Tatiana Solomatina

Mysterious and harsh Shantar Islands

Good afternoon friends! I continue publishing about the amazing corners of the Far North of Russia. I am attracted to these remote, rugged, non-mass tourist destinations.

If you are an extreme tourist at heart, a lover of throwing yourself into the unknown and untrodden, comparable to flying to other planets, if you have a seething thirst for primitive happiness from encounters with corners of nature of a cool nature, but full of treasures of the Earth, if traveling around your country attracts you more, than overseas beauties, the mysterious Shantar Islands will definitely interest you. These are the ones we will talk about today.

There will be no tourist information here, if fate allows me to ever visit there, I will definitely give you all the addresses and passwords. But for now this is just a dream, I’ll tell you about the nature and life of this distant land.

The Shantar Islands are part of the Tuguro-Chumikansky region Khabarovsk Territory. This is an archipelago of 15 islands in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk (see on the map), located at the edge of the Russian world, between Sakhalin and the mainland. Islands with a truly Russian soul, mysterious, unpredictable, violent, unapproachable. And just as sacrificial.

Island holidays are especially romantic. But getting here is not easy. The dash to the Shantar Islands is like a pioneering expedition, an action adventure. Even on the way to the islands, the road is as long as to Mars, and includes all types of transport: land, air, sea, remaining one of the most expensive in the region and requiring space equipment. The cost of tours here is extremely high (from 150,000 rubles).

Shantarctica

The Shantar Islands are protected according to all the canons of military strategy. For ten months of the year there is a blockage at sea in the form of ice blocks that do not melt even in summer: the Sea of ​​Okhotsk is no warmer than the polar ones. And the Shantar corner, due to the winds and circular current, receives ice from all over the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. Without an access code, which is the mercy of the islands and Lady Luck, there is always a risk of finding yourself in white captivity in the Shantar “wilderness.”

“And I’m going, and I’m going after the fog...”

Another trap is fogs, business card and a sophisticated protective agent of the Shantar Islands. Their thick “milk” spills out suddenly, depriving them of vision. Without GPS, you risk getting stuck among the waves, bumping into a kekur, or running into underwater “Dragon Teeth.” The winds drive the white monster with such force that it looks like an animated substance from horror films. The nebula of the Shantar Islands gives rise to many not devoid of plausibility tales about mirages and islands of the “flying Dutchmen”.

Buyany Islands

A disaster for sea crossings is the tidal breathing of the islands. The speed of water flow on the Shantar coast is one of the highest in the world's oceans, 15 km/h. A wave of 5–8 m turns the island rivers back, forms giant whirlpools, boiling cauldrons, and knocks down the magnetic field (Opasny Strait, Cape Severny, Kamni Diomede Island and everywhere). Travel agency yachts look suspiciously like arks. And the sign of Shantar is that dead driftwood along the shores looks like the wreckage of a shipwreck.

And it turns out that this taiga region can only be reached by helicopter. But the unpredictable nature of the Shantar Islands can disrupt all your plans and deadlines with storms, rain like a barrel, and hurricane-force winds. So if you ever get to this point, “ Bermuda triangle”, then you may get stuck in non-flying captivity. Tour operators reserve extra days and advise not to plan anything close to the trip.

Proud and unconquered

The inaccessibility of the archipelago makes it a truly uninhabited and wild eco-universe just 100 km from the mainland. Many times people tried to subjugate and settle the Shantar Islands. But even the enthusiasm of the Soviet era was powerless. The airspace around the bastion is pierced only by Morse code call signs from the reference weather station with the status of TDS (hard to reach). Its staff consists of 3-4 Robinsons, who live here constantly, almost in a state of siege. Cargo delivery by helicopter 2 times a year.

Disservice

There is one ruler here - the bear (brown, grizzly and “Shantar panda”). Neighborhood with the owner in his house is a yellow danger level. More often, the animal treats the laws of hospitality with understanding, but can also neglect them. The group is accompanied by 3-4 instructors with weapons. But nowhere without a bear! Bear trails are “cultural” guides through the Shantar “jungle”. And extreme photography with club-footed models and a free circus with teddy bear fishing are part of the local entertainment service industry.

There is no need to explain that the conquest of the Shantar Islands with their abnormal weather, lack of comfort of civilization and constant force majeure requires the qualities of a Stoic, Spartan and Tibetan monk.

You may ask: what is all this for? What attracts you here and never lets you forget the islands? Yes, all this extremeness is on the verge of a foul, intriguing the soul of any Russian. But the Shantaras must protect so threateningly some unprecedented wealth. There is something to look at with delight here!

Shantar secret materials

The pristine beauty of these places is not immediately revealed to the traveler. To get to know them, the scientist G. Roslyakov, a zealous romantic of the islands, believed, you need to live on each for a year. You will come here in another summer (July-August) and you will see nothing except the signs of spring barely awakening from the winter torpor. The mainland is sweltering in the heat, and here it snows in summer.

And in a year, the Shantar Islands will suddenly boast of their hidden and essentially inexplicable riches. Behind the myth of inaccessibility will appear a fragile, vulnerable world in the fullness of its blossoming. You will be delighted by the gentle, even hot sun in the cold ocean wind, a riot of herbs and flowers next to the snow floes, an abundance of berries, and mushroom rains. It’s as if, like in Andersen’s fairy tale about 12 months, all seasons will arrive in Shantary.

“Floating” encyclopedia

The marine life is fascinating in its scale: spotted spotted seals, heavy sea lions, whiskered bearded seals - sea hares, ringed hawksbills, striped lionfish. Almost the entire Red Book ichthyofauna is frolicking in the sea. Killer whales, beluga whales, dolphins, porpoises, and sperm whales plunge you into wild delight with their appearance. The fin whale, northern swimmer, humpback, southern, polar and 130-ton blue whales are shown.

Historically, the Shantar Islands are a grandiose pier and maternity hospital for sea giants: in the 19th century, up to 800 individuals were counted in the water area in 4 hours. And now the unforgettable sight of a relict gray whale, 30 million years old, feeding on bottom pastures just 20 m from the shore (Konstantin and Academy bays). Despite the arctic cold, the bottom around the islands is teeming with life, like reefs south seas: mollusks, sponges, jellyfish, echinoderms, crustaceans, thickets of rare angustata kelp.

In the sky “there’s nowhere for the apple to fall”

You can go deaf from the hubbub of 240 species of birds near bird colonies (Utichii, Yuzhny Island). The rocks explode with a white cloud of thousands of flying puffins, gulls, guillemots, cormorants, and mossels. The main endemic and emblem of the region - the Pacific eagle, a descendant of dinosaurs with a 3-meter wingspan, found an ideal refuge on the Shantar Islands (O. M. Shantar, Belichiy). Here you will also find bird “rarities” that are heavenly in their beauty: black stork, osprey, fish eagle owl, Okhotsk snail, Aleutian tern, mountain snipe, peregrine falcon.

General of the Fish Troops

And Shantar fishing is a separate fantastic story. The richness of the rivers (B. Anuar, Yakshina, Srednyaya) and lakes (Bolshoye, Karpino) is off the charts with the number of species (35) of delicious fish with fighting qualities: chum salmon, linka, pink salmon, rudd, char, kunja. But for the legendary mykiss, a rare khaki-colored fish with a red stripe, only sports phishing: catch and release. Its habitat on the planet is too narrow: Alaska - r. Olenya, B. Shantar.

Open air laboratory

On capes Krasny, Bely, Mramorny, Raduzhny, o. In Utyachiy you will see the geological treasury of the Shantar Islands. The alchemist nature has conjured here for centuries to create the most beautiful rocks: marble, pink limestone, malachite, multi-colored jasper in especially large sizes. Where can you see entire rocks made of semi-precious stones and scatterings of gems instead of sand on the sea coast? These storerooms of the Mistress of the Copper Mountain, opened for public viewing, delight both scientists and tourists.

