August 31, Sunday. Coimbra, Fatima, Batalha, Alcabaza.

And the next day we saw a completely different Portugal, serious, solemnly quiet, and this image was embodied in Coimbra, the main university city of the country and its very first capital. It started for us on the embankment near the station (a nice building made of white and pink stone with a clock at the top). Old city located on a high hill, running from the top to the bottom with steep staircase streets. Commerciu Square, more like a rounded piece of a wide street, is located at the very bottom of the hill. From the Old Romanesque located on it, from yellow stone, the church of Santiago, a steep staircase rises to the wide street Ferreira Borges, and from there, through the high gate-arch of Almedina (the remains of the fortress wall) - a passage to a steep narrow street, decorated with garlands of multi-colored flags. The souvenir shops are colorful and elegant, with a lot of intricately painted dishes, mostly in soft blue and light gray tones. So we moved up the stairs, then along narrow cobblestone passages (each street had its own pattern of paving stones), between closely packed houses that parted on the terraces. After a steep climb we reached small area in front of the Old Cathedral of Se Vella. The cathedral is strict, square, made of yellow stone, the teeth running along the top resemble a fortress wall. The entrance to the cathedral is covered with a cloth. A semicircular altar with carved wooden figures, a stone bowl decorated with carvings, a huge sink, walls lined with ancient tiles with almost erased designs. Immediately behind the cathedral there is a wide staircase to the top, and we found ourselves at the top of the hill, in the middle of a wide area of ​​the university campus. On Sunday, August 31, the town seemed dead. By the way, the beginning of the academic year at the university is in mid-September. Through the arch we entered the courtyard of the university, and found ourselves in a spacious square, surrounded on three sides by the square of the old university, and open on the fourth side. Feeling of whiteness and spaciousness. Several trees, a monument to King João III, who gave his Royal Palace for university and moved to Lisbon. White buildings with red tiles, in the corner there is a bell tower nicknamed “the goat”. They say the sound of its bells resembles the bleating of a goat. The central building is very beautiful, with galleries on the second floor and a magnificent, solemn three-arched portal. Everything is the same as in the old days, when St. Anthony of Padua studied here. And to this day the university in Coimbra is considered the best in Portugal. Until the end of his life, dictator Salazar wrote in the “position” column of his questionnaires that he was a professor of economics at the University of Coimbra and tried to attend academic councils.

On the occasion of Sunday, we did not get to the university library, but the university church of San Miguel delighted everyone. There are floral ornaments on a white background on the ceiling, a stunningly beautiful organ (red bowl trimmed with gold, black pipes), and bright tiles on the walls.

Then, through the deserted town, we reached the New Cathedral - Se Nova, wide, white, solemn, with a wide square in front of it. And from him they scattered to the souvenir shops and met already below, in front of the Almedina arch.

Fatima. A huge square, narrow and tall, a white cathedral with galleries open in a semicircle, a huge cross with a sketchy crucifix. People crawl along the marble path on their knees towards the temple; some have foam rubber tied to their knees. Place of mass pilgrimage for the Portuguese. And, unlike academic Coimbra, it is crowded here on Sunday.

In the spring of 1917, three local shepherd children, two sisters and their little brother, had a vision of the Virgin Mary at this place, and from that day, May 13, she came to them every month on the 13th. The eldest of the girls, Lucia, heard her voice. People in the village laughed at the children, their meetings and conversations with the Mother of God, but gradually more and more people began to gather in the meadow on the 13th and, indeed, they saw a glow in the form of a female outline. The largest gathering of people was on October 13, 1917, this time the Mother of God appeared for the last time. She said to Lucia: “You will live long, and your brother and sister will soon come to me.” And three more prophecies, known in Catholicism as the “three revelations of Fatima.” The first is about the Second World War, the second is about the fate of Russia, the third is about the assassination attempt on the Pope.

All of Portugal was agitated by the incident. The Vatican's initial reaction to these events was sharply negative, but the trickle of pilgrims to the small Portuguese village grew every year. After some time, ministers from the Vatican arrived in the village of Fatima and interviewed local residents, and more than a thousand people confirmed to them that they had seen the appearance of the Virgin Mary.

The younger brother and sister soon died. Lucia became a nun and died quite recently, just shy of one hundred years old. The assassination attempt on the pope occurred exactly on May 13, and after recovery, John Paul II placed the bullet removed from him on the altar of the cathedral in Fatima. Then he met Lucia, who lived near the cathedral.

Instead of a meadow now in this place - huge complex: square, cathedral, houses for pilgrims. Huge candles (up to a meter long) are laid out under the canopy; people come up, put coins into the slot, take the candles and go to fenced-in, I would say, braziers, above which tongues of flame and black smoke rise. There, from this flame, you need to light your candle and, stretching your hand through the unbearable heat, install it in one of the sockets. The impression from the braziers is eerie.

The cathedral is light and spacious. Modern stained glass windows, sculptures and drawings of children who saw the Virgin Mary. The girl Lucia stands on the ledge, clutching a baby goat. All three are buried here.

Behind the galleries there is a park and souvenir shops with numerous statues of the Virgin Mary and crucifixes.

In the park there are cork oaks with partially cut bark. It’s a strange impression – the tree stands on a thin orange leg. A white excursion train rides around the city.

