, I really wanted to stay in an old chateau, preferably with good restaurant. After a long search, the choice fell on Chateau de Pray, founded in 1244! Very beautiful interiors, small but well-kept area.
Food: The chateau has a restaurant of the same name with one Michelin star; reservations are required. In short, the food is delicious, but the service is just terribly slow and long! Our two courses took 3.5 hours!! It is unacceptable, in my opinion, to torture guests like that!
Day 8: Chenonceau - Sancerre
The Loire Valley is famous not only for its wines, but also for its castles, of which there are several dozen. One of the most famous is the Chenonceau castle, built in the 16th century and owned by different years Catherine de Medici, wives and mistresses of kings, etc. The interior of the castle is very well preserved, including furniture, carpets, fireplaces, etc. A notable feature of the castle is the gallery bridge built across the Cher River! During the Second World War, the opposite bank was occupied by the Nazis, and they say that almost all the time guns were aimed at the castle, ready to destroy it at any moment, but by some lucky chance this did not happen, and the castle has survived to this day in its original condition sight!
The Sancerre appellation is a very famous wine region in France and the most interchangeable representative of the wines of the Loire Valley region (along with Pouilly-Fumé). The main grape variety here is Sauvignon Blanc.
Map
The town of Sancerre itself is located on a hill, and there are vineyards around - the view is stunning! After buying wine and cheese, we had a picnic right on the fortress wall =)
We didn't have time to book a tour of the winery, so we just went for a tasting at almost the first one we came across - Eric Louis.
After admiring Sancerre and crying over the ridiculous prices of local wines, we loaded back into the car and after some 210 km we were already in Paris.
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Day 6 - ,
Day 7 -
Day 8 - Mont Saint Michel
Day 9 -
We flew to Paris and rented a car at the airport. We went north and stopped in the small town of Les Andelys, where we saw the Chateau Gaillard castle.
In the morning we went to Deauville and Trouville, walked for 4 hours.
After lunch we returned to Honfleur, had lunch and rested. Towards evening we went to Etretat, crossing the Normandy Bridge along the way. Immediately behind it there is a payment point, where you can stop and climb up the observation deck.
In Etretat we walked until sunset
Overnight in Hautefleur.
Day 3 - ,
In the morning we set off towards Saint-Malo, with several stops planned along the way. First we walked on Omaha Beach and visited the American Cemetery.
And then we stopped at one little-known place - a cape overlooking Mont Saint Michel.
We spent two nights in Saint-Malo.
In the morning we went to Dinan
On the way back we stopped at a city park
During the day we walked around the city, relaxed on the beach and took time-lapses of the tide.
Towards evening we went to Mont Saint Michel, where we walked around outside the abbey.
Day 5 - ,
In the morning we watched the sunrise from the pier in Saint Malo.
We drove in the direction of Saint Guirec, stopping along the way at Fort-la-Latte and Cape Freel.
We arrived at Saint Guirec beach, where we had booked a hotel for one night. We walked around the hotel for a bit.
Day 6 - ,
It was foggy in the morning. We saw the main attraction of the region - the red boulders on Plumanak beach.
Next we drove towards Nantes. Nantes is in the Loire Land region, but we wanted to visit one of major cities in northern France and chose him. As it turned out, they were right. On the way we also stopped in Vannes.
We settled in Nantes and walked around the city.
We spent two nights in Nantes.
Day 7 -
In the morning we watched the sunrise on the embankment near the hotel.
And then we walked around the city all day.
Day 8- , Mont Saint Michel
In the morning we saw a mechanical elephant and rode the carousel.
In Mont Saint Michel we had a hotel booked on the grounds of the abbey. So we checked in and went for a walk around the walls until the tide came in.
And in the evening we looked at our main goal in northern France - the high tide at Mont Saint Michel.
When it was still dark we went to the observation deck on the dam.
Day 9 -
Beach holidays in France are usually primarily associated with the south and Mediterranean Sea. Meanwhile, the French, who know their country well, prefer the beaches of Normandy. You just need to choose the right time and place.
Deauville – rich mansions, gorgeous beaches, clear ocean...
