Registan ensemble - Ulugbek madrasah. Registan Square: the heart of the cultural life of Samarkand
In the cities of the Middle East, the main squares were called Registan. And today the most famous and most magnificent square in its beauty is located in the center of old Samarkand. The beauty and grandeur of this place does not leave indifferent any person who has visited this land at least once. Translated from Uzbek, Registan means “place covered with sand.” This name appeared for a reason. The fact is that, according to legends, public executions were carried out in such a square from the 15th to the 20th centuries, and in order for the blood to be better absorbed into the ground, it was sprinkled with sand. There is also an opinion that Tamerlane displayed here the heads of victims impaled on pins. But in addition to harsh reprisals, Registan Square was a place where people gathered to announce royal decrees. Before each announcement of a new decree, the people were notified by the loud sound of copper pipes. But people do not go to Samarkand for these stories and legends, but to see the greatest buildings of the Islamic world.
On the Registan Square of Samarkand, paved with cobblestones and bricks, rises a beautiful architectural ensemble of three madrassas, which was included in the List in 2001 world heritage UNESCO.
The oldest of them is the Ulugbek madrasah, which was built by the Timurid ruler and scientist Ulugbek in 1417 - 1420. The building has a high pointed arch, above which there is a mosaic panel made of carved and glazed ceramics and colored bricks. It was in this madrasah that famous scientists of that time, such as Al-Kushchi, Kazi-zade ar-Rumi, Jemshid Giyas ad-Din Al-Kashi and Ulugbek himself, gave their lectures.
The Ulugbek madrasah occupied the western part of the Registan. A few years later, Ulugbek's khanaka was built opposite it, and on the northern side there was a caravanserai. These two buildings have not survived to this day, since in their place in the 17th century two more madrasahs were built: Sherdor (1619 - 1636) and Tillya-Kari (1646 - 1660).
By order of Yalangtush Bahadur (ruler of Samarkand), the construction of a new madrasah - Sherdor Madrasah - began on the site of a dilapidated khanqah. The building almost mirrors the Ulugbek madrasah, but in distorted proportions. Its main difference is big size dome, which may be the reason for the gradual destruction of the building. On the entrance portal there is the coat of arms of Samarkand, and on top it is written in Arabic script “The Lord Almighty!”
The coat of arms of Samarkand is a leopard with the sun on its back.
Glazed bricks, mosaic paintings and mosaic sets decorate the external and internal façade, and quotations from the Koran can be read on the walls. In terms of its sophistication, the Sherdor madrasah is inferior to the Ulugbek madrasah, but this in no way diminishes its importance among the best architectural monuments of the city.
On the site of the former caravanserai, the third madrasah, the Tillya-Kari madrasah, is located monumentally and majestically. The facade of this building consists of a main portal and front two-tier wings with corner towers, and in the courtyard there is a domed mosque building. Gilding was used extensively for decoration of the madrasah, which is why it got its name, which means “trimmed with gold.” In addition to the fact that students were trained in this institution, the Tillya-Kari madrasah served as a cathedral mosque.
An acquaintance with Registan Square will not be complete without touching on other structures that are located on it. If you take the Tillya-Kari madrasah as a guide, then to the east of it is the Sheibanid mausoleum. It is represented by a pile of tombstones, the oldest of which dates back to the 16th century.
Behind the Sherdor madrasah there is the ancient trading dome of Chorsu. This hexagonal domed structure was built in the 15th century. In 2005, the trade dome was restored, and to restore its full height, a three-meter layer of soil had to be cleared away. Today it houses a gallery visual arts, where everyone can enjoy the exhibition works of Uzbek sculptors and artists. It is this building that confirms the status of Registan Square as shopping center Samarkand.
In conclusion about central square Samarkand I would like to emphasize that neither eloquent words nor the most beautiful photo unable to describe and convey the wonderful and amazing feeling that absorbs a person standing on this historical land.
: 39°39′17″ n. w. 66°58′32″ E. d. / 39.65472° N. w. 66.9755556° E. d. / 39.65472; 66.9755556(G) (I)
Ulugbek Madrasah
Ulugbek Madrasah is the oldest madrasah on Registan Square and was built in 1417-1420. ruler of the Timurid state and astronomer scientist Ulugbek. The construction of this structure, and a little later of the observatory, brought Samarkand the glory of one of the main centers of science in the medieval East.
The madrasah was built in the western part of Registan Square, opposite it a few years later the khanaka of Ulugbek was erected, and the northern side was occupied by a caravanserai. The last two buildings stood for about two centuries, and then in their place at the beginning of the 17th century there appeared the Sherdor madrasah and the Tillya-Kari madrasah, which have survived to this day.