For Catholics this place is now sacred. Russian Orthodox Church has an extremely negative attitude towards all these Fatima miracles (especially the prophecy that Russia will be punished for its apostasy, expressed in the summer of 1917). The story of the Kazan Mother of God icon, found in the 16th century near Kazan, is also unclear. At one time, several copies were made of the icon, which were lost during the years of the revolution. Strangely, one of these lists ended up in the Portuguese outback, in the same Fatima. (In one of the sources I read that this is not a list, but the original icon stolen at the beginning of the 20th century from the Kazan Mother of God Monastery).

The surrounding area of ​​Fatima is hilly and the hills are covered with low, spreading trees. Between them are little white houses with red tiles. And this landscape is very typical of rural Portugal: hills and neat white houses.

A short drive and we are standing in the middle of a huge square, in front of the magnificent monastery of Batalha. Early Gothic, with a massive base of yellow stone and numerous gray spiers connected by a low lacy balustrade.

The monastery was erected in the middle of an open field in honor of the victory over the troops of the Spanish king in 1385. This battle was fundamental in the struggle for the independence of Portugal from the power of Castile. On the square in front of the cathedral there is a monument to the commander Pereira, whose skillful leadership of the troops made it possible to win the battle against an enemy several times superior.

A majestic, monumental structure. Very beautiful stained glass windows. In the octagonal chapel of the Founder of the monastery are the burial places of the royal couple and infantes. A white high dome converging in the shape of a star. From the cathedral there is an exit (paid, 5 euros) to the courtyard of the monastery, the so-called Royal. The courtyard is absolutely beautiful. For myself, I called it “Moorish”, then we were told that it was “Manueline” style. Each arch of the gallery is “curtained” with an openwork lattice carved from stone, with a variety of designs: sometimes like woven ropes, sometimes like intertwined vines, interspersed with flowers and crosses. Stone lace rests on thin, carved columns, each with its own pattern. Along the balconies and along the ridge there is an elegant, light lattice. In the corner there is a multi-petal fountain, a bowl above a bowl. The internal space is filled with tall, narrow thujas and low, trimmed bushes with labyrinthine passages cut through.

The royal court and the court of Afonso V are separated by a small museum containing examples of weapons. There was a guard of honor at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier: two guys in camouflage and black berets. The courtyard of Afonso V is much more modest, there are no stone carvings, but there you can climb to the upper galleries and look at the surroundings from a small height.

Finally, we walked around the outside of the monastery. The same grace and luxury, and in a wide area he looked like a perfect creation on an open palm, one of the brightest grains of the golden fund of universal human culture.

The monastery in Alcobaz, where we soon found ourselves, was also originally erected in honor of the battle won against the Moors, but is known rather as a monument to love, which served as a tomb for two lovers who united here forever: King Don Pedro I and Inis de Castro.

The infante first saw Inish in the retinue of his bride, a princess who had arrived from Castile. His wife died soon after the wedding, and the infante secretly married his lovely maid of honor. Four children were born. However, his father, King Afonso IV, feared that the king of Castile would influence his son through Inish (Inish belonged to a noble Castilian family). In her palace in Coimbra, Inish was killed in front of her children. Pedro brutally dealt with the murderers. When he became king after the death of his father, he tried to appoint his son from Inish as his successor, but the courtiers objected to him that the child was illegitimate. Then Pedro ordered the remains of Inish to be dug up, married the dead woman publicly and forced the courtiers to kiss the hand of his long-dead wife.

The monastery cathedral is very strict inside. In the transept there are two marble, carved sarcophagi. The lying bodies of separated lovers surrounded by angels are carved on the surface of the sarcophagi. At Pedro's feet is a marble dog, a symbol of fidelity. Pedro and Inish are buried with their feet facing each other, so that at the hour when the dead rise from their graves, they would rise and immediately see each other.

The monastery itself is quite long (from the bus we walked for a long time along the white, artless walls). The facade of the cathedral is beautiful, adjoined on both sides by the same low white walls. The façade faces a wide city ​​square. There, on the square, directly opposite the cathedral, we settled into summer cafe have lunch. The local hit is considered to be “rooster in Alcobas style”, or “French in a pot” (this is how the Portuguese reinterpreted the French “rooster in wine”). Indeed, everyone was brought a healthy clay pot, from which they had to take out the chicken baked in wine, piece by piece. Tasty like any chicken, but no more. I was even more upset when those of our people came from the cathedral and instead of lunch went to the museum and to the courtyard of the monastery. They said it was even more beautiful than the “Moorish courtyard” in Batalha. Finally, we went to a coffee shop to try local monastery sweets. They are made by grinding hot yolk with sugar and filling crispy waffle cones with this mixture. Well, it's very sickening.

Another short drive, and before dark we arrive in the town of Nazaré, our place of overnight stay. Part of the city stands on a high cliff, the other goes down to the ocean. Luckily, our hotel is located five minutes from the shore. At the level of our window, in the crown of a palm tree, small, loud-voiced birds settled down; the palm tree was simply swarming with them.

Having thrown our things, we immediately ran to the beach. The water was cold, nevertheless, everyone swam courageously. And before our eyes the sun sank into the water. After changing clothes, we went for a walk along the embankment. The town was bustling at night, all the shops were open, the cafes were full, musicians were playing on the streets, a lively stream of people moving back and forth. Ordinary resort life.

