Relative height of Mount Everest. Why do people die on Everest and at what altitude. Chomolungma - the sacred mountain of the Sherpas

No difficulties stop those who want to test their strength, climb where not everyone can climb, see with their own eyes what not everyone can see - incredible and indescribable beauty natural world. And this is despite the fact that the climb will be to the real Death Mountain, because Mount Everest attracts tourists.

When everyone found out where Everest, the highest mountain in the world, was located, they immediately began to conquer its peaks. Everyone who storms Everest knows that he can stay here forever. He may die due to lack of oxygen, heart failure, injury incompatible with life, or simply freeze to death. At the same time, even fatal accidents can easily lead to death, for example, an unexpectedly frozen valve of an oxygen cylinder or a seemingly strong cable suddenly breaking. Death has happened on Everest, and this is evidenced by the peculiar cemetery on Everest, where the corpses of the dead are located.

The climb to the top is so difficult that, having reached a height of 8 thousand meters, each expedition member becomes so busy with himself that he is not always able to find the strength to help a friend if necessary. He will think about the moral side of this issue later if he comes down. According to statistics, for every ten successful climbs to Mount Everest, there is one death.

What does the highest point in the world look like?

Tourists often wonder what geographical coordinates Mount Everest, and who is the first conqueror of Everest. The highest (as most geologists claim) mountain in the world is located on the territory of two countries at once. The peak, located on the southern side, has a height of about 8760 meters and is located between Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Okrug China. The highest point on the planet, on the northern side, at a distance of 8848 m from sea level, belongs entirely to the PRC.

Everest's shape is somewhat similar to a triangular pyramid. All three of its slopes (southwestern, southern and eastern) are extremely steep, and two of them are completely covered with glaciers. As for the southern slope, it is so steep that snow and ice simply cannot stay on it, which is why it is almost always exposed.

The slopes are connected to each other by almost straight ridges, stretching to the west, southeast and south.

As for the summit of Everest, it consists almost entirely of sedimentary deposits, mainly limestone and sandstone, which previously covered the ocean floor of the ancient Tethys Ocean, even before the emergence of a giant hill in this place. In addition, in our time, scientists often find fossils of marine animals and shells on the top of Everest, which confirm the theory that this area in former times was located below sea level.

How Everest came to be

About 60 million years ago, the ancient continent, located in the southern hemisphere of the world, split into several lithospheric plates. After this, the Indian lithospheric plate began to move in a northerly direction and after some time collided with the Eurasian plate, or rather, with southern edge Asia.

As a result of the collision, the bottom of the ancient Tethys Ocean was deformed. As a result, part of the ocean went deep into the Earth, into the mantle, and part rose and formed a huge barrier that blocked the continent from West to East (it originates in the French Alps and ends in South Vietnam). It was because of its appearance that seasonal monsoons formed in the southeastern part of Asia.

The highest mountains of this barrier are the Himalayas (“Abode of Snows”). Their growth has not yet stopped, increasing annually from 3 to 10 mm. In the Himalayan range, scientists have counted 75 mountains whose height above sea level exceeds 7 km. Moreover, the highest mountains are located in Nepal - the height of nine peaks here is more than 8 km. And Mount Everest rises above everyone, or as it is also called - Chomolungma (Goddess - Mother of the World) or Sagarmatha (Lord of the Sky).

As for the official name, the proposal to name the mountain in honor of George Everest, who at one time headed the British Geodetic Survey in India, was made by Andrew Waugh, his student, who managed to prove that “Peak XV,” named by Everest, is the highest point on the planet.

Everest height

After scientists established the exact coordinates of Mount Everest, they began to determine its height. Despite the fact that the exact height of Chomolungma was established by English topographers in the middle of the 19th century, debate on this issue continued for quite a long time.

And all because the Chinese believed that Everest rises 8844 meters above sea level, while the Nepalese were convinced that Sagarmatha was four meters higher. This difference was explained by the fact that, according to the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire, Chomolungma needs to be measured, not taking into account the huge layer of snow lying on the top, only by the height of the mountain itself. The countries came to full agreement only a few years ago, agreeing to set the height according to the Nepalese option.

Despite the fact that Chomolungma is recognized as the highest point above sea level, there is a mountain on our planet that exceeds it in size by more than one kilometer. This is an inactive volcano on Mauna Kea. Hawaiian Islands. Although it rises above the earth’s surface by only 4205 m, its total height (if you start measuring from the ocean floor) is more than ten thousand meters.

Climate

The average air temperature at the Sagarmatha peak in January is −36°C and quite often drops to −60°C. The warmest month here is July, when temperatures rise to −19°C, but never exceed 0°C.

Almost all summer, Everest is under the influence of monsoon winds that fly in from the south and bring with them great amount precipitation. Those who want to climb Everest in the summer quite often find themselves in such strong snow storms that it often becomes impossible to continue the ascent.

When the monsoons end, from November to March (except January), Chomolungma is hit by terrifying winds, the speed of which often exceeds 285 km/h, which also makes climbing the mountain extremely difficult.