The madrasah, rectangular in plan, had four ivans and a square courtyard, along the perimeter of which there were deep niches leading to two-tier cells where students lived. Backside The courtyard was occupied by a mosque, four domes rose above the corner classrooms of the madrasah, and four minarets were located in the corners of the building. The building faces the square with a majestic eastern portal with a high pointed arch, above which there is a mosaic panel with geometric patterns, made of colored bricks, glazed and carved ceramics.
Ulugbek Madrasah was one of the best spiritual universities of the Muslim East of the 15th century. According to legend, the famous poet, scientist and philosopher Abdurahman Jami studied there. At the educational institution, lectures were given on mathematics, geometry, logic, natural sciences, sets of teachings about man and the world soul and theology and were read by famous scientists of that time: Kazi-zade ar-Rumi, Jemshid Ghiyas ad-Din Al-Kashi, Al- Kushchi, as well as Ulugbek himself.
Sherdor Madrasah
Sherdor Madrasah was built on the site of Ulugbek's khanaka, which arose in 1424 in the eastern part of the square opposite the Ulugbek madrasah. By the beginning of the 17th century, the khanaka, along with other buildings in the square, had become dilapidated and unusable. By order of the ruler of Samarkand, Yalangtush Bahadur, the construction of the Sherdor and Tillya-Kari madrasahs began. Sherdor Madrasah (madrasah “with tigers”, “Abode of Lions”) was erected by an architect named Abdul-Jabbar, master of decoration Muhammad Abbas.
The Sherdor madrasah is almost a mirror image of the Ulugbek madrasah standing opposite, although in distorted proportions. It is distinguished by an excessively large dome, which could have caused the gradual destruction of the building just a few decades after its construction. The walls of the madrasah are covered with quotations from the Koran, the entrance portal depicts the coat of arms of Samarkand - leopards with the sun on its back, a swastika is placed in the center of the arch, and at the top it is written in a special Arabic font: “ Lord Almighty!" The decoration of the external and internal facades is made of glazed bricks, mosaic sets and paintings with an abundance of gilding. The decoration of the Sherdor madrasah is noticeably inferior in sophistication to the Ulugbek madrasah, built in the 15th century, which marked the “golden age” of Samarkand architecture. However, the harmony of large and small forms, elegant mosaic design, monumentality, clarity of symmetry - all this puts the madrasah on a par with the best architectural monuments of the city.
Tillya-Kari Madrasah
Tillya-Kari Madrasah was erected in the northern part of the square ten years after the Sherdor Madrasah on the site of a caravanserai from the 1420s. The main facade of the building, square in plan, is symmetrical and consists of a central portal and two-tiered front wings with arched niches and corner towers. The spacious courtyard is built around the perimeter with small residential cells, hujras. On the western side of the courtyard there is a domed mosque building with two adjacent galleries on pillars.
The building of the madrasah is richly decorated with mosaics and majolica with geometric and floral patterns. Gilding was abundantly used in the interior decoration, which gave the madrasah its name, meaning “trimmed with gold.” The mihrab and minbar in the mosque are gilded, the surface of the walls and vaults are covered with paintings kundal with abundant use of gold.
Throughout its history, the Tillya-Kari madrasah was not only a place for students to study, but also served as a cathedral mosque.
Other buildings
Mausoleum of Sheybanids
To the east of the Tillya-Kari madrasah is the Shaybanid mausoleum, which is a pile of tombstones, the oldest of which dates back to the 16th century. The founder of the Sheybanid power was the grandson of Abul Khair, Muhammad Sheybani, who in 1500, with the support of the Chagatai Khanate, then settled in Tashkent, conquered Samarkand and Bukhara, overthrowing the last rulers from the Timurid dynasty who ruled there. After this, Sheybani turned against his benefactors and captured Tashkent in 1503. In 1506 he captured Khiva and in 1507 attacked Merv (Turkmenistan), eastern Persia and western Afghanistan. The Shaybanids stopped the advance of the Safavids, who conquered Akkoyunlu (Iran) in 1502. Muhammad Sheybani was the leader of the nomadic Uzbeks. Over the following years, they firmly established themselves in the oases of Central Asia. The 16th-century Uzbek invasion was the final component in the ethnogenesis of the modern Uzbek nation.
Trade dome of Chorsu
Behind the Sherdor madrasah there is an ancient trading dome Chorsu, confirming the status of Registan Square as a shopping center of medieval Samarkand. The hexagonal domed building that has survived to this day was built in the 15th century and rebuilt at the beginning of the 18th century. In 2005, the trade dome was restored, and a three-meter layer of soil was cleared away to restore the building to its full height. Now it houses a gallery of fine arts, where works of Uzbek artists and sculptors are exhibited.