Breakfast was in the cafe on the roof of the hotel, and the sunny morning gave us wonderful views of the city, cliffs and ocean. The entire bay, from edge to edge, was filled with white houses under red tiles; on the right, the shore rose sharply, plunging into the ocean with sheer cliffs, and the upper plateau was also covered with the same white houses. The upper and lower parts of the city were connected by a lift.

We spent this whole day in the outskirts of Lisbon, making short, about 20 km, transfers between attractions, and our acquaintance with the suburbs of the capital began with the fabulous town of Obidos, built in the 13th century, and so frozen in it. Obidos stretches like a narrow ribbon along a steep slope, surrounded on all sides by a high fortress wall. The main street runs like an axis through the entire city, from which steep, narrow streets snake up and down. As usual, the houses are white, with blue or yellow trim, all surrounded by flowers. Long lashes strewn with crimson, yellow, purple flowers, bursting from every crack, crawling along the walls, hanging from above. We walked through the fortress gates, lined with blue and white tiles from the inside, walked along the lower street, from the church climbed the stairs to the main street and came out to ancient castle with many towers around the perimeter. There we all had already fled. I climbed the fortress wall and walked along it for some time. Directly below me, opposite the castle, was a decorative village of colorful houses. Having descended, I walked along the upper deserted streets. On main street I found almost our entire group. Óbidos is famous for producing its own cherry liqueur, ginjna. It is customary to pour it into a chocolate cup, drink the liqueur and eat the cup (this tasting costs 1 euro). After sitting in the coffee shop and tasting the liqueur, we were already in a hurry to get to the bus, when on the fortress wall, right above the entrance gate, we saw Luda from our group. “Come up here quickly,” she shouted. Indeed, from there there was an amazing view of the city, especially if you walked a little up the wall: a narrow space, densely filled with houses and trees, squeezed by high battlements stretching into the distance. And a castle on the horizon. Once upon a time, King Dinis gave this city to his bride as a wedding gift. Probably in the same way, they climbed the tower, and the king pointed to the space spread out in front of them: “And this is for you, beloved!”

And then we went to the westernmost point of Europe, Cape Roca. The mountains became steeper, our bus climbed higher and higher, and gradually the mountain forest zone gave way to vast fields of purslane - a local cactus-succulent, of various shades - from red-brown to bright green. At a site near a small building, we got out and headed to a stele topped with a cross. On the stele is the inscription “Cabo du Roca Latitude 38°47’ Longitude 9°30’ Altitude 140 m.” At the very edge of the cliff there is a curb made of stones and to the very horizon - the rich blue of the ocean. To the right and left of the stele there are paths trodden in purslane. We walked along the cliff itself, photographing the sheer walls falling into the ocean. The landscapes are very nice, like everywhere where there are rocks and endless water surface. In the building you could buy certificates stating that you had visited the westernmost point of the continent, for 5 euros - a simple one, for 10 euros - a folding one.

The next 20 km and we enter the city of Sintra, the former summer residence of the Portuguese kings. The Moors also appreciated the beauty of these places and built a fortress on the mountain and a palace below. On the site of the Moorish palace is now the national royal palace of Sintra, and on the mountain, next to the Moorish fortress, in the century before last they built the Peno castle, after seeing which, the Moscow rich man Arseny Morozov, the nephew of Savva Morozov, had a dream to build the same in Moscow, and, indeed, , “based on” the Peno Palace on Vozdvizhenka, a Moorish castle was erected. IN Soviet time The House of Peoples' Friendship was located there.

The local aristocracy also built their houses and palaces around the royal palace; it was a luxury Portuguese resort. Even the phlegmatic and mocking Lord Byron was fascinated by the city. Sintra is connected to the ocean coast by a 14-kilometer tram line.

Unfortunately, we were given very little time to explore the city, since half of the group also wanted to see the famous Lisbon beaches Cascais and Escoril. Me too, of course. Therefore, those who did not go to the beaches managed to explore the royal palace and climb the mountain to the Peno Palace and the Arab fortress (they were in awe of the Peno Palace). The main part of the group only saw the royal palace and walked around the city. Nina suggested that I immediately go to the mountain (she had already been to the palace on her previous trip to Portugal). The castle at the top looked very tempting, although I estimated that it was located quite high. Okay, let's go. For quite a long time we climbed through a forested park, serpentine after serpentine, but the road did not end. The rare cars that crawled up did not stop for our votes. Finally, almost at the very top, one of the cars picked us up. The two men in the car turned out to be Italians, residents of Venice. We went out to the square in front of the ticket office. At the box office you can buy both a general ticket to the Peno Palace and the fortress, and individually. I said that we have limited time, where will we have time to go? The young man replied that the palace needed more time, go to the fortress.

Along a steep path, among a shady forest, we passed the first watchtower and guardhouse and finally found ourselves on the territory of the Castelo dos Muoros fort. Immediately at the entrance, on the lowest platform, there were stone supports that once supported cisterns for collecting water. From below in different sides There were paths and narrow stone stairs leading to the fortress wall. Along the fortress walls, we first climbed to the Royal Tower, from where we could see the Peno Palace, then to two opposite towers, from which Sintra and all its surroundings were clearly visible. Towers with multi-colored flags, stone ladders snaking along a steep slope along the fortress walls among dense greenery, tourists making their way along the walls, relaxing on benches carved out of stone, taking photographs from the towers - everything resembled a child’s game, and not at all a harsh, impregnable bastion.

