New land, how they live there. Discovery of a new land. Development of Novaya Zemlya

And that same morning at 11:32 a.m. over Novaya Zemlya, at an altitude of 4000 m above the land surface, a bomb with a capacity of 50 million tons of TNT was detonated.
The light flash was so bright that, despite the continuous cloud cover, it was visible even at a distance of a thousand kilometers. The swirling giant mushroom has grown to a height of 67 km. By the time of the explosion, while the bomb was slowly falling on a huge parachute from a height of 10,500 m to the calculated detonation point, the Tu-95 carrier aircraft with the crew and its commander, Major Andrei Egorovich Durnovtsev, was already in the safe zone. The commander was returning to his airfield as a lieutenant colonel, a Hero Soviet Union.

Slavsky and Moskalenko, being delegates to the congress, specially flew to the northern test site early in the morning on the day of the experiment to observe the preparation and implementation of the explosion. From a distance of several hundred kilometers from the epicenter, while on board an Il-14 aircraft, they saw a fantastic picture. The impression was completed by the shock wave that overtook their plane.

One of the groups of experiment participants, from a distance of 270 km from the point of explosion, saw not only a bright flash through protective dark glasses, but even felt the impact of a light pulse. In an abandoned village - 400 km from the epicenter - wooden houses were destroyed, and stone ones lost their roofs, windows and doors.

Many hundreds of kilometers from the test site, as a result of the explosion, the conditions for the passage of radio waves changed for almost an hour and radio communications stopped. Those who were at the airfield Kola Peninsula near Olenya, the creators of the bomb and the leaders of the experiment, led by the Chairman of the State Commission, Major General N.I. Pavlov, for 40 minutes did not have a clear idea of ​​what happened and in what condition the crews of the carrier aircraft and the accompanying laboratory aircraft were in Tu-16. And only when the first signs of radio communication with Novaya Zemlya appeared, the command post near Olenya requested in clear text information about the height of the cloud’s rise. The answer was: about 60 km. It became clear that the design of the bomb did not fail.

Meanwhile, the crews of the two planes flying out on the mission, and the documentary filmmakers who were filming at other points, experienced, as circumstances dictated, the most vivid and powerful impressions. The cameramen recalled: “It’s scary to fly, one might say, astride a hydrogen bomb! What if it goes off? Even though it’s on fuse, but still... And there won’t be a molecule left! Unbridled power in it, and what kind of it! The flight time to the target is not very long , and it’s dragging on... We’re on the combat course. The bomb bay doors are open. Behind the silhouette of the bomb there’s a whole bunch of clouds... Have the fuses been removed? Or will they be removed when they’re released? The bomb went and sank in the gray-white mess. doors. The afterburner pilots are leaving the drop site... Zero! Below the plane and somewhere in the distance, the clouds are illuminated by a powerful flash. Behind the hatch, a sea of ​​light has just spread, an ocean of light, and even the layers of clouds have become visible. .. At that moment, our plane came out between two layers of clouds, and there, in this gap, from below, a huge bubble of light orange color appeared. It, like Jupiter - powerful, confident, self-satisfied - slowly, silently creeps up.. Breaking through the seemingly hopeless clouds, it grew and grew. Behind him, as if into a funnel, the whole Earth seemed to be drawn in. The spectacle was fantastic, unreal... at least unearthly"

Historical reference

New Earth ( ancient name Matka) was discovered by Russian Pomors in the 12th century, according to other sources in the 14th-15th centuries. Nenets sailors – Kanin, Timan and Pustoozersk Samoyeds – also took part in the exploration of Novaya Zemlya. The Novaya Zemlya expeditions of the 14th-20th centuries carried out a comprehensive scientific study of the Arctic archipelago. The first Russian government expedition to Novaya Zemlya took place in 1491. The activity of industrialists on Novaya Zemlya in the late 19th and early 20th centuries prompted Russia to defend its national interests by sending patrol ships to the shores of Novaya Zemlya and systematic colonization. The first settlements - the camps of Malye Karmakuly, Matochkin Shar (70-70 of the 19th century), Belushya Guba (1987) were created for the Nenets of Mezen and Pechora districts. The village of Olginsky in Krestovaya Guba (1910) was founded for peasant migrants from the Shenkursky district of the Arkhangelsk region. According to the census of the population of Novaya Zemlya in 1910, 33 people lived in the village of Malye Karmakuly (8 men, 11 women and 14 children), in the village of Belushya Guba 31 people (10, 11 and 10, respectively) and in the village of Olginskoye 16 (6, 6, 4). In total, there were 108 permanent residents in 1910, of which 80 were Nenets. The government not only provided two free flights to the archipelago, but also exempted permanent residents of Novaya Zemlya from military service. Each settler was given a non-repayable subsidy.

In 1917, the Commission for the Management of the Novaya Zemlya Colonies became subordinate to the Arkhangelsk Provincial Zemstvo Administration. The commission additionally included a chairman from Novaya Zemlya industrialists. This commission continued to operate in the first years of Soviet power, during the years of intervention and civil war.

In 1921, the positions of commissioners on the islands of the Arctic Ocean were abolished and their responsibilities were assigned to the first island village Councils or to the heads of fishing artels.

On November 19, 1922, the State Planning Committee adopted a resolution on the settlement of Novaya Zemlya and on the construction of radio stations in Matochkin Shar and Cape Zhelaniya (the northernmost point of the archipelago).

On June 30, 1924, the Presidium of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee approved the Regulations on the Management of the Islands. At the time of independent government, management was under the jurisdiction of the Arkhangelsk Provincial Executive Committee.

On September 16, 1924, the Presidium of the Arkhangelsk Provincial Executive Committee approved a plan for organizing village councils with the rights of volost councils. On the Novaya Zemlya archipelago, the Novzemelsky Village Council was organized with a permanent residence in the settlement of Malye Karmakuly. Before the elections, the powers of members of village councils were transferred to the heads of fishing artels. In 1924, representatives of all the camps of Novaya Zemlya came to Belushya Guba. The first elections of the island Council of Deputies, in which Ilya Konstantinovich Vylko was elected chairman of the island Council, took place on March 15, 1925. This day is considered the day of the formation of local government bodies on Novaya Zemlya.

From this time on, a report on the planned development of Novaya Zemlya begins. In July 1925, the Council of People's Commissars of the USSR exempted enterprises located on Novaya Zemlya from trade taxes, and the entire settled population from paying all state direct taxes and fees. Residential buildings, a boarding school for children from all camps, a hospital, medical centers, canteens with a bakery, baths, and shops are being built. Polar stations were put into operation at Cape Zhelaniya, in Russian Harbor, Cape Stolbovaya, Blagopoluchiya Bay, camps were created: Lagernoye, Russian Harbor, Cape Zhelaniye, Litke, Arkhangelskaya Guba, Rusanova, Smidovichi on the Admiralty Peninsula, on the island. Pakhtusova. Get started research work Novaya Zemlya Geological Expedition of the Northern Geological Exploration Trust (headed by N.N. Mustafi), Copper Party of the Moscow Geological Exploration Institute, headed by V.V. Ananyev), geological exploration party of the Northern Geological Exploration Trust (geologist V.P. Ivanov). The ice sheet is being studied under the leadership of the head of the glaciological station in Russian Harbor M.M. Ermolaeva.

Hunting and production of sea animals is developing. Novaya Zemlya fishermen supplied the mainland with the skins of polar bears and arctic foxes, sea animals, walrus tusks, deer wool and murrelet, deer meat, bird meat and eggs, eider down, commercial fish - loin, omul.

At the turn of the 1930s, the first stage of Novaya Zemlya colonization ended: an integral hunting and fishing system was created on the islands, a network of settlements with a socio-cultural sphere was formed, a centralized supply of food, goods and everything necessary for life and activity was established, a transport scheme for the export of products was formed fisheries, a structure has been created to ensure end-to-end maritime passage through the seas of the Arctic Ocean. Islands of the Arctic Ocean since 1929 were allocated as a separate zoning unit, the population increased. Norwegian fishermen and buyers were forced out of the Novaya Zemlya water area.

Before the outbreak of World War II, there were 12 permanent settlements on the archipelago.