Legends and myths
They say that the name of the square is sandy place- occurred because the ground here was strewn with sand to absorb the blood of the victims of public executions, which were allegedly carried out at this place until the beginning of the 20th century. They also say that Registan was a place where Tamerlane displayed the heads of his victims, which were impaled on pins, and also a place where people gathered to listen to royal decrees, before the reading of which copper trumpets were loudly blown. However, it should be remembered that during the time of Timur, who died in 1405, on that square there was not a single one of the existing buildings considered masterpieces of oriental architecture.
Gallery
Ulugbek Madrasa 2007.jpg
Registan - Sherdor madrasa.jpg
Registan in numismatics
- In 1989, a commemorative coin with a face value of 5 rubles was minted in the USSR, dedicated to Registan.
see also
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Notes
Literature
- Weymarn B. Registan in Samarkand.- M., 1946. 104 p. (Series “Treasures of architecture of the peoples of the USSR”).
- Registan (front square)- article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia.
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Excerpt characterizing Registan (Samarkand)
She always turned to him with a joyful, trusting smile that was only for him, in which there was something more significant than what was in the general smile that always adorned her face. Pierre knew that everyone was only waiting for him to finally say one word, to step over a certain line, and he knew that sooner or later he would step over it; but some kind of incomprehensible horror seized him at the mere thought of this terrible step. A thousand times during this month and a half, during which he felt himself drawn further and further into that abyss that frightened him, Pierre said to himself: “What is this? It takes determination! Don’t I have it?”He wanted to make up his mind, but he felt with horror that in this case he did not have the determination that he knew in himself and that really was in him. Pierre was one of those people who are strong only when they feel completely pure. And from the day he was possessed by that feeling of desire that he experienced over Anna Pavlovna’s snuffbox, an unconscious feeling of guilt in this desire paralyzed his determination.
On Helen’s name day, Prince Vasily had dinner with a small company of people closest to her, as the princess said, relatives and friends. All these relatives and friends were given the feeling that on this day the fate of the birthday girl should be decided.
The guests were sitting at dinner. Princess Kuragina, a massive, once beautiful, representative woman, sat in the master's seat. On both sides of her sat the most honored guests - the old general, his wife, Anna Pavlovna Scherer; at the end of the table sat the less elderly and honored guests, and the family, Pierre and Hélène, were sitting there, side by side. Prince Vasily did not have dinner: he walked around the table in a cheerful mood, sitting down with one or another of the guests. He spoke a casual and pleasant word to everyone, with the exception of Pierre and Helen, whose presence he did not seem to notice. Prince Vasily revived everyone. The wax candles burned brightly, the silver and crystal dishes, the ladies’ outfits and the gold and silver epaulets shone; servants in red caftans scurried around the table; the sounds of knives, glasses, plates and the sounds of the animated chatter of several conversations around this table were heard. The old chamberlain at one end could be heard assuring the old baroness of his ardent love for her and her laughter; on the other hand, a story about the failure of some Marya Viktorovna. At the middle of the table, Prince Vasily gathered his audience around him. He told the ladies, with a playful smile on his lips, the last - on Wednesday - meeting of the State Council, at which the then famous rescript of Emperor Alexander Pavlovich from the army was received and read by Sergei Kuzmich Vyazmitinov, the new St. Petersburg military governor-general, in which the Emperor, addressing Sergei Kuzmich, said that from all sides he receives statements about the devotion of the people, and that the statement from St. Petersburg is especially pleasant to him, that he is proud of the honor of being the head of such a nation and will try to be worthy of it. This rescript began with the words: Sergey Kuzmich! Rumors reach me from all sides, etc.
– So it didn’t go any further than “Sergei Kuzmich”? – asked one lady.
“Yes, yes, not by a hair,” answered Prince Vasily, laughing. – Sergey Kuzmich... from all sides. From all sides, Sergei Kuzmich... Poor Vyazmitinov could not go further. Several times he started writing again, but as soon as Sergei said... sobbing... Ku...zmi...ch - tears... and were drowned out by sobs on all sides, and he could not go on. And again the scarf, and again “Sergei Kuzmich, from all sides,” and tears... so they already asked someone else to read it.
“Kuzmich... from all sides... and tears...” someone repeated laughing.
“Don’t be angry,” Anna Pavlovna said, wagging her finger from the other end of the table, “est un si brave et excellent homme notre bon Viasmitinoff... [This is such a wonderful person, our good Vyazmitinov...]