Having run around the fortress, we began to descend. One of the descent paths had a sign for the Peno Palace, we chose another. After some time, I began to doubt. The square with the ticket offices, where we started our journey, still didn’t show up, I realized that we were going down to the other side of the mountain. It was necessary to either go back or climb up the slope 200 meters. We decided to climb the slope. We regretted our decision very quickly; the slope was steep, overgrown with trees and vines. Finally, I climbed out to the curb enclosing the area near the ticket office, which turned out to be up to my chest. People walked around the site and looked in surprise at me, standing in the forest behind the curb. I smiled at them politely. It was somehow awkward to climb over the fence in a skirt in front of all the honest people. At some point, the square was empty, I jumped over the obstacle and, waiting for Nina, began to walk near the ticket office. Finally, Nina’s red and out of breath head appeared over the fence, I dragged Nina, and we rushed down. There was half an hour left before we left for the beaches.

On the way we met our comrades who had neglected the beaches and were heading up. We told them what we could and moved on. On the way back we were overtaken a couple of times by a local bus. It turned out that the castle could be approached by regular bus. And now we are already on the steep streets of Sintra, making our way between closely spaced, colorful houses. Near the square in front of the palace, in the shadows, one after another, horses harnessed to carts stood patiently. For the last time I take pictures of our fortress (how high it is, were we really there?), we get on the bus and go to the ocean.

First we came to the so-called “Devil's Mouth”. At this point, the coast formed by outcrops of tectonic rocks split, and a crack 20 meters wide juts inland. They say that when a storm rages, a roar can be heard from this place. The coast itself is strange. A sintered black space, somewhere in an even stream descending to the water, somewhere in the form of rearing, rising lava, frozen in the most incredible figures. There are fishermen on the rocks.

The Cascais beach turned out to be not wide at all, sandy, with straw umbrellas and sun loungers placed along the shore. There were not enough swimmers. In the locker room we met a Russian woman with a child. “How are you resting?” - we asked. “Well, the ocean is cold, let’s lie down and sunbathe,” answered the compatriot.

The first swim was not pleasant at all. Even energetic rowing did not help warm up. And it wasn’t hot at all on the beach itself. In general, it was noticeably cooler in Portugal compared to Spain. In vain I was worried that I would languish from the heat. When I looked at the weather at home on the Internet, the temperature in Lisbon was always lower than in Madrid, by 7-9 degrees. We sunbathed, swam again and went to the coastal marishkeira, a cafe specializing in seafood dishes. Preparing for the trip, I printed out what dishes people recommend ordering in marishkeira. And then I read the name to the waiter from a piece of paper. He nodded and left.

The third swim was already quite comfortable, I got out of the water almost without chills and ran to change clothes. Soon they brought us the dish we ordered: mussels cooked in white wine with cilantro and garlic. I have never tasted anything tastier than these mussels during my entire trip. We even gulped down all the liquid with shells (there were no spoons for the dish, only small forks). Around this time, our co-bus passengers began passing from the beach to the park past our table. The mountain of shells aroused curiosity and questioning among everyone. Having finished with the mussels and paid (15 euros), we went to pick up our comrades, and soon we were entering Estoril, an aristocratic resort where many celebrities came to relax and play roulette. Last years The chess player Alekhine spent his life here, here he died an absurd, strange death on the eve of the match with Botvinnik and was initially buried here (he was later reburied in the Montparnasse cemetery in Paris).

We landed near a waterfront park (rows of palms and pine trees leading to the ocean, canals and paths) and headed to the famous casino. The dark-skinned security guard looked very expressively at our motley group pouring out of the bus, but did not move. The casino is in twilight, with the muted light of long red lamps lining the ceiling in squares. They are reflected in the mirrored black floors, and it seems that you are walking above a dark abyss, and far away, in the depths of the abyss, there are red squares. The sensations are strange and unsteady, to the point of dizziness. A huge hall lined with tables, each with two croupiers in white shirts and red vests. Having quickly lost 5 euros each, we then simply watched the players. A fascinating process. A girl from our group stubbornly bet on zero. At some point, tired of losing, she shouted to the dealer in Russian: “Well, make a zero, you can do it!” Show your skills! Magically it worked. The Portuguese threw the ball, it spun for a long time and finally froze at zero. Overjoyed, as if we had won ourselves, we emerged from the black and red space into daylight and followed our comrades to Sintra.

And here is Lisbon. Along the wide Liberdade Avenue we go to the embankment of the full-flowing Tagus River, passing the 25 October Bridge (the longest suspension bridge in Europe) with the figure of Christ on the other side. Christ faces his Brazilian counterpart, and so they look at each other across the ocean. First stop - the Jeronimos Monastery (Jeronimos), a vivid embodiment of the Manueline style, the style of the era geographical discoveries, which spread during the reign of Manuel I. It was built on the site of a small chapel in which Vasco da Gama (Vasco, as the Portuguese pronounce it) prayed before sailing to India. Now it is a grandiose white building, surrounded at the top by a balustrade and narrow spiers. A magnificent portal carved from stone, rising upward like boiling sea foam. The interior is spacious and majestic, with large windows letting in plenty of light. The walls and vaults are braided with ropes carved from stone; at the intersections of the ropes there are crosses, coats of arms, sea knots, and anchors. Even the floral patterns are woven into a marine theme. Extensive stone carvings. The columns are carved from top to bottom, and in the intricate design one can see the face of a lion, then a tarantula, shells, birds, and flowers. On one of the arches a string of human faces of different races is carved. The guide explained that in this way the sculptors, based on the stories and drawings of the sailors, tried to show the diversity of the peoples the sailors met on their way. At the very entrance are the sarcophagi of Vasco da Gama and the poet Camões, also covered with carvings. On Vasco’s sarcophagus there is a sailboat carved, on Camões’s there is a lyre and a feather.