People begin to actively conquer the peak in the intermediate periods, when the weather behaves more or less decently, but even at this time you can often suddenly find yourself in the middle of a sandstorm or wake up in the middle of a three-meter layer of snow that fell overnight. During this period, westerly winds prevail here. If their speed is about 80 km/h, the clouds around Everest are at the level of the summit; if the air masses move less quickly, then the clouds rise above the mountain; if faster, they fall down.

Flora and fauna

The flora on Chomolungma is sparse, but it exists. Tufts of grass and low shrubs grow at the foot (among them is snow rhododendron, the only bush that can exist at an altitude exceeding 5 thousand km at a temperature of -23°C). Here you can see conifers, lichens, moss, etc.

As for living creatures, Himalayan jumping spiders feel good here, being almost the only creatures capable of existing at an altitude of 6,700 m above sea level.

These arthropods feed on frozen insects, which are brought here by strong air masses, and on collembulae, small arthropods that live here, which feel good at an altitude of up to 6 thousand km. In addition to them, several species of new grasshoppers were discovered on the slopes of Everest. As for the higher regions of Chomolungma (over 6700 m), only microscopic species can live here.

In addition to insects, you can sometimes see birds near the top of the mountain - climbers often noticed mountain ducks and alpine jackdaws here (the latter feed on carrion and are able to stay at altitudes exceeding eight kilometers).

Chomolungma - the sacred mountain of the Sherpas

In the eastern part of Nepal, in the Everest region, live the Sherpas, descendants of the Tibetans who emigrated more than five hundred years ago to the south of the Himalayan range. For them, Chomolungma is sacred because, according to their beliefs, spirits, demons, as well as Jomo Miyo Lang, which is one of the “five sisters of longevity”, live on it, providing food to the inhabitants of the five highest Himalayan peaks.

According to local legends, once the Indian preacher Padmasambhava (Born in the Lotus), the founder of Tibetan Buddhism (8th century AD), organized a competition to see who could climb Everest the fastest, challenging one of the lamas of the then official Bon religion to the competition. Since Padmasambhava was brought to the top by a sunbeam, his opponent lost, and as a sign of his defeat, he left his drum there. After this, whenever an avalanche descends from the mountains, local residents they beat drums, thus driving away evil spirits and demons.

Before climbing Everest, the Sherpas each time perform a special ceremony (puja), remembering those who died on Sagarmatha, putting their thoughts and souls in order, and asking the spirits of the mountain to take pity on them and not destroy them.

In memory of everyone who died during the ascent, the Sherpas erected a pyramid on the way to the base camp, located between Dingbosh and Lobos. And near the foot of the mountain, in a special place, stupas, prayer wheels, flags and mantras intended for ceremonies are kept.

Sherpa climbers

If it were not for the endurance of the Sherpas, their qualifications and experience, who knows how well the Himalayan mountains, and with them Everest. It was representatives of this nationality who, as guides, provided invaluable assistance to the first explorers of the ridge.

It is quite natural that a huge number of records for conquering Everest belong to representatives of this particular ethnic group. However, everyone wonders who was the first to conquer Everest.

The first conquerors of Everest were Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and climber from New Zealand Edmund Hillary, who found themselves there back in 1953.
Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi summited the summit twenty-one times.
Pemba Dorje climbed Sagarmatha in 8 hours 10 minutes.
Babu Chiri managed to stay on top of the mountain for about an hour - which is quite difficult, given not only the strong winds, but also the very low air pressure, due to which only 1/3 of the oxygen reaches the lungs.

Conquest of Everest

Since, according to local beliefs, gods live in the Himalayas, the governments of Tibet and Nepal did not previously allow foreigners to disturb the peace of the sacred mountains. Therefore, the Himalayas were inaccessible to the white man for a long time and rarely did anyone manage to climb to the peaks of this mountain range.

The first peak officially conquered by a white man, whose height exceeded 7 thousand meters, was Trisul - and this happened in 1907. Active attempts to climb higher mountains began in 1921, and the first conqueror of Everest was identified in 1953.

Since then, many tragic pages have appeared in the history of the conquest of Everest - according to statistics, during the ascent of this mountain, for every ten successful ascents there is one fatality. The saddest thing is that the corpses of many of the dead remained unburied on the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their transportation.

According to rumors, some corpses serve as a kind of landmark for climbers. For example, a Hindu who died at the end of the last century at an altitude of about eight and a half thousand meters is still there to this day, marking this height. It is better known to climbers as “Green Boots” (this is the color of the shoes the deceased wore).

But information of this kind does not stop extreme sports enthusiasts and fans from setting records. For example, in 1980, Italian Reinhold Messner climbed Chomolungma alone, without using oxygen cylinders. In 2001, Marco Siffredi skied down Everest on a snowboard. But when I tried to do it the next year, I disappeared without a trace.

It was on Sagarmatha that the most massive loss of life in the history of mountaineering was recorded. This happened in April 2014, when a huge avalanche buried sixteen people.