Everyone laughed a lot. At the upper, honorable end of the table, everyone seemed to be cheerful and under the influence of a variety of lively moods; only Pierre and Helen sat silently next to each other almost at the lower end of the table; on the faces of both was restrained a radiant smile, independent of Sergei Kuzmich - a smile of shyness in front of their feelings. No matter what they said and no matter how others laughed and joked, no matter how appetizingly they ate Rhine wine, sauté, and ice cream, no matter how they avoided this couple with their eyes, no matter how indifferent and inattentive they seemed to be to her, for some reason one felt from time to time glances thrown at them, that the anecdote about Sergei Kuzmich, and the laughter, and the food - everything was feigned, and all the attention of this entire society was directed only to this couple - Pierre and Helen. Prince Vasily imagined the sobs of Sergei Kuzmich and at this time looked around his daughter; and while he laughed, the expression on his face said: “Well, well, everything is going well; “Today everything will be decided.” Anna Pavlovna threatened him for notre bon Viasmitinoff, and in her eyes, which flashed briefly at Pierre at that moment, Prince Vasily read congratulations on his future son-in-law and his daughter’s happiness. The old princess, offering wine to her neighbor with a sad sigh and looking angrily at her daughter, seemed to say with this sigh: “Yes, now you and I have nothing left to do but drink sweet wine, my dear; now is the time for these youth to be so boldly defiantly happy.” “And what nonsense is all this that I tell, as if it interests me,” the diplomat thought, looking at the happy faces of the lovers – this is happiness!
Among those insignificantly small, artificial interests that bound this society together was a simple feeling of desire for beautiful and healthy young men and women for each other. And this human feeling suppressed everything and hovered above all their artificial babble. The jokes were sad, the news uninteresting, the excitement was obviously fake. Not only they, but the footmen serving at the table seemed to feel the same and forgot the order of service, looking at the beautiful Helen with her radiant face and at the red, fat, happy and restless face of Pierre. It seemed that the candlelight was focused only on these two happy faces.
Pierre felt that he was the center of everything, and this position both pleased and embarrassed him. He was in the state of a man deep in some activity. He did not see anything clearly, did not understand or hear anything. Only occasionally, unexpectedly, fragmentary thoughts and impressions from reality flashed through his soul.
“So it’s all over! - he thought. - And how did this all happen? So fast! Now I know that not for her alone, not for myself alone, but for everyone, this must inevitably happen. They are all so waiting for it, so sure that it will happen, that I cannot, I cannot deceive them. But how will this happen? Don't know; but it will happen, it will certainly happen!” thought Pierre, looking at those shoulders shining right next to his eyes.
Then suddenly he felt ashamed of something. He felt embarrassed that he was the only one occupying everyone’s attention, that he was lucky in the eyes of others, that with his ugly face he was some kind of Paris possessing Helen. “But, it’s true, it always happens this way and this is how it should be,” he consoled himself. - And, by the way, what did I do for this? When did it start? I left Moscow with Prince Vasily. There was nothing here yet. Then, why couldn’t I stop with him? Then I played cards with her and picked up her reticule and went for a ride with her. When did this start, when did it all happen? And so he sits next to her like a groom; hears, sees, feels her closeness, her breathing, her movements, her beauty. Then suddenly it seems to him that it is not she, but he himself is so extraordinarily handsome, that is why they look at him like that, and he, happy with the general surprise, straightens his chest, raises his head and rejoices at his happiness. Suddenly some voice, someone’s familiar voice, is heard and tells him something else. But Pierre is so busy that he does not understand what is being said to him. “I’m asking you when you received the letter from Bolkonsky,” Prince Vasily repeats for the third time. - How absent-minded you are, my dear.
Prince Vasily smiles, and Pierre sees that everyone, everyone is smiling at him and Helen. “Well, well, if you know everything,” Pierre said to himself. "Well? it’s true,” and he himself smiled with his meek, childish smile, and Helen smiles.
- When did you receive it? From Olmutz? - repeats Prince Vasily, who seems to need to know this to resolve the dispute.
“And is it possible to talk and think about such trifles?” Pierre thinks.
“Yes, from Olmutz,” he answers with a sigh.
From dinner, Pierre led his lady behind the others into the living room. The guests began to leave and some left without saying goodbye to Helen. As if not wanting to tear her away from her serious occupation, some came up for a minute and quickly moved away, forbidding her to accompany them. The diplomat was sadly silent as he left the living room. He imagined all the futility of it diplomatic career in comparison with Pierre's happiness. The old general growled angrily at his wife when she asked him about the condition of his leg. “What an old fool,” he thought. “Elena Vasilyevna will still be a beauty at 50 years old.”
“It seems that I can congratulate you,” Anna Pavlovna whispered to the princess and kissed her deeply. – If it weren’t for the migraine, I would have stayed.
The princess did not answer; she was tormented by envy of her daughter's happiness.