Kingdom of stone exotics

The Shantar Islands are a “Klondike” of stone oddities of nature, its thousand-year-old sculpting art. Kekurs, outcrops, rocks convey images so accurately that it is not difficult to come up with names for these creations: Eagle, Three Brothers, Lion Stone. Capes, rock palaces and enfilades, fjords and inaccessible cliffs amaze with their gloomy alien beauty from fantasy films (Prokofiev Island, Arka Island). Shantar's cinematic destiny is yet to come!

“All covered with greenery, absolutely all”

And yet, in this oasis among the ice, green color dominates on a thin layer of frozen soil, on rocky ground. The lush taiga is adjacent to the original flora and subarctic: spills of mosses, a riot of wild rosemary and elfin trees. Continental plants have the charm of naturalness and “Gulliverian” sizes: hogweed, groundsel, meadowsweet. This is the kingdom of relict and medicinal plants, the coat of arms of which features the endemic golden root.

Flower beds of irises and lilies are measured in fields. Plantations measure berry wealth: blueberries, cloudberries, crowberries, cranberries the size of cherries. The rosehip is the size of a ranetka. And around the spring purity there is air and meditative silence. You feel alone with the entire Universe. These uninhabited islands– a paradise for ecotourism lovers. To all who hold the right of the Shantar Islands to life dear to their hearts.

To be or not to be?

Many times this land was tortured, and the question arose: to be Shantaram or not to be? Since the 18th century, the islands have been trampled by their own and others' poachers' boots and tormented by fires. The archipelago was a slaughterhouse and a crematorium for whale blubber. Up to 200 ships from all over the world moored in the waters for predatory purposes. Millions of dollars worth of natural resources were exported from here. The islands keep traces of this “Mamaev” invasion (Yakshina and Abrek bays) and “lick” new wounds. Scientists are worried. I wish I had time to see the Shantar Islands!

As a consolation to those living

The islands have come a long way in the minds of officials to the status of a state-protected National Park. This happened around 2014. The future is laid on the stones of the past. Enthusiasts led by the legendary F. Konyukhov erected a chapel and memorial (Pankova Bay) in memory of those who spared no labor and heroism for the sake of the life of the islands. As an act of returning the Shantar Islands under the auspices of Russia in the status of a territory of geographical patriotism.

When tomorrow comes...

Today, a trip to the Shantar Islands is not available to many. And it’s not just the high cost of such a trip. This is truly a wild and harsh region. There is no usual civilization here. Perhaps she will never come here. Although lately it's tourist destination trying to develop.

I suggest you watch the Special Report “Shantar Trails” from the second channel Russia 2:

The Shantar Islands became a national park in 2013. And now they are preparing to welcome the inexperienced tourist. The goal of our expedition to the archipelago is to put an end to the exploration of local trails and create new tourist routes.

Transforming the archipelago into one of best places Island holidays in Russia still exist on paper. But I believe that according to the project we will observe live “sensations” here wildlife from sites for photo and video filming. Travel along eco-friendly trails. Study the wisdom and beauty of geology as presented by scientists. Go down to underwater treasures in diving groups. Skirting the islands cruise ships. And turn into romantics, crazy with love for this pile of precious stones on the edge of the ocean, which, like a humming sea shell, will always call to you. The dream has a pseudonym Shantar Islands!

Perhaps you are one of those lucky ones who witnessed firsthand the beauty and power of this corner of the planet, share information, tell us how you managed to organize such a difficult trip, what feelings you experienced on this harsh land. I will definitely publish your report in the “Readers’ Travels” section, you will find the details.

Leave comments, reader response is very important to me. Subscribe to blog updates, publications about Lake Baikal and Kamchatka will soon be published, do not miss the most interesting things. With this I say goodbye to you, until we meet again.

Tatiana Solomatina

Day 1 Moving to Briakan

At night you will move to the village of Briakan on a large comfortable bus (45 seats). 400 km of the road to Komsomolsk is on asphalt, and then 300 km along the BAM is on a dirt road. Travel time is 12-14 hours.

Day 2 Helicopter transfer to the Ongachan base

By helicopter you will go to the Ongachan base (1.5 hours). Ongachan Bay is located on the Tugur Peninsula. Already here you can practice shooting picturesque landscapes - the base is located next to big lake and the river. Red fish come into the river to spawn, and there are whales and killer whales in the bay. If you're lucky, you'll be able to photograph bears and foxes in their natural environment. The bay is closed from the winds, so it is quiet here. The nearest islands are 5 minutes by boat. Here you will find relaxation and a festive dinner in the evening.

Day 3 Nasha Bay

You will go to the bay of the Big Shantar Island. Along the way you will stop at the most picturesque places to photograph amazingly beautiful landscapes. Driving along the shores of the islands, you can see bears that have come to the shore to fish. Mark Podrabinek will tell you from which angles it is best to photograph animals.

Day 4 Weather station on Big Shantar Island

On this day you will meet the only inhabitants of the island: only four people keep records of the weather and transmit data. And then go to Cape Wrangel. This is a place where there is a high chance of seeing whales. Giants jump out of the water very briefly, most often showing only their tail. You will learn to catch the right moment to shoot.

It is convenient to take sunrise and sunset photography here. To learn how to photograph evening colors, you will stay on the cape until dark, and then spend the night in tents.

Day 5 Utichy Island

The length of the island is about 2.5 km, the width does not exceed 500 m. The largest colonies of spectacled guillemot in the archipelago are located here. In the 90s, 17,500 pairs nested on Utichye. You will photograph bird colonies, as well as seal and seal rookeries.

In the evening, Mark Podrabinek will share the skill of sunset photography, after which you will spend the night in tents on the island.

Day 6 Bay of the Tugur Peninsula

The peninsula is located on west coast Sea of ​​Okhotsk, in the Shantar Sea. It separates the Tugursky Bay (in the west) and the Ulbansky and Academy Bays (in the east). On this day you will photograph the extraordinary mountainous terrain of the peninsula. In the evening, Mark Podrabinek will sort out your mistakes with you and give you recommendations for shooting.

Day 7 Belichiy and Bird Islands

First you will visit Belichiy Island. Its area is about 70 km², length is 20 km, width varies from 1.5 to 7 km. It is separated from the mainland by the Lindholm Strait, from neighboring island Small Shantar - Opasny Strait. The island is covered with larch forest. You will have a beautiful photograph of green areas.

Then go to Bird Island. It is small - 2.5 km long and 1.5 km wide. The shore is littered with driftwood, and along it there are beautiful boulders. The decoration of the island is a snowfield. Against the backdrop of these picturesque landscapes, you will photograph large colonies of spectacled guillemot and other birds.

The Shantar Islands are one of the few places not subject to human activity.

Shantar consists of 15 islands - Bolshoy Shantar, Feklistova, Maly Shantar, Belichiy, Bear, Bird, Utichy, Sugar Loaf, Kusova, Prokofieva, Sivuchi Kameni, Sukhotina, Northern, Middle, Southern and Diomede Stones. total area The archipelago is about 2500 sq. km. Mysterious islands they do not favor guests; only experienced fishermen and trained travelers decide to visit lost corner nature. The coastal waters are frozen for 10 months of the year, icebergs slowly float past the shores, the Shantars themselves are constantly shrouded in fog, which adds even more mystery, sometimes strong storms occur, as a reminder that the islands will never belong to man.

A trip to the Shantar Islands is a great opportunity to immerse yourself in the world of wild nature, spend unforgettable vacation far from civilization.