The Second World War gave the archipelago a completely new specificity, assigning it the role of an active Arctic outpost of the country. In order to organize the defense of the archipelago and the western sector of the Arctic from the actions of raiders, enemy submarines, its sea and air landings, the protection of sea communications and the Northern Sea Route on August 18, 1942. By order of the People's Commissar of the Navy, Novaya Zemlya was formed naval base as part of the White Sea Flotilla. The necessary military facilities were erected in the shortest possible time; on September 10, the construction of the airfield in Rogachevo was completed; on September 25, naval airfield in Samoyed Bay, piers are equipped in Belushya Guba Bay.

By a resolution of the Central Committee of the CPSU and the Council of Ministers of the USSR (July 31, 1954), it was decided to create the Novaya Zemlya (Northern) nuclear test site on Novaya Zemlya and resettle the entire civilian population. At this time, 536 people (138 families) lived on the archipelago.

By resolutions of the Council of Ministers of the USSR and the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR, a decision was made to abolish the Novaya Zemlya Island Council of Working People's Deputies.

July 15, 1957 At a narrowed meeting of the executive committee of the Arkhangelsk Regional Council of Deputies, a decision was made to resettle the indigenous population

To regulate measures to resettle the indigenous inhabitants of Novaya Zemlya to the mainland, a number of decisions were made.

Let us present an extract from the resolution of the Council of Ministers of the USSR N 724 348 dated July 27, 1957.

“Measures for the resettlement of the civilian population from the Novaya Zemlya islands:

1. To the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR (Comrade Yasnov) and the Arkhangelsk Regional Executive Committee (Comrade Novikov):

a) before November 1, 1957, resettle the civilian population of 298 people from the Novaya Zemlya islands to other areas of the Arkhangelsk region for permanent residence;

b) to abolish, from July 15, 1957, on the islands of Novaya Zemlya a boarding school, a hospital with a paramedic station, a police station, a communications center, and a red tent;

c) employ the entire working-age population being resettled from the Novaya Zemlya islands;

d) assign, as an exception, pensions to those resettled from the Novaya Zemlya islands on the basis established for workers and employees, regardless of their length of service as a worker or employee;

e) submit a petition to the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the RSFSR to abolish, as of July 15, 1957, the Island Council of Workers' Deputies on the Novaya Zemlya islands.

2. Oblige the Ministry of Trade of the RSFSR (Comrade Lukashev) to close, before July 15, 1957, the Industrial Trade Office with fishing areas and trading posts located on the Novaya Zemlya islands.

3. Write off the debt of hunters and fishermen to the Novaya Zemlya Promtorgkontoire of the Ministry of Trade of the RSFSR in the amount of 212 thousand rubles.

5. Oblige the USSR Ministry of Defense (Comrade Belokoskova, Comrade Gorshkova):

a) build:

in Arkhangelsk there are five (8-apartment) block houses with a boiler room;

on o. Kolguev five (2-apartment) cobblestone houses, a bathhouse, a laundry and a power plant;

in Amderma there is one (8-apartment) house;

b) transport the resettled population and material assets of the Novaya Zemlya Promtorg office free of charge using Northern Fleet transport;

c) pay, at the expense of the Ministry of Defense, an allowance to those resettled to the mainland in the amount of 300 rubles (on Kolguev Island 1000 rubles) for each person.

The measures were agreed upon with the Arkhangelsk Regional Executive Committee (signed by Serdichev), with the Ministry of Trade of the RSFSR (signed by Lukashev), with Glavsevtorg (signed by Blokha).”

In 1958 executive committee The Arkhangelsk Regional Council of People's Deputies issued State Act A-1 No. 579002 for the right to indefinite and free use of land for the location of the State Central landfill.

After appropriate approval by the government, construction began on the 6th State Central Test Site (6GCP), which received the code name “Object-700”. The birthday of the test site is considered to be September 17, 1954. On this day, a directive from the General Staff of the Navy with the staffing structure of the new military unit was signed. It included: experimental scientific and engineering units, energy and water supply services, a fighter aviation regiment, a transport aviation detachment, a division of ships and special purpose vessels, an emergency rescue service division, a communications center, logistics support units, etc.

From November 1954 to September 1955, the first head of the Navy training ground was Hero of the Soviet Union, Captain 1st Rank V.G. Starikov. For more than ten years, Rear Admiral P.F. Fomin headed the corresponding department of the Navy and directed the activities of the training ground, after whom one of the streets in the village of Belushya Guba was later named.

In the summer of 1954, it was delivered to the Novaya Zemlya archipelago by ships of the Northern Fleet personnel ten construction battalions. In harsh Arctic conditions, dedicated work was carried out to prepare various technical structures, laboratory and residential premises and other facilities related to the activities of the test site. And by September of the following year, 1955, “Object - 700” was prepared to carry out the first underwater nuclear explosion.

A new stage is beginning on Novaya Zemlya - the period of testing nuclear weapons with the aim of creating and improving the nuclear shield of our state. Total on Novaya Zemlya since September 21, 1955 to October 24, 1990 132 nuclear explosions were carried out with a total power of TNT equivalent of 265.3 Mt.

In connection with the liquidation of local self-government bodies, control actually passes to military authorities, but throughout the years of the existence of the Novaya Zemlya training ground there were representatives of the people's power. As a rule, the command and military personnel of the training ground were elected by deputies of the Arkhangelsk Regional Assembly of Deputies and members of the regional party committee. In addition to performing special tasks in the interests of the country’s security, a lot of work was carried out in the populated areas of the island in the socio-cultural sphere

Interest in local self-government re-emerged in the Soviet Union in the early 90s. This was reflected in the USSR law “On general principles local self-government and local economy in the USSR" (see VSND of the USSR and the Supreme Council of the USSR. - 1990 - No. 6, 44).

With the adoption of the RSFSR Law “On Local Self-Government in the RSFSR,” the process of reforming local authorities and forming local self-government bodies began in Russia.

The determining factor in the formation of the modern model of organizing local self-government was the adoption of the Constitution on December 12, 1993 Russian Federation, which recognized the need for the existence of local self-government and its legal guarantees at the legislative level. The process of reforming local self-government was based not only on Federal legislation, but also on Decrees of the President of the Russian Federation. With the adoption of regulatory legal acts, a new stage in the development of the legal framework of local self-government began.

We can distinguish four main, objectively established stages in the formation of the organizational and legal basis of local self-government in modern Russia.

The first stage is from 1990 to 1993.

Second stage - from 1993 to 1995

The third stage - from 1995 to 2003

The fourth stage is from 2003 to the present.

Taking into account the peculiarity of the tasks facing the Central Test Site of Russia, located on the territory of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago, the special regime of access and stay, the increased secrecy of the work performed, the formation of local government bodies began from the end of the third stage. This was facilitated by such factors as the social composition of the population (the majority of the population are military personnel), the absence of indigenous residents, and the infrastructure of settlements, created primarily to solve the tasks of the Central training ground for its intended purpose. In practice, the formation of local self-government began with the entry into force of Federal Law No. 131.

In order to coordinate and work out organizational issues for the creation of a Municipal entity on Novaya Zemlya, to establish closer contact with the command of the Central Command of the Russian Federation, with residents of villages in solving assigned tasks, in 1998, by a decree of the Administration of the Arkhangelsk Region, the deputy commander for educational work, captain 1st rank Khimichuk Nikolai Vasilyevich, was approved head of the representative office on the Novaya Zemlya archipelago on a voluntary basis. On June 28, 1999, a general meeting of military personnel, workers and employees, members of their families of the Belushya Guba garrison of military unit 77510 “On the creation municipality on the territory of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago." At the meeting, it was decided: to approve the creation of a municipal entity on the territory of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago; petition to set a date for the election of a representative body.

The Arkhangelsk Regional Assembly of Deputies of the second convocation (twenty-third session) on July 7, 1999 adopted decision No. 670 on the formation of the municipal entity “New Earth”.