While seeing off the guests, Pierre remained alone for a long time with Helen in the small living room where they sat down. He had often been alone with Helen before, in the last month and a half, but had never told her about love. Now he felt that it was necessary, but he could not decide to take this last step. He was ashamed; It seemed to him that here, next to Helen, he was taking someone else’s place. This happiness is not for you,” some inner voice told him. - This is happiness for those who do not have what you have. But something had to be said, and he spoke. He asked her if she was happy with this evening? She, as always, answered with her simplicity that the current name day was one of the most pleasant for her.
Ancient witnesses to the history of Samarkand
“The dawn is burning, flashing from the clouds the sparkling green of the domes.
And minarets of wondrous beauty flaunt everywhere like flowers..."
Alisher Navoi
Square Registan, translated means "sandy place" . Registan - administrative and trade and craft center eastern city. Registan in Samarkand- one of the outstanding examples of urban planning art Central Asia, established in the 17th century and consisting of three madrassas - Ulugbek(1417-1420), Sher-Dor(1619-1636) and Tillya-Kari(1647-1660). On it you can "turn pages" thousands of years of history of Samarkand. The whole story is reflected here medieval city. From the north east side commercial building located Chorsu, built in the 18th century. They say that everything roads lead to Rome. Undoubtedly, all roads of Samarkand lead to Registan. Six radial streets converged on the square, at the intersection of which at the beginning 15th century was built by Tim "Tilpak-Furushan". On the northern side of the square, Ulugbek built a caravanserai called Mirzoi. All the streets adjacent to it were clogged with small workshops And benches.
Four years after the construction of the caravanserai on the site where it now stands Sher-Dor, Ulugbek is building a khanaka. In this regard, the shopping arcade had to be dismantled. Everyone who enters this square is seized by a special mood: it seems that after centuries, touts fly here cries of artisans, the hum of the oriental bazaar, heralds' voices reading out the decrees of rulers...
During the time of Amir Timur Registan- home trade area
cities. During the reign of Mirzo Ulugbek, it acquired a ceremonial and official character. However, the importance of the center of public life, trade and craft activities of the city of Registan remains to this day.
Architectural ensembles are an outstanding achievement of creative thought of the 15th century. At this time, the most important urban planning task was the architectural design of Registan Square.
"Oh, miracle! The bulk of it, like a mountain, stands firmly, supporting the sky. The majestic façade is the height of the heavens; the heaviness makes the ridge of the earth tremble.", - words from an ancient Tajik verse that emphasize the scale of the madrasah. 
Built in 1417-1420. Ulugbek madrasah (madrasah is a Muslim spiritual institution from the Arabic "madras" - a place of teaching) during the life of the outstanding scientist was the largest scientific educational institution in Central Asia of the 15th century. Here, in addition to theology, mathematics, astronomy, and philosophy were studied. Lectures were given by the most prominent scientists of the time. For example, I taught an astronomy course "Plato of his era" Salahuddin Musa ibn Muhammad Kazi-Zade-Rumi. There is information that Mirzo Ulugbek himself taught at this school, where he repeatedly held debates with students and scientists. Alisher Navoi listened to lectures here, Abdurakhman Jami studied here. Thus, the madrasah became the center of Central Asian education.
By the 15th century Basic planning techniques for the madrasah were developed. And the type of Central Asian madrasah receives its most brilliant, truly classical solution in the Ulugbek madrasah. The architecture of the building reveals great craftsmanship. The author of the project is considered to be the court architect of Shahrukh, the father of Ulugbek, Kavamaddin Sherazi, the author of famous ensembles in Herat and madrasah in Hargirde. Dimensions of the madrasah(81x51 m, courtyard 30x30 m) created an image of self-affirming grandeur, not inferior to the buildings of Timur’s era. The madrasah has a rectangular plan. To the side area The main façade of the madrasah is facing, the composition of which is determined by a portal, two minarets and sections of walls connecting them, above which the domes of two classrooms rose. The spiral-shaped ornament, contracting upward, emphasizes the slenderness of the minarets, their proportionality, and enhances the feeling of aspiration upward. Northeastern The minaret was straightened in 1932 according to the design of Academician V.G. Shukhov, according to the project and under the supervision Mikhail Fedorovich Mauer. M.F. Mauer developed a unique system of a turning circle and with its help straightened not only a tilting minaret, but also a minaret that unfolded when tilted around its axis. This was an unprecedented case in engineering practice.
Exceptionally rich and diverse architectural madrasah decor. Against the background of the yellowish walls there are various geometric touches laid out with glazed bricks, the mosaic panel on the cheeks and gable of the portal and the majolica cord framing the arch are spectacular. Tympanum The portal is decorated with an ornament of five-pointed and ten-pointed stars depicting a stylized starry sky.
