Dar er salaam tanzania on the map. Dar es Salaam – is the former capital of Tanzania worth visiting? Our overnight hotel experience in Dar es Salaam

Most likely, inexperienced tourists will dissuade you from traveling to Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) and will strongly recommend going straight to Zanzibar. Do not give in to persuasion and go to the city of Mira. Tanzania is a country with a rich and complex past, as well as an unusual salad from various nationalities and faiths. Take a look at the statistics to see that everything is unusual in this country. In the country, 35% are Christians, 40% are Muslims and 25% are representatives of African religions. And the whole world knows the most odious African leader, Julius Nyerere. So, the journey to Tanzania begins.

City of Peace

Dar es Salaam Airport greets guests with bustle, high humidity and an air temperature of +40. Tourists have the right to holiday in Tanzania with one of three visas:

transit – $30;
regular tourist – 50 $;
multiple visa – $100.

Note! There may be difficulties in obtaining a transit visa - the border guard will definitely require a ticket for the next flight. If you don’t have such a ticket, you will have to apply for a regular visa.

Afterwards, tourists are pasted with visas into their passports, which takes about 20-30 minutes, and the border guard issues a document with wishes for a pleasant trip.

general information

Dar es Salaam is a fairly young city (founded in 1866), but has already achieved the status of the capital of Tanzania. It is believed that tourists have nothing to do here, but we will try to refute this statement. The metropolis can rightly be called a city of contrasts - modern high-rise buildings and poor slums peacefully coexist here. The people are very friendly - everyone says Jumbo, which means "hello", and Caribou, which means "welcome". The colonial past did not disappear without a trace - buildings from different peoples of the world and representatives of different religions remained in its memory. To feel the atmosphere of the city, visit Buddhist pagodas, Chinatowns, stroll among English houses, and do not ignore Islamic mosques, Buddhist pagodas and Catholic cathedrals. The cannons that have been installed here since the Portuguese rule remain on the streets.

Interesting fact! Despite the fact that the name translates as the city of Peace, there was no real peace here. Fortunately, today we are not talking about violence, but such a possibility always exists. The roots of the conflict lie in Tanzania's colonial past, as well as in the ongoing hostility between African Christians and Muslims.

The history of Dar es Salaam has many tragic and cruel pages. Muslims were the most cruel. In the middle of the 20th century, Europeans left the metropolis and since that time Muslims have carried out mass terror - the number of killed reached several tens of thousands of civilians. Only those who left their homes by sea and moved to the mainland managed to escape. Today, Dar es Salaam is a multinational and multiethnic metropolis, home to more than five million people. Cultural life it flows here around the clock.

Interesting fact! Tanzanian women are some of the most attractive on the African continent. And Dar es Salaam is a city of kind smiles and sincere interest in guests.

National Museum

It is better to explore the central part on foot, visiting the National Museum, where treasures from the Ngorongoro crater are displayed, art galleries, where you can buy colorful paintings by local artists, national clothes and jewelry. Be careful - there are many scammers here who offer various services at inflated prices. Most of them are in the port area - here tourists are offered tickets to Zanzibar three or even four times higher than the prices at the ticket office. As night falls, life blossoms with new colors - the doors of nightclubs, casinos and discos open.

Good to know! To Dar es Salaam highest concentration entertainment venues throughout Tanzania.

what you can do in Dar es Salaam - relax on the picturesque embankment among coconut trees to the sound of the Indian Ocean, catch and eat fresh oysters, play golf, tell God your most secret things in a Protestant church;
visit an ocean safari.

On a note! There are many administrative buildings in the center, so it is relatively safe to relax here. Motorcyclists ride around the city, snatching bags and Cell phones– be careful.

Attractions

Of course, Dar es Salaam is not as rich in remarkable places as large European resorts and the capital, but there is also something to see here. The sights of Dar es Salaam are imbued with the atmosphere of Africa and the traditional flavor of this continent.

Slipway Shopping Center

Here travelers are offered a large selection of various folk art goods and services. Here you can buy the best authentic African souvenirs for every taste at fairly reasonable prices. The assortment includes paintings, textiles, tea, coffee, books, jewelry and clothing. After visiting the shops, you need to relax, visit a beauty salon, and eat in a restaurant. Families with children are recommended to visit the ice cream salon and the shop with a huge selection of sweets.

Interesting fact! A nice bonus - scenic view to Msasani Bay.

The shopping complex was built near the Stapel beach. People come here to admire the picturesque sunsets over the Indian Ocean and just relax. There is a yacht club nearby.

Photo: the former capital of Tanzania - Dar es Salaam.

The Ethnographic Museum is located under open air is located approximately 10 km from the former capital. The village is a thematic part National Museum countries. Here it is best to study in detail the life and culture of African inhabitants.

Typical buildings for the country are installed right in the open air; guests can go into each house and see household items. Not far from the huts, shelters for domestic animals and livestock have been built, and household facilities have been built - sheds, ovens.

Rural and local holidays especially attract tourists. For a very nominal fee you can take part in special events. The village sells national clothes, jewelry, and souvenirs.

Good to know! Local holidays are held on Thursdays and Sundays from 16-00 to 20-00.

Practical information:

To receive a program of special events, send a request to the following email address: [email protected];
The best way to get to the village is by minibus with the sign For Makumbusho on the New Bagamoyo Road.

St Joseph's Cathedral

This religious site is one of the best jewelry Dar es Salaam in Zanzibar. Cathedral - amazing place where there is a feeling of calm and tranquility. It is best to combine a tour of the architecture and prayer in the temple.

Interesting fact! The cathedral is always cool, so you can come here to hide from the midday heat.

The temple was built in the center, not far from the ferry crossing. The building is decorated in a colonial style - it is one of the first cathedrals. Today, the colonial-style building has been completed - a grotto has appeared in it, where you can retire for personal prayers.

Practical information:

Every Sunday services are held in the cathedral;
entrance to the temple is free;
The cathedral is one of the best places for photographs; you can catch wonderful shots in the morning.

