] Authors: Jiri Hanzelka, Miroslav Zikmund. Translation from Czech by S.I. Pink. Edited by I.I. Potekhin.
(Moscow: Foreign Literature Publishing House, 1956)
Scan, OCR, processing, Djv-600,1200 format: krestik, 2019

• TABLE OF CONTENTS:
  Chapter XIX. With a machine gun to Addis Ababa (5).
  Border formalities under tropical rain. A pistol instead of a signal horn with Let's look into the Ethiopian's home. At the Pass of Death. With Tatra to an altitude of 3200 meters. Addis Ababa.
  Chapter XX. One hour in the company of Emperor Haile Selassie? (25).
  “Tell him that I have nothing against him personally.” King of kings and English language. “I sent a plane for your specialists.” Lion the Conqueror from the tribe of Judah. 72 high school football teams. Ethiopia outside and inside.
  Chapter XXI. In the Ethiopian trap (41).
  Game of motorists. Gallows in the market square. How to get out of Ethiopia? With Swedish pilots over Ethiopia.
  Chapter XXII. Is there oil in the Ogaden? (50).
  Railway track in the air. “There’s a small ford here and there.” We are building a road for ourselves. Tangier in East Africa. Third day without water. Refrigerators in the desert.
  Chapter XXIII. We are looking for the equator (67).
  Termite skyscrapers. Curious ostriches. Magic cat. Wife for 300 shillings. Direction - southern hemisphere. Where is the equator? Black cotton soil. Malaria.
  Chapter XXIV. Captured on the roads of Kenya (83).
  Another accident victim. 59 degrees in the shade. Bath in the middle of the road. Drinking water from elephant tracks. "Listen to the review latest news" Synthesis of Europe and India. With blacks at the all-night vigil. A city without postmen.
  Chapter XXV. Czechoslovakian flag over Kilimanjaro (101).
  Lions in front of the Tatra. “Are you smuggling flies?” Fight for 6000 meters. Sparkling Mountain. Through coffee plantations and virgin forests. Hail over Peters Shelter. Before the night hike. The sun rises over Mawenzi. Glaciers near the equator. Leopard skeleton in the crater. Wreaths of victory.
  Chapter XXVI. West of Mombasa (127).
  The Germans must leave Tanganyika. Under the coconut trees. Wholesale trade of elephants and rhinoceroses. Pampered warriors? British colonial "democracy". The birth of a coffee bean.
  Chapter XXVII. To the sources of the Nile (148).
  Steam locomotives on 28 wheels. Tanganyika - right, Uganda - straight. Once again across the equator. Was Herodotus right? 700 billion hectoliters of water. Crocodile for 120 CZK. 200 students for three million square kilometers.
  Chapter XXVIII. Through western Uganda to the Congo Pygmies (169).
  Miracle road near Rwenzori. A black ruler under the authority of his royal majesty. Night concert of hippos. "Never argue with them." The smallest people in the world. Among the dwarfs is the bambutti. A day with the pygmies. Pygmies hunting elephants.
  Chapter XXIX. 200 elephants in two hours (194).
  Two systems. Last night at the equator. First meeting with elephants. Race with the attacking hippopotamus. Elephants grazing. Gas! Gas! Hypnotized buffalo. Petrified antelopes. Chevrolet on an elephant's tusks.
  Chapter XXX. Fire rain on Kivu (214).
  Country of volcanoes. 60 million cubic meters of lava per month. Throne of Hephaestus. The primeval forest is on fire. A car in a flaming trap. Dante's hell. Along the elephant paths to the volcano. Return to the first days of the Earth. 200 meters from the volcano. Seething lava cauldron. “We’re leaving for New York now!”
  Chapter XXXI. Tom-toms sound (237).
  Kneeling blacks. "Enchanted Castle" on the lake. Rubber devils in Nyondo. People in the vicinity of the "enchanted castle". Academic half an hour. A kilo of ivory costs 340 CZK. Jablonec gifts. “Quinine, sir!”
  Chapter XXXII. "Scandal in Katanga" (259).
  Departure on Tuesday at 8.00 - arrival on Thursday at 21.30. “600 more or 600 less...” Dinner under a mosquito net, 1000 kilometers alone on the road. Mass production of labor. Eight percent copper. A workshop without people. 250 tons of copper per day. The tallest factory chimney in Africa.
  Chapter XXXIII. Great Northern Road (277).
  Copper belt. 15 railroad trains of copper in a bath. Will-o'-the-wisps underground. 12 equals 20. Large North road. Retreat before the ants.
  Chapter XXXIV. Night rainbow over the Zambezi (291).
  Decisive millimeters. On the border of eternal rain. David Livingston. Moon Rainbow. Over the canyons of the Zambezi River. Double stripes. Rhodesian drivers. By Cecil John Rhodes. Socrates from Zimbabwe. Across the Limpopo River. The land issue again.

Times don't choose

Legendary Czech traveler Miroslav ZIKMUND: “When I was once again interrogated by state security representatives, I told them: “I survived the hunt for skulls - I will survive your persecution.”

40 years ago, after the Prague Spring, travelers and writers Miroslav Zikmund and Jiri Hanzelka were “buried alive” by the new government of the Czechoslovak Socialist Republic.