The combination of courage, simplicity of idea, simplicity of technical fittings and accuracy of calculations do honor to the achievements of the masters of that time.
Restorers have rearranged the tympanum of the portal, restored the ornament, cleared and lined the bases of the walls with marble, the cladding of the portal has been restored, the courtyard of the madrasah is being restored, and straightening southeast minaret was carried out in 1965 according to the project of engineer E.M. Handel.
On the site of the dilapidated and destroyed khanaka of Mirzo Ulugbek on the eastern side of the square, Yalangtush-Bahadur() - (military leader, clever politician, ruler of a large feudal estate, energetic governor of the Bukhara khans in Samarkand) builds a madrasah, almost a mirror image of the facade of the opposite Ulugbek madrasah. The Samarkand hakim tried to be in no way inferior to the great ancestors - neither in splendor, nor in the scale of the structure. The base of Sher-Dor is 1.5 m higher than the area of Ulugbek's time. The layout of the madra is 70x56 m, the courtyard is 30x38 m. The composition of the courtyard is traditional: it is surrounded by two floors of hujras (rooms where the students of the madrasah lived), four aivans, and along the main façade - two darskhonas (study rooms). The mosaic part on the portal of the madrasah reads:
"Warlord, commander, fair Yalangtush! If an arrow comes praising his perfection, it is an elegant tongue full of pearls. He built such a madrasa that he brought the earth to zenith of the sky, is the banner of their mutual decoration. It won't reach for years high peak his portal with the power and zeal of the skillful wings of the eagle of the mind. For centuries the skillful one does not reach the top of his forbidden minarets acrobat thoughts along the tightrope of fantasy. When the architect erected the curve of the portal arch with precise accuracy, the heavens, mistaking it for a new moon, bit their finger in surprise".
Along with this inscription in a more modest place it is written in white letters on a black background: "Abdul Jabbar, architect", fantasy which and the work of folk craftsmen embodied in stone and the color of Yalangtush’s ambitious plans. Madrasah Sher-Dor conceived by an architect in style "kosh"(composition of two opposing buildings).
Sher-Dor madrasah was built two hundred years later than its original. And despite the seemingly uniform façade, there is much that is new in it, characteristic of the construction technology of the 17th century, which, along with progressive techniques that speed up and reduce the cost of the construction process, carried with it a slight decrease in the quality of artistic expression. However, the color scheme and execution of individual panel tell us about the high skill of the builders who erected this magnificent building.
Its layout repeats the general composition of the Ulugbek madrasah, but there are differences in the details. Of particular interest is the tympanum above the large portal arch. A golden ocher tiger rushes behind white doe. The sun is depicted in the form of a white disk, with slanting almond-shaped eyes. His face is surrounded by a golden glow. The entire composition is set on a blue background with spiral-shaped shoots in turquoise and golden tones with white flowers scattered across the field. The memorable design of the tympanum determined the name of the Sher-Dor madrasah, which means “Decorated with tigers.”
The tympanum was saved from complete destruction by restorers who completed the work in 1962. Researchers collected the decor from the smallest fragments. Where the mosaic was not preserved, nests from the fallen pieces were fixed, the remaining parts from one half of the tympanum were superimposed on the other so that the pattern was symmetrical.
Having completed the construction of the Sher-Dor madrasah, Yalangtush-Bahadur ten years later began the construction of a madrasah-mosque, which later received the name Tillya-Kari. It was being built no less 14-15 years old.
The construction of Tillya-Kari finally formed the wonderful ensemble of Registan. In order to achieve the unity and integrity of all the structures of the square, the architect subordinated the architecture of the Tillya-Kari madrasah to existing buildings and stretched the façade in such a way as to create a visual closed space. Such a solution could have been proposed by an architect with great skill.
It seemed that the mosque would have to occupy central place
in the overall composition of the madrasah-mosque, but the architect did not create another center on a symmetrical square. Architecture The facade of Tillya-Kari is perceived as a worthy backdrop to two madrasahs located opposite each other. The mosque is compositionally knocked off the main axis and is located on the western side of an enclosed courtyard with one-story hudjras. The main facade is designed in two floors, which helps to balance the large buildings of the Ulugbek and Sher-Dor madrasahs.
Main input portal, facing the square, is cut through by a deep pentagonal niche with two entrances leading to a large enclosed courtyard. The symmetry of the composition in the courtyard is emphasized by small portals in the centers of the courtyard facades. To the left of the entrance along the western facade there is a large mosque. Through the main entrance in the portal niche you can enter the central hall of the mosque, the area of which increases due to the opening of the side walls arched-domed gallery adjacent to the mosque on both sides. Opposite the entrance there is a mihrab, lined with marble, next to the mihrab is a niche pointing to Mecca, and to the right of it is a kind of pulpit (minbar - a place for the preacher) with high marble steps. The courtyard of the mosque is also used for Friday prayers.