This is a special place in Dar es Salaam, where there is a lot of fresh fish and a special African flavor. The nuances that should be paid attention to are hygiene and specific smell. It’s better to go to the market early in the morning - you can choose the freshest, best seafood, and there aren’t so many people. Here you can find almost everything animal world ocean. For one dollar your purchase will be prepared, but given that hygiene rules are not observed here, it is better to prepare the food yourself. The prices at the market are some of the best in Dar es Salaam and the seafood tastes the freshest.

For local residents, the fish market is a way of life. Twice a day an auction is held here - the fish are laid out on a large table and buyers begin to bargain for it. The one who offers the most wins high price. Local housewives, resellers and restaurant representatives buy goods at the market.

The ferry crossing is very popular, it best transport for local residents to get to and from the country's capital. Tourists use the ferry to go on safari or visit the island part of Tanzania.

Four ferries depart towards Zanzibar every day, and they move quite quickly.

If you love comfort and speed, choose a plane.

To travel by ferry you must have a passport with you;
ferry schedule: 7-00, 09-30, 12-30 and 16-00 – the time is relevant for transport departures in both directions;
travel time approximately two hours;
ticket prices: a trip in the VIP zone – $50, a trip in economy class will cost $35;
the number of tickets in economy class is unlimited, so be prepared to travel while standing;
It is better to book tickets and seats in advance on the Azam company website; under no circumstances buy tickets on the street;
VIP class passengers can visit the bar;
maximum luggage weight is 25 kg.

Beaches of Dar es Salaam

This city in Tanzania is located near the equator, so it is not surprising that many are interested in the beaches of Dar es Salaam and the opportunity to relax by the sea.

Good to know! There are beaches within the city, but guests are not recommended to relax and swim here - the water is too dirty, the shore is not very comfortable.

Jangwani Sea Breeze Resort

The best resorts are located north of the city, where hotels with private beach. To take advantage of all the amenities on the shore, just buy a drink or some food.

Ferries depart from the White Sands Hotel to the island. You can also get there by boat from the shopping center. To relax on the beach, it is better to set aside the whole day to try fresh seafood caught in front of vacationers from the Indian Ocean.

The island is surrounded by a marine reserve, so you need to come here with a mask. Trees grow on the shore, there are baobabs, but no palm trees. The seabed and shore are covered with sand and rocks.

Interesting fact! There are no hotels on the shore, but for a fee you can spend the night in a tent.

This desert island, covered a huge amount vegetation, white sand, and colorful fish swim in the water. Bongoyo is part of the Marine Reserve. People come here to breathe fresh air, relax and feel absolute peace, run after lizards and, of course, snorkel or dive to the bottom with scuba gear.

The best stretch of beach is located in the northwest of Bongoyo, there are huts and you can buy food and cold drinks. On the opposite side of the island developed infrastructure absent, but the sandy strip of the beach here is longer and there are practically no people.

Good to know! It is not advisable to walk around the island on your own - there is a high probability of meeting snakes.

Food and accommodation

Cape Town Fish Market

Restaurants and cafes in Dar es Salaam pay special attention to fish and seafood dishes. Geographical location allows you to fully utilize the benefits of the ocean. There are also themed establishments serving Japanese and Thai cuisine.

The average bill in an inexpensive cafe will cost from 2 to 6 $. Lunch at a restaurant for two costs from $20 to $35. The average fast food bill costs about $6 per person.

There are enough hotels and inns here; guests will be able to choose a room for themselves based on their budget and length of stay in the city. Here are some recommendations:

If you want to relax after a busy safari, it is better to choose hotels in Dar es Salaam in the south;
If you want to feel the atmosphere of the city, choose best hotels in the central part.

Sleep Inn Hotel - Kariakoo

The Kariakoo area, located in the city center, has budget hotels and inns. If your goal is to relax in absolute comfort, pay attention to the Msasani Peninsula.

The minimum cost of living in a three-star hotel is $18, a room in a two-star hotel costs from $35 per night.

Prices on the page are for September 2018.

Find out PRICES or book any accommodation using this form

Transport

The best way to travel around the city is by taxi. There is also a line of high-speed buses with a length of 21 kilometers, the number of stops is 29. Transport runs from 5-00 to 23-00 (the name “high-speed” is very arbitrary - the buses travel at a speed of only 23 km/h). Each bus has a ticket basket. The city has a train station from where trains depart to Lake Victoria and Zambia. There is practically no chance of taking a ride on a free train - there are so many passengers that often local residents they board the carriage through the window.

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Weather and climatic conditions

Dar es Salaam is located in the subequatorial zone, which is noteworthy - there are two dry and two wet seasons. In general, the weather is hot and humid throughout the year. Considering that the city is coastal, the humidity here is an order of magnitude higher than in other continental regions of the country.

The coldest months are summer. From June to August the air temperature drops to +19 degrees, and at night - to +14 degrees. During the rest of the year, the average daily temperature is +29 degrees.

There is enough precipitation here a rare event unlike other regions in Tanzania. The rainiest month is April, and the driest months are from early summer to mid-autumn.

How to get to Dar es Salaam? The best way– air travel with a transfer in Germany or Italy. The city is located international Airport, from where you can travel to other parts of the country. Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) is also connected by sea to other countries in Africa.

Dar es Salaam is the most Big city Tanzania and one of the largest ports on the planet. Previously, it was the capital of the country, but even having lost this status, Dar es Salaam remains economic and political center Tanzania.

The town's name means "house of peace" in Swahili: once a small harbor fishing village Mzizima could hide even large ships from the storm. The Sultan of Zanzibar, Seyyid Majid, was so fascinated by the location of the harbor that he decided to build a large city in its place. Not all of the Sultan's plans were destined to come true, but the small settlement quickly turned into largest port without his help.