By-elections to the Council of Deputies of the Novaya Zemlya municipality were held in June 2000. The following were elected to the council: E.B. Yatsenko, D.B. Kovalskaya, O.A. Zimbitskaya, V.P. Brilev, T.N. Razumova, G.B. Potapov, I.I. Oleksina, S.I. Terletskaya, L.N. Korobova. Captain 2nd rank reserve V.P. was elected Chairman of the Council of Deputies of the Novaya Zemlya Municipal District. Brilev. By decision of the Council of Deputies dated September 27, 2000 No. 11, Viktor Ignatievich Butusov was approved and hired as head of the administration on a contract basis.

For a number of reasons, the Council of Deputies resigned early in 2003 and on December 11, 2003, early elections of the Council of Deputies of the Novaya Zemlya Municipal Association took place. Vladimir Yuryevich Kertsev was elected Chairman of the Council of Deputies, Vladimir Vasilievich Smetanin was appointed Head of Administration.

On March 2, 2008, the next elections of the Council of Deputies and the Head of the municipality of the urban district “Novaya Zemlya” took place.

Igor Albertovich Semushin was elected Chairman of the Council of Deputies, Vladimir Vasilievich Smetanin was elected Head of the municipality of the Novaya Zemlya urban district.

The composition of the Council of Deputies of the 3rd convocation is still in effect today. Head of the municipality of the urban district "Novaya Zemlya" Smetanin V.V. resigned early in connection with the transition to public service in early elections on November 1, 2009. Musin Zhigansha Keshovich was elected head of the municipality of the Novaya Zemlya urban district.

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Since January 2006, 229 municipalities have been operating in the Arkhangelsk region. The municipal formation of the urban district "Novaya Zemlya" is currently one of the few non-subsidized in the region.

In 2009, local government bodies of the municipal municipality “Novaya Zemlya” were vested with the following state powers with a list of tasks to be solved:

a) powers in the field of administrative offenses:

Creation, organization and support of the activities of administrative commissions;

Consideration of cases of administrative offenses under the jurisdiction of administrative commissions.

b) powers to create and operate commissions for minors and protect their rights:

Education, formation and organization of activities of territorial commissions for the affairs of minors and the protection of their rights;

Exercising the powers of the established commissions on juvenile affairs, including the consideration of cases of administrative offenses subordinated to the commissions on juvenile affairs in accordance with the regional law “On Administrative Offenses”.

c) powers to register and record citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies in connection with resettlement from the Far North and equivalent areas:

Accept from citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies in connection with resettlement from the regions of the Far North and equivalent areas, documents necessary for registration and registration of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies;

Register citizens' applications for housing subsidies;

Check documents submitted by citizens for the purpose of registration and registration of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies;

Make decisions on the registration of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies, or on refusal to register, and also send applicants notifications about the decisions made;

Establish and maintain accounting files for citizens registered as eligible to receive housing subsidies;

Make decisions on deregistration of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies, as well as send notifications to these citizens about decisions made;

Post lists of citizens eligible to receive housing subsidies for public viewing in accessible places;

Provide the necessary information on lists of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies, upon written requests from citizens;

Annually create lists of citizens entitled to receive housing subsidies by category, approve them and, before February 1, send certified copies of the generated lists to the executive body of state power of the Arkhangelsk region, authorized by the Government of the Arkhangelsk region15;

Send citizens who are supposed to be issued state housing certificates notifications about inclusion in the preliminary list of recipients of housing subsidies;

Receive from citizens Required documents for issuing state housing certificates, as well as checking the specified documents;

Store and issue state housing certificates, as well as maintain registers of issued state housing certificates;

Accept applications from owners of state housing certificates for their replacement;

Conclude agreements with citizens on the termination of social rental contracts for residential premises occupied by them or contracts for the exchange of residential premises belonging to them for state housing certificates;

Inform citizens about credit institutions participating in the implementation of the Federal Law “On housing subsidies for citizens leaving the Far North and equivalent areas.”

d) powers to organize and carry out guardianship and trusteeship activities:

Carry out logistical, technical, financial, organizational, information and legal support for the activities of local administration bodies exercising state powers to organize and carry out guardianship and trusteeship activities in accordance with the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, the Family Code of the Russian Federation, the Labor Code of the Russian Federation, the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, the Civil Procedure Code of the Russian Federation, Federal Law of June 24, 1999 No. 120-FZ "On the fundamentals of the system for the prevention of neglect and juvenile delinquency", other federal laws and other regulatory legal acts of the Russian Federation, regional laws and other regulatory legal acts of authorities state authorities of the Arkhangelsk region.

Currently, the village of Belushya Guba is the capital of the Central Test Site of the Russian Federation. Everything you need for a normal life is here high school for 560 people, kindergarten for 80 beds, 17 residential buildings, 3 hotels, shops, TV and radio station "Orbita", a branch hospital with 100 beds, a clinic, an Officers' House. The garrison's life support systems are functioning stably. In the spring of 1997, in the village of Belushya Guba, the foundation stone and site of the future chapel in the name of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker were consecrated by Bishop Tikhon of Arkhangelsk and Kholmogory. Maintained and updated memorable places and village signs. On this moment On the territory of the municipality of the Novaya Zemlya urban district there are 4 municipal institutions and 3 municipal enterprises.

Geography

Geographical information

Novaya Zemlya - an archipelago in Severny Arctic Ocean between the Barents and Kara seas. Consists of two big islands– Northern and Southern, separated by the narrow Matochkin Shar Strait, and many small ones. The length from southwest to northeast is 925 km. The area of ​​all islands is more than 83,000 sq. km. In the south, the Kara Gate Strait separates it from Vaygach Island.

Structurally, Novaya Zemlya is the northern continuation Ural mountains. The mountains are deeply dissected by river and glacial valleys. In the southern part of the South Island, the terrain decreases and turns into a plain with low hills (up to 100-150m). Permafrost is widespread throughout.

The river network (especially on the North Island) is poorly developed. More significant rivers flow south of Northern Sulmeneva Bay. On South Island, in the southwestern part, the most big river- Unnamed. Rivers freeze to the bottom in winter.

The climate of Novaya Zemlya is arctic and harsh. Winter is long and cold, with strong winds and snowstorms.

About half the area of ​​the North Island is occupied by glaciers, including about 20,000 sq. km of continuous ice cover, extending almost 400 km in length and up to 70-75 km in width. In some places, the ice descends into fjords or breaks off into the open sea in wide glaciers, forming ice barriers and giving rise to icebergs.

Northern Island and part of the Southern Island belong to the zone arctic deserts, most of The South Island is part of the tundra zone. Many areas are swampy.

Since the times of favorable climatic periods, such “southern” heat-loving plants as Novaya Zemlya have been preserved, such as marsh cinquefoil, dwarf birch, cloudberry, blueberry, lingonberry, some types of sorrel, buttercups, fireweed, primrose, and forget-me-not.

The steep slopes are dominated by poppies, rosea rosea, saxifrage, pennyweed, bluegrass, valerian, and buttercups.

There are good moss mushrooms. Flowering plants (northern pike, saxifrage, grains, polar poppy) are found on both islands.

All birds living on Novaya Zemlya are migratory. Waterfowl (ducks, loons, geese, swans) and waders are found mainly in lakes, swampy lowlands, rivers and streams. In the Arctic spring, after the “mating season,” they split into pairs and build their nests near the water.

Small passerines (Lapland plantain, snow bunting, horned lark, common wheatear, common redpoll), predators – buzzard and snowy owl – build their nests in dry places.

Mammals include the arctic fox, lemming, Novaya Zemlya subspecies of reindeer and polar bear.

In Belushya Bay and Rogachev Bay, marine mammals are common - sea hare, ringed seal, beluga whale. Previously, in the XIV-XVIII centuries, the Atlantic walrus and seals swam here. To date, these animals have been so severely exterminated that they have practically disappeared from the Novaya Zemlya region. Only in the north of the archipelago are small walrus rookeries preserved.

Short

General characteristics of the municipal district "Novaya Zemlya"

The municipal district of the Novaya Zemlya urban district includes the entire Novaya Zemlya archipelago. The area of ​​the municipality is 137,800 km², including a land area of ​​79,788 km². The total length of the boundaries of the municipality is 2,241 km. Land with a total area of ​​46,580 km² were transferred and intended for the needs of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation.

The area of ​​the municipality of the Novaya Zemlya urban district is 0.81% of the territory of the Russian Federation, 23.46% of the territory of the Arkhangelsk region.