And then we walked across the green lawn to the Belem (Bethlehem) Tower, and an elegant white structure (again, I want to say “in the Moorish style,” no, Manueline, of course) grew before our eyes. For centuries, caravels sailed past this lighthouse tower, some dissolved in the ocean, others, loaded with spices and gold, entered the port. And, like ships, time flowed, century after century, and the Portuguese, dangling their feet in the ocean, looked into the Atlantic distance, from where wealth flowed and flowed into the country. And we thought it would be like this forever. And when the flow stopped, they took their eyes off the shiny, unsteady surface, looked around and suddenly discovered a poor country around them, without plants and factories. The monarchy was overthrown in 1910, but the republic did not last long. Fortunately for Portugal, the dictator Salazar, a professor of economics at the University of Coimbra, came to power, and with a firm hand for many years he taught the country to live by its labor, and not by plunder, created industry, and prevented the country from being drawn into World War II. And in this the fates of Spain and Portugal are similar. One had Columbus, the other Vasco da Gama, vast colonies around the world that did a disservice to the development of countries. In Spain, which was left without colonies, unrest, terrorism, and the rise of anarchism also began, and only under the dictatorial regime of Franco the country came to its senses and began to develop from its own sources.

Monument to the Discoverers - a huge stone sailboat on the shore wide Tagus. Ahead is Henry the Navigator, on both sides of the sail are those who went to dangerous journeys in search of new lands: sailors, merchants, priests, some with a sword, some with a cross and scrolls, some with a chest. The monument is very energetic, expressive, the figures are full of movement and in a single impulse are directed forward. And only a single female figure, at the very end of the unstoppable stream of men rushing past her, dropped to her knees and pressed her hands to her chest, frozen in bitter anticipation.

The area near the monument is paved with paving stones made of alternating waves of black and light stone (the same paving stones are found on main square Lisbon - Rossio). Immediately behind the monument, on the sidewalk, there is a mosaic map of geographical discoveries made by Portuguese navigators: continents and caravels sailing to different directions. From here, through the park with thujas and a fountain, the Jeronimos Monastery looks like a fabulous oriental palace.

Then we went to the famous old Cafe Pasteix, where paste cakes are made. The walls of the cafe are tiled with azulejos, the paintings on the walls are also made of tiles. Paste is a round, small, soft pastry bun that should be eaten hot, first sprinkled with cinnamon and powder. Before that, I tried this delicacy in Fatima (delicious!) and in Óbidos, but they say that only this cafe prepares the “correct” pasta, and the recipe is kept secret. In fact, I would find it difficult to say what components it is made of. The coffee was excellent (as, indeed, everywhere in Portugal).

Then we drove around the city further, reached the ancient district of Alfama and came out on Commerciu Square, a wide space limited on three sides by buildings, and the fourth facing the river. Through Arc de Triomphe we went out onto the crowded pedestrian street of Augusto with light paving stones lined with wide squares, and along it, past souvenir shops and cafes, past funny “living” sculptures, past the Santa Justa lift (a metal cabin on a high thin leg) we reached a cheerful, lively Rossio Square. Fountains were playing in the square, in the shade of trees, passers-by were resting on benches, in front of the theater building, on a high white column, stood a black monument to King Pedro IV, and black and white waves of paving stones scattered across the ground, so that it seemed that the surface was also underfoot wavy. And nothing reminded of the fires of the Inquisition that once burned here (the palace of the Inquisition stood on the site of the theater) and of the later bullfights - torradas.

From the station building we walked along a nearby street, and Vera showed us an inexpensive cafe. In general, we must give her credit, she always pointed out to us places where we could eat inexpensively and tasty, and guided us on what dishes in which cities are considered traditional and what is best to order. As a result, we gained insight into local culinary traditions and spent significantly less money on food than we had expected.

At this point the excursion ended, and we went to the Gyulbekian Museum. Near the San Justa lift, we entered the Baixa Chiado metro and took the blue line 5 stops to Plaza de España. To enter the metro you need to buy a cardboard card for one and a half euros, and you can use it to buy the required number of trips, half a euro for each. You insert the card into the turnstile at the entrance and exit.

Calouste Gyulbekyan, an Armenian by origin, was born in Turkey, studied in England and had English citizenship, lived in Paris for a long time, and during the war he moved to neutral Portugal, where he remained until the end of his life. He made his enormous fortune from shares in oil companies. He was a passionate collector and during his life he collected the richest collection objects of art. From the Hermitage alone, the collection of which the Soviet government began to sell off in the late twenties, he acquired more than 50 works.

The museum is one-story, but extensive, located among a small park. Ticket – 4 euros for the main halls, 7 euros – including current exhibitions and the library. I recommend taking it for 4, there was nothing interesting at the current exhibitions.

The collection is amazing, selected with the greatest taste and consists entirely of masterpieces. Paintings from the 15th century to the Impressionists, Egyptian bowls, statues, Persian carpets, ceramics and coins from different centuries and peoples, ancient bibles, carved iconostases, furniture, tapestries, Sèvres porcelain, and in the last rooms - jewelry.