It was like a fairy tale: two young Czechs decide to see the world and, defying all dangers, cross entire continents behind the wheel of a Tatra car! And when? Immediately after the terrible war, when Europe was still in ruins. Having crossed Africa from north to south and America from south to north in 1947-1950, Jiri Hanzelka and Miroslav Zikmund returned home to Czechoslovakia in a romantic aura of glory. Books about their adventures on the roads of the continents sold out instantly - 120 thousand on the first day of sale. They were also published in the USSR - for several generations of Soviet people, securely closed by the Iron Curtain, the bestsellers of Zikmund and Hanzelka became a window into an inaccessible world. And then came 1968, when Soviet tanks buried the hopes of the Czechs and Slovaks for free choice and development. Jiri Hanzelka and Miroslav Zikmund were active participants in the Prague Spring, for which they paid the price - they were consigned to oblivion. What could be worse for people who were at the height of their fame? Only after the fall of communism in 1989 did they again begin to appear on television screens and on radio stations. Miroslav Zikmund lives in the town of Zlín in the eastern Czech Republic. Just over four hours by train from Prague, an idyllic mountain landscape opens up. Zlín is a quiet town where they don’t understand Russian. The workers of the city museum come to the rescue: they proudly display the exhibition “Across the Five Parts of the World with Engineers Hanzelka and Zikmund,” and then explain in detail how to find Miroslav Zikmund’s house. Half an hour later, the legendary traveler meets me on the threshold of his house, where, as it turns out, there is neither a computer nor the Internet, but only books, books, books...

“I GAVE OUR 180-PAGE SECRET “SPECIAL REPORT No. 4” PERSONALLY TO LEONID ILYICH”

— How did it all begin, Mr. Miroslav?

— Jiri and I were probably not unique in our dreams of seeing the world... Every boy or girl wants to fly out of the family nest: to experience life, to see other countries.

I met Hanzelka in 1938 at the economic school in Prague, where we studied. He turned out to be the same romantic as me, and we began to prepare a trip around the world, which we were going to go on after graduation. The war interfered with our plans, but we did not give up on our dreams: we learned languages, read books, collected maps.

When peace returned to Europe, we decided to turn to the director of the Tatra automobile plant for help. They found out his name from the watchman and went straight to him. They showed us their papers with a detailed travel plan. This was data about different countries, geographic Maps- only about 500 pages of text and drawings. And they asked: “Give us a car, and we will advertise the Tatra all over the world.” “People like you,” he said, “come almost every day and say: “Give me a free car,” but it seems that you are not swindlers and have really prepared.” This is how we received transportation and support in our travels.

— Did you meet the director’s expectations regarding advertising?

— After crossing the Nubian Desert, newspapers wrote about our Tatra as a car that was best suited to the conditions of Africa. After all, it did not need water, but was air-cooled. The contract we signed in Nairobi provided for the supply of six thousand vehicles. But then the communists came to power in Czechoslovakia, who were no longer interested in contracts. Representatives from Nairobi were not even allowed to come to Prague.

— Your travels ended in the USSR, the most closed state in the world at that time. If you had not traveled through the expanses of the Land of the Soviets, perhaps your fate would have turned out differently...

— Our journey around the Union was interrupted in 1964, when the Soviet leadership asked us to present our view of the situation in the country. We were already experienced travelers, we had visited many countries and could compare. We wrote “Special Report No. 1” - about Indonesia, No. 2 - about Western Iran, No. 3 - about Japan. The fourth is about the USSR. We traveled across the USSR from Japan home to Europe, traveled from Vladivostok to Moscow. Moreover, we had complete freedom of movement, we could visit even closed areas and gave a frank analysis of the political, economic and moral situation in the country. We wanted to help change something for the better - this seemed very important to us, because the reality of life in the USSR was the complete opposite of Soviet propaganda.

We gave our report to the then General Secretary of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, Novotny, and asked him to send one copy to Moscow. We were told that the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia could not send the document by party mail, since Moscow might think that the Czechoslovak Communist Party shared the opinion of Zikmund and Hanzelka. Then Brezhnev came to Prague as a guest of the XIII Congress of the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia. I was invited to the Central Committee, where I handed over our 180-page secret “Special Report No. 4” personally to Leonid Ilyich.

We thought that our observations would give the authorities in Moscow and Prague material for thought and action, but Brezhnev did not want to delve into them. He passed the report on to his subordinates, and they assessed it as anti-Soviet - the biggest sin in those days. Indeed, it followed from the document that socialism as a political and economic system is mediocre and unpromising. But to make critical remarks about the Soviet Union at that time meant signing one’s death sentence. Brezhnev’s words reached us: they say, “Zikmund and Hanzelka need to be taught a lesson by starvation”... Since then, access to the USSR has been denied to us, although we were going to come at least once more, and then write a big book about the Soviet Union.

“ONLY EVGENY YEVTUSHENKO RESPONDED TO MY CALL TO STOP THE SOVIET INVASION IN CZECHOSLOVAKIA”

— You did not learn the first lesson that the Soviet system taught you. They also neglected the second one, since they became active participants in the Prague Spring of 1968...

— Jiri was even a candidate for the presidency of Czechoslovakia. After five days of Soviet occupation, I addressed on the radio in Russian to Brezhnev, Kosygin, academicians Keldysh, Lavrentyev, Kapitsa, my friend the poet Yevgeny Yevtushenko and said that I regard the entry of Soviet troops as the German occupation of Czechoslovakia in 1938.

I called for a stop to the invasion, which offends the honest people of both countries. The speech was recorded by Western radio stations and broadcast to the USSR. Only Yevgeny Yevtushenko responded, who composed the poem “Tanks are moving through Prague.” The others remained silent. And this is not surprising: fear permeated all life in the Soviet Union.

— Where did you meet Yevgeny Yevtushenko?

— In Irkutsk — during our trip. At that time, the poet was in disgrace; he was not even published for some time. We went with him to his performance at the Bratsk Hydroelectric Power Station. Yevtushenko made a very strong impression, and he read poetry as if a volcano was erupting.

By the way, Evgeny recently sent me his new book, but I can’t make out his dedicatory inscription... Could you help me? ( Unfortunately, I was unable to help - I was only able to decipher a few words. — Auto.).

- Pan Miroslav, did you really believe that your call to stop the invasion of Soviet troops could change something?

- We were naive. They thought that it was possible to convince the Soviet leadership to carry out what they proclaimed in words. Now I understand that communism cannot be reformed. It is not suitable for human society. It's a disease. And the introduction of Soviet troops into foreign territory caused universal hatred of the USSR.