Not many survive in the harsh climate, so the islands are inhabited only by bears, foxes and northern birds, for which this area is a real fishing paradise, because in the reservoirs and rivers there are great amount fish. Some shores are favored by seals, who set up their rookeries there; whales and killer whales are often found off the coast. Local animals are not particularly afraid of people, and they are not inclined to attack, because they always walk around well-fed. Some foxes willingly approach a person and allow themselves to be fed from their hands. More than 200 species of birds nest on the islands, large concentrations of which are observed on the shores.

Despite the harsh climate, the beauty of the Shantar Islands is a source of great delight. Stunning landscapes, sea giants swimming off the coast, freely roaming bears, bizarrely shaped rocks, fast rivers and serene lakes, numerous waterfalls will remain in your memory for a lifetime.
The rocks, which attract attention with their unusual color, are of great interest. Due to the emergence of marble, jasper and other rocks to the surface, the rocks acquire pink, red, and green colors.

There are no settlements on the islands, people do not live here, with the exception of a few weather station workers. The harsh climate forced people to move to areas with more favorable living conditions. The inaccessibility of the islands also had a significant impact on people; to get to them they would have to travel a long way.

The best option is to purchase a tour, the route of which may vary. Many travel companies provide tours to the Shantar Islands, so purchasing a tour is not particularly difficult. The main problem may be large quantities Money. The journey is quite dangerous, given the changeable weather, wild bears, difficulties with transportation, independent travel risky. The tour program is designed in such a way that the traveler can see as many interesting places as possible and enjoy the holiday to the fullest. Therefore, guides who know interesting places and rangers who scare away bears will be able to ensure safe recreation.

Most expeditions to the Shantar Islands are carried out for the purpose of fishing, because the abundance of fish is the dream of any fisherman. Local rivers are home to pink salmon, rudd, malma, salmon, char, mykiss and other species of fish. Sometimes you can catch fish with your bare hands. Fishing is done on a catch-and-release basis because the catch can be so large that there is nowhere to put the fish. A huge number of berries and mushrooms grow in the local forests, so by choosing the right time for travel, no traveler will remain hungry.

The cost of tours is high, up to 750,000 rubles (for a group of 7 people), the cost of tours usually includes transportation to the islands and back, rental of trays for fishing and moving from one island to another, camp equipment, insurance, first aid kit, food, and accompanying instructors.

The tour program includes fishing, watching whales and killer whales, visiting islands where numerous birds nest, hiking to seal rookeries, and observing the life of wild bears.

Overnight stays are organized on the shore, in tents. You only need to take with you warm clothes, a sleeping bag, a raincoat and rubber boots, necessary medications, personal hygiene products, a camera and a video camera.

It is better to plan a trip to the Shantar Islands for the period from the second half of July to mid-September; it is during this period that the weather becomes more or less clear and sunny. But even in August the weather is unpredictable, the sun can be replaced by rain.

How to get there

Russia, Khabarovsk Territory, Shantar Islands.

To get to the Shantar Islands, you first need to get to Khabarovsk, from there by bus to the village of Briakan, from the village you need to take a helicopter flight to the islands.

Some travelers choose a longer and more difficult route, which starts from Khabarovsk, from where you need to take a bus to Komsomolsk-on-Amur, from there by bus river transport to Nikolaevsk-on-Amur. From Nikolaevsk-on-Amur you need to get by shuttle bus to the village of Mnogovershinny, then by truck to the coast, Reineke Bay and from there by catamaran or boat (brought with you) to the Shantar Islands. The beauty of this route is the lack of normal overnight accommodation and the need to negotiate with local residents on transport and transportation of necessary equipment and equipment.

Basically, travelers purchase various tours to the islands, which include delivery to Shantary. This method of travel is the easiest and safest.

Day 1 Khabarovsk - Briakan

The group meeting will take place at 16:00. After this, you will have an evening and night transfer to the village of Briakan (12-14 hours on the road). You will travel in a comfortable tourist bus— a group of 15-16 people is provided with a bus with 45 seats.

The path will pass through the city of Komsomolsk-on-Amur. Next, a gravel road will begin, which runs along the famous Baikal-Amur Mainline.

Day 2 Helicopter transfer to the Ongachan base

You will have breakfast in Briacane. If the weather is good, take a helicopter to Ongachan Bay (1.5 hours). Accommodate at the base and have lunch.

In case of unfavorable weather in Ongachan Bay, flights to alternative sites are possible. There, speed boats will meet you and take you to the base.

Ongachan Bay is located on the Tugur Peninsula. Is waiting for you big lake with a flowing river into which red fish come to spawn. There is also a bay where there are whales and killer whales.

If you have enough time, you will go on a short excursion around the southern Sea of ​​Okhotsk. Take a walk along the coast or climb observation deck, where you can watch whales. And also watch the first sunset - they are especially beautiful here.

Day 3 Maly Shantar Island and Abrek Bay

On this day you will go to Abrek Bay, which is located on the island of Maly Shantar. Hundreds of seals live here, hiding in the bay from carnivorous killer whales. The low water level does not allow them to hunt animals, and the seals feel completely safe.

Today you will spend the night at the Ongachan base.

Day 4 Big Shantar Island

Today you will visit the island of Big Shantar. This is the largest and longest island of the archipelago. The only marine weather station is located here - on it all year round Only 4 people work and live.

You will go to the mouth of the island's river and visit the remains of a 19th century whaling base. You will learn how American whalers caught whales, made oil from their blubber, and used whalebone.

You will also visit Cape Raduzhny, one of the most striking geological sites of the archipelago. There are huge rocks made of jasper. Their color varies from bright red to green.

By the end of the day you will approach Feklistov Island, where you will set up a field camp. Have dinner at big tent and spend the night in tents.

Day 5 Feklistov Island and Utichii

On this day you will see how salmon rise up the Medvezhya River to spawn.

After lunch, you will break camp and begin moving towards the Ongachan base. Along the way, visit a natural monument - Arku Island.

Approaching Utichy Island, you will see thousands of birds that nest here. They are not at all afraid of humans. You will also admire the kekurs - bizarrely shaped sea cliffs.

The day will end at the base in Ongachan Bay. You will have dinner, rest and relax in a hot sauna.

Day 6 Wrangel Bay

Today you will take a boat to Wrangel Bay (2 hours). Along the way you will see Belichiy, Sredniy and Yuzhny islands. See bird colonies and small waterfalls.

Upon arrival, you will be accommodated at the base in a cozy bay. For beauty and pure sand beach tourists nicknamed it “Magic Bay.” This is where you will see rare bowhead whales.

Day 7 Whale watching

On this day you will watch bowhead whales.

They live in the cold waters of the Northern Hemisphere; the southernmost herd of this cetacean species is found in the Sea of ​​​​Okhotsk. These are the only representatives of baleen whales that spend their entire lives in polar waters. Due to their harsh habitat, observing bowhead whales is usually difficult or impossible. But on Shantar you will see them very close. And you can even approach them on rowing boats or SUP boards.

Also today you can go sea fishing, walk along the coast and get acquainted with the bizarre geology of Cape Wrangel.

Day 8 Return to Ongachan base

You will watch whales until lunch and then make the trek to Ongachan Bay. Along the way, you may meet killer whales. In the open sea you will see dozens of birds gathering in flocks and preparing for migration.

Part the route will pass along the Lindholm Strait. It is named after one of the pioneers of Russian whaling in the Far East.

If the weather is good, admire the sunset on the shore. A warm blanket and a mug of tea made from local herbs will make the evening even more enjoyable. A little later you will sit by the fire and listen to stories about the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and stories about pioneers.

Day 9 Reserve day or Dragon Rocks

This day is provided in case of bad weather during the program.