About half the area North Island occupied by glaciers. On an area of ​​about 20,000 km² there is a continuous ice cover, extending almost 400 km in length and up to 70 - 75 km in width. The ice thickness is over 300 m. In a number of places, the ice descends into fjords or breaks off into the open sea, forming ice barriers and giving rise to icebergs. total area Novaya Zemlya's glaciation area is 29,767 km², of which about 92% is cover glaciation and 7.9% is mountain glaciers. On the South Island there are areas of arctic tundra.

Settlements: working village of Belushya Guba, village of Rogachevo. Currently, personnel live and serve in the village of Severny, at the Malye Karmakuly weather station, at the Pankovaya Zemlya and Chirakino helipads.

The administrative center is the working settlement of Belushya Guba, founded in 1897.

On the territory of the municipality there are known deposits of minerals, mainly ores of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, zinc, silver, copper, etc. There are known deposits of minerals, mainly ores of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. The most significant is the Rogachevsko-Taininsky manganese ore region, according to forecast estimates - the largest in Russia. Manganese ores - carbonate and oxide. Carbonate ores, with an average manganese content of 8-15%, are distributed over an area of ​​​​about 800 km², the predicted resources of category P2 are 260 million tons. Oxide ores, with a manganese content of 16-24 to 45%, are concentrated mainly in the north of the region - in the North Taininsky ore field, the predicted resources of category P2 are 5 million tons. According to the results of technological tests, the ores are suitable for producing metallurgical concentrate. All oxide ore deposits can be mined by open pit mining.

Several ore fields (Pavlovskoye, Severnoye, Perevalnoye) with deposits of polymetallic ores have been identified. The Pavlovskoye deposit, located within the ore field of the same name, is so far the only deposit on Novaya Zemlya for which balance reserves have been approved.

The reserves of the Pavlovsk deposit estimated and accepted for the State Balance are 1,967,000 tons of zinc, 453,000 tons of lead and 672 tons of silver. The total lead and zinc potential within the single proposed open-pit mine, taking into account predicted resources, is 9.4 million tons. In total, the deposit is estimated at 21.4 million tons.

The remaining ore fields have been studied much less. The northern ore field, in addition to lead and zinc, contains silver (content 100-200 g/t), gallium (0.1-0.2%), indium, germanium, yttrium, ytterbium, and niobium as associated components.

Occurrences of native copper and cuprous sandstones are known on the South Island.

All known ore fields require additional study, which is difficult natural conditions, insufficient economic development and the special status of the archipelago.

In the waters of the seas washing the archipelago, a number of geological structures and promising oil and gas fields have been identified. The Shtokman gas condensate field, the largest on the Russian shelf, is located 300 km from the coast of Novaya Zemlya.

The population of the municipal formation urban district "Novaya Zemlya" as of 10/01/2011 is 2372 people.

Transport distance of the administrative center of the municipality from the main transport hubs.

The exact date of origin of the name Novaya Zemlya is not known. Perhaps it was formed as a copy of the Nenets Edey-Ya “New Earth”. If so, then the name could have arisen during the first visits to the islands by Russians in the 11th-12th centuries. The use of the name Novaya Zemlya at the end of the 15th century is recorded by foreign sources.

The Pomors also used the name Matka, the meaning of which remains unclear. It is often understood as “nurse, rich land.”

And the land there is really rich, but not in plants, but in animals, which were hunted by commercial hunters. Here, for example, is how the artist A. Borisov wrote about the riches of the Arctic at the end of the 18th century, having visited Yugorsky Shar and Vaigach:

“Wow, how nice it would be to live here in this region rich in fisheries! In our places (Vologda province), look how a man works all year round day after day, and only barely, with all his modesty, can feed himself and his family. Not so here! Here sometimes one week is enough to provide for yourself whole year, if traders did not exploit the Samoyeds so much, if the Samoyeds were at least somewhat able to preserve and manage this rich property...”

Based on the Pomeranian uterus (compass), the name is associated with the need to use a compass for sailing to Novaya Zemlya. But, as V.I. Nemirovich-Danchenko wrote, “Svenske, in his description of Novaya Zemlya, says that the name of the Matochkin Shar strait comes from the word - matochka (small compass). This is not true: Matochkin’s ball is called Matochkin’s in contrast to other small Novaya Zemlya balls, since it crosses the entire Matka, that is, the hardened land of this archipelago.”

In Finnish, Karelian, Veps matka - “path, road”, in Estonian matk “journey, wandering”. The term is widely represented in the toponymy of the North (cf. Matkoma, Matkozero, Irdomatka, etc.), it was mastered by the Pomors, and perhaps the name Matka is associated with it.

Novaya Zemlya is located on the border of two seas. In the west it is washed by the Barents Sea, and in the east by the Kara Sea.

The archipelago consists of two large islands and many small ones. In general, we can say that Novaya Zemlya is two islands: South and North, separated by the narrow Matochkin Shar Strait.

Distance from the northern point Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) to the North Pole is only about one and a half thousand kilometers.

Cape Flissingsky of the North Island is the easternmost point of Europe.

Novaya Zemlya belongs to the Arkhangelsk region, as well as another neighboring Arctic archipelago - Franz Josef Land. That is, residents of the Arkhangelsk region, having visited Novaya Zemlya, will actually not even leave their subject, despite the fact that from Arkhangelsk to Novaya Zemlya in a straight line is about 900 kilometers, almost the same as to Moscow, Estonia or Norway.

The Barents Sea, along which Russian Pomors had been sailing for several centuries, was visited in 1594, 1595 and 1596 by expeditions led by the Dutch navigator Willem Barents and, although he was not even the first foreign traveler to visit Novaya Zemlya, the sea in 1853 was named after him. This name has been retained to this day, despite the fact that in Russia in the old days this sea was called the Northern, Siversky, Moscow, Russian, Arctic, Pechora and most often Murmansk.

Something about the geology and climate of the archipelago

Novaya Zemlya in the west is washed by the relatively warm Barents Sea (compared to the Kara Sea), and due to this the weather there can be quite warm, and even, oddly enough, sometimes warmer than on the coast. Weather forecast on Novaya Zemlya now (in Belushaya Guba), as well as for comparison on the coast (in Amderma):

The so-called “Novaya Zemlya bora” is very interesting and noteworthy - a strong, cold, gusty local wind, reaching up to 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-55 m/s! Such winds off the coast often reach the strength of a hurricane and weaken with distance from the coast.

The word Bora (bora, Βορέας, boreas) is translated as cold north wind.

Bora occurs when a flow of cold air encounters a hill on its way; Having overcome the obstacle, the bora hits the coast with enormous force. The vertical dimensions of the bora are several hundred meters. As a rule, it affects small areas where low mountains directly border the sea.

The Novaya Zemlya forest is caused by the presence of a mountain range stretching from south to north along the island. Therefore, it is celebrated on the west and east coasts South Island. Characteristic signs of "bora" on west coast is a strong gusty and very cold wind, northeast or southeast directions. On the east coast - winds from the west or north-west.

The greatest frequency of the Novaya Zemlya bora is observed in November - April, often lasting 10 days or more. During bora, all visible air is filled with thick snow and resembles smoking smoke. Visibility in these cases often reaches its complete absence - 0 meters. Such storms are dangerous for people and equipment and require residents to use forethought and caution when moving in case of emergency.

The Novaya Zemlya Ridge influences not only the direction, but also the speed of the wind crossing it. mountain range contributes to an increase in wind speed on the leeward side. With an easterly wind, air accumulates on the windward side, which, when passing over the ridge, leads to air collapses, accompanied by strong gusty winds, the speed of which reaches 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-45 m/s (in the area of ​​the village of Severny up to 45-55 m/s).

New Earth is covered with “thorns” in many places. If I’m not mistaken, this is slate and phyllite (from the Greek phýllon - leaf) - a metamorphic rock, which in structure and composition is transitional between clayey and mica slate. In general, almost everywhere in the south of New Zealand where we visited, the land is like this. That’s why the running dogs here always had wounded paws.