Judging by my observations, large people often show loyalty to their own mistakes and a tendency towards complacency. The consciousness of the greatness of the nation replaces respect for each individual person. Small nations do not have this: on the one hand, they more often experience an inferiority complex and adore foreign countries, on the other, they have more prerequisites for development.

“It’s no secret that the new government, which had cleared the way, subjected its opponents to persecution. Did this affect you?

— Gusak, with the support of Soviet troops, began a policy of so-called normalization, which ended in absolute isolation for Jiri and me. From travelers we turned into dissidents and were banned from traveling abroad. The torn years—I don’t really like to talk about them. We were banned from publishing and community service, expelled from the Writers' Union, terminated the contract for a book about Ceylon.

They wanted to remove even our books from libraries and destroy them, but then they left them, only crossed them out of the catalogs. The already printed edition of the book “Part of the World Below the Himalayas” was kept in a warehouse for a long time, they were going to be sent under the knife, but then they were put on sale through the “Book Lovers Club”.

They demanded repentance from us, insisted that we publicly support the new government, and renounce what we had said earlier, but this was out of the question. In retaliation for our intractability, we were constantly watched and summoned for interrogation. Once, when I was once again interrogated by state security representatives, I told them: “I survived the hunt for skulls - I will survive your persecution.”

We couldn't find any work. They lived on the money they earned from selling their equipment, things, books... Later, Jiri got a job as a gardener, and I as a fireman. Brezhnev destroyed us for 20 years: we were not published, we were not allowed on radio and television - we were as if dead, although we could have done so much more...

“GAGARIN SAID HE WAS JEALOUS OF US BECAUSE WE CAN TRAVEL FREELY”

— Have you ever thought about emigrating, like, for example, the Czech writer Milan Kundera, who still lives in France...

— Jiri and I traveled for nine years to different countries and knew very well the fate of many emigrants. These were sad stories of people who left their homeland for various reasons. On the one hand, we did not want to repeat their fate, on the other hand, we believed that we had to stay home and work, fighting against the system as dissidents.

— The Zlin Museum displays your samizdat books created after 1968...

— Jiri and I have a lot of unpublished material left. Left out of work, we began to retype it on a typewriter, adding photographs and drawings. We got books. In 1975, two books about Ceylon (Sri Lanka) were published in this way. Only in 1990, after the “Velvet Revolution”, were they properly published in the publishing house.

For years we wrote to the table without feedback from readers, publishers, and therefore no incentive. That's why travel notes about the Soviet Union, Japan, and Indonesia never appeared. And today, 40 years later, there is no point in returning to them: both the people and the country have completely changed.

— I read that in Russia there was an exhibition of materials collected by you, among them four thousand previously banned photographs from the USSR. I called the Czech Embassy in Ukraine and asked if the exhibition would be shown in Ukraine, they told me that no...

— Exhibitions take place where they are invited. My photographs were shown in Germany, Russia, Uzbekistan - a total of 20 countries. Nobody from Ukraine has shown interest yet.

By the way, you are the first Ukrainian journalist with whom I communicate, although in my life I have given at least two thousand interviews for publications on five continents.

— In the museum, I noticed a photograph where you and your brother, back in the 30s, were traveling through Subcarpathian Rus, which is now part of Ukraine and is called Transcarpathia.

— Before World War II, this was the territory of Czechoslovakia. We then walked through the cities and mountains of Subcarpathian Rus', quenching our thirst for travel. One day we approached Polish border, I ran five steps into Poland and shouted to my brother: “I’m abroad!” I had such a strong desire to see the world with which I had lived my whole life...

— I know that you met with Yuri Gagarin. Only not in Moscow and not even in Prague, but in Ceylon...

“We met him completely by accident. This was Yuri Gagarin's first trip to a capitalist country, if Ceylon can be called that at that time. Before this, cosmonaut number one had only visited Czechoslovakia. Jiri and I were just making our Asian trip and getting to know the island.

The people who received Gagarin told him that Zikmund and Hanzelka were nearby, and Yuri came to us. We had beer in the car, we treated him, got to talking... Gagarin said that he had read all our books and was very jealous of us, since we could freely travel around the world, see different countries, communicate with the natives, but he does not have such an opportunity. In general, the first cosmonaut gave the impression of a very good, pleasant young man.

— Which traveler was your idol?

— My ideal as a child was the traveler Emil Golub, a contemporary of Henry Stanley and David Livingston. I still have his books in German and Czech. He died young. After our first trip to Africa and America, Jiri and I met his widow, who was already 89 years old at that time.

“A MAN’S JOURNEY CHANGES: HE BECOME MORE TOLERANT”

— When the roads to the world opened up for you again, where did you go?

— Until 1968, we visited all continents except Australia. Therefore, it is logical that in the 90s of the last century I visited there three times. Then there were other trips and new meetings: in 2000, in Sri Lanka, I met science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke, and a year later I met Thor Heyerdahl. We talked with him all day in Guimar at his house on the island of Tenerife.

— Now the world is becoming standard, everything is the same. For example, in the United United Arab Emirates 30 years ago there were only sands and camels, but today you will hardly find both there...

“Jiri and I saw the world in time: the old world no longer exists, it has become less interesting. I recently visited several places that I had been to before, for example, I went to Turkish city Hilt. When Hanzelka and I arrived there in 1959, there were only four tourists in the temple - Jiri and I and two of our friends. And in 1998, there were 50 huge buses parked there and thousands of tourists jostling around, pushing each other aside to take pictures.

But you can’t stop progress... Every time, returning from a trip, people perceive everything that happens at home more keenly: they have something to compare with. In addition, what he sees in foreign lands changes a person: he becomes more tolerant of other peoples, cultures, religions, begins to understand them...

— In your books, you often and warmly mention Prague, the Vltava River... Why did you leave the capital and move to provincial Zlin?

— For the first time, Jiri and I came here in 1952 to the film studio to prepare a film. We spent seven to eight months here. It was a very snowy winter and we did a lot of skiing. And I said to Jiri: “Listen, why do we live in Prague and not here?” There is nature, mountains, air, a vegetable garden... I love working in the garden with my own hands. All this is not available when you live in a city apartment. So we decided to move. I bought this house in Zlin from the director of a film studio, who went to work in Prague, and I still live in it.