The most difficult part of the route

The hardest thing for climbers is the last three hundred meters, not without reason nicknamed “The Longest Mile on Earth.” And the culprit here is not only oxygen deprivation and extreme weather conditions, but also the terrain. To successfully reach the goal, you first need to overcome the extremely steep, snow-covered, smooth rock elephant. This section is so difficult and dangerous that climbers are unable to insure each other.

How much does it cost to climb Everest?

The pleasure of climbing Chomolungma is not cheap - about 65 thousand dollars. USA (in this case, just for one permit, which must be issued by the Nepalese authorities, you need to pay 10 thousand dollars). The payment includes the services of guides who, before starting the climb, provide training to future climbers ( most of clients are rich people with almost no experience of conquering peaks), provide the necessary equipment and take care of safety.

For this, future Everest conquerors undergo appropriate training: it takes them about two weeks to climb from Kathmadu to the parking lot located at an altitude of 5364 m. Having reached the base, climbers spend a month acclimatizing and getting used to the altitude before moving on. The ascent itself usually takes about two months and spring is considered the most favorable period for this.

Recently, the flow of tourists to Everest has been increasing annually. For example:

In 1983, only eight climbers conquered Sagarmatha;
Seven years later their number increased to forty;
In 2012, more than two hundred climbers climbed Chomolungma in just one day (at the same time, traffic jams and fights between tourists were recorded).

Global warming

Global warming clearly could not but affect the high mountain world, as a result of which the glaciers of Chomolungma have decreased by 30%, which is an extremely huge problem, since these glaciers feed the most large rivers given area (including the Yangtze and Yellow River). Melting glaciers also expose rock, making climbing Sagarmatha increasingly difficult.

The influence of people on Everest

Definitely, if the first climbers had seen now the state of Everest, they would not have recognized it - the entire mountain is strewn with used oxygen tanks, torn tents, bags, and, as Time journalist Brian Walsh put it, “pyramids of human excrement.” An illustrative example in this case is the data of ecologists, who calculated that in 2007 alone, when about 40 thousand tourists visited the mountain, they left about 120 tons of garbage.

Tourists cause irreparable harm to the environment by actively destroying trees growing around Chomolungma, subsequently using them for heating. The issue of burying dead climbers is becoming more pressing (the resolution of this issue is of particular concern to local residents).

How to revive it

The government of Nepal and a considerable number of non-profit organizations have developed a number of activities aimed at reviving Everest. Moreover, some of them even go to the detriment of the country’s economic interests - first of all, the authorities are going to consider the issue of reducing the issuance of permits to climb Chomolungma, which costs a lot of money.

Until this decision came into force, a resolution was adopted that every tourist who climbed Everest must remove at least eight kilograms of garbage from the mountain.

Some organizations have begun to work on how to stop the melting of glaciers - this was the impact that the ideologist of this project, American cinematographer David Breashers, had on the comparison of just two photographs - the one he took himself, and the one that George Mallory, one of the first, once took climbers who conquered Chomolungma. The difference impressed him extremely. The future will tell how successful these projects will be.

Anyone who has studied even a little geography has a rough idea of where Mount Everest is located. This is one of the most famous peaks of our planet, also known by the Tibetan name Chomolungma and the Nepalese name Sagarmatha.

Translated from Tibetan, Chomolungma means “Divine Mother, Giver of Life Energy.” In the Bon religious tradition, the patroness of the mountain is the goddess Sherab Jhamma, symbolizing the maternal principle. Among the people of Tibet, she is also known as "Jomo Gang Kar" - "The Most Holy Mother, White as Snow". This name is explained by the mountains in which Everest is located: the Himalayas are known for their harsh winters and frequent snowfalls.

The peak received its European name in honor of Sir George Everest. In the first half of the 19th century, he was appointed head of a geodetic expedition in areas of India occupied by British troops.

Geography

Any schoolchild knows exactly what continent Chomolungma is located on. It is part of the Himalayan mountain range and is part of the region known as the Khumbu Himal. There are two peaks in the mountain: North and South. The southern peak, 8760 m high, is located on the border of Tibet and Nepal, and its northern counterpart is located on the territory of the People's Republic of China. In the case of the Northern Peak, the absolute height of the mountain is 8848 m.

The shape of Chomolungma resembles a triangular pyramid. The steepness of the southern slope is significantly greater, as a result of which the snow cover does not remain on it and it remains constantly bare. Everest is closely surrounded by mountains on all sides: it is connected to Lhotse by the South Col pass. A similar pass in the north connects the peak with Mount Changze. In the east is the insurmountable mountain wall of Kangashung. Melted glacial waters flow down all the slopes of Chomolungma, not reaching its foot for about 5 km.

The mountain is more than 60 million years old. It arose as a result of a noticeable movement of the Indian tectonic plate in relation to the Asian one. Because the region is seismically active, Everest's height increases by about a quarter of an inch each year.