The interior of the mosque uses kundal painting(technique of multi-color, gilded painting on a relief ornament). Excessive saturation of the central hall of the mosque with relief painting and gilded, right down to its population on marble panels, testifies to the desire to amaze with luxury and wealth. The abundance of gilding determined the name of the madrasah - Tillya-Kari, which means “Coated with gold”.
Facing madrasah was largely lost. Restorers had to work hard to save surviving fragments and using them to restore the destroyed parts. In 1979, work was completed to restore the gilding of the paintings in the interior of the mosque. Between madrassas Sher-Dor and Tillya-Kori there is a monumental marble tombstone- Dakhma Sheybanidov, at one time established over the family tomb first Uzbek dynasty XVI century.
The word “Registan” is translated from Uzbek as “a place covered with sand” - in ancient times in the Middle East this was the name for any central square of the city. During the reign of Tamerlane, it was here that soldiers gathered before setting off on a campaign. Probably, the ruler’s decrees were also read out in the central square. Trade was in full swing at Registan every day, since Samarkand was one of the most important cities from the very foundation of the Silk Road.
Mirzo Ulugbek, who was Tamerlane's grandson, became not only a ruler, but also a patron of sciences. He himself had an excellent education and made every effort to develop the culture of his country. By order of Ulugbek, at the beginning of the 15th century, the construction of the first madrasah, named after the philanthropist, began on the square. From this time on, the global development of Registan began, which brought Samarkand worldwide fame and a place on the UNESCO list of attractions.
It is believed that from ancient times to the 20th century, public executions of criminals were carried out here. They say that Registan Square was specially sprinkled with sand so that it would absorb the blood of the victims without damaging the beautiful pavement. However, there is no reliable historical evidence for this today. Interestingly, in 1989, the Soviet Union issued a commemorative five-ruble coin, on which a view of the Registan was minted.
Ulugbek Madrasah
Ulugbek Madrasah is the oldest madrasah built on Registan Square. Its construction took only three years: from 1417 to 1420. A mosque and a large observatory were organized on the territory of the school, which made the city one of the most important scientific centers of the East at that time. The ensemble is located on the western side of a vast square. In subsequent years, Ulugbek’s caravanserai and his khanaka were built opposite the madrasah.
The high rectangular facade and pointed arch of the building are made in the best traditions of medieval architecture of the Middle East. Golden painted walls play with complex mosaics in the bright sunlight; the main geometric pattern is made of colored glazed bricks. The portal itself is decorated with filigree script, islimi patterns and ten-pointed stars. All this is evidence of the scientific orientation of the complex.
Minarets rise into the sky from each corner of the rectangular ensemble. Only half of them have survived to this day, since two towers were destroyed by an earthquake around the 18th century. The blue domes of the madrasah amaze the imagination with their pure color and bright radiance, regardless of the time of day. Thanks to the rich wall cladding and bright patterns in blue tones, the entire building does not look bulky. Carved and glazed ceramics are distinguished by a harmonious color palette. Since the decoration with glaze and ornaments completely covers the walls, the entire madrasah shines brightly in the light of the hot midday sun, being a real decoration of the Registan.
The students' cells, as well as the doors of the classrooms, open into the closed square courtyard. Here young people were taught astronomy, theology, philosophy, mathematics and various natural sciences. More than a hundred students could study and live in the madrasah at the same time. The best scientists in the country worked and taught at the school. Ulugbek also gave lectures to students, but he himself decided not to hold the position of rector. It is believed that the famous Eastern philosopher, poet and scientist Abdurahman Jami studied here.
The school began to decline after the new ruler moved the state capital to Bukhara in the 16th century. Some sources of that time say: Samarkand was so empty that wild animals lived within the walls of the collapsing madrassas. Numerous feudal wars of that time turned the once magnificent architectural complex into almost ruins. Ulugbek Madrasah has survived to this day only thanks to large-scale restoration at the beginning of the 20th century.
Sher-Dor Madrasah
Sher-Dor Madrasah is also called the “lion” school, since the walls are decorated with appropriate animal ornaments. The madrasah is located in the eastern part of the Registan, opposite the first building of the square and largely repeats its architecture. This copying is not accidental - the author of the project deliberately used a special technique called “kosh”, characteristic of eastern tradition. Construction began in 1619 on the site of a previously erected khanaka. The former residence of Ulugbek gave most building material for a new school.
The architect was going to create a mirror copy of the first madrasah, but did not take into account that over the past decades the general level of the Registan has risen. For this reason, the structure seems somewhat squat than originally planned. Khan Bahadur became the customer of the second school. Initially, the building was named after him, but for some reason it did not take root, giving way to the popular Sher-Dor.