Dar es Salaam, or simply Dar as the locals affectionately call it, is a popular tourist destination. True, for many tourists this city is only Starting point on the way to National parks Tanzania or islands Zanzibar, Mafia And Pembu, but Dar is also worth visiting as a destination on its own. Here beautiful architecture, beautiful beaches and all the possibilities for active rest. Therefore, everyone can come here - from extreme sports enthusiasts to families with children.

Climate and weather

Since Dar es Salaam is located on the coast of the warm Indian Ocean and very close to the equator, the climate here is tropical, with hot and humid weather throughout almost the entire year. There are two rainy seasons here: “long rains” occur in April and May, and “short rains” occur in October and November. With the exception of these months, it is comfortable to relax in Dar es Salaam. It is hottest in February and March (+23...+32 °C), relatively cool in July - August (+18...+24 °C).

Nature

The Indian Ocean Bay, where the city is comfortably located, is very picturesque in itself: once you drive from the city center to the coast, you find yourself in a beach paradise. Beautiful landscapes are also present in the city - just visit the local Botanical Garden: You can endlessly admire coconut palms, baoababs, and mango trees.

Around Dar es Salaam there are several reserves where typical representatives of African fauna live: elephants, hippopotamuses, black rhinoceroses, cheetahs, antelopes, buffalos, zebras, lions, leopards, giraffes.

Attractions

The architecture of Dar es Salaam, like many African cities, combines British, German, Arabic styles, as well as local building traditions.

The German colonists, in particular, influenced the overall layout of the city: the street network was laid out neatly and intelligently. Monuments from the German colonial era still stand in the embankment area: St. Joseph's Cathedral, Lutheran Church, German Hospital building.

Historically, the city is divided into African, European and Asian parts. The “breath” of Africa is felt on the narrow streets Old town. Northern part cities are austere boulevards and government buildings. The harbor area is the business center of Dar es Salaam with multi-storey banks, offices and famous hotel « Kilimanjaro».

One of the oldest architectural monuments of Dar es Salaam - Palace of Sultan Seyyid Majid XIX century. Colonial-era buildings are also noteworthy - and Anglican Church of St. Alban and Catholic Cathedral. It's interesting to walk around Mosca Street- a street entirely occupied by mosques.

The picturesque Mnazi Mnodzha Park where you can see historical monument — Uruhu torch stele(translated from Swahili as “freedom”), which was erected in honor of gaining independence from Great Britain.

Nutrition

The best cafes and restaurants in the city are located at the hotels and in the street area Indian Street. The restaurant is especially popular Sawasdee, the only place in Dar es Salaam, serving Thai cuisine. The interior of this elegant, spacious establishment will be a pleasant addition to a gourmet dinner.

In Dar es Salaam, special attention is paid to culinary delights from seafood, fortunately geographical position The city allows full use of ocean resources. Guests of the city are especially recommended to visit two Japanese restaurants - Oriental And Osaka. You can also try delicious pasta with seafood in the restaurant Mediterraneo, practicing a mixture of Italian and Tanzanian cuisine.

Seafood lovers will surely enjoy Karambezi Cafe at the hotel Sea Cliff Hotel. The furniture here is made from old ships." dhow", and the view of the ocean is simply wonderful. The establishment is open daily from 6:00 am to 2:00 am.

Accommodation

Choosing where to stay in Dar es Salaam depends on budget, preferences and the amount of time the guest plans to spend in the city. If you want to relax after a busy safari, choose beach hotels in the southern part of the city. You can also rent a room in a luxurious mansion The Retreat on the northern part of the coast. If your goal is to feel the pulse of city life, there are many hotels in the center or on the peninsula Msasani.

Area Kariakoo in the center is famous for cheap hotels. But even if your budget is very limited, do not check into the first hotel you come across to avoid disappointment. Has earned a good reputation among inexpensive hotels Tanso Hotel on Livingstone Road: Decent service at a reasonable price of $35 per room.

On the peninsula Msasani and Northern Beaches hotels are attractive, of course, because most of them are located right on the coast and offer magnificent views of the ocean. Especially popular here A lexander's Hotel And Tree by Hilton Dar es Salaam. All amenities and comfort are guaranteed.

Entertainment and relaxation

Dar es Salaam - perfect place for those who want to get to know the Tanzanian culture better. There are several here interesting museums, a walk through which will help you better understand the country and the people who live here.

IN National Museum you can see the archaeological and anthropological collections, which tell about the past of Tanzania from the most ancient times. For example, here you will see the skull of the Zinjanthropus primate, African ritual masks, folk musical instruments and much more.

Village Museum, which is located 10 km from the center, has collected a unique collection of traditional dwellings of all the peoples of Tanzania. It is also very exciting to watch the dance Ngoma show(ngoma means “drums”). African art is presented in Tingatinga gallery.

Fans of active recreation have access to a variety of water activities, including diving, surfing and deep sea fishing. The fishing season, by the way, is from September to March, and at this time it is easy to hook barracuda, bonito, yellowfin tuna and even large pelagic fish. On land you can play tennis and squash.

The nightlife in Dar es Salaam is very special and it is worth setting aside a few nights to enjoy its indescribable atmosphere. There are many night bars, restaurants and clubs open in the city. Considered the best casino Sea Cliff Casino.

Purchases

Souvenirs are bought in numerous shops in the center of Dar es Salaam and on the Msasani Peninsula. The most colorful souvenirs are, of course, traditional figurines of the Makonde tribe, which is famous for its wood carvers. You can see the process of making figurines in Mwenge Art Center, where unique mahogany and soapstone products are made. In addition, it is worth bringing batik and pottery from Dar es Salaam.

Regarding jewelry and precious stones, best place stores in center G are considered for purchasing them olden Plaza on Indira Gandhi Street.

If you want to buy tanzanite, visit the store Tanzanite Dream on Mataka Road. It also offers other gemstones and jewelry made in-house.

If you want extreme shopping, then the fish market is your direct route. Mzizima, which is located on southern region bays Ocean Road. It’s better to go there in a group with clearly defined roles (who will bargain, who will pay, who will watch for pickpockets). Visitors can expect unsanitary conditions, a terrible smell, noise, and din, but this is where you can buy fresh fish and seafood cheaply. Another famous market is Kariakoo— open daily from dawn to dusk. Here are the cheapest products, fruits, vegetables, souvenirs and textiles.