The northwestern regions of the Fifth Republic, Normandy and Brittany, which, due to their location, are difficult for Russian people to relate to beach holiday- firstly, the “north”, and secondly, not formally the open sea or ocean, but the shores of the harsh English Channel, attract mainly excursionists on short organized trips from Paris. However, a trip to Normandy - a picturesque green region with a rich cultural and historical heritage, fantastic landscapes and no less glorious gastronomic specialties - is more interesting than the Mediterranean resorts. It is best to go here at the peak of summer, in July-August, when it is hot almost everywhere in France, and even the water in the English Channel warms up to an acceptable temperature for swimming. The beginning of September is also a good time: it’s still quite warm, and Deauville also hosts the famous film festival of American cinema, which, in terms of the scale and level of visiting stars, can be called, if not a “younger brother,” then certainly a “cousin” of the famous Cannes.
In general, traveling through the cities of Normandy can be called a real pleasure for a film buff: huge number cult French films were filmed here, and top actors such as Jean Gabin, Alain Delon, Lino Ventura, Louis de Funes, Anouk Aimé, Robert Hossein, Michel Morgan, and dozens of others often came here to relax and gain inspiration.
The most famous historical resorts of Normandy - Deauville-sur-Mer and Trouville-sur-Mer, the so-called “Parisian Riviera”, or even the “XXI arrondissement of Paris” - are connected to the capital by highway.
It is also easy to get here comfortably from Paris by direct train in just two hours. And for traveling around Normandy, it is best to rent a car to see natural attractions far from large cities and better experience the incredible rural beauty of Normandy.
Trouville and Deauville, which appeared on the map of routes for the aristocracy a little later, at the beginning of the 19th century, were, like most of the now famous French resorts, small fishing villages, notable only for their picturesqueness. With the advent of fashion for sea swimming and sunbathing, attracted here by the wide beautiful beaches, wealthy vacationers began to come more and more often, followed by the appearance of infrastructure for the rich and famous. Between 1840 and 1860 there was a rapid construction of luxury hotels, private villas, entertainment venues and promenades in Trouville. And by 1870, this resort flourished and became popular among representatives of the highest circles of the European aristocracy.
Deauville-sur-Mer, Trouville's twin brother, is separated from it only by the bed of the Tuk River. “If you go to the right, you will end up in Trouville, if you go to the left, you will end up in Deauville” - a landmark if you are facing the ocean in the port area. The territory of the resorts is quite compact, and while relaxing in one of them, it is not difficult to move to the neighboring one.
In the 1860s, when Trouville had nowhere to expand, a project for the Deauville resort appeared, the authors of which were Dr. Oliffe, the half-brother of Emperor Napoleon III, the Duke of Morny, and the banker Armand Donon. The emphasis was placed on the prestige of the new holiday destination. On the former swampy area, a town surprisingly quickly grew up with huge hotels, a casino, a hippodrome and a wood-paved promenade with carved bathing cabins, which to this day remain one of the recognizable symbols of Deauville. The "golden age" of resorts occurred in late XIX- the beginning of the 20th century, when the magnificent imperial style of architecture was complemented by luxurious buildings in the Belle Epoque style. Despite the fact that many unique villas from the architectural ensemble of Deauville and Trouville were destroyed (after the Second World War or through the efforts of some zealous mayors of the towns), today you can still stay in most of the old historical hotels built at the turn of the last century. The famous five-star Hotel Normandy, which has often become the setting for films such as “Baron de L'Ecluse” with Jean Gabin, is still impeccable. The Royal Hotel in Deauville is still luxurious, the Grand Casino in Trouville still opens its doors to players...
Walking along the historic boardwalk along the ocean in Deauville is reminiscent of one of the most romantic paintings of our time - “A Man and a Woman” by Claude Lelouch. If you want to drink a cup of coffee or have lunch overlooking the ocean, you should choose Bar du Soleil, Bar de la mer or Le Ciro`s restaurant - these are establishments that date back to the beginning of the 20th century and have seen many famous guests. The resorts traditionally demand a casino, a hippodrome, and horseback riding along the shore. In the immediate vicinity of Deauville and Trouville you can find the impeccable golf courses for which Normandy is famous. Thalasso therapy center and many spas, heated swimming pools sea water, yacht club, tennis courts, shopping centers are located in the area between the hotels and the boardwalk.