The mountain is predominantly composed of sedimentary rocks. Strong hurricanes blow at its top: wind speeds sometimes exceed 200 km/h. Climbing Everest without special thermal clothing is simply impossible, because even at the height of summer average temperature air temperature here is no more than 0 °C. In winter, the thermometer often drops to -40 °C (at night the temperature can drop to -50 -60 °C).

For a long time there has been debate about in which country Mount Everest is located. Since 1959, it has been generally accepted that the mountain giant divides the territories of Nepal and China and is equally considered the national heritage of both states. The coordinates of Mount Chomolungma are 27°59′17″ N. w. 86°55′31″ E d.

Everest tragedies

Conquering Chomolungma remains the ultimate dream of most professional climbers. However, the most high mountain the world is not always inferior to the attempts of climbers to reach its top. It is estimated that from the 1920s to the present time, at least 300 athletes with different levels of training and financial capabilities tried to do this. Only a few daredevils succeeded.

Conquering Everest where your life is at stake

Most extreme sports enthusiasts died during the ascent or descent from oxygen starvation, avalanches, snow avalanches, rockfalls and altitude sickness. At the same time, the circumstances of their death were sometimes simply terrifying: the mountain of death does not forgive the slightest mistake.

Even with the vast capabilities of modern civilization and almost perfect technology, it is not always possible to save climbers and even lower their corpses to the foot of the mountain. After all, helicopters cannot fly at such a height, and few people dare to carry bodies manually and risk their own lives. Therefore, in our time, modern climbers have to literally climb to the top over the corpses of their comrades, many of whom remain on the slopes for decades.

The most creepy and unusual stories The following are considered to be associated with climbing Chomolungma:

On the mountainside lie the remains of Irving and Mallory, the first climbers who, despite the natural elements, conquered the inaccessible mountain back in 1924. However, on the way back they were overtaken by an inexorable death, caused either by oxygen starvation or frostbite. It is not possible to accurately determine this over the years, but athletes confirm that Mallory’s body can still be seen on the southern slope of Everest a little away from the path. The action of wind and other natural conditions easily turned the corpse into almost a skeleton without flesh, producing a terrifying impression.
If you plan to ever climb Chomolungma, rely only on your strength and finances. The best equipment and reliable Sherpa guides are the guarantee that you will be able to return unharmed. After all, on the mountainside, everyone can only rely on themselves. This is well illustrated by the story of climbers from India who suffered from a snow storm while climbing. Their Japanese colleagues, who were rising at almost the same time, calmly walked past people begging for help, only to find them already dead on the way back.
Mystical story associated with the death of English climber David Sharp. He did not have enough money to buy spare equipment or pay for guides. Therefore, when his oxygen tank failed at an altitude of more than 8000 m, the unfortunate athlete simply lost consciousness and was left to die on the slope. Expeditions passed by him, absolutely indifferent to the spectacle of a dying man, hurrying to check in at the top of Everest. One of them was a detachment of well-equipped tourists from the mountaineering of Hall and Weber. With disgust, they stepped over the corpse of Sharpe, who had been dying painfully for several days, but were punished by some mystical forces. Just 100 meters before the summit, Weber’s vision failed and he was forced to turn back, after which he suddenly fell into the hands of a guide and died. His comrade Hall, an experienced rock climber, also felt unwell. Sherpas were sent to help him, but they were never able to bring him to his senses. Only a couple of days later, through the combined efforts of several expeditions, Hall was able to be rescued. He got off quite easily - with just frostbitten hands.
Chomolungma also became the last refuge for couples in love, the most famous of which are Russian climber Sergei Arsentiev and his American-born wife. Having climbed to the top of the mountain without oxygen, they practically set a new record. However, on the way back natural conditions They separated husband and wife, after which the exhausted Frances lay on the southern slope for a couple of days before her death. Attempts to save her were in vain, as they threatened the rescuers themselves with death. Sergei tried to save his beloved, but fell into the abyss. His body was later found in an unusual bowing position, as if he was praying to the mountain.

Ghosts of Everest

When climbing Chomolungma, even seasoned sports masters can be frightened not only by the numerous bodies of brave men who risked everything for the sake of mountaineering records, but also by their restless souls. Stories about the ghosts of Everest are very numerous, and the authorship of many of them belongs to quite sensible and skeptical climbers:

In 1975, one of the participants in the English expedition to Mount Ascot was climbing to the top on cables at night and suddenly, out of the corner of his eye, he noticed a silently moving silhouette behind him. He did not make a sound and stopped along with the frightened athlete. Worried, Escot contacted the camp and learned that no one had left it. However, immediately after the British left, a television cameraman tragically died at the base.
In 2004, climber Dorje, while descending, saw more than 10 translucent silhouettes stretching out their hands to him and begging for food and warmth. Since then, those who dare to confront the natural elements on Everest scatter rice grains, burn juniper branches and pray when climbing. It is believed that this alleviates the suffering of the restless souls of dead climbers.
The famous Italian climber Massner climbed Chomolungma independently and without additional oxygen equipment. Having walked two-thirds of the way to the top, at the site of the death of the first conquerors of the peak in 1924, he saw two translucent figures beckoning to him and eager to eat and warm up. The frightened climber hastened to retreat, mistaking them for hallucinations.