Payment in stores is accepted only in cash. In large stores you can pay in dollars. We recommend exchanging currency only in banks and special exchange offices.

Transport

To get around the city, the best transport in Dar es Salaam is a taxi. It's inexpensive, fast and safe. Taxi cars are usually white with a thin green stripe. Before you get into the car, you need to agree on the cost of the trip and bargain. If your destination is in a remote area from which you will have to return late, it is wise to take the taxi driver’s phone number and arrange a return trip.

Connection

Wi-Fi is available in most hotels. Internet cafes are also common. Mobile communications are not satisfactory, especially since in Dar es Salaam a local SIM card can be purchased at every step. Prepaid cards are also sold at any store or kiosk.

Safety

Although Dar es Salaam is tourist city, the level of security here is no higher than in any other metropolis. The main rule is to be vigilant in all situations, do not display expensive property and do not wander alone in remote areas or at night. It is better to leave not only valuables, but also documents in the hotel safe, and take a photocopy of them with you.

For help in an emergency you can always call the numbers 999 or 112 . If you need to report the incident to the police, it is better to do it through the hotel staff. Avoid discussions or arguments with anyone in police uniform.

Banks are open on weekdays from 08:00 to 15:00 and on Saturdays from 09:30 to 12:00. Keep in mind that Tanzanian banks only accept dollar bills that were printed after 2000. Also, banknotes with a denomination of $50 and above are more popular in exchange offices. Moreover, when exchanging them, even the exchange rate will be more profitable.

Topless sunbathing is illegal in Tanzania as it may offend the Muslim population. We strongly recommend that you behave in accordance with local customs.

Arriving at the Moscow airport early, we decided to sit in Shokoladnitsa and recharge our phones. Only a little later we realized how much this was good idea, since even at Istanbul airport there were no working sockets. Try not to run out of battery on the plane, read a paper book or magazine until you reach your destination. Or buy an extra battery for your mobile phone. Since Africa is a country with little predictability, anything can happen, and electronic devices can provide you with an invaluable service. As, for example, happened to us.

Flight from Moscow to Istanbul went perfectly: there were few Russians, no one was rowdy. Everything was quiet and peaceful, which was surprising, since it was New Year’s Eve. We spent 4 long hours in Istanbul. The airport is not very big, we walked around it in half an hour, then we struggled with what to do. Next we had a flight to Dar es Salaam. According to the plan, we were supposed to spend the night at a hotel in this city and then fly to Kilimanjaro.

Overnight in Dar es Salaam

We booked the Transit Motel Airport Hotel in Dar es Salaam, close to the airport, well in advance. A taxi to the hotel cost only $5, but we decided to save this “insane” amount and find the hotel ourselves. As you can guess, this was a big mistake.

On the way to the hotel we came across an unusual market: they sold various second-hand goods. You could buy used sneakers or a jacket at the shops. Nearby, right in the open air, local women were scribbling something on antediluvian manual typewriters, and this “something” was being sold on neighboring counters. While we were walking along, the Africans pointed their fingers at us and spoke loudly about something in the local language. The feeling, let me tell you, is not a pleasant one.

They searched for the road for a long time and painfully, because local population understands English very poorly. With grief in half, one of the passers-by pointed a finger at our hotel. In order to get to it, it was necessary to overcome one more obstacle - a wide road with a continuous flow of cars. Three lanes in one direction, and this in the absence of any hint of a pedestrian crossing or traffic light. Confused, we decided to see how the locals were crossing this route, and joined one group of desperate people. The locals went ahead. Across the cars. Phew, it feels like running across the Moscow Ring Road, only add huge bags to it.

In the evening this place looked especially lush. It is better not to go outside at night. When this flea market closes, the local population goes into overdrive. They drink everywhere and ride motorcycles. Fights often occur. The local nightclubs are especially bad. Some say that there are decent places in Dar es Salaam, for example at the Holliday Inn, where the local golden youth come to hang out, but we did not check it out from our own experience.

In general, a lot here depends on first impressions, and after our walk to the hotel, these first impressions did not in any way combine with the place where it makes sense to spend time in nightlife establishments. But you can, of course, write your own story of Dar es Salaam at night.

In general, taxi, taxi and more taxi.

Speaking of taxis. Taxis in Tanzania are very decent. The official taxis are all brand new white foreign cars, with air conditioning inside. The number of passengers allowed to be carried is indicated on the car doors. In general, taking a taxi there is much safer than walking. It may end up being cheaper in the long run.

Another reason why you should use a taxi from the airport: if you have a hotel booked, it is not at all a fact that they are waiting for you there. That is, you can arrive, but there are no available hotel rooms. Priority in hotels is given to “real people” rather than soulless electronic reservations. In this case, the taxi driver will take you to another hotel where there are free places. Find new hotel It will be difficult and dangerous to do it on your own. I think this rule does not apply to hotels of famous world chains, but “home” African hotels are unpredictable.

Our overnight hotel experience in Dar es Salaam

The main criterion for choosing a hotel in Dar es Salaam for us was proximity to the airport, because we only had 6 hours to stay in the city, and low cost.

We weren't very lucky with the hotel. In the hotel where we lived, due to high humidity in the bathroom, the shower and taps were covered with rust, you could see fungus on the walls and ceiling, and the towels were of questionable cleanliness.

Rainwater is used as water. On the roofs of many buildings there are reservoirs where water is collected and supplied to the taps. Do I need to explain that you can’t drink from the tap? The service in hotels is very specific, that is, the staff tries, but it doesn’t work out very well, at least in the cheap ones. This is Africa, so you can't count on European standards. All hotels have mosquito nets, which you must use, as mosquitoes fly everywhere. Air conditioners and massive fans located directly above the beds also help against midges.