Quai Honfleur
Visit the picturesque town of Honfleur, as if straight out of an impressionist painting, 15 km from Trouville. The heart of Honfleur and the main point of attraction for tourists is its harbor, framed by charming old mansions in the Norman style.
Follow the 40km Cider Route, which starts approximately 20km east of Caen and passes through authentic small farm villages. One of the main specialties of Normandy is produced here - apple cider and its stronger derivative - Calvados brandy, you can taste and buy all of this. In addition, the region is the birthplace of the world-famous Camembert cheese, and nowhere else except Normandy will you find such a selection of varieties and tastes of this cheese.
Walk along the edge of the almost vertical rock cliffs around the village of Etretat (20 km southeast of Fécamp) and see the powerful cliff-arches that have become one of the most recognizable symbols of Normandy in the world. Admire the deserted beaches at the foot of the cliffs - wild and amazing with the power of the waves.
Visit one of the wonders of France - the island of Mont Saint-Michel with the abbey located on it, and in fact - perfectly preserved medieval city, the first mention of which dates back to 709. Mont Saint-Michel is one of the country's most popular attractions and is listed world heritage UNESCO, so not seeing it while in Normandy would be at least a shame.
See memorable places World War II. North coast The region at the end of the Second World War became the place where, on June 6, 1944, the Allied landing operation under the code name “Overlord” unfolded. The beaches of Omaha, Utah, Sword, Juneau and Gold became the sites of the bloodiest battles between the British and American airborne divisions and Nazi troops. One of the most emotionally powerful sights of these places is the American military cemetery with its seemingly endless rows of modest white crosses.
Read about the most interesting exhibitions, concerts, auctions and other significant events from the world of art.
Text: Elena Kurylenko
Public transport Normandy is developed quite well, so it is also convenient for tourist travel. Almost every city has its own bus network, and the cities of Caen, Le Havre and Rouen also have a tram line.
Buses in Normandy
The city of Caen has 20 city bus lines that allow you to quickly and conveniently get to anywhere in the city. The waiting time for the bus depends on the route, but on average it is approximately 15-30 minutes. Bus line operating times vary, so it's best to check.
The NOCTIBUS bus also runs around the city at night. It runs every half hour on Thursday from 00:30 to 05:00 and every hour on Friday from 1 am to 05:00. On Saturday the last departure of the night bus is 06:00.
Trams in Normandy
Caen's tram lines are divided into two branches A and B; they cover almost all major objects. Between Copernicus and Poincaré stations, lines A and B have the same route. Runs every 8 minutes on lines A and B, and every 4 minutes on the general line between Poincare and Copernicus stations. The tram operates from 05:30 to 00:30 from Monday to Saturday and from 08:30 to 00:30 on Sundays. Routes can be viewed.
One of the most popular types public transport in Rouen is the tram. Currently in Rouen, trains operate on two route lines: Ligne Technopôle and Ligne Georges Braque. The first train starts at 04:30 am, and the last one at 23:00. Intervals between trains on weekdays are about 4 minutes, reaching 10 minutes on weekends.
Tickets for the “metro” are the same as for other public transport in the city. A single trip ticket allows you to travel for one hour on all types of public transport, including 6 transfers.
Tickets
A single ticket costs €1.35 in Caen, €1.50 in Rouen, and costs around €1.20 in other cities, valid for one hour from the first pass. A ticket for an unlimited number of trips, valid for 24 hours from the moment of the first passage, will cost 3.75 € in the city of Caen, 4.40 € in Rouen, other cities will cost approximately 3.40 €. Tickets can be purchased at tram and bus stops.
-=Advertising a unique holiday in France=-So, in October, Max Wernick and I went fishing in Normandy. A journey of discovery. Firstly, this was my first time visiting Normandy. Secondly, for the first time we drank brandy all the way. Brandy is like cognac, only from a neighboring village. Well, thirdly, for the first time in my life I went somewhere to fish.