— What are you doing now, Mr. Miroslav?

— When my friend Jiri died ( in 2003. — Auto.), I didn't think I'd go back to work. I no longer wanted to continue my literary work, but a journalist friend discovered my unfinished manuscript in the archive and forced me to finalize it. Therefore, now I am preparing another book for publication. In addition, our films with Hanzelka are released on DVD, and I am writing new comments for them - since in those difficult times it was not possible to talk about everything...

Kyiv - Prague - Zlin - Kyiv

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The tourism popularity of the Czech Republic is most eloquently demonstrated by the number of tourists visiting the country annually - more than seven million. Czech Republic, located in the center of Europe, has opportunities for all types of tourism, except water tourism. The most in demand are educational, health (medical), and ecological tourism; a significant part of the Czech tourism industry is built on them. Having entered the European Union, the Czech Republic remained a country with low (by European standards) prices and retained its own currency.

Visa regime, travel to the Czech Republic

A trip to the Czech Republic is impossible without a Schengen visa. It is better to check the list of documents accompanying the visa permit on the embassy’s website; it may change. The hassle of collecting numerous documents cannot be avoided, but most travel agencies that have established all contacts and partnerships can take care of approvals with the embassy.

At independent travel can help out with an order individual tour, which includes visa assistance, flight to Prague (with return air ticket), booking of several hotels along the route.

Travelers with a permanent Schengen visa can travel to Prague on their own. An air ticket from Moscow to Prague “Ruzina” (round trip) costs 16,700 – 21,500 rubles. Many flights have a short layover in Warsaw. You can fly to Karlovy Vary for 26,000 - 27,200 rubles. If you search and order tickets in advance, you can find tickets at half the price.

The Moscow-Vienna train runs three times a week. It is convenient for travelers who cannot bear airplanes. The journey to Prague takes only 26 hours. A compartment ticket costs 11,800 – 12,400 rubles. The route to Vienna also passes through Karlovy Vary. In terms of travel prices, the most attractive are bus and combined (train + bus) group excursions, they can be found at a price of 20,000 rubles.

Tours to the Czech Republic

Organized tours to the Czech Republic are varied. The most popular tours include air travel. Saving time for many tourists turns out to be more important than the price of tickets. The price of the tour depends on the duration, hotel category, and the intensity of excursion services. Tour operators sell a typical week-long air tour for 26,000 – 28,000 rubles.

The most economical are last-minute tours to the Czech Republic, which can be found at prices of 18,000 - 24,000 rubles (8-11 days).

The busiest excursions are the bus ones. combined tours in which the entire route is built around visiting certain attractions. An example of a tense bus tour could serve as a trip “Czech Paradise and UNESCO Monuments”, passing through the entire Czech Republic, some areas.

The main goal of the trip is the Bohemian Paradise nature reserve with the most beautiful Prachov rocks. In addition to the reserve, tourists explore Prague (sightseeing, hiking). From the capital, tourists move to Karlovy Vary, Frantiskovy Lazne, visit water complex"Aquaforum". Returning to Prague via Cesky Krumlov allows you to visit the romantic Rožmberk Castle, the city's defensive citadel.

Tourists can devote a day of rest in Prague to relaxation, shopping, and for those who wish, an excursion to Dresden is possible. The further route passes through Zleby Castle, the towns of Kutna Hora, Telc, and the Pernstein fortress. Lednice Castle, Mikulov. After visiting the Moravian Karst caves, tourists explore and return to Russia through Brest.

Most serviced tours include transportation, hotel check-in, breakfast, and several excursions (often optional). Tourists need to take care of the rest of their meals and pastime on their own, so the prices of transport, food, and excursion services are important.

Currency exchange, food, shopping

Ten Czech crowns cost approximately 27 rubles. When exchanging 100 dollars you will receive about 2400 CZK, for one hundred euros exchange offices will pay 2700 CZK. Experienced travelers do not recommend exchanging currency at the airport or train station. Best courses exchange, small commissions are offered by small exchange offices in the center of Prague (usually Arabs work in them), large banks.

There are no problems with food in the Czech Republic. Thousands of Prague zucchini, cafes, restaurants are ready to feed tourists deliciously. Food prices are the lowest in Europe; even in Prague you can dine much cheaper than in Moscow (with the same class of catering establishments). In small provincial towns prices are 2-3 times lower.

At first, Russians are naturally interested in Czech cuisine. Huge portions, traditional dishes - Czech pork knuckle, grilled duck, trdlo, goulash, langoshe, fried sausages, baked meat, corn dishes - are admired. In fashionable Prague restaurants, a baked pork knee costs 400 CZK, and a baked duck costs about 370 CZK. In more modest cafes in Prague, you can have lunch (first, second, modest dessert) for 250-300 CZK. The famous Czech beer costs 30-50 CZK. The varieties sold at the brewery that cannot be purchased elsewhere are considered more expensive.

Over time, the abundance of meat and flour begins to get boring. Not everyone is a fan of the ubiquitous dumplings beloved by the Czechs. For such tourists, in the Czech Republic there are establishments with all the cuisines of the world. Thus, in provincial Podebrady there are restaurants serving Azerbaijani (with Russian borscht, cutlets with mashed potatoes), Italian, Mexican, and Chinese cuisine. At the same time, you can have lunch almost anywhere for 80 – 110 CZK.

Cigarettes are very expensive, alcohol prices are comparable to Russian prices. Experienced tourists in Prague avoid traveling by expensive taxi. Net public transport allows you to quickly get to any place; tickets for the tram and bus are sold at certain time(30, 90 minutes), cost 24-32 CZK. If there is active movement, it is more profitable to buy daily, weekly single ticket, which has no time restrictions.