After the museum, we returned to the center and went to the cafe indicated by Vera (from the Rossiu station, walk a little along the street parallel to Rossiu Square, the entrance is opposite the shoe store). Got some food ( Buffet, unlimited number of approaches), ordered beer. Everything was delicious. Our lunch cost 8 euros. In general, Portuguese prices were pleasing compared to the average European ones.

After lunch we went to the Santa Justa ski lift. There was a small queue for about ten minutes in front of the booth. Tickets are sold directly in the booth - 2.5 euros. Having risen 32 meters, we reached the observation deck, from which we climbed up a spiral staircase to the next level. There is also a cafe there. From above, the first thing that catches your eye is a massive, gray castle with battlements on the opposite wooded hill - the fortress of San Jorge (later it turned out that half of our group rushed there). The space between the two hills is filled with neat rows of houses stretched towards the river. All the same mostly white houses (with splashes of azulejo) and red tiles. As a result of the earthquake in 1755 most of Lisbon was destroyed. The low-lying part was especially damaged, so they rebuilt it, adhering to a regular layout. The area over which we ascended is called Baisha, “lowland.” Rossio Square looks beautiful from here with its two round fountains, a theater, rows of linden trees and a column in the center.

From the observation deck we crossed the bridge onto the hillside and found ourselves on the cozy, green square of Carmu (small squares are called largo, large ones - praca) in front of the church destroyed by the earthquake (now there is an archeology museum). From there we reached Largo Chiado, in the center of which the poet António Ribeira (nicknamed Chiado, i.e. “the crafty one”) sits on a white pedestal, with a perky smile on his face, with his hand raised, as if caught in the midst of a friendly, cheerful conversation. Another poet, Fernando Pessoa, who lived three centuries later, sat at a table in a summer cafe, right here, in the middle of the sidewalk. In an elegant jacket and hat, he casually threw his shoe over the knee of his other leg, and on the other side, more and more tourists were sitting down at his table.

Right there, literally a stone's throw away, on the spacious Camões Square, there is a monument to the third poet - Luis Camões, a man of an amazing destiny, full of adventures and great love carried throughout his life. For the Portuguese he means the same as Pushkin for the Russians (by the way, Pushkin really appreciated Camões). The day of his death, June 10, is popularly celebrated and called Portugal Day. The black monument to the poet with a sword and a book is elevated on a white octagonal stepped pedestal, and at its foot are eight figures of prominent Portuguese. Floating caravels are laid out on the paving stones around the monument.

Through the sloping streets of Lisbon we came to observation deck Matadoro di Santa Catarina. This area apparently serves as a gathering place for local youth. In any case, on this fine September day it was full of people, everything you could sit on was occupied: tables in the summer cafe, benches, steps of the stairs, the high border around the lawn. Those who didn't get it seating, just lying on the lawn. The surrounding views were not too impressive. The April 25 Bridge is clearly visible, and near it there is a varied development of modern neighborhoods.

The streets in this area are striking in their steepness. Sometimes they just turn into stairs. You look, and there, inside the hole, another house is rising. It's amazing how traffic moves here! Some facades are decorated with tiles; some are very nice. But there are also many that would be nice to clean from street dirt and grime. There are many dilapidated and shabby houses, with inscriptions and drawings on the walls.

We went out to the poets again. We went into two churches facing each other next to Camões. And then along Serpa Pinto Street we reached the square of two theaters: San Carlos and San Luis (also facing each other). Past the Chiado Art Museum we went down to Arsenal Street (the area is very deserted, dirty and unpleasant) and soon found ourselves in Municipiu Square with the white, three-story municipal building and a twisted column in front of it. Around the column, concentric circles of black and white triangles scattered across the paving stones. A little more - and we are on Commerciu Square, walking along the endless gallery. We went out to Sebolash Square, overlooking the river. Among the palm trees, a tram rolled quickly along it. Opposite is a remarkable house, the Casa dos Bicos (house of beaks), with unusual, asymmetrically arranged windows and a facade decorated with protruding pyramids. This is already the Alfama district, one of the oldest in the city, which miraculously survived the earthquake. From the square we went up the alleys to the monumental cathedral It looks more like a fortress. Tall battlements extend from the back of the cathedral. Both bell towers also end in battlements. A tram jumped out from behind the cathedral and rolled down. The trams here are very cute: short, plump, brightly colored.

A little further down the street is the Church of St. Anthony of Padua (built on the spot where Anthony was born). In front of the church is a monument to the saint: on the black arches stands a saint with a book, a baby clinging to him.

By eight in the evening we went down to Commerciu Square, where the bus was waiting for us. And we went to listen to fado.

They say that in the soul of the Portuguese there live 3 “f”: Fatima, fado and football. We saw Fatima, we have an idea about football, all that remains is to listen to Fado.

The fado house where we arrived is low, decorated inside with luxurious azulejos and photographs of fadistas, fado performers. In the central hall there is a stage in the middle, from which long tables radiate. First - dinner (nothing remarkable, I only remember excellent white wine). After the hot food was served, the lights were dimmed, and two pairs of dancers in national clothes came on stage and danced a local dance to the accordion, mischievously and with a sparkle. Then the fado performers began to come out one after another: three women and a man. The singing was accompanied by two guitarists, one on a classical guitar, the other on a round Portuguese guitar. Fados are passionate, drawn-out songs in which originally sailors, as well as the wives waiting for them, expressed their longing and pain from parting. In its modern form, more generally - complaints about a bitter fate. One performer succeeded another, but the last singer, a man, had the greatest success. After it fell silent The last song, the lights were turned on in the hall. Many women had tears in their eyes. Even without understanding the words, people were fascinated by the pain and passion emanating from fado.