01. Before fishing, we walked around Paris a little. We didn’t have much time, so we quickly took in the beauty. Glass pyramid of the Louvre. 
02. Sculptures in the Tuileries Garden behind the Cop fence 
03. From the park you can go to the Seine embankment. It is now pedestrian in many places. There used to be a road here. 
04. Max Wernick decided to go to a flea market and buy some goods for the store. But as it turned out, prices in Paris are higher than in Moscow... 
05. Parisian ragpicker 
Now let's get in the car and head north! Where there are fish and a house on the lake.
06. Along the way we pass simple French villages. 
07. Beautiful 
08. French cows 
09. Horses 
10. Rams 
11. In a French village, time stopped. Most houses have not changed for centuries. Only satellite dishes and cars indicate that this is the 21st century. 
12. Everything is very neat and clean. 
13. We arrived in Fécamp, a town in Upper Normandy. It is built around a small bay that serves as a trading and fishing port. This is what the entrance to this bay looks like. It is about 50 meters wide. 
14. That part of the city that is located south of the bay is flat, and Northern part The city was built on a rocky hill. 
15. Fekan is a fishing town. It became famous back in the 10th century due to the fact that delicious salted and smoked herring was prepared here. And in the 16th century, cod fishing began here. Now fishing has been limited - it is allowed only in coastal waters. 
16. But there is also the Vermont River, and if you go upstream, you will reach a series of ponds in which you can also fish. That's where we went. 
17. We rented this house. It stands right on the water and you can fish from the bedroom) Or from the terrace. Great place. 
18. The Normans themselves do not hesitate to call their region a fishing paradise. Here you can be offered sea, freshwater and foot fishing (this is when people walk along the shore and collect crabs and shellfish). For freshwater fishing, which we stopped at, there are a lot of rivers, canals, ponds and swamps in Normandy. 
19. You can catch carp, pike or trout in the ponds. Vernik said that he would eat live fish... But in the end he was dissuaded. 
20. We caught trout for dinner. 
21. While dinner is being prepared, it’s a good idea to have a glass or two. 
22. The rest of the evening was spent with dinner, intimate conversations and brandy. And the next morning it was like this. 
23. Neighbor's house 
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25.
26.
27. We met the Norman dawn, took a last look at Fécamp and set off further! 
28. The next stop is another town on the English Channel coast, called Etretat. 
29. It is mainly known for its rocks that form beautiful natural arches. Thanks to them, Etretat became one of the main tourist centers Normandy. Only one and a half thousand people live in the city, but in the summer people come here a large number of travelers. If people come to Fécamp to fish, then they go to Etretat to enjoy the Norman nature. 
30. City embankment. If you look north, you will see an arch called the Upper Gate. 
31. At one time, many famous artists lived in Etretat, for example, Claude Monet. He has several paintings in which he captured the views from here. Here is one of them with the same view. 
32. And if you turn south, then in front of you will be the “Lower Gate”. Next to it is a pointed rock called “Needle”. French writer Maurice Leblanc wrote a book about her called “The Hollow Needle.” According to the plot, royal treasures were hidden in it. 
33. Also a painting by Claude Monet with “The Lower Gate”. 
34. In some places the cliffs reach a height of 100 meters. A school of fish is visible in the water! 
35.
36. Antifer Lighthouse. It was built in 1894, but was completely destroyed during World War II. Previously, it was located closer to the cliff, but during restoration they decided to move it further away from the crumbling edge of the cliff. 
37. Old bunker 
38. What struck me most was that in 70 years since the end of the war, no one had vandalized the bunker and not even left a single inscription on the walls! The concrete is crumbling, the reinforcement is rusty, but the walls are clean! How is this possible? Simply amazing. In our country, such objects are usually covered with numerous inscriptions and marks, who, where and when. 
39. As a result, I can say that there are two reasons to go to Normandy: the first is the beautiful sea coast with cliffs, and the second is amazing conditions for all kinds of fishing. This part of France is perfect for men's recreation in the company of friends and good French brandy. In general, come and try it yourself. Happy fishing! 