If the weather is good and there are no changes to the program, you will head to the Dragon Rocks. Moving along the sea south coast Sea of ​​Okhotsk, you will reach the northern tip of the Tugur Peninsula. Here, dozens of small waterfalls fall straight into the sea, and from the shore you can see bizarrely shaped kekurs. Legends say that dragons used to live here.

In the evening, enjoy a festive dinner with freshly caught fish and seafood delicacies.

Day 10 Departure from Ongachan base

Today you will fly by helicopter to the village of Briakan, from where you will travel to Khabarovsk.

The Shantar Islands are a bear paradise, where clumsy bears live in freedom, because hunting them is prohibited here. But it is also a paradise for a geologist: along the shores of the islands, rocks painted in the most unexpected colors are located in a picturesque disorder: pink, red, green, white...
This is not a joke of nature, but layers of jasper, marble and other rocks coming to the surface.
The word “Shantar” translated from the language of the Nivkh people means “island”, and it is precisely this that is included in the name invented by the discoverers of the archipelago.

The Shantar archipelago consists of one and a half dozen islands of various sizes, clustered near the mainland in the Sea of ​​​​Okhotsk. The islands are located right at the entrance to Udskaya Bay, Tugur Bay and Academy Bay and are separated from the mainland by the Lindholm Strait and the Shantar Sea.
The relief of the islands is very uneven and mountainous. Between the mountains there were valleys of small rivers, and in the lowlands along the banks of the rivers there were swamps: there was simply nowhere for water to seep, under a small layer of soil there were hard rocks and granite.

The shores of the islands are high and rocky, plunging steeply into the sea. The sea around the islands is full of huge underwater rocks that pose a great danger to ships. It’s as if nature deliberately took care to make the islands as inaccessible as possible: there are no convenient harbors here, with the exception of Yakshin Bay on Bolshoi Shantar and Lebyazhya Bay on Fekpistov Island.
Sailing in the area of ​​the Shantar archipelago is dangerous; ships that do not have radars are not recommended to sail here. The speed of currents in these parts can reach eight knots, that is, about 15 km/h.
From October to June, the Udskaya Bay is covered with ice, the water around the Shantar Islands freezes, and they practically merge with the mainland for most of the year.
The islands of Maly Shantar and Belichiy are separated by a narrow strait; navigation here is risky, for which the strait is called Dangerous.
The indigenous Nivkh people were the first to begin to develop the islands. Since there are relatively few islands in this place off the coast of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, the Nivkhs called them “shantar”, which translated from their language simply means “island”.
In 1639, the Cossacks of Ivan Moskvitin, Vasily Poyarkov and Ivan Nagiba reached the islands.
They used a word from the Nivkh language, calling them Shantar, that is, “ island islands" However, for the first time the name Shantar appeared on geographical map, compiled in 1710. Since the islands have not only commercial value, but also border value, Emperor Peter II in 1728 ordered: “Russian and foreign hunters should be released to the Shantar Islands for hunting, so that they are reliably informed what kind of people are on those islands live."
Titles geographical objects on the islands were given by local hunters and fishermen and reflect the appearance of the object: on Feklistov Island - Capes Rogaty, Pokaty, Bely, Primetnaya Skala, Krasny, on Maly Shantar Island - Cape Gorbaty. And Sugar Loaf Island received its name for its obvious similarity to the mentioned product. Rich animal world archipelago is captured in the names of the islands Belichiy, Medvezhiy, Ptichy, Utichy and Sivuchy Kameni.

There has never been a permanent population on the islands: even a hermit finds it difficult to survive here. For a long time, hunters and fishermen came to the islands from the mainland and returned with their catch and wild animals. True, in 1830-1831. The Americans created a company that settled on Big Shantar, but soon the settlement was abandoned and people returned to the mainland: the income from the fisheries turned out to be negligible compared to the costs of maintaining the winter hut.
The Shantar Islands are an archipelago of 15 islands in the western part of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. The largest islands are Bolshoy Shantar, Feklistova, Maly Shantar and Belichiy. The Shantar Islands are officially part of the Far North regions (the part of Russian territory located mainly north of the Arctic Circle), but are at the same latitude as Moscow.
There are a lot of birds on the Shantar Islands; there is an incessant noise from the bird colonies. In 2013, a reserve was created here to protect the island fauna.
The nature of the Shantar Islands is not much different from that on the mainland, across the strait: the same dark coniferous forests of fir and Siberian spruce, the same Gmelin larches on the slopes of the mountains, and on the peaks there are thickets of dwarf cedar.

The region of the Shantar Islands is a difficult place to survive: there are constant typhoons and fogs, and there are bitter frosts most of the year.
In the area of ​​the Shantar Islands there are constant fogs that do not dissipate even with strong winds due to the cold water. The reason is that this is the frozen region of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk: a chilly northeast wind blows and ice clogs the straits between the islands.
The tidal currents around the Shantar Islands are among the fastest in the World Ocean. They rush forcefully into the interisland straits, reminiscent of stormy rivers, and then the roar of rushing water can be heard several kilometers away.
The local harsh nature is diversified by many rivers and streams, forming about a hundred waterfalls with a height of 10 to 100 m.
Despite the difficult climatic conditions, these lands are distinguished by a wealth of flora and fauna. Dozens of rare species of plants and animals are found here. There are more than two hundred species of birds alone in the archipelago, of which eleven species are marine, and most of all are the colonial nesting (bazaars) spectacled guillemot, hatchet, mossock, cormorants and various types seagulls

On the islands there are large rookeries of pinnipeds: Steller sea lion, sealed seal, sealed seal, and akiba. In the coastal waters there are a lot of mykiss, kuzha, chum salmon, smelt, char, pink salmon, rudd, malma and lenka.
In addition, the Shantar Islands are home to many species of mammals, especially predators: brown bear, wolf, common fox, raccoon dog, wolverine, otter, ermine, weasel, sable. There is no shortage of food here: there is enough poultry and fish to feed you all year round.
Now there is no permanent population on the islands, except for a few workers at the weather station on the northeastern shore of Yakshina Bay on Bolshoi Shantar Island.
In some places on the islands you can still find evidence of the whaling industry that flourished here - rusty equipment and the remains of primitive lard factories.
Closest to the islands is the village of Chumikan - a port in the Udskaya Bay of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, at the mouth of the Uda River, and the administrative center of the Tuguro-Chumikan region.
Considering the special value of the Shantar Islands area, the entire archipelago, together with the water area, was included in the state in 1999 nature reserve federal significance"Shantar Islands" with an area of ​​515.5 thousand hectares.


Location: Sea of ​​Okhotsk Pacific Ocean.
Islands: Bolshoi Shantar, Feklistova, Maly Shantar, Belichiy, Bear, Bird, Utichiy, Sugarloaf, Kusova, Prokofieva, Sivuchi Kameni, Sukhotina, Northern, Middle, Southern and Diomede Stones.
Origin: continental.
Administrative affiliation: Tuguro-Chumikansky district, Khabarovsk Territory, Russian Federation.
Where is it and how to get there:
Immediate settlements(all on the mainland, belong to the Tuguro-Chumikan district): Chumikan village - 1147 people. (2011), Tugur village - 387 people. (2011).

Languages: Russian, Evenki.
Ethnic composition: Evenks, Russians.

Religions: Orthodoxy, shamanism.
Large rivers: Olenya, Srednyaya, Bolshoi Anaur, Yakshina (all - Bolshoi Shantar).
Large lakes: Karpino, Bolshoy and Maly Omokoy (Bolshoy Shantar), Lisye (Feklistova).
Currency: Russian ruble.
Nearest international Airport: Novy airport in Khabarovsk.