The modern nickname of the madrasah translates as “decorated with tigers/lions.” The building received it for the magnificent ornamentation with which the central arch is decorated. The pattern depicts two predators rushing after graceful fallow deer. On the backs of each tiger rests a solar disk. The pomp of this building is practically not inferior to that built by Ulugbek. Walls architectural ensemble covered with glazed mosaics, paintings, quotations from the Koran, here you will see rich ornaments and an abundance of gilding. In the middle above the central entrance there is a solar swastika.
The madrasah was built using new technologies, but some violation of the proportions in the future provoked the destruction of the main dome. The architects' developments were supposed to simplify and speed up construction, but it was completed only in 1636. Although the area occupied by this school was not inferior to the building of Ulugbek, much fewer students could live and study here - only about 40. In terms of the level of knowledge and prestige, Sher-Dor was still valued less than the first large madrasah. By the 20th century, this ensemble on Registan Square required no less large-scale restoration work.
Tillya-Kari Madrasah
The name translates as "The Gilded School". The construction of the educational institution began in the middle of the 17th century on the southern side of Registan. The same Khan Bahadur became the initiator and sponsor of the new madrasah. The last ensemble was erected on the site of Ulugbek’s caravanserai, using not only the bricks of the old building, but also the remains of its foundation. Since both Samarkand mosques were destroyed by the start of construction, the khan decided to combine a madrasah and a place for city worship.
The architects worked on Tillya-Kari for about 14 years, finishing school only after the death of the ruler. For this reason, the final finish is less rich, and some carelessness of the builders is felt in the decor. In addition, the madrasah turned out to be smaller, so it successfully balances the composition of two more luxurious buildings on Registan Square.
The facade of the building is clearly divided into two floors; there are two main entrances, equipped in a deep pointed arch. On the left side you can see the large shining blue dome of the mosque. On either side of the façade rise exquisitely decorated minarets. The corner parts are occupied by guldasta - eastern turrets with round domes. The exterior color scheme is dominated by golden colors and painting in the “kundal” style, which is how the madrasah got its name.
In addition to traditional script and geometric patterns, you can see many plant motifs here. This decor successfully dilutes the spectacular, but still very similar buildings of the two other educational institutions. Soon after the completion of construction, an earthquake in the city destroyed the main dome of Tillya-Kari. This element and many other parts of the school had to wait until the 20th century for restoration.
Other structures of the square
Behind Tillya-Kari, on the eastern side, is the Shaybanid mausoleum. This architectural object looks more like a cluster of tombstones than an organized series of burials. The oldest of them dates back to the 16th century; it probably contains the founder of the ruling dynasty, Muhammad Sheibani. Today tourists can freely visit this place at any time of the day.
For a long time, trade was the main source of wealth in Samarkand. The main evidence of the former merchant glory is the Trade Dome (Chorsu), which is located on Registan Square behind the Sher-Dor madrasah. This building was erected in the 15th century, but underwent major restoration in the 18th and 20th centuries. In 2005, during the cleaning of the building, a three-meter layer of dirt was removed from the dome. There was once a market here, but today Chorsu has a modern art gallery. A visit to this exhibition should definitely be included in the tourist program in Samarkand.
Modern Registan
Uzbekistan owes much of the current appearance of this magnificent square to the USSR authorities, who initiated the restoration cultural monuments, however, even after the construction of the madrassas, they were closed to religious instruction and all other activities. The global reconstruction of Registan was completed shortly before the collapse of the country. Such a long restoration period is associated with interruptions in funding, as well as the fact that scientists had to collect bit by bit information about the external and internal decoration of buildings.
During the period of independence of Uzbekistan, the square was finally brought into a modern appearance and improved. Today Registan is the venue for all major celebrations, concerts and festivals of Samarkand. The main event that is celebrated twice a year is music Festival international level Shark Taronalari, therefore, if you want not only to admire the Registan, but also to enjoy a colorful national show, you should time your trip to coincide with the beginning of one of the major holidays. Please note that the square is especially beautiful in the evening, when the architectural lighting is turned on.
For tourists
Address: Registanskaya st. – Registon ko"chasi, Samarkand, Uzbekistan.
You can visit the Registan absolutely free, but individual excursions, entrance to the museum and other additional entertainment will require some costs. The price and variety of such events vary depending on the time of year.
You can visit the square at any time of the day, but museums and other institutions in the area have different opening hours.
It is easy to get to the central square of Samarkand from any part of the city. Most routes public transport make stops near Registan. You can focus on the shiny domes of the madrasah, which are clearly visible from almost everywhere.