Previously, when Europeans had boots with leather soles, they constantly risked tearing their shoes. There is a story on this topic told by Stepan Pisakhov in his diary: “In the first days, I decided to go away from the camp. She saw Malanya, started shaking, hurried, and caught up. - Where are you going? - To Chum Mountain. Malanya looked at my feet - I was wearing boots - How are you going back? Are you going to roll yourself sideways? - Malanya explained that the shoes would soon break on sharp rocks. - I'll bring you pima. I waited.

Malanya brought new seal pimas with seal soles. - Put it on. In these pymas it’s good to walk on pebbles and you can walk on water. How much do pima cost? - One and a half rubles. It seemed cheap to me. Surprise resulted in a question: “Both?” Malanya laughed a long time and even sat down on the ground. Waving her hands, she swayed. And through laughter she said - No, just one! You wear one, I’ll wear one. You step your foot, and I step your foot. So let's go. Malanya laughed and told an old Nenets fairy tale about people with one leg who can only walk by hugging each other - They live there loving each other. There is no malice there. They don’t deceive there,” Malanya finished and fell silent, thought, and looked into the distance of the tale being told. Malanya was silent for a long time. The dogs have calmed down, curled up in balls, and are sleeping. Only the dogs’ ears tremble with every new sound.”

Modern life on Novaya Zemlya

First of all, many people associate Novaya Zemlya with a nuclear test site and testing of the most powerful hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind - the 58-megaton Tsar Bomba. Therefore, there is a widespread myth that after nuclear tests it is impossible to live on Novaya Zemlya due to radiation. In fact, to put it mildly, everything is completely different.

On Novaya Zemlya there are military towns - Belushya Guba and Rogachevo, as well as the village of Severny (without permanent population). In Rogachevo there is a military airfield - Amderma-2.

There is also a base for underground testing, mining and construction work. On Novaya Zemlya, the Pavlovskoye, Severnoye and Perevalnoe ore fields with deposits of polymetallic ores were discovered. The Pavlovskoye field is so far the only field on Novaya Zemlya for which balance reserves have been approved and which is planned to be developed.

2,149 people live in Belushaya Guba, 457 people live in Rogachevo. Of these, 1,694 are military personnel; civilians - 603 people; children - 302 people. Currently, personnel also live and serve in the village of Severny, at the Malye Karmakuly weather station, at the Pankovaya Zemlya and Chirakino helipads.

On Novaya Zemlya there is an Officers' House, a soldiers' club, sports complex"Arktika", a secondary school, a kindergarten "Punochka", five canteens, a military hospital. There is also a food store "Polyus", a department store "Metelitsa", a vegetable store "Spolokhi", a cafe "Fregat", a children's cafe "Skazka", a store "North". The names are just mi-mi-mi :)

Novaya Zemlya is considered a separate municipal entity with the status of an urban district. The administrative center is the village of Belushya Guba. Novaya Zemlya is a ZATO (closed administrative-territorial entity). This means that you need a pass to enter the urban district.

Website of the municipal formation “Novaya Zemlya” - http://nov-zemlya.ru.

Until the early 1990s. existence itself settlements on Novaya Zemlya was a state secret. The postal address of the village of Belushya Guba was “Arkhangelsk-55”, the village of Rogachevo and the “points” located in the south - “Arkhangelsk-56”. The postal address of the “points” located in the north is “ Krasnoyarsk region, Dikson Island-2". This information has now been declassified.

There is also a weather station called Malye Karmakuly on Novaya Zemlya. And in the north of Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) there is a stronghold of the Russian Arctic National Park, where its employees live in the summer.

How to get to Novaya Zemlya

Regular planes fly to Novaya Zemlya. Since November 5, 2015, Aviastar Petersburg has been operating passenger and cargo flights on the route Arkhangelsk (Talagi) - Amderma-2 - Arkhangelsk (Talagi) on An-24 and An-26 aircraft.

For questions regarding purchasing tickets, booking tickets, dates and times of departure for regular flights civil aviation in Novaya Zemlya, you can contact representatives of Aviastar Petersburg LLC on weekdays from 9.30 to 19.00.

Representative of Aviastar tel. +7 812 777 06 58, Moskovskoe shosse, 25, building 1, letter B. Representative in Arkhangelsk tel. 8 921 488 00 44. Representative in Belushya Guba tel. 8 911 597 69 08.

You can also get to Novaya Zemlya by sea - by boat. Personally, we visited there exactly like that.

History of Novaya Zemlya

It is believed that Novaya Zemlya was discovered by Russians already in the 12th-15th centuries. The first written evidence of the presence and fishing activities of Russians on the archipelago dates back to the 16th century and belongs to foreigners. Indisputable material evidence of the long-standing presence of Russians on the archipelago was recorded in 1594 and 1596-1597. in the diaries of De Fer - a participant in the Dutch expeditions led by Willem Barents.

By the first arrival of Europeans to Novaya Zemlya, unique spiritual and fishing traditions of Russian Pomors had already developed here. Novaya Zemlya was visited by fishermen seasonally to hunt sea animals (walruses, seals, polar bears), fur-bearing animals, birds, as well as collect eggs and catch fish. Hunters obtained walrus tusks, arctic fox, bear, walrus, seal and deer skins, walrus, seal, beluga and bear “fat” (blub), omul and char, geese and other birds, as well as eider down.

The Pomors had fishing huts on Novaya Zemlya, but they did not dare to stay there for the winter. And not so much because of the harsh climate, but because of the terrible polar disease - scurvy.

Industrialists brought timber and bricks themselves to build huts. The houses were heated with firewood brought with them on the ship. According to surveys conducted among industrialists in 1819, “there are no natural inhabitants; nothing has been heard of since the beginning of centuries,” i.e. any indigenous inhabitants of Novaya Zemlya were unknown to the fishermen.

Discovery of Novaya Zemlya by foreign navigators

Due to the fact that Spain and Portugal dominated the southern sea routes, in the 16th century English sailors were forced to look for a northeastern passage to the countries of the East (in particular, to India). This is how they got to Novaya Zemlya.

First unsuccessful expedition:

In 1533, H. Willoughby left England and apparently reached the southern coast of Novaya Zemlya. Turning back, the two ships of the expedition were forced to winter at the mouth of the Varsina River in eastern Murman. The following year, the Pomors accidentally stumbled upon these ships with the corpses of 63 English winter participants.

The following unfinished expeditions, but without casualties:

In 1556, an English ship under the command of S. Borro reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya, where it met the crew of a Russian boat. Ice accumulation in the Yugorsky Shar Strait forced the expedition to return to England. In 1580, the English expedition of A. Pete and C. Jackman on two ships reached Novaya Zemlya, but solid ice in the Kara Sea also forced them to sail to their homeland.

Expeditions with casualties, but also achieved goals:

In 1594, 1595 and 1596, three trade sea expeditions headed from Holland to India and China through the northeast passage. One of the leaders of all three expeditions was the Dutch navigator Willem Barents. In 1594, he passed along the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya and reached its northern tip. Along the way, the Dutch repeatedly encountered material evidence of the Russians’ presence on Novaya Zemlya.

On August 26, 1596, Barents' ship was sunk off the northeastern coast of the archipelago, in Ice Harbor. The Dutch had to build a dwelling on the shore from driftwood and ship planks. During the winter, two crew members died. On June 14, 1597, abandoning the ship, the Dutch sailed in two boats from Ice Harbor. Near the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya, in the area of ​​Ivanova Bay, V. Barents and his servant died, and a little later another member of the expedition died.

On the southern coast of the archipelago, in the area of ​​the Costin Shar Strait, the Dutch met two Russian boats and received rye bread and smoked birds from them. By boat, the surviving 12 Dutchmen reached Kola, where they accidentally met the second ship of the expedition and arrived in Holland on October 30, 1597.

Subsequent expeditions:

Then the English navigator G. Hudson visited Novaya Zemlya in 1608 (during landing on the archipelago, he discovered a Pomeranian cross and the remains of a fire); in 1653, three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya.

Further, until 1725-1730, Novaya Zemlya was visited by the Danes, Dutch, and English, and at this point the voyages of foreign ships to the archipelago ceased until the 19th century. The most outstanding of the expeditions were the two Dutch expeditions of V. Barents. The main merit of Barents and De-Fer was the compilation of the first map of the western and northern coasts of Novaya Zemlya.