Area: about 2500 km2 (Bolshoi Shantar - 1766 km2, Feklistova - 372 km2, Small Shantar - about 100 km2, Belichiy - about 70 km2, others - Medvezhiy, Bird, Utichy, Sugarloaf, Kusova, Prokofieva, Sivuchi Kameni, Sukhotina, Northern, Middle, Southern and Diomede Stones - 192 km2).
Tides: irregular, semidiurnal, up to 10 m high.
Average altitude above sea level: about 100-200 m.
Highest point: Mount Veselaya (Bolshoi Shantar, 720 m).

Economy
Marine fishing.
Services: tourism, transport, trade.

Attractions

■ Natural: Cape Bely (Feklistova Island, marble rocks), Red Cape (Feklistova, jasper rocks), Olenya River, steep coastal cliffs (Prokofiev Island), Stone Lion rock (Bolshoy Shantar), rock “with a hole” (Maly Shantar), kekurs (Utichiy), bird colonies, marine mammal rookeries. Shantar Islands National Park.
■ Other: weather station (Bolshoi Shantar), abandoned American lard plant (Bolshoi Shantar), old cemetery (Bolshoi Shantar).

Curious facts

■ Suloy is a surge of water on the sea surface, which occurs, in particular, with a sharp decrease in the speed of the tidal current, as well as with the collision of multidirectional flows or with strong winds directed against the current. The water surface in the suloi zone looks like gurgling and boiling water. Most often, suloi are observed in straits and river mouths. In the area of ​​the Shantar Islands, the suloi reaches a height of 3-4 m and poses a danger to small ships.
■ Thirty species of birds living on the Shantar Islands are listed in the Red Book Russian Federation.
■ Lindholm Strait was named after the Finn Otto Lindholm, a major entrepreneur who was at the origins of whaling in the Far East in the mid-19th century.
■ The name “Shantar Sea” was first used by whalers in the 19th century. Nowadays this name has been preserved on the old topographic maps. On nautical charts and it was mentioned in driving directions until the middle of the 20th century, and then disappeared, as well as from new topographic maps. The reasons for cartographers’ refusal of this name are not at all ideological: the insignificant – in the opinion of cartographers – size of the “sea” and the fact that it was originally called a lip (bay).
■ Kusova Island was discovered in 1829 by the Russian hydrographer P.T. Kozmin and named after the director of the Russian-American company N.I. Kusova.
■ The Shantar Islands are an area of ​​the strongest geomagnetic anomaly, causing the compass needle to continuously spin clockwise.
■ The Srednyaya River on Bolshoi Shantar - the only place along the entire coast of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, where mykiss, or rainbow trout, lives, a species listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation.
■ In the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, on the shelf exclusively in the area of ​​the Shantar Islands, the endemic brown seaweed Laminaria Angustata will grow. This marine organism is used in the food industry and medicine.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Shantar Islands - belonging to Russia an archipelago in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk at the entrance to Udskaya Bay, Tugursky Bay and Academy Bay, separated from the mainland by the Shantar Sea and the Lindholm Strait, administratively part of the Tuguro-Chumikansky district of the Khabarovsk Territory. The name probably comes from the Nivkh “ch’and” - “to be white.”

The discovery of the Shantar Islands is attributed to Vasily Poyarkov and dates back to 1645. The first inventory and topographic survey of the islands, on behalf of the Russian-American Company, was carried out by Prokofy Kozmin in 1830-1831. The first scientific research was carried out by the Russian travel scientist Alexander Middendorf, who visited the islands in August 1844. In July 1910, the Amur Governor-General P.F. Unterberger visited the islands. It was he who determined that the Shantar Sea (Shantar Bay, Ulbansky and Tugursky bays) is internal and foreign whalers are not allowed to enter there.

Includes 15 islands: Bolshoy Shantar (the island crosses the Stalin Range), Feklistova, Maly Shantar, Belichiy, Bear, Bird, Utichiy, Sugar Loaf, Kusova, Prokofieva, Sivuchi Kameni, Sukhotina, Northern, Sredniy, Yuzhny and Diomede Stones. The total area of ​​the archipelago is about 2.5 thousand km².

The landscape of the islands is mountainous, maximum height- 720 m, according to other sources, 701 m (Veselaya Mountain on Bolshoi Shantar).

The Shantar Islands belong to the Far North.
In 1830-1831 On the island of Big Shantar, the Russian-American company founded a settlement, but it was abandoned because the fisheries were insignificant.

In 1926, a settlement (island economy) appeared on the island of Bolshoi Shantar, which was located successively in the systems of Dalgostorg (since 1926), Joint-Stock Kamchatka Company (AKO) since 1928, Soyuzpushnina Dalverochemical Plant (since 1932) and Ayano-Okhotsk fishery Trust of the People's Commissariat for Food Industry. Since 1934 - as part of the Chumikan Village Council, in 1956 - with. Shantar of the Shantar Village Council (Bolshoy Shantar settlement, Northern Cape). April 25, 1968 - the village council was abolished.

Vegetation
Large islands are covered with larch and dark coniferous forests, in which Ayan spruce, Daurian larch, dwarf cedar, and birch grow. There are thickets of dwarf cedar.

The first collection of plants (130 species) was collected by Alexander Middendorf in 1844, and was processed by taxonomist botanist Karl Meyer and botanist-naturalist Rudolf Trautfetter. The second collection was held in 1924-1926. scientific and fishing expedition of Dalryba and Dalgostorg (compiled by: A. D. Baturin - head of the expedition, zoologist G. D. Dulkeit - assistant to the head of the expedition, I. M. Goncharov). In 1927, a hydrobiological expedition of the Pacific Scientific and Fishery Station (TIRH) consisting of G.I. Zaks, A.G. Kuznetsov and A.P. Vvedensky worked, collecting herbarium material, including a herbarium of algae.

In 1907-1908, in 1911-1912. There was a forest management expedition of the Ministry of Land Management and Agriculture of the Russian Empire, headed by the vice-inspector of the Forester Corps O. V. Markgraf (zoological and soil collections).

In 1928, the Pacific Scientific and Fishery Station summarized materials on the vegetation cover of the islands, author. I. K. Shishkin. He divided the vegetation cover into groups: 1. spruce forests; 2. larch forests; 3. moss swamps; 4. thickets of herbaceous vegetation; 5. urema along river banks; 6. vegetation of rocks and outcrops; 7. vegetation of the sea coast; 8. Thickets of dwarf cedar. List of 227 plant species.

In 1947-1959 - Khabarovsk botanist A.P. Nechaev worked.

In 1970, an expedition of the forest department of the Biological and Soil Institute of the Far Eastern Scientific Center of the USSR Academy of Sciences.

In 1986, the Amur branch of the Russian Geographical Society organized a comprehensive expedition to study the ecosystem of the archipelago.

In 1999, the islands were visited by botanist L.A. Antonova.

Animal world

In the 19th century, researchers rarely visited the Shantar Islands due to their inaccessibility and remoteness from the main sea routes. The first description of birds found on the islands was compiled Russian traveler A.F. Middendorf in 1851 on a trip in 1844. At the beginning of the 20th century, during two years of work on the islands (in 1924-1926), zoologist G. D. Dulkeit described 214 species of animals. The results of his work formed the basis of the first list of birds, which he compiled together with the Soviet ornithologist L. M. Shulpin. The list included 172 species of birds. Soviet ornithologist V.D. Yakhontov in the second half of the 20th century expanded the list to 205 species. Having worked on the archipelago on expeditions in 1971, 1978, 1982, 1986, 1991 and 1992, G. E. Roslyakov completed the work begun by his fellow ornithologists.

In 1928, a hydrological and hydrobiological expedition of the State Hydrological Institute worked, and in 1930-1931. — an expedition of the Joint-Stock Kamchatka Company (AKO) and the Amurrybaksoyuz to study the prospects of marine hunting.