Modern esotericists believe that the thin air and extreme environment of Everest awaken paranormal abilities in a person and provide access to another dimension.

Organization of tours to Chomolungma

The easiest way to get to Everest is to buy air tickets to Kathmandu (the capital of Nepal) for 480 USD – 550 USD. The flight duration is about 11 hours. Foreign tourists are issued a visa directly at the airport, but it is advisable to take a passport photo with you. Its cost is 15 USD for 15 days and 40 USD for 30 days.

After arrival, you can rent a car and drive to one of the base camps: North, which is located on the border with Tibet, or South, located in Nepal. average price climbing the most big mountain planet is approximately:

30,000 USD if you are going to make the climb on your own or with a small organized group of climbers;
60,000 USD if you decide to use the services of a tour operator;
90,000 USD, if you want to make the climb as comfortable and safe as possible (cost included wireless internet and telephone communications).

This price does not include the services of Sherpa guides, with whom it is better to negotiate on the spot. However, these amounts include a fee from the Nepalese government for all climbers coming to Qomolangma. Depending on the season and the number of expedition members, this tax can be 11,000 USD – 25,000 USD.

Climbing Everest will remain one of the most vivid memories of your life, but do not forget that one wrong step can cost you your life.

Mount Everest - Mount Everest is 8848 meters high!

Mount Everest, is the most high mountain on the ground. Mountain height Everest 8,848 meters above sea level. The mountain is part of the Himalayan range in Asia and is located on the border of the countries: Nepal, Tibet and China. It is called Sagarmatha, Chomolungma. And in Nepal it is called Sagamantha, which means “goddess of the sky” and in Tibet - Chomolungma, which means “mother goddess of the Universe”.

In 1856, when the Great Trigonometric Study was carried out, the height of Mount Everest was determined to be 8,840 meters, the mountain was known as Peak XV. And in 1865, on the recommendation of the British topographer Andrei Waugh, it was assigned, official name"Everest". He could not come up with a suitable name for the mountain that would suit both the Nepalese and the Tibetans, so it was decided to call it "Everest"

Mount Everest attracts climbers of all levels, experienced and inexperienced. These climbers come with money and are ready to pay mountain guides (guides) well for a successful ascent to the peak of the mountain. In the mountains, a climber always faces various dangers, such as low temperature, altitude sickness, oxygen deprivation and wind. Despite this height, its peak was climbed by 2,436 people until 2007, and 3,679 ascents were made. This suggests that mountaineering is very popular view sports And for Nepalese it is a significant source of income. The Nepalese government requires that you pay $25,000 per person for a climbing permit. Mount Everest has already killed 210 people, including 8 people during a snow storm in 1996.

History of Mount Everest

The British first began exploring Mount Everest in 1808. This was during the period of the great Trigonometric Survey of India. To determine the location and height of the mountain, they used giant theodolites, weighing up to 500 kg. They reached the foothills of the Himalayas in 1830. But conditions were difficult due to weather conditions and diseases. The season of heavy rains and malaria began, but despite this they were forced to continue observations. Three officers died of malaria, and two others had to retire due to deteriorating health.

It was only in 1856 that Andrei Vaugh measured the height of Mount Everest. According to his data, the height of the mountain was 8840 meters. They came to the conclusion that the mountain is the highest point in the world.

Their next task was to decide on the name of the peak, but they wanted to somehow preserve the local names: Kanchenjung or Dhaulagiri. But Waugh claimed that he was unable to find any commonly used local name that would appeal to both Nepalese and Tibetans. The most famous name of the mountain, which existed for several centuries, was Chomolungma. But Waugh argued that it would be difficult to find a consensus in favor of one specific name, and he proposed naming the peak XV George Everest. But George Everest himself was opposed to such a name for the peak. And another problem arose with the name George Everest. This name in Hindi was translated as “a native of India.” However, this name still prevailed, despite all the objections. And in 1865 the royal geographical society the name was officially adopted as “Everest”, the highest mountain in the world.

There are two main climbing routes: to the southeast ridge from Nepal and to the northeast ridge from Tibet. There were also many other routes; due to the enormous height of Mount Everest and the difficulty of climbing, they are rarely used. In 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay were the first to recognize fifteen routes to the summit of Mount Everest.

History of the ascent of Mount Everest

In 1885, Clinton Thomas Dent, who was the president of the Alpine Club, wrote in his book a description of the ascent of Mount Everest.

In 1921, the expedition was led by George Mallory. His first expedition was an exploratory one, not equipped for serious ascents. They were forced to descend the mountain due to their lack of preparation for the ascent.

In 1922, George Finch climbed using active oxygen, which showed the first excellent ascent speed of Everest, 290 meters per hour. Next, Mallory and Col-Felix-Nordon made a second attempt to conquer the height. But on this expedition, seven people died; they were left under an avalanche.