Study of Novaya Zemlya by Russians

It all started with two unsuccessful expeditions:

In 1652, by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the expedition of Roman Neplyuev set off to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver and copper ores, precious stones and pearls. Most of the 83 participants and Neplyuev himself died during the winter south of Dolgiy Island.

In 1671, an expedition led by Ivan Neklyudov was sent to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver ore and to build a wooden fortress on the archipelago. In 1672, all members of the expedition died.

Finally, relative luck:

In 1760-1761 Savva Loshkin first sailed on a boat from south to north along the eastern shore of Novaya Zemlya, spending two years on it. One of his winter quarters was apparently built at the mouth of the Savina River. Loshkin went around north coast and along the western shore descended to the south.

In 1766, the helmsman Yakov Chirakin sailed on the ship of the Arkhangelsk merchant A. Barmin from the Barents Sea to the Kara Strait of Matochkin Shar. Having learned about this, Arkhangelsk Governor A.E. Golovtsyn agreed with Barmin to send the ship with the expedition.

In July 1768, an expedition led by F.F. Rozmyslova went on a three-masted kochmara to the western mouth of the Matochkin Shar Strait to map the strait and measure its depth. The objectives of the expedition were: to pass, if possible, through Matochkin Shar and the Kara Sea to the mouth of the Ob River and to study the possibility of opening a route from the Kara Sea to North America. From August 15, 1768, the expedition carried out measurements and studies of Matochkina Shar. At the eastern mouth of the strait - Tyulenyaya Bay and on Cape Drovyanoy, two huts were built, where, dividing into two groups, the expedition spent the winter. Yakov Chirakin died during the winter. Of the 14 expedition members, 7 died.
Back in western mouth Matochkina Shar, the expedition met a Pomeranian fishing vessel. The rotten kochmara had to be left at the mouth of the Chirakina River and returned to Arkhangelsk on September 9, 1769 on a Pomor ship.

Of course, the name of Rozmyslov should take one of the first places among the outstanding Russian sailors and Arctic explorers. He not only measured and mapped the semi-legendary Matochkin Shar Strait for the first time. Rozmyslov gave the first description of the natural environment of the strait: the surrounding mountains, lakes, and some representatives of the flora and fauna. Moreover, he carried out regular weather observations and recorded the time of freezing and breaking up of ice in the strait. Fulfilling the assignment given to him, Rozmyslov built the first winter hut in the eastern part of the Matochkin Shar Strait. This winter hut was later used by industrialists and researchers of the archipelago.

In 1806, Chancellor N.P. Rumyantsev allocated funds to search for silver ore on Novaya Zemlya. Under the leadership of the mining official V. Ludlov, in June 1807, two mining masters and eleven members of the ship’s crew set off for the archipelago on the single-masted sloop “Pchela”. The expedition visited the island of Mezhdusharsky, visiting the famous Pomeranian settlement of Valkovo. While studying the islands in the Costin Shar Strait, Ludlov discovered deposits of gypsum.

In 1821-1824. Lieutenant F.P. Litke led four expeditions on the military brig Novaya Zemlya. Expeditions led by Litke made an inventory of the western coast of Novaya Zemlya from the Kara Gate Strait to Cape Nassau. The consolidated ice did not allow us to break further to the North. For the first time, a whole range of scientific observations was carried out: meteorological, geomagnetic and astronomical.

In 1832, difficult ice conditions in the Kara Gates forced the expedition of P.K. Pakhtusov to put the single-masted, deckless large carbass “Novaya Zemlya” for the winter off the southern coast of the archipelago, in Kamenka Bay. The remains of a Pomeranian hut and driftwood found here were used to build housing. As soon as all the expedition members moved to the rebuilt winter hut, from the second ten days of September they began to keep a meteorological journal, entering into it the readings of the barometer, thermometer and the state of the atmosphere every two hours. With the end of winter, multi-day walking routes for the purpose of inventorying and surveying the southern shores of the archipelago. The results of the expedition are the drawing up of the first map of the entire eastern coast of the South Island of the archipelago. Thanks to his subsequent expeditions, outstanding results were achieved. Pakhtusov described South coast Matochkina Shara, East Coast archipelago from the Kara Gate to Cape Dalniy.

Then in 1837 we were on the schooner “Krotov” and the small boat “St. Elisha” expedition of the Imperial Academy of Sciences under the leadership of Academician K. Baer. The ship was commanded by warrant officer A.K. Tsivodka.
In 1838, under the command of warrant officer A.K. Tsivolka, an expedition was sent to Novaya Zemlya on the schooners “Novaya Zemlya” and “Spitsbergen”. The second schooner was commanded by warrant officer S.A. Moiseev. As a result, a number of important studies were carried out; famous domestic and Western European scientists repeatedly addressed the various scientific results of the Tsivolki-Moiseev expedition.

In subsequent years, the Pomors, who continued to fish on Novaya Zemlya, at the request of the famous Siberian industrialist M.K. Sidorov, landed in the places indicated by him, collected rock samples and erected claim posts. In 1870, Sidorov published the project “On the benefits of settlement on Novaya Zemlya for the development of marine and other industries.”

Commercial development of Novaya Zemlya

The history of the creation of fishing settlements on Novaya Zemlya has purely “political roots.” This region has long been “Russian”, but unfortunately there was not a single permanent settlement here. The first Russian settlers in the North and their descendants, the Pomors, came here to fish. But for some reason the “simple Rusaks” believed that their Arctic paradise would always be inaccessible to the “nemchura”, “Germans” - foreigners (“Germans”, i.e. dumb, not speaking Russian, the Pomors called all foreigners). And they were clearly wrong.

It is known that back in the 16th century, soon after the Dutchman Willem Barents and his associates visited the region, Europe became interested in this particular “corner of the Russian Arctic.” And to confirm this, “in 1611 a society was formed in Amsterdam that established hunting in the seas near Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya,” and in 1701 the Dutch equipped up to 2,000 ships to Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya to “beat whales.” According to the information of the famous Siberian merchant and philanthropist M.K. Sidorov, who spent his entire life and fortune just to prove that Russia’s strength lies in the development of Siberia and the North, “before Peter the Great, the Dutch freely hunted whales in Russian territory.”

At the end of the XVIII - first third XIX century, when the North Atlantic whale and fish stocks had already dried up, and the beaches and shallows of Jan Mayen and Bear, Spitsbergen and other islands lost their once familiar appearance - walruses and seals, polar bears, our eternal competitors in the development of the North, the Norwegians, disappeared from here. turned their attention to the undeveloped eastern expanses of the Barents Sea - the islands of Kolguev, Vaygach and Novaya Zemlya, the icy Kara Sea, still “teeming” with Arctic life. The main period of their exploitation of the Novaya Zemlya fields covers approximately a 60-year period - from the end of the second third of the 19th century to the end of the 1920s.

Although Norwegian industrialists appeared in the Novaya Zemlya fisheries several centuries later than Russian sea animal hunters and Nenets, the presence of the Scandinavians in the region was very large-scale, and the nature of the exploitation natural resources- predatory, poaching. In just a few years, they mastered the entire range of Russian fisheries on the Barents Sea side of both islands of Novaya Zemlya, penetrated into the Kara Sea through Cape Zhelaniya, the Yugorsky Shar and Kara Gate straits and onto the eastern coast of the archipelago. Well-equipped and financially secure Norwegian sea game industrialists, who have long hunted whales and seals in the North Atlantic and off Spitsbergen, skillfully took advantage of the experience of the Arkhangelsk Pomors.

When sailing along the coast of the archipelago, the Norwegians relied on navigational and noticeable signs (gurias, crosses) set by the Pomors, and used old Russian camps or their remains as strong points. These camps also served as a signal to the Norwegians that the fisheries were somewhere nearby, since the Pomors usually built camps and huts near them. By the beginning of the 20th century. they even organized several winter quarters on the archipelago.

An entire branch of the Norwegian economy quickly matured in Russian fisheries, and small villages in the northern region of our Scandinavian neighbor, from where fishing expeditions were sent to the Arctic, turned into prosperous cities in a matter of years, creating a good financial foundation for the entire twentieth century.