For budget travel The prices for visiting museums, castle exhibitions, and historical attractions are also important. There are many museums in Prague that welcome visitors for free. These are the museums of the “city of Prague”, “Moser glass”, aviation, fashion, decorative arts, and military museums. Concerts of jazz and classical music are also free and regularly held in the gardens of Prague Castle.

The times of active travel by Soviet tourists for quality Czechoslovak goods are long over. Products of international brands are sold in Russia at similar prices. The exception was high-quality Czech shoes from Bata, which can be bought much cheaper than in Russia. There are good seasonal discounts in the Zara and MEXX chains.

Russians buy souvenirs as gifts for their relatives: Czech glass, crystal, national dolls, beer mugs (50-150 CZK), and handicrafts. Most souvenirs are sold at prices common throughout the Czech Republic. Products of folk craftsmen can be bought cheaper at Sunday provincial and rural bazaars, summer and autumn fairs.

How to choose a tour, what to see in the Czech Republic

Choosing a tour Russian tourists focus on the main purpose of the trip. For health tourism on a limited budget, in addition to the expensive Karlovy Vary, you can choose Marianske Lazne (140 healing springs for drinking, inhalation and bathing, 45 km from Kalovy Vary, treatment of the musculoskeletal system, kidneys, diabetes, gynecological diseases), Frantiskovy Lazne (21 source mineral water, treatment of cardiovascular systems, health rehabilitation after heart attacks).

Russians practically do not know the resorts of Darkov (iodine-bromine water, treatment of the musculoskeletal system, neurological diseases), Konstantinovy ​​Lazne (about 120 km from Prague, hydrogen sulfide waters, treatment of heart diseases), Annensky peat and mud resort (Lazne Belograd). At all these resorts, prices for accommodation, food, and medical procedures are much lower than in Karlovy Vary.

Popular Czech ski resorts Pec pod Snezkou, Spindleruv Mlyn compare favorably low prices from Austrian, French, Swiss. This applies to all components ski holiday: food, accommodation, cost of lifts, rental (except for the purchase of branded equipment). There are no particularly difficult trails here, so these regions are preferable for beginners.

For ecological summer tourism, Czech connoisseurs choose Lake Lipno (220 km from Prague). Lake surrounds nature reserve Sumava, coastline reaches 150 kilometers. The lake has excellent conditions for active rest(walking, cycling), windsurfing, sailing, sport fishing.

Another favorite place for Czech tourists is Machovo Lake. The artificial reservoir, dug for fish breeding by order of the Czech King Charles the Fourth (1376), today occupies 278 hectares. The lake is surrounded by pine and beech forests, on two small islands (Mouse Castle, Kahni Island) there are posts State Nature Reserve birds.

For educational tourism, the most developed in the Czech Republic, you can find attractions throughout the country. Largest quantity architectural and historical monuments are concentrated in Prague, where the main excursions are reviews historical center, Prague Castle, Hradcany, Vysehrad, Jewish Quarter.

Most popular routes across the country are held in:

Cesky Krumlov (with a visit to Hluboka Castle, St. Vitus Church);
Kutna Hora (visit to the Ossuary, Sternberk, Žleby castles);
Konopiste Castle;
Turnov (excursions to the Czech Paradise reserve, Sychrov castle, to the pomegranate factory);
Karlštejn Castle;
Detenice Castle.

Experienced tourists, who are visiting the Czech Republic not for the first time, prefer provincial areas unfamiliar to Russians. Poděbrady, close to Prague, was founded on Labe in 1224. Located in the city old castle, a mineral water clinic, it is surrounded by beautiful forests and is interesting in the provincial life of the Czech Republic.

small town Grzhensk, on the border with Germany, is famous for the “Pravczycka Brana” - a huge rock arch leading into the mountain labyrinths through which walking trail. National natural Park « Czech Switzerland"occupies about eighty square kilometers; in its vicinity there are many hotels, campsites, and mountain shelters.

Little-known to Russians, Moravia abounds historical monuments, natural attractions. Popular excursions among Czech tourists to the castles of Valtice, Lednice, the unique Moravian Zizkov brewery, the cities of Kromeriz, Olomouc, Znojmo, Vranov nad Dyje are conducted from Brno and Luhacovice.

Best time to travel

According to weather best time For traveling to the Czech Republic it becomes late spring, early autumn. The mild climate of the Central European country, protected by mountains, prolongs the summer weather; spring here begins earlier than in Russia. Therefore, good weather begins in mid-April and lasts until the second half of October.

These same seasons are economically preferable. The highest peak prices occur during the Christmas holidays. New Year, July August. The summer influx of foreign tourists is intensified by the flow of Czech vacationers who come to Prague, receive treatment in Karlovy Vary, Marianske Lazne, and enjoy visiting unfamiliar places in the country. In May-June, prices for housing and excursion services do not yet reach the summer peak; in September-October they fall quite sharply. Inexpensive campsites, motels, and boarding houses, where it would be problematic to stay in the summer, are being vacated. Prices for food and transport are stable throughout the year.

Solo travel

For three or four inquisitive fidgets the best way seeing “as much as possible” becomes a road trip. Traveling from Russia by car is too tiring, although many motorists decide to do it. An easier option is to rent a car, which can be rented directly at Prague airport.

Attractive bonuses for road travelers include complete freedom in choosing a route, attractions to visit, the ability to search for inexpensive hotels, and arbitrary daily departure times. For such a route you need to carefully prepare in advance so as not to miss historical places, interesting natural attractions, castles located a few kilometers from the main road.

Reckless drivers are not recommended to travel by car in the Czech Republic; fines for road violations are unusually high. Thus, prohibited overtaking leads to a fine of 5,000 crowns, the same amount for speeding. It should be noted that the police are lenient towards violations in rental cars, and Russian drivers in someone else’s car behave extremely carefully.

Gasoline prices in the Czech Republic are lower than average European prices (only Polish prices are cheaper), although they are higher than Russian prices. Petrol costs €1,143, slightly higher than diesel (€1,165).