In 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irwin attempted to climb the Northeast Ridge to the summit; they never returned. In 1999, Mallory's body was discovered by a research expedition. This expedition achieved its goal; they conquered the heights and climbed to the top of Everest.

In 1953, the ninth British expedition led by John Hunt began its ascent to the peak. They had to return back to Nepal. They made two passes. Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans were the first pair to reach 100 meters and had to turn back. Next came the second run, two days later, by the pair of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. They reached the summit and conquered the height of Everest on May 29, 1953 at 11:30 am, through Southern route, stopped to unfurl the British flag and take photos at the top of the peak, were buried in the snow before descending from Everest,

In 1980, Reinhold Messner climbed to a height of three days completely alone, from the base camp to 6500 meters, He reached mountain peak Mount Everest, for the first time without supplemental oxygen.

1996 turned out to be the deadliest year in the history of Mount Everest. Where, trying to descend from the top, as a result of conquering the height, fifteen people died.

In 2005, French pilot Didier Delsalle landed a helicopter on the top of Mount Everest.

In 2008, China laid 130 km of asphalt concrete pavement along a dirt road from Tingri County to Everest Base Camp. It has become the most expensive road surface in the world. The China Telecom company near the base camp has built a high cell tower that provides telephone coverage along the entire route to top of Mount Everest.

Top of the world. Everest. March 24th, 2013

Clickable 8000 px

Over all these years of climbing Everest, more than 200 people died, and only a few bodies were lowered from the top. The rest are buried by meters of snow or exposed to the winds and “meet” other climbers on the way to the top. These are the laws of Everest: the higher the altitude, the less humanity remains in people. It happened more than once that a rising group could help those in trouble, but to provide help means ending the campaign, giving up a dream. Many passed by, and when they walked back, help was no longer needed.

Vladimir Vysotsky has a song “ Better than the mountains there can only be mountains,” and that’s true. The only exception is Chomolungma. What does a climber experience when he has conquered the main peak in his life? Joy or disappointment that the main goal has been achieved and there will be “smaller” mountains in the future?!

Initially, the peak was not considered the highest in the world; according to the results of the first topographic survey (1823-1843), it was included in the classifier as peak “XV” (Dhualagiri was in the lead on this list). And only after the second topographic survey (1845-1850) everything fell into place.

IN 1921 year, the first expedition to Chomolungma with the aim of reconnaissance of the ascent route from the north, from Tibet. Based on reconnaissance data, the British, under the leadership of Mallory, stormed the peak in 1922, but monsoon, snowfall and lack of experience in high-altitude climbing prevented them from making the ascent.

IN 1924 year - the third expedition to Chomolungma. The group spent the night at an altitude of 8125 m, the next day one of the participants (Norton) reached an altitude of 8527 m, but was forced to return. A few days later, a second attempt was made to storm the north-eastern ridge (the Mallory, Irvine team using oxygen cylinders), the climbers did not return, there is still an opinion that they could have been on the top of Chomolungma.

Subsequent pre-war expeditions to the area did not bring new results.

IN 1952 year - a Swiss expedition set out to storm Everest from the south. Twice in 1952, Lambert and Norgay Tenzing climbed above 8,000 meters, but on both occasions the weather forced them to turn around.

IN 1953 year - the English expedition under the leadership of Colonel Hunt went to Everest (Qomolungma), they were also joined by New Zealand climbers, one of whom was E. Hillary, they were supposed to help the British cross the Khumbu Icefall, Sherpa Norgay Tenzing was included in the assault group . There is a legend that the conquest of Everest was prepared as a gift for Queen Elizabeth II on the day of her coronation.

On May 27, the first pair - the British Evans and Bourdillon - reached the southern peak, where they left oxygen and a tent for the next assault group.

A May 29, 1953 Sherpa Norgay Tenzing and New Zealander Edmund Hillary reached the summit.

May 8, 1978 years, R. Messner and P. Habeler accomplished what was considered impossible - the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Messner described his feelings this way: “In a state of spiritual abstraction, I no longer belonged to myself, to my vision. I am nothing more than a lonely panting lung, floating above the mists and peaks.”

The first ascent of Soviet climbers to the highest peak on Earth took place in May 1982. A Soviet team of 9 people climbed to the top of Everest along a very difficult, previously unclimbed route along the southwest face.

Everyone knows that Mount Chomolungma is the highest in the world. However, this statement can be considered true if you do not take into account absolute altitude. Chomolungma soars high above sea level at maximum height among the mountains of our planet. At the same time, there is Mauna Kea volcano, which “grows” from the ocean floor, so its actual height is greater.

History of the name

The Tibetan name Qomolangma is translated from Tibetan as “Divine Mother of Vital Energy.” So unusual name The mountain was given in honor of the Bonn goddess Sherab Zhamma, who is a symbol of maternal energy. The Tibetans also gave a second name to Mount Chomolungma - Jomo Gang Kar, which translates as “Holy Mother, white as snow.”