“The development of fisheries by the Norwegians in the Barents and Kara Seas, on Vaigach and Kolguev contributed to the development of the outlying cities of Norway. So, small town Hammerfest, one of the northernmost cities in the world in the mid-19th century, had no more than 100 inhabitants in 1820. After 40 years, 1,750 people already lived in it. Hammerfest developed its fisheries on Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya, and in 1869 sent 27 ships with a displacement of 814 tons and 268 crew for the fisheries.”

Knowing about the existence in Russia of laws of “coastal law that prohibit foreigners from settling the shores of the islands without the permission of the government,” the Norwegians quite cleverly avoided this legal obstacle. In particular, according to the famous Arkhangelsk Pomor F.I. Voronin, who had been trading on Novaya Zemlya for 30 years, knew of cases when “agents of Norwegian merchants, having their relatives as colonists on the Murmansk coast, extended their plans not only to the island of Novaya Zemlya, but also to Kolguev and Vaygach.

And so, in order to somehow protect themselves from Norwegian expansion in the Russian North, in the 1870s, a plan matured in the bowels of the Arkhangelsk provincial administration - to create settlements on Novaya Zemlya, denoting national interest in this region of the Arctic. Naturally, the good idea was supported in the capital. The go-ahead is coming from St. Petersburg to Arkhangelsk to begin the colonization of the Arctic island. The beginning of the existence of the Novaya Zemlya island hunting industry should be considered the second half of the 1870s, when the Arkhangelsk provincial administration, with state support, founded the first permanent settlement on the archipelago - the Malye Karmakuly camp.

From the very beginning of the creation of settlements on the Arctic archipelago, both the state and the provincial authorities believed that the main occupation of the Nenets on Novaya Zemlya would be fishing activities. The provincial administration even developed and implemented a number of measures to stimulate the involvement of the Nenets in relocating to Novaya Zemlya and supporting their fishing activities.
In the initial period of colonization of Novaya Zemlya, according to the highest royal decree, each pioneer male industrialist was entitled to 350 rubles from the state treasury as “lift” or compensation. At the same time, the settlers were exempt from all government and zemstvo fees for 10 years, and those who wished to move back to the mainland after five years could return to their previous place of residence without prior permission.

In 1892, by order of the Minister of the Interior, 10% of the gross proceeds from the sale of craft products were to be “credited to a special reserve colonization capital, and the net profit of individual colonists was to be deposited in a savings bank in special personal books.” Each Samoyed hunter was entitled to a special book signed by the governor, in which “the amount belonging to the owner of the book is indicated.” The spare capital was used to provide assistance to the first settlers - to deliver them from the tundra to Arkhangelsk, live there for several months, provide clothing and fishing tools, deliver them to Novaya Zemlya, issue gratuitous cash benefits, etc.

Settlement of Novaya Zemlya (its inhabitants)

The residence of indigenous Samoyeds on Novaya Zemlya before the 19th century, unlike Vaigach (an island located between Novaya Zemlya and the mainland), has not been confirmed.

However, when in 1653 (after Barents and other foreign predecessors) three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya, the ship's doctor of this expedition, De Lamartiniere, in his description of the voyage to the archipelago, pointed to a meeting with local residents- “New Zealanders”. Like the Samoyeds (Nenets), they worshiped the sun and wooden idols, but differed from the Samoyeds in clothing, jewelry and face paint. Lamartiniere points out that they used boats that resembled light canoes, and the tips of their spears and arrows, like their other tools, were made of fish bones.

In the literature there are also references to attempts by Russian families to settle on the archipelago in the 16th-18th centuries. There is a legend that Stroganov Bay, located in the southwestern part of Novaya Zemlya, is named after the Stroganov family, who fled Novgorod during the persecution of Ivan the Terrible. Two hundred years later, in 1763, 12 members of the Old Believer Paikachev family settled on the coast of Chernaya Bay (southern part of the archipelago). They were forced to flee Kem, refusing to renounce their faith. Both families died, apparently from scurvy.

However, it is reliably known that Novaya Zemlya became inhabited only at the end of the 19th century. In 1867, on two carbass to south coast The Nenets Foma Vylka sailed to Novaya Zemlya with his wife Arina and children. The Nenets who accompanied them went back in the fall, and Vylka with her family and the Nenets Samdey remained for the winter. At the end of winter Samdey died. Vylka became the first known permanent resident of the archipelago. He lived on Goose Land, in Malye Karmakuly and on the coast of Matochkina Shar.

In 1869 or 1870, an industrialist brought several Nenets (Samoyeds) for the winter and they lived on Novaya Zemlya for several years. In 1872, the second Nenets family arrived in Novaya Zemlya - the Pyrerki of Maxim Danilovich. The Nenets proved that man can live on Novaya Zemlya.

“In 1877, a rescue station was established in the settlement of Malye Karmakuly with the aim of providing industrialists with a reliable shelter both during fishing and in case of an unexpected winter, and at the same time to provide assistance to the crews of ships in the event of their wreck near this island.
In addition, to protect the erected buildings and to engage in trades there, five Samoyed families from the Mezen district, numbering 24 people, were then brought to Novaya Zemlya and settled in the Malokarmakul encampment; They were provided with warm clothing, shoes, guns, gunpowder, lead, food supplies and other tools for hunting and crafts.

Sent to Novaya Zemlya to set up a rescue station, Lieutenant Tyagin of the corps of naval navigators met there the same two Samoyed families, consisting of 11 people, who had been wandering around Mollera Bay for eight years.

These Samoyeds were sent here by a Pechora industrialist, and they were supplied with good means for fishing, but they squandered them and, without risking returning to their homeland, completely got used to the New Land. Finding themselves in complete economic dependence on one of the Pomor industrialists, who supplied them with the necessary supplies, in return - of course, at incredibly cheap prices - taking away their craft items, the Samoyeds asked Tyagin to include them in the Samoyed artel brought with the funds of the Water Rescue Society.” . A. P. Engelhardt. Russian North: Travel notes. St. Petersburg, published by A.S. Suvorin, 1897

Expedition of E.A. Tyagin. built a rescue station in Malye Karmakuly and carried out hydrometeorological observations during wintering. Tyagin’s wife gave birth to a child, who became one of the first children born on Novaya Zemlya.

The families of Nenets colonists who settled in Malye Karmakuly elected Foma Vylka as the first inhabitant of the island, headman. He was entrusted with taking care of the human colonists, maintaining order, as well as organizing the unloading and loading of sea vessels. When performing his official duties, Foma wore a white round tin badge over his patched and blubber-salted malitsa, which meant he was a foreman. After Tyatin’s departure, all management of the rescue station passed into the hands of Foma. He fulfilled this duty conscientiously for many years.

The first known inhabitant of Novaya Zemlya - Foma Vylka

Foma Vylka is an interesting person. He was born on the banks of Golodnaya Bay at the mouth of the Pechora River, in a very poor family. At the age of seven, left an orphan, he became a farm laborer for a rich reindeer herder and worked only to be fed.

The owner had a son who was taught to read and write, forced to read and write. Foma saw all this. He asked the young owner, they were the same age, to teach him how to read and write. They went further into the tundra or into the forest, where no one saw them, there they drew letters in the snow or sand, put words together, and read them syllable by syllable. This is how Thomas learned Russian literacy. And one day, when the owner severely beat Thomas, he ran away from the house, taking with him the owner’s psalter...

Moving from pasture to pasture, where many reindeer herders gathered, Foma looked for a beautiful girl and decided to get married. Violating the ancient rituals of matchmaking, he himself asked the girl if she wanted to become his wife. And only when he received her consent, he sent matchmakers. Several years have passed. Foma arrived in ancient capital European Nenets Pustozersk to the fair. Here he was persuaded to accept Christianity, marry his wife according to Christian rites, and baptize his daughter. Thomas himself had to confess in church. This is where something unexpected happened. The priest asked the confessor, “Didn’t you steal?” Thomas became worried, upset, and even wanted to run away, but finally admitted that in childhood he took the psalter from the owner...