Since 1935, the main direction of the island economy was defined as fur farming, the main object of which is sable bred in the wild (by 1936 the sable herd reached 1500-1600 heads).

On large islands Many mammalian predators live here: brown bear, wolf, common fox, raccoon dog, wolverine, otter, ermine, weasel, sable.

There are 11 species of seabirds in the archipelago. The most numerous species is the spectacled guillemot. The number of individuals and the number of bird colonies varies significantly from year to year. Scientists have noted that in 1971, 1978 and 1982, the number of these birds nesting on the archipelago reached 18,000–20,000 pairs. The largest colonies numbering 7,000 and 3,000 pairs were located on the islands of Utichye and Ptichye. At the same time, in 1991-1992, 17,500 pairs nested on Utichye alone.

In 1999, the Shantar Islands and their water area were included in the State Natural Reserve of federal significance of the same name. In 2013, by decree of the Russian Government, the Shantar Islands National Park was established with a total area of ​​515,500 hectares, including the adjacent water area of ​​the Sea of ​​Okhotsk with an area of ​​274,284.08 hectares. Territory national park consists of 4 sections, including groups of islands of the Shantar archipelago. All sections of the national park are located in the Tuguro-Chumikansky district of the Khabarovsk Territory.

The waters around these offshore islands are frozen for about eight months in an average year, so they merge with the mainland for most of the year.

Climate
The climate is moderate monsoon, with subarctic features in temperature. In winter, in the rear of the Okhotsk cyclones, cold air is carried out from Siberia. In summer the cooling influence of the sea is felt.

BIG SHANTAR ISLAND
Big Shantar is the largest island of the Shantar archipelago. Since 1999, together with other islands of the archipelago, it has been part of the Shantar Islands State Nature Reserve. Since 2013, it has been part of the Shantar Islands National Park, established by decree of the Government of the Russian Federation.
There is a hydrometeorological station on the north-eastern shore of Yakshina Bay.
Area - 1766 sq. km. The length of the island from north to south is 65 km, from west to east along the 55th parallel - about 47 km. The northern tip of the island is Cape Severny, the southern tip is Cape Philip, the western tip is Cape Raduzhny, and the eastern tip is Cape North-East.
In the northeastern part of the island there is Lake Bolshoye, connected to the sea by a narrow strait. The Olenya River and its tributary Sredny flow into the lake. The Yakshina Bay juts deep into the southwestern coast of the island, into which two large rivers: Big Anaur and Yakshina. The lip partially dries out during low tide.
The highest point of the island is Mount Vesyolaya with a height of 720 m, according to other sources 701 m. Other peaks: Mt. Anaur (637 m), Mt. Sukhaya (586 m), Mt. Amuka (565 m), Mt. Philippa (532 m) .
Most of The island is covered with coniferous forest, the basis of which is spruce and larch. In the southern part there are birch and alder. There are two species of smallmouth smelt in Lake Bolshoye: sea smallmouth (Hypomesus japonicus) and river smallmouth (H. olidus).
The island is mentioned in the computer game Grand Theft Auto IV as the location of the headquarters of the fictional Shitster program.
IN Soviet time There was a military unit on the island.
In 2016, about 2 thousand metal barrels and several pieces of equipment that were subject to disposal were discovered. In 2017, the island is being cleaned of large metal debris. The work is being carried out by the environmental unit of the Eastern Military District of the Russian Armed Forces.

Diomede stones
At a distance of about 2.5 km south of Cape Phillip is the island (rock) Diomede Stones

Feklistov Island is the second largest island of the Shantar archipelago. It is located west of Big Shantar and separated from it by the Northern Strait. The area of ​​the island is 372 square meters. km. The length of the island is about 40 km, highest point— 485 m (Povorotnaya town). Most of the island is covered with taiga. In the northern part of the island there is Lake Lissie, into which the river of the same name flows. IN South coast The island juts out into Lebyazhya Bay with the bays of Rosset, Sobolev and the Enegelm roadstead.

A placer occurrence of platinum group metals was discovered on the island.

Sukhotin Island
Sukhotina Island is located at the entrance to Lebyazhya Bay at a distance of about 800 m from Feklistov Island and is separated from it by the Uzkiy Strait. Sukhotin Island was described in 1885 during the hydrological expedition of the Abrek clipper and, according to some sources, named in honor of I.V. Sukhotin.

The islands of Feklistov and Sukhotin are part of the State Nature Reserve of federal significance “Shantar Islands”.

NATIONAL PARK
National Park "Shantar Islands" - national park Russia, established on December 30, 2013 with the aim of preserving unique natural complexes on the Shantar Islands in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. It is under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Natural Resources and Ecology of Russia, a branch of the Federal State Budgetary Institution “Reserved Amur Region”.
The director of the national park is Ivan Anatolyevich Nasonov.

The national park is located in the eastern part of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, administratively part of the Khabarovsk Territory. The total area of ​​the park is 5155 km², including forest lands in the Tuguro-Chumikansky district - 2412 km², water fund lands - 2743 km² in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk.
The island and the surrounding waters could not receive this status for more than 40 years.
According to Corresponding Member of the Russian Academy of Sciences Boris Voronov, the first attempts to organize a reserve in this area date back to 1975. In 1999, Resolution No. 249 was adopted on the organization of the Shantar Islands natural state reserve. Then, for 15 years, work was carried out on the creation of a national park, in which scientists took an active part, public organizations and ecologists. However, the damage from the activities of poachers in the region is still felt. According to ornithologist Vladimir Pronkevich, even modern tourists “do not disdain” poaching.

The Shantar Islands have been included in government plans for the development of a system of specially protected natural areas of federal significance since 2001.
The chairman of the public committee “Saving the Shantar Islands” (Khabarovsk) at VOOPIiK Gennady Basyuk wrote three letters to V.V. Putin in 2011, expressing concern for the fate of Shantar. In them, he spoke about the need to resolve the issue of protecting Russia’s water borders, about the power protection of the Shantar Islands and the entire Sea of ​​Okhotsk. In January 2013, he urgently convened a press conference, declaring that part of the territory had been encumbered; more precisely, the land of the largest island of the archipelago - Big Shantar - was leased from a private structure and its term was expiring; the territory was put up for lease renewal. After the press conference, the lease was not renewed, and a national park appeared the same year.

As of the summer of 2014, the national park exists “only on paper”, but rangers and scientists should soon appear on the islands, it is planned to repair and put into operation an airstrip, and over time there should be ecological trails. The number of employees of the national park will be about 30 people.
In October 2016, a group of scientists went to the islands for the first time since the establishment of the national park.
In the same year, a working expedition of specialists from the environmental service of the logistics headquarters of the Eastern Military District and the regional environmental center was sent to the islands, and the volume of work to clean up the territory was assessed. Cleaning of large metal debris from Big Shantar Island is planned for 2017. As of January 18, 2017, the staff of the environmental platoon of the Eastern Military District was formed, and a map of cleaning the territory was prepared. In the fall of 2017, 12 containers with equipment for processing metal waste directly on site (metal cutting and pressing) will be delivered to the island. In total, about 2 thousand metal barrels and several pieces of equipment that were to be disposed of were found on the island.
Starting in the summer of 2017, cruise routes with calls at the national park are planned. Usage water transport(versus air) should significantly reduce the cost of the transport component of the excursion tour.