The most interesting feature of this hotel where we stayed is the TVs, sealed in lattice cages and under locks. Apparently cases of TV theft are quite common, which indirectly perfectly describes the local socio-economic situation and the potential fate of those who save 5 bucks on a taxi. We didn’t even turn it on, you never know, it might suddenly explode. We observed this phenomenon (that is, cells) in all the hotels in Tanzania where we stayed.

I would especially like to tell you about sockets in Tanzania. They are very specific there, 220 volts, but with three holes. Our regular plug does not fit them, and there are no special adapters for them. For 5 bucks, the locals will teach you how to use the socket: into the third, “extra” hole, you need to insert some kind of stick, such as an ear plug, and use the remaining two for their intended purpose, in the sense of inserting the plug of the device. Well, or buy a universal adapter in Russia.

We spent a total of 4 hours. We managed to sleep and have breakfast. For breakfast it was something like scrambled eggs. But the best thing to do in Tanzania is not to eat animal products at all in places where questionable, especially fried ones. There is some risk of poisoning and spending one day cleansing the body. You can eat canned foods: chips, yogurt, cereal, bottled water.

After breakfast we headed back to the airport, having pre-ordered taxi for 5 bucks. Still, sometimes people learn from their own mistakes.

There was great disappointment at the airport, since the airline company we were supposed to fly with went bankrupt and was closed. All our tickets turned into useless candy wrappers. We are in Africa. We don't have tickets. On the nose New Year. Let's get a party started!

We wanted an exotic adventure and I must say that we got it. True, before the trip there was a certain illusion that everything would be with dinner parties, banquets and African performances, where everyone entertained you with overseas dishes, bright colors, skins all around and ... well, much more ... And then it turns out that we were invited to dinner , where we ourselves can become the main menu item (but more on that later). It’s too late to retreat, let’s move on...

After exploring the airport hall, it became obvious that domestic flights are very popular among Africans themselves. Apparently because of their relatively low price. Then we found out on the forums that flying there is much safer than traveling by land or water. It is especially dangerous to travel by water Zanzibar, where does the ferry go? Often they go to the bottom, along with the passengers (in 2011, more than 1,500 people died or went missing in a ferry accident, and in 2012 - about 300 people).

You should not travel around Tanzania by water, or by land either, if the distances are significant.

In general, we got out of the situation: we bought other tickets with a transfer, and we even managed to exchange some tickets for another airline. There were still six hours before the flight to our next destination. In the end, we decided again

What to see

The city center stretches along the northern shore of the inner bay from the Kivukoni fish market (Kivukoni) in the east to railway station in the West. The central embankment is named Sokoine Drive (Sokoine Dr.)- closer to the fish market it is replaced by Kivukoni Front (Kivukoni Front), and then Ocean Road picks up the baton (Ocean Rd.). A block away from the sea, Zamora Avenue runs parallel to the embankment. (Samora Av.), which is crossed by Maktaba Street (Maktaba St.)- these are the main streets of the city. Their intersection simultaneously plays a role main square Dar es Salaam. You will easily recognize this place thanks to the Askari monument (Askari Monument)- now this is what they call security guards in hotels, but a hundred years ago the word “askari” meant a soldier in the colonial army. The figure of a black infantryman with a rifle at the ready appeared in 1927 in memory of the participation of Africans in the First World War. The Bronze Soldier by James Stevenson is considered the symbol of Dar es Salaam and one of the most famous monuments in Africa. The Askari fought bravely during the East African Campaign and served as porters on the European fronts. This is exactly what Rudyard Kipling had in mind when he wrote the inscription on the pedestal and dedicated it to “those who were the feet and hands of the army in the Great War.”

Where the bronze bayonet points is the exit to the embankment. You can turn right and walk half a kilometer along Zamora Avenue: in this part it looks good thanks to the colonial buildings. On the embankment, your attention will immediately be attracted by the Lutheran Church (1898) , reminiscent of Tanzania's German past. In the shadow of its turret stands the obelisk of the cenotaph - the symbolic grave of all those who fell on the fronts of the First World War. To the right along the embankment there is a pier for catamarans connecting Dar es Salaam with Zanzibar, and St. Joseph's Cathedral - the most pompous christian temple cities. It stands in the oldest part of Dar, which arose in 1865 on the site of the fishing village of Mzizima. The founder of the city is considered to be the Zanzibar Sultan Majid, and the name Dar es Salaam means “Peaceful Harbor” in Arabic.

From the first days of its existence, it was open to all guests, which Vatican missionaries immediately took advantage of - the current cathedral (built 1897-1902) is the see of a Catholic bishop.

From the temple, you can walk a couple more blocks along Sokoine Drive to see the white two-story terraced palace on the corner of the embankment and Morogoro Road. (Morogoro Rd.), in existence since 1867. Around town they call it the “Old Shack.” (Old Boma)- This is one of the few buildings that have survived since the founding of Dar es Salaam.

Before the arrival of the Germans, the residence of the Sultan's governor was located here. In 1887, the building served as the resident office of the German East Africa Company, and in subsequent years was used by the police.

At the opposite end of the embankment is the Kivukoni fish market. Along the way, you can see German-era buildings lining up behind the Lutheran Church. The two-story bungalows with verandas are still used for their intended purpose - the city court sits in them and other institutions operate. Adjacent to the Kilimanjaro Hotel on the left is the headquarters of the Tanzania Court of Appeal. Built at the beginning of the 20th century. for the Forodani Hotel, the house under the British also became a club. Various famous guests of Dar es Salaam stayed and simply visited here - among them writers Evelyn Waugh and Roald Dahl. The first in 1930 went on a journey from the coast to the borders of the Congo, and the second lived in Dar for 5 years, working for the Shell company. The intrigue of South African Wilbur Smith's novel "The Scales of Death" also begins in Dar es Salaam and, in particular, in a local club.