The new owner, to whom Foma hired himself for this work, invited him to go to Vaygach Island at the head of the owner’s fishing team to hunt for sea animals. So for three years Thomas sailed on carbass across the sea to Vaygach and always brought good prey to the owner. Foma's reputation as a successful hunter, a skilled pilot and a good leader of a fishing artel was strengthened. After some time, he began to ask the owner to send him with an artel to fish for sea animals on Novaya Zemlya. The owner approved this plan, assembled an artel, and equipped two sailing boats. On the way to Novaya Zemlya they were met by a strong storm, the rudder of one carbass was torn off, and Foma was washed out to sea. Miraculously, the assistant pulled him on board by his hair. One carbass turned back, the second, driven by Foma Vylka, safely reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya. This is how Foma Vylka and his wife and daughter first came to Novaya Zemlya. A year later their second daughter was born there.

One day Thomas was returning from fishing and saw near the hut-hill, where his wife and children were, a large polar bear. The polar bear was considered a sacred animal among the Nenets. Hunting for it was not prohibited, but the hunter, before killing this animal, must mentally advise the bear to leave in good health. If the bear does not leave, it means that he himself wants to die. Thomas killed the polar bear, approached him, apologized, and bowed to him as the owner of Novaya Zemlya and the sea. According to ancient Nenets customs, only men were allowed to eat bear meat. The carcass of the sacred beast could be brought into the tent not through the door, which was considered an unclean place, but only from the front side of the tent, by lifting its cover. Women could eat bear meat if they drew a mustache and beard on themselves with charcoal. Such a “cunning move” with a deviation from ancient rituals apparently helped many Nenets women escape from starvation.

Foma Vylka’s family had to endure many difficulties on Novaya Zemlya. Harsh, endlessly long winters, loneliness. Food was obtained with great difficulty, clothes and shoes were made from animal skins. There was not enough firewood to warm and light the tent a little; they burned blubber - the fat of sea animals.

Once, when the family of another Nenets, Pyrerka Maxim Danilovich, was already living on the island next to Vylka’s family, such an event happened. In late autumn, Norwegian sailors from a broken ship came to the Nenets tents. Their appearance was terrible: exhausted to the point of death, in tattered clothes and shoes. Foma and Pyrerka gladly accepted them into their tents, fed them, warmed them, and provided them with best places in the plague. The wives sewed them warm fur clothes and shoes. The Norwegians did not eat seal meat, and the Nenets had to specially go hunting in the mountains, kill wild deer there and feed the guest fresh boiled meat. When one of the Norwegians fell ill with scurvy, Foma and Pyrerka forcibly forced him to drink the warm blood of animals and eat raw deer meat, rubbed his legs and body, forced him to walk, did not allow him to sleep much, and thus saved him from death.

In the spring, the Nenets gave the Norwegian sailors a boat, and they left for their homeland. The parting was very touching: they cried, kissed, hugged, the sailors thanked the Nenets for saving them from inevitable death. Gifts were exchanged. They gave Foma a pipe, and he gave them a walrus tusk.

Several years have passed since the sailors left. One day a sea steamer came to Malye Karmakuly. All Nenets colonists were invited to it. The Swedish envoy read and presented a letter of gratitude signed by the Swedish king. Then they began to distribute gifts. The first gift to Foma Vylka was a shotgun and cartridges. They showed how to use it. Foma, with joy, could not resist and immediately hit the head of a floating loon with a shot from his hand, thereby disrupting the order of the solemn ceremony...

Development of Novaya Zemlya

In 1880, M.K. Sidorov, together with shipowners Kononov, Voronov and Sudovikov, submitted a report to the Minister of Internal Affairs on improving the situation in the Northern Territory. It proves the need for proper organization of the resettlement of Russian industrialists to Novaya Zemlya. By the summer of 1880, the armed sailing schooner “Bakan” was transferred from the Baltic to guard the northern lands of Russia. Starting this year, regular steamship flights from Arkhangelsk to Malye Karmakuly are being established.

In 1881, the regulations on the colonization of Novaya Zemlya were approved. From September 1, 1882 to September 3, 1883, under the program of the First International Polar Year, continuous observations of meteorology and terrestrial magnetism were carried out in Malye Karmakuly.

The work of the polar station was supervised by the hydrographer, Lieutenant K.P. Andreev. At the end of April - beginning of May 1882, station employee doctor L.F. Grinevitsky, accompanied by the Nenets Khanets Vylka and Prokopiy Vylka, made the first research crossing of the Southern Island of Novaya Zemlya from Malye Karmakul to the eastern shore in 14 days (round trip).

In 1887, a new camp was founded in Pomorskaya Bay, Matochkin Shar Strait. A member of the Russian Army stayed here for the winter. Geographical Society K.D. Nosilov, who carried out regular meteorological observations. Hieromonk Father Jonah arrived in Malye Karmakuly with a psalm-reader. Before this, the diocesan spiritual authorities annually sent a priest to Novaya Zemlya in the summer to perform religious services and worship in a small chapel.

In 1888, Arkhangelsk Governor Prince N.D. Golitsyn arrived in Novaya Zemlya. It was built specifically for Novaya Zemlya in Arkhangelsk wooden church, which the governor delivered along with the iconostasis to Malye Karmakuly. That same year, Father Jonah made two trips. One to Matochkin Shar for the baptism of two residents. The second - on east coast South Island, to the Kara Sea. Here he found and destroyed a Nenets wooden idol, personifying the patron god of deer hunting. Idols were discovered and destroyed by Father Jonah in other places in the South Island. Father Jonah began teaching Nenets children to read and write and their parents to teach prayers.

September 18, 1888 new church was consecrated. The church was equipped with magnificent icons, valuable church utensils and bells. In 1889, a monastic monastery was established in Small Karmakuly by the Nikolo-Karelian Monastery, with the permission of the Holy Synod. The monks’ task was not only to preach among the Nenets, but also to help change the existing way of life during the transition from nomadic to sedentary life. Jonah's father's many years of work bore fruit. The German colonists willingly visited the temple, and their children read and sang in the church during services.

In 1893, Russian industrialists Yakov Zapasov and Vasily Kirillov and their families moved from the mouth of the Pechora to Novaya Zemlya for permanent residence.

By 1894, the permanent population of Novaya Zemlya consisted of 10 Nenets families of 50 people. This year, Arkhangelsk Governor A.P. visited Novaya Zemlya. Engelhard, who on the Lomonosov steamer brought 8 more families among 37 people who expressed a desire to settle on the archipelago.

A disassembled six-room house was delivered on the ship for the school and residence of Jonah's father and the psalm-reader. This house was built in Malye Karmakuly. Another house was brought for the camp in Matochkin Shar. So, in Malye Karmakuly in 1894 there was a church building, a school, two houses in which the Nenets lived, a building in which a paramedic lived and a supply warehouse, a barn where spare parts were stored. Construction Materials, and in winter - a rescue boat. In Matochkino Shar there were three small houses in which the Nenets lived.

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This 10-day tour on the research vessel Ivan Petrov offers an up-close look at the Arctic's most unique region, the Novaya Zemlya archipelago.

Research vessel "Ivan Petrov"- a vessel of ice class L1 of unlimited navigation area, designed for research in the field of oceanography, meteorology, hydrochemistry, biology, as well as the delivery of supplies and personnel to hydrometeorological stations.

Parameters and technical data:
Tonnage 928 t
Length 49.9 m
Width 10.02 m
Height 5.0 m
Average draft 3.6 m
Speed ​​12.8 knots
Navigation autonomy 35 days. (5500 miles)
Crew: 18 crew members and 20 scientific personnel

1 day (Arkhangelsk)

2-3 day (Sea passage)

During the voyage, scientific conversations will be organized on various scientific topics, for example, the history of exploration and development of the Arctic, animals and vegetable world etc. You will have the opportunity to learn about the history, characteristics of origin, nature and landscapes of these territories.

4-5 days (Barents Sea)

During the voyage you will see amazing, awe-inspiring and delightful seascapes. When favorable weather conditions A short-term landing in Russkaya Gavan Bay is planned.

6-8 day

Archipelago Novaya Zemlya- one of the strictly protected zones of Russia. The purpose of our trip is to visit the Russian Arctic National Park, which is located in the northern part of the archipelago.
A polar camp will be equipped at Cape Zhelaniya, on the territory National Park Walking and motorized routes will be organized.