Cheap Czech hotels

Accommodation in Prague naturally costs more. In other Czech cities, Prague prices for overnight accommodation can be easily divided in half. The cost of living in fashionable, expensive Karlovy Vary is comparable to Prague prices. Booking a room in advance in the most affordable hostels and boarding houses in the capital is problematic; this can be done on the spot (via the Internet, by walking around).

Of the thousands of hotels in Prague, most are middle class with prices ranging from 40 to 70 euros.

A night's stay costs 600-800 rubles. Two - three star hotels the capitals of the Czech Republic offer accommodation for 1000 -1700 rubles. As a rule, these are multi-storey modern, standard buildings with European comfort, without antique frills. For lovers of inexpensive comfort, combined hotel complexes are interesting. Thus, the two-star building “Top Easy Star” is located on the territory of the four-star hotel “TOP HOTEL”, its guests can use the neighboring indoor pool and tennis courts.

For an economical stay, it is better to choose a boarding house (apartment), which can be booked for 1300 – 1700 rubles. In the Czech province, private boarding houses can be considered the best form of accommodation. They are often not marked with any rating stars, but are always clean, comfortable, and hospitable. In a provincial hotel (3.4 stars) in the fall you can book a room for 1800 - 2900 rubles, but you need to make a reservation in advance.

Travel to neighboring countries

Not only is it easy to travel through the Czech Republic by car, there are no obstacles to visiting neighboring countries: Austria, Germany, Hungary, France. When traveling there are no problems with customs, border guards, or visas. However, excursion trips to Vienna, Munich, Dresden are included in the mandatory program of many tours and are offered to tourists on free days.

The most popular excursions from Prague:

• to Dresden (with a visit to Altstadt, the Zwinger palace ensemble, the Dresden Art Gallery);
• to Vienna (from sightseeing tour, inspection of the Ankerur clock, St. Ruprecht's Church, Town Hall, Parliament, Opera House, Habsburg residence);
• to Munich (with stops at the castles of Bavaria).

The same excursions can be purchased in Prague from Czech tour operators, where they are cheaper. A trip to Dresden can be found for 20-24 EUR (per person), to Vienna - for 18 euros.

There are a lot of interesting natural places in the Czech Republic that are suitable for a real trip or a short one-day outing. The Czechs themselves are constantly exploring the country, and in a hiking format: climbing mountains, rafting down rivers, and participating in volunteer camps. In any wild corner of the Czech Republic you will meet a family with a baby, a group of cheerful old people and a fashionable couple with an energetic terrier. See the places where The Chronicles of Narnia were filmed, climb the highest mountain or wander into the most deep cave, find out what the Czech paradise looks like or try coffee in the mountains, for which even Austrians come - don’t be afraid to move away from the cities you know, especially since Czech nature is especially beautiful in the fall.

How to plan a trip?

Hiking is very simple and convenient: absolutely all paths in the country are marked with special signs of different colors (red, green, yellow, blue, and usually this is not related to the severity of a particular route), and at intersections there are signs with the names of the nearest settlements or attractions and distances to them. It is impossible to get lost, planning a route is easy. There are four national parks in the Czech Republic. All of them are accessible to visitors, although they have different zones - some are prohibited for tourists (signs will inform you about this). Also, in national parks you cannot go with hiking trails monk and make a fire. Except national parks There are many natural areas with less strict visiting conditions - you can safely spend the night in a tent there.

The algorithm for planning any trip to the Czech Republic looks like this: find the ones closest to the chosen one natural place settlements. A trouble-free Czech transport assistant will help you create a route to them. idos.cz. Then search for this place on mapy.cz in the layer with designated tourist routes, study local attractions (they are all marked on the map) and choose the color of the route. Mapy.cz is only in the Czech version, but the common Slavic roots of Google Translate work wonders. The map also shows information points where you can get an analogue map of the area.

The highest mountain

Snowball(Sněžka) - part of the Krknoše mountain range and national park. This is the highest part of the Sudetes, and Snezka itself is the highest mountain in the Czech Republic, 1602 meters, and it is located exactly on the border with Poland. The height is just right so that you can climb without much prior physical preparation and feel the joy of conquering the highest mountain in the country.

The ascent begins in a tourist village at the foot of the mountains - Pec-pod-Snezkoy. It consists mainly of guesthouses and ski rentals, but it has its own convenient and useful website - you will find there a map, tourist routes, discounts, places to stay and entertainment. Plan a whole day for the climb. A blue tourist trail leads from the village to the top of the mountain, flat at first and then increasingly steep (for the lazy, you can take the cable car). The forest around us changes, like a geography textbook, into an increasingly arctic landscape (as does the weather, so don't forget to dress warmly) until all that remains is boulders and lichens.

Poles rise from the opposite side of the mountain, and you all gather together on the cloudy top. There is a cafe that looks like a UFO and a postal station - don't miss the opportunity to send your friends a postcard from the highest point in the Czech Republic. You can go down another way - follow the yellow route, then turn onto the green one.

By the way, in addition to Snezka, there are many other mountains and many hiking routes of varying difficulty, so lovers of mountain walks can safely stay for a couple of days, and in winter, of course, go skiing.

Deepest cave

To get to the Moravian Karst, you need to get to the city of Blansko, and from there go to the objects that interest you on foot or by local buses. There is a fee for visiting the caves of the Moravian Karst - check the prices and schedule on the website, and keep in mind that during the tourist season, i.e. From May to September, it makes sense to book your tickets several weeks in advance. And one more thing: it is very cold in the caves, do not forget about warm clothes and shoes even in summer.

The largest forest

Šumava(Šumava) - the largest national park in the Czech Republic, a huge forest on the border with Germany and Austria, green roof Europe. You can wander through this ancient and fabulous forest for several weeks at any time of the year: climb mountains and look at the clouds lying like cotton wool in the valleys, walk through lakes, rivers and swamps, or just listen to the green noise.