Meaning
The unique island ecosystems of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk are a combination of natural complexes of northern taiga and mountain tundra with elements of original flora. On the islands there are rare species of animals and plants listed in the Red Books of the Russian Federation and the Khabarovsk Territory, there are rookeries for pinnipeds, and the river Srednyaya on Bolshoi Shantar Island is home to the mykiss fish - a unique Shantar population of this species listed in the Red Book of Russia.
Large islands are covered with larch and dark coniferous forests, in which Siberian spruce, Gmelin larch, dwarf cedar, and birch grow. There are thickets of dwarf cedar.
The large islands are home to many mammalian predators: brown bear, wolf, common fox, raccoon dog, wolverine, otter, ermine, weasel, sable.
There are 11 species of seabirds in the archipelago. The most numerous species is the spectacled guillemot. The number of individuals and the number of bird colonies varies significantly from year to year. Scientists noted that in 1971, 1978 and 1982 the number of these birds nesting on the archipelago reached 18,000–20,000 pairs. The largest colonies numbering 7,000 and 3,000 pairs were located on the islands of Utichye and Ptichye. At the same time, in 1991-1992, 17,500 pairs nested on Utichye alone.
In the water area you can see bowhead whales approaching quite close to the shores of the islands

TRIP TO THE SHANTAR ISLANDS
In our case, we first had to fly by plane for 8 hours, then travel by bus for 14 hours along the roads of the Khabarovsk Territory (in some places along very broken and washed out roads), and then, in the event of helicopter flight weather (and we were waiting for such weather 9 hours), fly by helicopter for 1.5 hours... and here we are on the Shantar Islands, islands that are scattered in the Sea of ​​Okhotsk. We will visit several islands, but so far the helicopter has dropped us off at the most big Island, which is called the Big Shantar.

I know there are edges.....

I know there are edges - go around, look, try
There is such earth, there is such grass,
And there are no traces of forests like in those places, brother.
There in the lakes the water is like God's dew,
There the stars sparkle like diamonds and fall into the mountains.
I would go there if only I could get a ticket...

The Shantar Islands are the dream of those who are attracted by wild nature and harsh conditions (there is a short summer, there is ice in July, and in September the sea is covered with ice again). There is often fog here, in some places there are “crowds” of mosquitoes and midges, and very large ebb and flow tides. There are fantastically beautiful bays and rocks here. Seals, killer whales, and whales swim in the sea among the icebergs. Bears, foxes, and deer roam the banks, there is a hubbub from bird colonies, and the rivers are full of fish. There are amazing animals here that are not afraid of people, and sometimes even smile when they meet.

True, at night you don’t want them to be afraid of you, and you don’t want them to walk around the tent. Therefore, sometimes I had to be on duty at the post and “shoot back.” I don’t look very good here, after all, I’ve been on my feet all night without spamming.
Once I fell asleep at the “post” and this is what I found next to my slippers in the morning... Well, Misha didn’t take his shoes, the size didn’t fit.
The journey around the islands itself takes place on boats, in which you can comfortably spread out, and if you are tired of looking out for killer whales and seals, you can take a sweet nap. For example, like this:
And of course, you need to experience extreme sports! What kind of adventure is this if there is no extreme sports? This is how, for example, we “ran away” from killer whales. We looked for them in the distance, and in some amazing way they moved right under our boat...

From Khabarovsk to Briakan (from where we have a helicopter transfer to Bolshoi Shantar) 14 hours by bus. Along broken Far Eastern roads: somewhere on asphalt, somewhere on a dirt road, in some places the road is washed out. At 6 am we arrived at the heliport in Briakane. And the first helicopter, in flying weather, takes off at 9-10 in the morning. There is a small Hilton hotel here (by the way, we went here on a 5-star bus). It’s still very early and the Hilton is busy - crests are sleeping here now (they came purely for fishing, they go to Shantary every year).
They were supposed to take off yesterday, but the weather was not good for flying, it was raining, and they were stuck here. We whiled away the time in the gazebo. Soon the crests stood up and time passed unnoticed - with lard, vodka, and conversation...

In the morning the helicopter did not fly away, it was foggy, but at lunchtime they sent the crests to the island and finally we took off at 6 pm. 1.5 hours of flight - and we are on Big Shantar! We disembarked quickly, and the group immediately loaded up for departure from Shantar. Vertak lands right on the shore. In the evening on the shore - “TsU” how to behave in the wild and when meeting a bear (which is very likely here)!

At night a bear came. Or rather, in the morning. The crests (our friends) are camping nearby, across the river (and when the tide is low, it is not a river, but a small stream, and you can walk to the Ukrainians across the “river”). So early in the morning (it was still dark) they shout “Muscovites, the bear is coming!”, and the second voice adds “with our lard”! Bears may not be very scary for people now (there are a lot of fish and berries), but they can tear up boats, and boats are our EVERYTHING. So the crests continue to shout “the bear is 70 meters from the boat”, and immediately followed by another voice “no, 30 meters”! The guide Vova jumped out in what he slept in (he only put on a vest with ammunition) with a gun and a rocket launcher to scare away the bear. He drove for about 30 minutes - and he shot and said in a rude voice “get out of here, get out”! It’s creepy that he’s so close and I had to scare him for so long. In the morning it turned out that he had snatched half a loaf of sausage from us and grabbed the butter with his paw.
In the morning the weather is excellent, seals are swimming - but somehow far away. No wind, not sunny. Today we explore the shore where the camp is located - we walked along the shore - beautiful rocks, a cliff. The fog stretches in and out. The first time we went out to sea - we swam to fresh water - on a boat for about 30 minutes along the water to the waterfall.

In the morning we break camp and drive along the island. A little over an hour - and we are at the weather station. It is here that the only people on all the Shantar Islands live - only 4 people of the population. And these four people keep records of weather, precipitation, transmit data, etc.
Not far from here there was once a mini factory for processing whale oil; the fat was processed into oil. Now everything has been torn apart piece by piece, the frames that remain have naturally rusted. While we were walking around the weather station (and we only walked for a couple of hours), the water went down a lot and the boats were stranded. What to do, then, we rest for three hours, wait for the tide - eat, walk, sleep, read newspapers, do crossword puzzles.
Well, our fishermen (three Khabarovsk residents) went fishing (they returned with their catch - pink salmon). Anatoly Dmitriech came - a local aborigine, a celebrity. He has lived on the island for a long time; he once hunted sables, but he still lives on the island. He lived alone and now lives at a weather station.
Around five the water came. We load up and head to Topaznaya Bay. There is also fresh water here - the Topaznaya River.

The place is wonderful. There is enough space on the shore for tents, there is a place to walk along the shore, and there is a nice river nearby.
We sail to the Utichy Islands. It’s sunny on the shore, but in the sea it’s cooler in any case, and closer to Utichy there’s also fog. The islands are in thick fog and almost nothing is visible. They say that a small plane once crashed here (these islands had not yet been mapped).
We returned to our bay through the fog. But in our bay it’s sunny and joyful!
The guys built a shower, so today we will wash! We also swam in the sea, it burns, but is tolerable. We took a walk through the forest. We found the remains of a house (lower masonry) and a rusty fire extinguisher. It’s crazy, and this is who cut down the hut in the forest and equipped it. And this is quite a distance into the island (20 minutes walk) and there are mosquitoes here!!!
In the evening, our fishermen went to sea and pleased us with sea gobies.
At night a bear came. In the morning we understood, because the barrel of food was overturned and the sausage and cheese were scattered on the sand (in the following days, all the most valuable food was hung on a tree), and then we saw footprints on the beach.

We are standing in the same bay. We were supposed to go to Feklistov, but there was wind, so we are waiting for the weather. We climbed the cape. The fog cleared, the view of the bay and the camp opened up. The climb takes about an hour, somewhere there is a path, somewhere along the spruce branches we walk.
The guys made a camp sauna - a real one. They heated the stones, lined the floor with juniper branches, covered them with an awning - a real steam room (in the photo behind me). And the smell!!! And from the steam room - dive into the scorching Sea of ​​Okhotsk! Beauty!
At night they decided to watch for the bear. We set the alarm for 4.30 (it gets light at five, so we can see it at dawn). In the morning we got up and waited, but he didn’t come...