The Kivukoni Fish Market is located next to the ferry terminal connecting the center with the Kigamboni area (Kigamboni). The smell is not very pleasant, but you will probably like the fishermen and their catch. At the market gates you can snack on fried sea food - small squids (100 sh./piece with hot sauce) and shrimps from the grill (Sh40,000/kg). Behind the market begins wide beach, facing the ocean and separating Ocean Road from the surf line (Ocean Rd.). This seaside boulevard is home to colonial villas, several hotels and the residence of the President of Tanzania (State House, 1922).

Street of Mosques

Mosque St.

The center of gravity of the Muslim community of Dar es Salaam is located in the Mchafukoge area (Mchafukoge) not far from the "Old Hut". Take the Morogoro Road embankment exit, go up to the Zamora Avenue junction, turn left and then right at the first junction. On the Street of Mosques next to each other are the Shiite Darkhan Mosque (Darkhana) and Sunni Memon (Memon) and Ibaddhi (Ibaddhi)- all are considered outstanding monuments of local architecture.

National Museum

Shaaban Robert St.
+255-022-2130112
www.museum.or.tz
09.30-18.00
Admission adults/schoolchildren 6500 sh. (4$) /2600sh. (1,60$) , photo 3 $, video 20 $

In the Kivukoni area, you can walk from the center along Zamora Avenue. It was once called the King George V Museum. The main treasure of the exhibition is finds from excavations in the Olduvai Gorge. These are the remains of our first ancestors and the oldest tools of human labor on Earth. In addition, you can see objects of Swahili material culture, accessories from the arsenal of slave traders and the collection of cars of President J. Nyerere.

Botanical Garden

Samora Av.
Every day 7.00-19.00
Free admission

East of the center of Dar es Salaam, opposite the National Museum and Karimjee Hall Palace (Karimjee Hall)- the former Tanzanian Parliament building. At a time when oil and gas were not yet the basis of the well-being of peoples, agriculture was the favorite occupation of the colonialists. So in Tanzania the capital Botanical Garden was created by the Germans for agronomic experiments. Then they started growing useless but very interesting exotic plants here - for example, the giant Seychelles palm tree with unusual flowers and fruits.

Tanzanian Village Museum

Kawawa Rd., next to Millenium Tower Center
+255-022-2700437
www.villagemuseum.ac.tz
Every day 9.30-18.00
Admission adults/schoolchildren 6500/3500sh.

An open-air ethnographic exhibition in the most remote part of Dar es Salaam. Dwellings and household utensils of different nationalities of mainland Tanzania are collected here, as well as traditional cultivated plants.

Money

Exchange offices (Forex bureau) can be found near the central intersection of Zamora Avenue and Maktaba Road. Another reliable exchange nickname is located next to the Anglican Church of St. Alban (St. Alban Church), against Hotel Holiday Inn.

You can withdraw cash from ATMs operating 24 hours a day, for example:

Standard Chartered Bank - Conveniently located centrally behind the Lutheran Church on the corner of Ohio Street. (Ohio St.) and Sokoine Drive.
Barclays Bank - you need to walk about 300 m along the street. Upanga Road (Upanga Rd.) from hotel Holiday Inn. The bank branch is located opposite the KLM and Kenya Airways ticket offices.

Purchases

When you see colorful sea shells and corals at the souvenir stand, don’t rush to reach for your wallet. According to the laws of Tanzania, the export of these items is prohibited, as is independent production.

There are two South African Shoprite supermarkets in Dar es Salaam.

The first is located in the western part of the city, on the road to the TAZARA railway station (2190/208 Julius K. Nyerere Rd., +255-022-218-3731)- it's not far from the center. The second one works in a large mall Mlimani City (Sam Nujoma Rd., +255-022-2700013) in the north of Dar es Salaam, accessible from the center via Morogoro Road. The Slipway is a popular shopping center in Oyster Bay. (Slipway Rd., +255-022-2600893, +255-0713888301; www.slipway.net). It is located on the shores of Msasani Bay, between the yacht club and the Double Tree Hilton hotel - you can have lunch, buy souvenirs and books. There is also a craft market there on weekends. (from 9.00 to 17.00).

The most famous markets are located in the center of Dar es Salaam. The Kivukoni fish market is not inferior in color to the large Kariaku market (Kariakoo Market) in the district of the same name in the western part of the city. Small but exotic food bazaar of Uhindini (Uhindini Market) can be found in the center on Zanaki Street (Zanaki St.).

Colorful two-dimensional pictures of tinga-tinga are considered a major Tanzanian cultural brand. They are named after the name of their creator, Edward Side Tingating, who lived in the mid-20th century. in the Oyster Bay area in northern Dar es Salaam. There is also main center selling tinga-tinga, which has become a folk art: many artist stalls line the side streets around the Haile Selassie Road junction (Haile Selassie Rd.) and Guba Road (Ghuba Rd.). Particularly famous is the Tinga Tinga Center in the Morogoro Stores shopping center. (Haile Selassie Rd.). Carved wood and wickerwork are sold at the Mwenge Carvers' Market in the western suburb of Mwenge (approx. 6 km from the center, via Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road and New Bagamoyo Road).

In the center of Dar es Salaam, some souvenirs can be found walking along Zamora Avenue from the Askari Monument towards St. Joseph's Cathedral.

Food and drink

In the most affordable establishments in Dar es Salaam, a meal costs about Sh5,000. There is a fast food chain Subway (sandwiches 3500-6000 sh., coffee/tea 2000 sh., water and drinks 2500-3000 sh.).

How to get there and get around

International Airport Julius Nyerere (for inquiries +255-022-2844095 (terminal 1) and +255-022-2844212 (terminal 2); www.taa.go.tz). 10 km from the city center, connected by bus line (150 sh.) and taxi (about Sh10,000, negotiable). Major carriers fly to Dar es Salaam: British Airways, KLM, Turkish Airlines and Gulf airlines. From Africa - Air Uganda (Kampala),RwandAir (Kigali) Kenya Airways (Nairobi) Ethiopian Airlines (Addis Ababa) South African Airways (Johannesburg). International and scheduled domestic routes are served by Terminal 2, including numerous flights from popular local carriers Precision Air and ZanAir.