To begin with, you can see the main Šumava lakes. From Špičak take the yellow route to Devil's Lake, and then along the red one - to Cherny. Along the way you will pass the European watershed - a mountain range, on one side of which rivers flow into the Black Sea, and on the other - into the North. Both lakes are at an altitude of more than 1000 meters. Devil's Lake is called so because of the legend about the devil who supposedly drowned here with a stone on his tail. Further along the same red path you can reach the White Ravine waterfall (this is the highest waterfall in Sumava - 13 meters) and along the yellow path you can go to the Hamry-Hojsova Stráž station.

You can walk along the canyon of the Otter River, full of rapids and waterfalls - a special Povydří trail has been created there, which goes from the village of Antýgl to Čenkova Pila(red route). If you're lucky, you might even meet the otters themselves.

Finally, it is worth exploring the surroundings of the largest Czech reservoir, Lipno - go to Lipno nad Vltavou. There you can also walk along the route through the treetops and good weather even see the Alps.

A site about Sumava from local enthusiasts.

White cliffs of southern Moravia

Palava(Pálava) are several low (549 meters) white limestone mountains in southern Moravia, on the border with Austria. They arose back in the Mesozoic era, and in the Neolithic people already lived here. Local archaeological find, the clay figurine of Venus of Vestonitskaya is one of the most ancient clay products in the world.

Best to get to Mikulov(which in itself is worth a visit). In summer, a special express train (Expres Pálava - Podyjí) runs from Brno in the morning and evening - the journey takes only a few hours. You can set out on foot from Mikulov - this is a five-kilometer walk through spacious fields with vineyards (red tourist route).

On the way you will meet a place Kletnice with a cafe where people even from Austria come to have a cup of coffee. The garden around the cafe looks like a magical place, but be careful - the prices here are comparable to a good Prague restaurant.

There are several hiking trails along the mountain range itself, easier and more difficult. We advise you to choose the one that goes through the entire “ridge” of the mountain (red) - it is more steep, but all the most interesting things are located on it: the symbol tree of Pálava, the highest point (Děvín) with a breathtaking view of the whole of southern Moravia and Novomlynskoe reservoir, ruins of Děvičky castle. Then you can go down to the wine-growing village of Pavlov, reward yourself for a great trip with a glass (or bottle) of local white wine from a variety that bears the same name - Palava. The reservoir by the way - perfect place for windsurfing, in the middle there are artificially created islands for nesting birds and an island with a church - the top of the hill of the flooded village of Musov.

Paradise branch

If you need to get a Czech experience in a concentrated form, namely to see many different castles in the middle of forests and mountains, then you are in Czech paradise, and this is not a play on words. Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj) - protected natural area in the north of the Czech Republic, 182 square kilometers of forest and rocks between the cities of Turnov, Jičín and Mnichovo Hradiště. Once upon a time, a long time ago, the sea splashed here and volcanoes erupted, but time and wind turned the seabed into bizarre rocks - however, you can still find sand under your feet. Entire cities are made from rocks, others have their own names - Lighthouse or Dragon, for example. It is quite possible to explore this region for several days, especially since in addition to the rocks there are many different castles here. The most famous are Trosky Castle (two towers on two rocks opposite each other) and Kost Castle, which often hosts medieval festivals.

Most popular here Prahov Rocks(Prachovské skály). This is a very beautiful rock city, which has observation decks and the castle of Parges, carved into the rocks themselves. The place is also popular with climbers. It is better to explore this region from the city of Prachov along the green or red route.

The second large popular group is Hrubá skála - the path to it lies along the blue path from the Hrubá skála railway station of the same name.

Plan independent trip to the Czech Republic! We tell you how to travel in 2020: where to go, what to see, how to save money, how to get a visa, what to try.

How to get to the Czech Republic on your own

Ticket prices are per person, round trip. high season.

The most convenient way is to fly from Russia to Prague - there are many flights. If you need to travel to other cities, it is easy to get from the capital by bus or train.

The cheapest way to fly to the Czech Republic is from Moscow - tickets cost from 10 thousand rubles with a transfer, and a direct flight - from 14 thousand. Ticket prices from St. Petersburg are higher - from 13 thousand rubles for a direct flight, but without luggage (airBaltic).

Flights from the regions are expensive. It is relatively inexpensive to fly from Kaliningrad and Kazan - from 13 thousand rubles, and also from Rostov, Yekaterinburg and Samara - from 15 thousand.

If you couldn’t find inexpensive tickets, buy a tour - sometimes it’s cheaper than traveling on your own. For example, trips to Prague for two from Moscow for 6 nights cost from 40 thousand rubles. However, the price includes tickets, accommodation, meals and transfer.

Visa to the Czech Republic

To travel to the Czech Republic you need a Schengen visa. It’s easy to get it yourself - correctly collect the standard package of documents and submit them in advance. The main thing is confirmed hotel and ticket reservations, insurance and a sufficient amount of money in the account.

Don't forget about insurance! It will save you from expenses in case of emergency. Register it on the services or. Cost - from 300 rubles per week.

Transport in the Czech Republic

Intercity transport

Trains. The Czech Republic has a dense network railways. Main center- this is Prague, there are several railway stations. From the main station (Praha Hlavní Nádraží) - trains depart to cities in the Czech Republic and to other countries. We went from there to Kutna Hora. Trains also run from Nádraží Holešovice station to European cities, and from Masarykovo nadraži - mainly to Czech ones. The cost of a ticket from Prague to Karlovy Vary is 160 CZK (second class). .

If you are interested in trips from Prague to European cities, we recommend reading, and.

You can travel independently around the Czech Republic cheaply on Student Agency and Eurolines buses. For example, a ticket from Prague to Karlovy Vary costs from 130 CZK. It can be purchased online. There is no need to print it out; you can send it to your phone and show it to the driver.

You can independently organize a trip between cities in the Czech Republic, Europe, or just around Prague. The search engine shows everything possible ways travel

Transport in Prague

The main types of transport in Prague are the metro, buses and trams.