And in the morning we still saw his footprints on the beach! It turns out that he came into the darkness. Anyway. We'll watch for him anyway...

The day before the weather was given for departure - the wind was decreasing. We go to Feklistov Island (the second largest, after Big Shantar), to Swan Bay. The walk is about 50 km, which is 4-5 hours by sea. There is little fog. We load up, take our seats... and it starts to rain! It’s not a downpour, but it pours in from above, from the sky, and from the sides, from the sea. But it soon passed. We had a snack on board.
It took exactly 4 hours to get to Feklistov. Big bay. And how many mosquitoes! There is a hut (winter hut) above the shore. Of course, abandoned, and of course, walked by a bear. The shore is covered with flowers.
There is a river - and our fishermen immediately went fishing. Let's dry ourselves. Someone went for a walk along the shore, someone is sitting on the shore, someone is helping in the kitchen.
Some people got wet and cold - not everyone got it detailed information on equipment, and in general on the specifics of the trip. Which is why they sometimes froze. But a 5-liter bottle (don’t think it’s water!) and a can of stew saved me from all sorts of colds!

We are leaving for Bird Island. We get up at 8 am, have breakfast, and set sail at 11. The sail is about 5 hours. It's a little foggy, and sometimes it starts to drizzle. P.S. our fishermen are fishing again in the morning and, of course, again with fish! We went out on the natural Arch and examined the small caves nearby.
The weather is good - no waves, sun in fog. Snack on board. And here it is, Bird Island! The shore is littered with driftwood, and beautiful boulders line the shore. And the most beautiful decoration of the bay is the snowfield!
The island is small - 2.5 km long and 1.5 km wide. Before the fog settled, we went up the snowfield (again, you can’t walk far - bears!), There are traces (or rather waste) of a bear. True, they say, most likely last year (question - did he swim away from the island??). But still, since the island is small, and the only source of fresh water is the snowfield, if there is a bear on the island, it will definitely come here... which means you have to be careful. The fog is creeping in and gradually covering the island and us...
What’s good is that there are no mosquitoes here at all (which tormented us on Feklistov Island).

At night, someone small wandered not far from the tent, pebbles rustled... But it seemed to me that it was a huge bear walking right next to my tent. Overall, I was scared...
Morning. Birds-birds-birds (Bird Island). There are large colonies of spectacled guillemot on the island. Nebula across the island. We are going to the mainland. The weather is pleasant, with a slightly cool breeze. We are sailing to Ongachan.
We floated out around 12 noon, a couple of hours later ice appeared - separately floating pieces, some taking on bizarre shapes.
On the way we meet surprised seals (probably we have never seen people).
And then we hit an ice field. They walked around it with extreme caution.

And suddenly there are killer whales ahead! The fins rise above the water. While we were looking out for them ahead (they had gone under the water), we stopped the boat. And suddenly, somehow magically, they appeared under our boat! Imagine all the horror! (it costs her nothing to turn the boat over). One of them began to rise immediately behind the stern. Sergei (the captain of our boat) took off sharply (the boat almost took off above the water). The feeling, of course, is indescribable! Such an emotional outburst! Seeing killer whales so close!
Killer whales are the largest of the dolphins. Their mass can reach up to 9 tons. They are called killer whales; the ancient Romans called them orcs, which means demons. In the diver's reference guide it is written about them that if you are attacked by a killer whale, then everything is already predetermined for you, there is no salvation. Here is a video of what can happen to those who did not have time to “hide” from killer whales.

We sail to Ongachan Bay. The view is cosmic - ice floes are floating in the fog, the shore is littered with dry forest.
And the bay itself is sunny and joyful! That's where heaven is! The river is nearby, the sun is shining, there are no mosquitoes. Our old Ukrainian friends (fishermen) are standing here. We set up tents, ran to the lake to swim (it seemed that the lake was very, very close), we forgot about safety. The beauty of the place relaxed us.
As a result, we did not reach the lake - we were stopped by a bear that appeared right in front of us on the path... We turned around and ran to our own! So we swam in the river next to the camp.
Soon we hear “bear”, “bear”! And where we recently swam there was a bear wandering around. A general photo hunt has begun.
We must give the bear his due, he didn’t mind being photographed at all, and then, when everyone was tired of taking pictures of him, they couldn’t drive him away from the camp for a long time - they shot (scared him away), and he walked in circles, didn’t want to go to his place, and demanded attention.

And on the shore, by the sea, it’s beautiful. Fog, floating ice, silence. And in the silence, sometimes you can hear the ice floes colliding and moving apart again...
A red-haired fox is walking along the shore. A little skinny, but the tail is as expected - gorgeous. She walked along the river - here the crests fed her fish. And she allowed herself to be photographed.
And a whale also swam. The people heard his “breathing” and ran ashore, but they only saw his back. Floated away.

In the evening, the Ukrainian camp treated us to salmon, watermelon, and alcohol (they are flying home tomorrow). Over a good snack and drink, the Russian soul turned around and sang songs under the stars half the night...

We reached Cape Zaretsky. We spend the night in Ulbansky Bay. Along the way we go through the ice. Fog and ice. There are seals here and there on the ice floes. We landed and set up camp. There is a river and silence...

In the morning we set off and in the afternoon we arrive at the Syran River. (a helicopter will pick us up from here). We arrived in high water and were in a special hurry to make it easier to get ashore. The banks were heavily washed away and it was impossible not to get stuck in the clay... This is the kind of extreme experience we got when we got out to the bank of the Syran River.
And the view of the river from above is beautiful.
Here favorite place beluga whales (they come here for fish). Only the back of the beluga whale was photographed. And in the photo there is an island - a traveler. With the tide, he floats in one direction, with the ebb, in the other. So we saw it a couple of times a day - it swims back and forth.
Here we stand for 2 days. We are waiting for the helicopter. Since it’s a swampy place, there are as many mosquitoes as there can be in the air.. It’s still hot (okay, the breeze blows sometimes and drives away the mosquitoes for a couple of minutes). There is nowhere to go - swamps and swamps all around.
We set up a washing room. Not everyone wanted to wash in the swamp at first, but there was no choice. The fact is that there is no other water. The water in the Syran River is muddy and muddy. The guys went out on a boat and looked for a source of water further along the river. They brought it. The color turned out to be the same as in the Syran River. So on the second day, even the most persistent (with a persistent aversion to swamp water) could not stand the heat, sweat, mosquitoes, and doused themselves with refreshing water behind the screen.
You won’t find anything else to do here, so we just sit all day. The only thing is that we had fun once. We saw a bear chasing an elk (though it’s far away, it’s hard to see). But it’s good for the fishermen - they go on a boat to the river for the whole day. And, of course, they come with a catch!
We are looking forward to the helicopter. We were a little worried this morning. The sky was overcast. What if the weather is not suitable for flying? And I already want to go to civilization (shower, clean clothes, bottled water). We gathered the camp and sat and waited with hope. And here he is, a couple of hours late, flying after us!

The helicopter did not land easily. It's a swampy place. I landed on the spot where our tents had recently stood. So, upon landing, he got stuck in a swamp and sat up straight on his butt.
After unloading the passengers (he brought well-trained fishermen with a refrigerator for the fish), the helicopter rose and settled in more comfortably.
But everything went well, we took off, 40 minutes later we were in Briakan and an hour later we were rushing to Khabarovsk along the dusty and broken-down roads of the Far Eastern Territory in a 5-star bus (without air conditioning, with a broken fan, with reclining seat backs not working, in a cabin that smelled of gasoline, with periodic stops during the night for repairs). But we got there with the breeze!

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
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