Central line railway station (corner of Railway St. and Sokoine Dr., www.trctz.com) located in the western part of the central embankment. Serves trains running between Dar es Salaam, Tabora (Tabora) and Mwanza (Mwanza). From the TAZARA train station (5 km southwest of Central Station) you can go to the southern regions of the country and to Zambia.

Main bus station Ubungo (Ubungo Bass Stand) accepts flights from all over Tanzania, as well as neighboring Kenyan Mombasa. The bus station is located on Morogoro Road (Morogoro Rd.) in the western part of the city, about 8 km from the center. A taxi costs approximately Sh10,000.

The pier for passenger ferries connecting Dar es Salaam with Zanzibar and Pemba is located on the main promenade (landmark - the spire of St. Joseph's Cathedral). The cost of ferry travel between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar depends on the speed of the ship: the slower the cheaper. To the popular carrier Azam Marine (daily flights at 7.00, 9.30, 12.30 and 15.45, $35/40 depending on class) belongs to a glass pavilion with an appropriate inscription. Another famous Flying Horse company (daily 7.00, 9.30, 12.00 and 15.30, $20) occupies a simpler booth.

You can get around the city by motorcycle taxi (they are called boda-boda)- usually a trip around the city costs around 2000 sh. An auto-rickshaw costs about the same or a little more. A regular taxi within the center of Dar es Salaam costs from Sh5,000.

Experts taught me, they say, don’t waste time on Dar es Salaam, and when you arrive in Tanzania, immediately go to Zanzibar or Arusha. But the more they dared me from the Gift, the more I wanted to get there. The reason for everything is natural stubbornness and reluctance to blindly follow the standard tourist routes. After all, Tanzania is not only about safari and Kilimanjaro. This big country with an extremely difficult fate and a salad of peoples and confessions. It is enough to look at the statistics about Tanzania to see how unusual everything is there: 35% of Christians belonging to almost all movements, 40% of Muslims in the form of descendants of Arabs and Indo-Pakistanis, 25% of followers of traditional African beliefs. And many people probably remember such a person as Julius Nyerere - the most odious leader of Tanzania, a great friend of the USSR and a fighter against imperialism. Remember?

So, given the limited time and the need to soon move further to neighboring Zambia, I had to completely abandon visiting Zanzibar. Do you think I regret this? Not at all. So, Dar greets you with humid heat of 40 degrees, hitting all your senses at once. You're just walking to passport control, but trickles of sweat are already rolling down your back. Welcome to the tropics!

On approach to Dar es Salaam, the city is clearly visible on the left

At passport control there is a small, but still lovely African chaos. People rush around in search of numerous forms: a form about their health status, a visa application form, a migration card. One or the other is missing. After completing this quest for half an hour, you go to pay for a visa upon arrival. There are no rules or tariffs anywhere, and the smiling black and blue officer is free to name almost any amount. He told the Swedes standing in front of us a strange amount of $160 for three. What it is? If one visa costs 50, then 3 visas cost 150. Did you decide to tip ten? Why not, whites have been colonizing Africa for centuries, why wouldn't the African immigration officer charge you a tenner? This trick doesn’t work with me; moreover, I insist on a transit visa for $30, and not a regular one for $50. The officer first states that there are no transit visas, then he says that to obtain one you must show tickets to the country of destination (I show a ticket to Zambia), and only after that he accepts the documents. A transit visa is valid for 14 days, and this is certainly enough!

City of Peace

This is exactly how the name Dara is translated from Arabic. It’s an amazing thing - I know at least two cities in the world that bear the name “City of Peace”, Jerusalem and Dar es Salaam, and nowhere has there been genuine peace since my birth. What kind of evil irony is this? Fortunately for Dar, the violence stopped quite a long time ago, although it is obvious that new outbreaks of unrest are a matter of time. The origins of the conflict lie in the country's colonial past and the traditional enmity of African Christians with Muslims. It was the followers of Mohammedanism who were the most cruel slave traders, outdoing even the Europeans in this. And it was Muslims who, for the most part, were soldiers and caretakers during the British colonial past.

The city is young, less than 150 years old. Until 1866, these places were ruled by Arab sultans, who were later ousted by the Germans, who in turn were kicked out by the British. Immediately after the Europeans left in 1961, violence reigned throughout Tanzania: Muslims carried out massacres of infidels in Zanzibar, and Christians responded in kind on the mainland. This whole situation reached its apogee in 1967, when the number of killed Christians in Zanzibar reached several tens of thousands, and the survivors fled to the mainland by canoes and boats. Traces of violence are still felt today in the demographics of this picturesque island- more than 99.5% of its population are Muslims. In the 50s of the 20th century, at least a third were Christians. In parallel, similar ethnic cleansing took place against Muslims in central Tanzania, where there are very few Muslims to this day.

Frankly, I didn’t know Mr. Nyerere personally, but I flew to the airport named after this gentleman

You can criticize Julius Nyerere for his tender feelings for Brezhnev, and then for the teachings of Mao Jiudong, but the fact remains that he managed to extinguish the bloody conflict that was brewing in Tanzania. Albeit at the cost of a false course towards the ideas of socialism. As a result, Nyerere brought the country to complete financial collapse, killed agriculture by trying to plant collective farms, took over land from white farmers, and so on. As a result, he got involved in a war with neighboring Uganda, where the mad sergeant of the British army, a communist, a Muslim fundamentalist (and this in predominantly Christian Uganda!) and... the cannibal Idi Amin Dada ruled. However, this is a completely different story. Nyerere himself ruled the country for almost 25 years, and left power only in 1985. Fortunately for Tanzania.

Dar es Salaam

In my opinion, this is one of the most alive and interesting cities Africa. Of course, this is not Cairo or Johannesburg. But this is a metropolis of 5 million people on the shores of the Indian Ocean, where dozens of nations live side by side, where there is a rich cultural and musical life, where everything is in full swing at any time of the day. There are also very pretty girls here, not much inferior in beauty to the Ethiopians, whom I consider the greatest beauties of the dark continent. This is a city of smiles and quite sincere interest in you, and usually without any cunning intent.