Another very popular and common name comes from in English, since it was awarded to the summit in recognition of the services of George Everest. He was a well-known specialist in the field of geodetic research at the beginning of the 19th century. The scientist’s successor and student proposed his surname as the name of the mountain after one of the employees of the service where Everest worked made the very first measurement of “Peak XV,” which was considered the highest in Eurasia and on the planet.

There is another name given to the mountain by the people of Nepal. In their language, Chomolungma is pronounced Sagarmatha. It means "mother of the universe." The highest peak (Mount Chomolungma) is treated with special reverence in Nepal, which is why local residents prefer to call it in their native language.

Local landmark

In the 14th-15th centuries, Tibetan monks built a monastery on the northern slope of Everest that still exists today. It's called Ronkbook. From its courtyard, the mountain looks especially attractive and impressive. You can see the top from mountain passes, which are located hundreds of kilometers away.

Mountain location

It is no secret that many of us know about Mount Chomolungma from school geography lessons. Continent Eurasia is the territory where the highest peak is located. Even people who do not have deep knowledge of geography know in which hemisphere the mountain is located. However, not everyone knows in which country Mount Chomolungma is located. We hasten to fill this gap - this is China. In fact, the mountain belongs to two countries - China and Nepal, but its highest point (Northern peak) is geographically part of China.

The height of Mount Chomolungma in China is 8848 meters. The southern peak is slightly inferior to it in this indicator. In Nepal, the height of Mount Chomolungma is 8760 meters. As you can see, the difference is not very great (88 meters), but the Chinese are very proud that the highest peak in the world is located on their land. And if you are interested in the exact geographical coordinates of Mount Chomolungma, then they are as follows: 27°5917 N. w. and 86°5531 E. d.

Thousands of climbers from all over the world come to these places every year to conquer Everest, but not everyone succeeds. Mountain system with Mount Chomolungma is part of the Mahalangur-Himal ridge and is part of the Himalaya massif. With its shape, this mountain resembles a pyramid with three sides. The southern slope is exposed and steep, since it is from this side that the snow and ice slide down.

Due to the enormous height of Everest, the winds here are fierce almost all year round. Their speed can reach 200 m/s. In summer the air does not warm up above 0 °C; in January the temperature drops to -35 °C during the daytime and to -50 °C at night. You can see what Mount Chomolungma looks like in the photos that we posted in this review. Agree, the top looks amazing.

Climate

Mount Chomolungma is distinguished by its extreme climatic conditions. In the coldest month of the year (January), the average air temperature is -36 °C, in some years it drops to -60 °C. Even in the warmest month (July) the air does not warm up above -19 °C. The pressure at the top is only 326 mbar. This is a third of the pressure at sea level. At this pressure, the boiling point of water is 70 °C.

In spring and winter, westerly winds prevail here. Upon contact with the cold peak, the moist air condenses and forms a flag-shaped cloud that is directed to the east. Climbers determine the wind speed by this flag: the flag is in a horizontal position at a wind speed of 80 km/h, when the speed increases, it is directed upward, and when the speed decreases, it is directed downward.

IN winter time The speed of the southwest wind is often 285 km/h. From June to September from Indian Ocean Monsoons arrive at the summit. This time is characterized big amount precipitation, and snow storms are common at the top. As in most high mountain areas, sudden changes in weather are possible here. Quite often this happens during the main climbing seasons (May – October). Sudden drops in temperature, snowfalls and storms are not uncommon in these areas. Each season has several days with fairly stable weather. These are the so-called windows when ascent is most favorable.

Flora and fauna

Due to the extreme conditions on Mount Qomolungma, the animal and vegetable world there's not much variety here. At an altitude of 6.7 thousand meters in 1924, a small jumping spider Euophrys omnisuperstes was discovered. Scientists have found that these insects feed on springtails and flies that live up to a height of 6 thousand meters. And they, in turn, feed on mushrooms and lichens. During the 1925 expedition, 30 species of lichens were recorded.

Only a few species of vertebrates can tolerate such a height - these are several species of birds.

For example, the mountain goose lives up to an altitude of 5.6 thousand meters, and once at an altitude of 7.9 thousand meters a chough, a type of mountain jackdaw, was spotted.

Mountaineering Center

So, we figured out where Mount Chomolungma is located - on the border of two countries - China and Nepal. Now I would like to talk about daredevils trying to conquer the greatest peak in the world.

A British expedition went to Nepal in 1953. On May 26, the first attempt was made, but Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon failed to reach the summit by just one hundred meters and were forced to return due to lack of oxygen.

At the end of May, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary conquered the most highest peak peace. They made a short stop, took photos, and before starting their descent, buried a small cross and some candies in the snow. The names of these pioneers are inscribed in the history of climbing Everest. Their success inspired many mountain climbers, and it should be noted that many expeditions succeeded in this difficult journey.

According to statistics, for 235 people, attempts to conquer Everest ended tragically. However, these data do not stop those who want to get to the top and realize their old dream. The main difficulty of climbing to the top is the increase in atmospheric pressure with altitude and the decrease in air temperature - it becomes difficult not only to move, but also to breathe.