Trams and buses run even at night - they have separate schedules on dark blue signs at the stops. Night transport runs from 0:30 to 4:30. Metro operating hours are from 5:00 to 24:00. Schemes of day and night transport routes, as well as a metro plan, can be downloaded for free in excellent quality.

You can buy tickets from vending machines at some metro stations and stops, ticket offices, newspaper and tobacco kiosks, as well as via SMS. Read more about purchasing a ticket via SMS on the website www.smsjizdenka.cz.

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An inconspicuous city hotel hidden in the narrow city streets (Photo © booking.com / Hotel Leon D´Oro)

Remember that hotels become more expensive during high season. It is better to book them 3-4 months in advance - this way you will find the best option at a good price. Peak time is summer and new year holidays.

View from the window of the Studio Nicolas Prague apartment (Photo © booking.com / Studio Nicolas Prague)

What to see in the Czech Republic on your own

Search interesting excursions on the Sputnik and . Individual and group, without crowds of tourists and in Russian.

So, if you are planning an independent trip to the Czech Republic, we advise you first of all to get to know Prague, which has won the love of millions of people. However, the number of attractions is off the charts in other cities of the country.

Prague

Prague is one continuous attraction. It will take more than one day to get around them all. However, when going on an independent trip to the Czech Republic, do not forget to pay attention to other cities in the country.

The Old Town is the most famous area. Usually tourists begin to get acquainted with the city precisely from where the monument to Jan Hus, the town hall with an astronomical clock and the Tyn Church are located. Located next door.

Prague is a city oversaturated with tourists. Most of them are in the summer and on New Year's holidays. We advise you to be mentally prepared for such a number of people.

Brno

Must see in Brno, former capital Moravia: the Church of St. Jacob, where the ossuary is located, the Church of St. Yana, gothic cathedral Saints Peter and Paul, the castles of Špilberk, Veveří and Slavkov, where the Battle of Austerlitz took place, the Capuchin and Augustine monastery and much more. There are many in Brno art galleries and universities.

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Note for gourmets: food in the Czech Republic

An independent trip to the Czech Republic is a great opportunity to arrange a gastrotour! Here's what to try on your trip:

• Roasted pork knuckle, served with garnish and sauces. It is especially good with beer. The portions are large, so don't overestimate your strength.
• As an alternative to knuckle - baked pork with gravy, stewed cabbage and dumplings. In general, they cook from pork in the Czech Republic great amount dishes: baked pork ribs in honey, grilled pork, pork roll, pork goulash, steak and pork schnitzel, etc. Lamb and beef are present, but in smaller quantities.

• Game and poultry dishes also common: pheasant breasts, hare pate, baked partridges, foie gras, baked geese, ducks, pheasants, etc.
• Beer snacks are very popular in the Czech Republic: these are the so-called drowners- spicy pickled bacon, usually consumed after a couple of glasses of beer, and hermelin- soft cheese with white mold (can be fried, baked and pickled).

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Jáchymov and Marianske Lazne are suitable for people suffering from diseases of the respiratory tract and musculoskeletal system. Jáchymov is the first medical resort in the world and in the Czech Republic in particular with radon sources. This is a quiet and calm city, helping to restore mental and physical harmony. Besides taking baths, you can look summer palace, palace park 16th century and glacial caves, as well as climb Mount Klinovec.

Marianske Lazne- the second most popular resort in the Czech Republic, there are about 40 healing springs. The city is also famous for the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with 33 steps symbolizing the years of the life of Christ, the Anglican Church, the Evangelical Church and Orthodox church St. Vladimir. In the vicinity of the city there are nature reserves Kladska and Smradech, through which ecological trails pass.

Frantiskovy Lazne specializes in the treatment of gynecological diseases and the genitourinary system, 21 sources come to the surface. Like other cities, there are many attractions here: the resort, despite its developed infrastructure, has retained the appearance of the city of the early twentieth century.

(photo © Yael Gripich / flickr.com)

Ski resorts in the Czech Republic

The Czech Republic in winter is no less interesting for tourists than at other times of the year. Ski resorts in the Czech Republic are a worthy alternative to Western European ones, despite the medium-altitude mountains. Their undoubted advantage is their location: many centers are located near or in protected areas.

Some of the most popular ski resorts in the Czech Republic are located in Krkonoše, where Mount Snezka is located with a height of 1602 meters - the highest point in the country. These are resorts such as Pec pod Snezkou, Spindleruv Mlyn, Janske Lazne, Harrachov, Karpacz, Szklarska Poreba and others. The resorts are very picturesque: the slopes of the mountain range are covered with pine and spruce forests, from here the Elbe River originates. Snow lies here from November to May.

Second largest mountain Jeseníky massif not inferior in popularity to the Giant Mountains. Despite the mottled tourist routes And ski slopes, there are also unexplored corners here - for example, the Rychleb Mountains do not have a developed tourist infrastructure. The highest point is Praded (1491 m).

In general, the Jeseniky region is considered one of the most promising regions: here you can get medical treatment, which will cost much less than in Karlovy Vary, and engage in active sports, be it skiing, cycling or trekking. The massif is also not deprived of attractions and natural beauty - it is clearly worth going here not as part of a tourist group. If you are traveling around the Czech Republic on your own, we definitely recommend visiting Jeseniky.

(photo © CzechR / flickr.com)

Sumava Mountains With highest point 1378 m (Mount Plekhi) is also not offended by the attention of travelers. As in Jeseniky, recreation here is varied, and the nature is gorgeous.

Moravian-Silesian Beskids- a colorful massif with the highest point Lysaya Gora (1323 m). Developed infrastructure, good service. Places favored by tourists are Pustevny, Yavorovy, Bila, Solan. Fans of winter sports will be pleased with Bila's ideal trails and slopes of varying degrees of difficulty.

Ore Mountains with the peak of Klinovec (1244 m) are not so popular among tourists, but they also have a lot to offer: ski resorts (Bozi Dar and Klinovec), and thermal springs, and attractions.

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Introductory image source: © @notnixon / flickr.com.