Dar has also preserved the most interesting buildings of the colonial era - for some reason not a single popular guidebook writes about this, be it Lonely Planet or Bradt. There are a lot of beautiful temples of all religions: Buddhist pagodas, Muslim mosques, cathedrals and Hindu palaces.

I must say that the first impression of Dar was a small accident that occurred at the moment when my fellow traveler was photographing the street. She pulled the trigger a second after the Bajaj (three-wheeler taxi) collided with the car. This is the third Bajaj accident that has happened before my eyes. The previous two were in India and Indonesia, respectively. Moreover, in the last case, in Indonesia, I was the “happy” passenger of an overturned car. Wow, beauty!

There was a strong bang-h-h-h, and now two black men were screaming all over the street: one rubbing his bruised elbow, and the other in despair assessing the broken side mirror and scratches on the door of his almost new Toyota. Colorful picture.

Below is a selection of photographs from Dar

Entertaining stories and tips on how to stay with your own

Dar is a fairly safe city. By African standards, of course. But don’t forget that there is crime, and your white face can be seen hundreds of meters away. For many, white equals rich. In other words, all those who trade in robbery and fraud see you from afar. I won’t say that the risk of becoming a victim of troubles here is greater than, say, in Moscow. It’s just that in the latter case, you are part of a hurrying crowd, and you can’t tell whether you have money or not. Being white in a large African city is tantamount to walking around Moscow with a sign held high: “My pockets are full of cash!”, or “I still don’t understand where I ended up, teach me a lesson in caution!”, or “Comrade policeman, I don’t have capital registration.” . Would you dare to walk along the Square of Three Stations with such signs? No? Same thing.

I read in guidebooks about the miracles that happen when ferries depart to the island of Zanzibar, located 80 km to the northeast. And he knew that entire armies of “hustlers” (from English - to bother, pester, irritate) were tracking down naive tourists on the approach to the port and in the center of Dar. As soon as your white face lights up within a kilometer radius from the port, a black guy will materialize next to you, who will run next to you and say “Hello! Do you need a ticket to Zanzibar? Or safari to Arusha?” Seeing your reluctance to communicate, he is not at all discouraged, and immediately lays out to you a whole range of things that he thinks are fascinating: would you like to sell your shoes, buy a figurine in a souvenir shop. The last trump card is to offer you the best hotel in the world at the cheapest price. But you are shot sparrows, aren’t you? Are you exhausted by Egypt, don’t you fall for such naive tricks? That's fine!

Dar es Salaam Passenger Port. The booths on the right sell ferry tickets to Zanzibar and Pemba.Hundreds of crooks live here, with whom you will inevitably have to communicate.

But many fall for scammers. And they manage to let themselves be carried away into a side alley, where in an incomprehensible sharashka they will sell you a ticket to Zanzibar for $100, at a normal price of $30-40. Other options are to overpay for a hotel, overpay for souvenirs, or let yourself be promoted on a “city tour” that is absolutely unnecessary for you. I don’t want to scare you, but I’ll add this option - in a side alley you can simply be robbed. As happened to my good friend a year earlier - a knife to the side, and deft hands will take everything from your passport to your camera out of your pockets.

Chaos at the entrance to the port's passenger terminal

Where to eat?

Not a trivial question at all. Let’s say that your plans do not include getting poisoned, or even worse, contracting hepatitis. Then you need to be extremely careful when choosing places to eat. The fact is that not everything that is expensive is good, just as not everything that is cheap is bad. For example, you see a more or less civil restaurant where respectable white men and women dine. They look important, and they pay for a meal as much as a Tanzanian earns in a month. But before you join the dining tourists, I suggest you take a sneak peek at what’s going on in the restaurant’s backyard -

This is where the food is prepared

This is where they wash your dishes

I don’t want to say anything bad about the delicious food, or suspect the aunties of not washing the dishes thoroughly. But something doesn't inspire confidence in me. I'm guessing you do too, don't you? One way or another, we found a great place to eat - university canteens, which are available in any university. The Economic College, which is located exactly in the city center, was no exception, and we chose it for ourselves, as it combines cleanliness, cheapness and color -

College building

Students preparing for exams in the college courtyard

Student canteen. First, you go to the cashier, where you punch out the check. Then you go to this distribution line

A hefty portion of rice with chicken and salads will cost one (1) dollar. Freshly squeezed juice (not recommended for those who suffer from weak intestines) will cost another $0.5. Frankly, I am usually careful with fruits, remembering a couple of departures that happened to me in India. But here everything was great. It is likely that the student canteen is still not a street eatery, and there is some control. And the second important aspect is that the food is prepared on the fly and does not have time to spoil.

Overnight

The choice is clearly not up to the level big metropolis. There are few hotels, and there is practically no average price level. Either very expensive chain giants like Holiday Inn and Sheraton, where rooms start at $150, or very miserable shacks for $5-10. You know, I’m far from a prude, but two things confused me in this case:

1. Due to the exceptionally hot climate, it will be extremely difficult for you without air conditioning, because the temperature, even at night, rarely drops below 28-30 degrees with almost absolute humidity. All hotels with air conditioning are several orders of magnitude more expensive than without it.

2. If you open the window, mosquitoes will fly in with a high probability of contracting malaria. Thus, if you do not have air conditioning, you will have to close the windows tightly and turn on the fan. What to say? This feels like torture, and you definitely won’t get normal sleep.

Our room at the Econo Lodge

As a result, having visited about 6-7 mid-level hotels, and wondering where prices like 70-80 dollars come from for a more than modest room with an ancient rattling air conditioner and a non-working TV (and why do you need it?), we found the Econo Lodge hotel , where good rooms with air conditioning, a balcony, and even breakfast cost $30 for two. Moreover, it is also the very center of the city, the corner of Banda and Libya streets. They even have a website, although I don’t know how often the information is updated there.

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