Late in the evening we returned to the hotel. By the way, a Russian guy Anton worked at the reception there. In general, I was surprised by the number of Russians living in Lisbon. Both in the subway and at the construction site (when we passed construction workers in the Alfama area, they spoke to each other in Russian).

To be honest, I didn’t like Lisbon very much; it seemed neglected and shabby, certainly interesting and original, but lacking the charm that came from, say, Coimbra or lovely Obidos. And, in general, there was no regret that we were leaving him so soon.

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Founded on the site of the Roman settlement of Eminium, Coimbra for a hundred years it was the capital of the Kingdom of Portugal. 6 kings were born in Coimbra, and the tomb of the first monarch of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, is also located here. Everything here breathes history, everything here - cathedrals and palaces, streets and squares - is part of the great cultural heritage.

Coimbra is home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, which is still in operation. Of particular interest are the university library with its rich collection of ancient books and the museum of religious art, also located within the university walls.

Parents with children will be interested in visiting the Portugal in Miniature park, where both children and adults can explore small copies of famous buildings in Portugal.

Coimbra got its name from an ancient settlement Conimbriga, located fifteen kilometers to the south, but abandoned in the 6th century. after the invasion of vandals. Conimbriga is the largest and most studied Roman excavation site in Portugal. There is evidence that the Romans were present here already in the 2nd century. BC, and later the city became a place on the Roman road between Lisbon and Braga. Conimbriga is home to one of the largest mansions of the Western Roman Empire - the rich villa Casa de Cantaber.

COIMBRA, FATIMA, KARST CAVES
GROUP – TUESDAY (07:00-18:00) –

The excursion introduces ancient capital Portugal - city Coimbra and its ancient university, and also includes visit to Fatima and exciting journey through karst caves. Travel to Coimbra by train or regular bus, the guide will meet you in Coimbra at the station. Return to Lisbon with the group by bus. During the excursion you will be offered lunch in a traditional restaurant.

For reference:

Fatima– this place in the very center of Portugal is sacred to Christians all over the world. It was here, according to legend, that the Most Pure Virgin appeared to the world in 1917. On a huge square, which is 2 times larger than St. Peter's Square in Rome, is the magnificent Basilica of the Holy Virgin, which was built in the neo-Baroque style.

Among the many attractions of Portugal there are rare objects, which include karst cave Grutas da Moeda. The name is translated into Russian as “piggy bank with coins.” You will discover amazingly beautiful halls with limestone formations reminiscent of statues and bas-reliefs.

Entrance tickets are paid additionally:
Visit to the University Library in Coimbra – 9 euros (optional).
Visit to Karst caves – 6 euros.

Lunch included.

The distance from Coimbra to Fatima is 0 km. Distance information was obtained by plotting a route along highways. It is important to know the number of kilometers to calculate travel time and estimate travel costs. So, according to the map, the length of the road from Coimbra to Fatima is 0 km. Using average speed movement vehicle and calculated mileage, we get that the approximate travel time will be 0 hours 0 minutes. Also based on the number of kilometers and current price With gasoline, you can calculate the cost of the trip and stock up on the required amount of fuel. When traveling long distances, determine in advance at which kilometer of the route you will make rest stops. Our map will help you find the shortest route from Coimbra to Fatima, which will reduce your costs and eliminate unnecessary travel time. The thick line indicates the path you have chosen. Sometimes it is interesting to know the number of kilometers traveled in other units of measurement: 0 km. km = 0 miles. Function " Print version" allows you to print a map from Coimbra to Fatima.

If you are planning a long distance trip, you should remember a few simple but important rules: - carefully prepare your car for long journey: Check the level of engine oil, coolant, windshield washer fluid, and make sure all lights and other devices are functioning properly. - check the tire pressure. It is very important that it matches the pressure recommended for your vehicle. - prepare a spare tire and a tow rope - no one is immune from a tire puncture or breakdown on the highway, you should foresee possible troubles in advance and avoid them. - choose roads with high-quality coverage - this will extend the life of your “iron horse” and save your nerves. When preparing for a trip, think through everything to the smallest detail so that the trip leaves pleasant memories and not a headache.

Tour No. PO103

Two capitals - Lisbon + Porto. The most interesting!
Itinerary: Lisbon - Sintra (Pena Castle and Regaleira Estate) - Cape Roca - Cascais - Estoril - Porto - Douro River Cruise - Visit wine cellars- Quimbra - Fatima - underground cave Piggy bank with coins - Mafra - Village of Jose Franco - Ericeira
Air tour

for 7, 8 or 9 nights
from 802 euros

1) Sunday	Departure from Lisbon with things, transfer to Porto. Sightseeing tour (4 hours) of Porto with Lunch, if meals are PRG. Wine tasting (10 euros). Cruise on the Douro River (15 euros).
2) Tuesday	Departure from Porto with things to Lisbon. Along the way, visit to Quimbra - Fatima - Piggy Bank Cave (payment for seats 7 euros), with lunch, if the food is PRG.
3) Wednesday	2 excursions in 1 day - Provincial Portugal (Mafra Palace (6 euros), Ericeira, the village of Jose Franco) with lunch, if meals are PRG. In the afternoon – Sightseeing tour of Lisbon.
4) Saturday or Thursday	Sintra luxury 8h, overview of the town of Sintra, Visit to 2 Pena Palaces (17 euros) and Quinta de Regaleiro (6 euros), Lunch, if meals are PRG, trip to the End of the Earth - Cape Roca, on the return to Lisbon a short stop in the resorts of Cascais, Estoril.