The routes here are also dangerous - Mount Chomolungma has a specific shape, there are many ledges and gorges. Despite all the obstacles, brave climbers still dream of conquering the magnificent peak. Nowadays, rock climbing enthusiasts climb to the top along pre-developed routes.

Base camps

Those who decide to conquer the top of Mount Chomolungma can choose one of two options - start the climb from China or master the Nepalese route. There are two base camps for acclimatization to altitude and atmospheric pressure. In each of them, novice climbers and professionals need to spend some time so that the body fully adapts to new conditions: acclimatization in this case is not a whim of the climb organizers, it helps prevent the development of mountain sickness.

Both camps employ experienced doctors who not only assess the health status of climbers, but also give them useful tips before climbing.

Which camp to choose?

On the Nepal side there is a southern camp, and on the Chinese side there is a northern camp, into which summer time can be reached by car. IN last years Camping on the south side is becoming increasingly popular. Residents of the surrounding villages, formerly engaged in livestock raising and agriculture, are now completely focused on serving tourists. They help transport items and supplies to intermediate upper control points.

Food, medicine, equipment and everything necessary are delivered to the southern base camp with the help of local pack animals - yaks. In addition to the main camps on the way to Mount Qomolungma, there are several other small points that are located both before and after the main ones.

How long will it take to prepare and climb?

If we're talking about Regarding tourist expeditions, the duration of the ascent (from the moment of arrival in Kathmandu and ending with the conquest of the peak) is about two months. After careful preparation, it will take about 7 days to walk from base camp to the summit. It will take approximately 5 days to descend to the camp.

Climbing to the top is allowed only in spring and autumn, since during this period there is the least wind. In autumn, the ascent is carried out only from the south side. The last three hundred meters are considered the most difficult, but all difficulties are instantly forgotten at the sight of the unearthly beauty opening from the top. Not a single photo can compare with the picture that opens before the conqueror of Chomolungma; emotions greatly enhance the effect of what he sees.

Dimensions of the mountain

The height of Chomolungma was measured relatively recently. The first such estimate appeared in 1852 as a result of trigonometric calculations. In the 1950s, theodolites were already used for this purpose. As a result, it was possible to establish the exact value, which is equal to 8848.13 m. Somewhat later, information began to appear in which these values fluctuated either less or less. big side. This was explained by the fact that the peak is made up of glaciers, which can grow and shrink. The officially recognized height of Everest is 8848 meters, and at around 8844 meters its solid rock ends.

The best assistants of all climbers without exception are the Sherpas - the people living at the foot of Chomolungma. Without them, not a single ascent takes place. Usually they carry things, make routes, and sometimes cook.
Representatives of the Sherpas - Phurba Tashi and Apa Sherpa - became record holders for the number of ascents to the top. They conquered it 21 times. He reached the very top three times in 2007, Phurba, and in the period from 1990 to 2011 he conquered the peak of Apa. He talked a lot about the changes on Chomolungma caused by global warming. He was worried about the melting ice and snow, which made the climbs more difficult every year.
Research in 1994 proved that every year the mountain increases by 4 millimeters. This is due to the continued movement of continental plates, which leads to the growth of mountains.
Today Chomolungma is part of National Park Sagarmatha in Nepal. Interestingly, numerous climbers leave about fifty tons of waste and garbage on the slopes of the mountain every year. In connection with this, the Nepalese authorities passed a law according to which every climber who descends from the peak is required to collect at least eight kilograms of garbage. Those who do not wish to do this must deposit four thousand dollars into the treasury. It is noteworthy that the Nepalese take money as a deposit before the start of the climb and return it only after collecting garbage.
During the ascent, climbers lose about 15 kilograms in weight. This is due to fat burning and loss large quantity moisture.
According to statistics, for every 10 successful climbs to the top, there is one fatality. In total, there are now about 200 remains on the slopes of the mountain, which are simply physically impossible to bring down to the foot and bury.
In 1980, Italian Reinhold Messner managed to conquer Chomolungma alone, without oxygen cylinders.
In 2001, Marco Siffredi snowboarded down from the summit along the Norton Couloir, which runs down the center of the north side of the mountain. He decided to conquer Everest again in 2002, but disappeared without a trace.
A team of 410 Chinese climbers completed the climb in 1975. This expedition became the largest in history.
1993 was the safest year in the history of climbing Everest. Then 129 climbers achieved their goal, and 8 died.
The government of Nepal has published data according to which the youngest conqueror of the peaks was a Sherpa girl who was 15 years old.
Many people know where Mount Chomolungma is located, but not everyone knows that conquering it is not a cheap pleasure. The average price for a group climb will cost you $60,000. An independent climb to the top will cost 70 thousand dollars or more.
There is a dead zone on the mountain, starting at the very finish - at an altitude of 7.9 thousand meters. This area received such a gloomy name due to the fact that the air in this area contains only a third of the oxygen compared to the atmosphere at sea level. It is for this reason that ascents, as a rule, take place with oxygen cylinders.