The tour price includes:

• Air flight Moscow - Lisbon - Moscow, regular flight minimum fare
• Group transfers according to the program. And for Tap Portugal flights and for Aeroflot flights from Moscow. If you have other flights arriving in Lisbon between 6 a.m. and 11 p.m., a group transfer upon arrival will be provided at no extra cost. Return transfer to the airport - depends on departure time.
• Meals or (BB) – breakfasts only or (PRG) – Breakfasts + 4 Lunches with drinks during excursions + 1 dinner with Fado romances with drinks
• Accommodation in Lisbon and Porto (2n) in 3* or 4* hotels to choose from. Basic hotels in Lisbon are 3* Vip Berna, 4* VIP Executive Entrecampos Hotel & Conference, in Porto – 3* Star Inn Porto, 4* Black Tulip or others of the same category.
• Excursions according to the program with a Russian-speaking guide, minor changes are possible in the tour programs
• Medical insurance up to 65 years of age

The tour price does not include:

• Cost of visa services: for those submitting fingerprints in Moscow 80 euros per person net (children under 6 years old - 30 euros), for those submitting fingerprints in other cities - 15 euros per person net
• Entrance fees to some palaces, museums, Douro River cruise, cave (~60 euros), payment on the spot
• Additional excursions on site upon request
• It is possible to book rows on the bus with an additional payment: Additional options per person (no commission): 1st row - 60 euros, 2nd-3rd rows -50 euros, 4th-5th - 40 euros. Fixation of a seat - 15 euros per person in the range from 6 to 12 rows according to availability. Wishes on the right, on the left, a specific row are accepted - but not guaranteed, at the discretion of the partner.
• Travel cancellation insurance 5% of the total tour cost with all additional payments

Attention!
From January 1, 2016, a tourist tax of 1 euro per day per person (no more than 7 euros) is introduced in Lisbon, payable at the hotel upon arrival
From March 1, 2018, Porto introduced tourist tax for accommodation 2 euros per night, but not more than 14 euros for the entire period of stay at the hotel
As of February 1, 2017, a tourist tax of 1 euro per person per night (max 7 euros) was officially introduced in Cascais.

Tour cost per room in euros (Standard room):

Two capitals – Lisbon + Porto! 3*, breakfast

Two capitals – Lisbon + Porto! 4*, breakfast

Two capitals – Lisbon + Porto! 3*, breakfasts + lunches with drinks during excursions

Two capitals – Lisbon + Porto! 4*, breakfasts + lunches with drinks during excursions

Arrivals: daily from 28.04 to 09.05

Find out prices for other hotels and prices in top periods from the managers
Depending on the specific date of arrival, the cost may vary slightly.

Departure and arrival times are approximate and may be changed by the carrier.
The timing and order of excursions may be subject to change.
The cost is indicated for legal entities, for individuals Find out the ruble price from the company managers.

Good afternoon We thank the DEVISU company for the excellent organization of the “Armenia in all its glory” tour from July 6 to July 12, 2019! Many thanks to our guide Lia, who opened up for us the history, culture and traditions of ancient and modern Armenia at the highest professional level! Her love for Armenia, talent, delicacy, subtlety, and intelligence won our hearts! The trip was amazing and unforgettable! We wish the company further success and prosperity!

Fully

Tatiana and Andrey Nechaev, Moscow

Ekaterina, good afternoon! Thank you, I had a great trip, the room was what I wanted (with a view of the park and a bathroom). I was very pleased. Thank you.

The only thing is that the transfer, in addition to me, met other women who were brought to Karlovy Vary and I had to travel instead of 2 hours from Prague to Marianske Lazne for 3 hours. This, of course, was not convenient; they brought me there in the evening. Of course, it would be more convenient to fly to Karlovy Vary.

Larisa, Perm

Hello, Ekaterina. Our trip was a success.

The hotel is good. Repair, furniture, plumbing, bed linen - in excellent condition, no comments. Very clean and comfortable.

Breakfast was the same every day, but with a good variety - so you could diversify your menu simply by choosing different dishes.

There is a kettle, tea, coffee, sugar, cream in the room. We used it. Tea was added daily. Linen and towels were changed twice a week.

The hotel is located in a quiet area, there is no noisy crowd. There are several direct tram routes to the center (both to the railway station and to shopping centers, and to the main attractions).

The drive is less than half an hour. 2 stops near the hotel: one right under the windows, the other a 5-minute walk at a walking pace.

Lyubov Leonidovna, Moscow

Ekaterina, hello! I apologize for not dropping you a couple of lines earlier: I was sorting out my affairs, unpacking my suitcase - or vice versa.

We really enjoyed our holiday in Armenia, organized with your help, everything went smoothly, without a single hiccup. Thank you very much for organizing the tour!

Special thanks and low bow to the host - "Armenia Travel". The drivers are beyond praise, the guide Liya Bakhshinyan is a true professional and a very sincere, sincere person. Over the course of a week of close communication, we became almost family.