Altai Mountains on your own by car. Top places to go in Altai. A long-time dream of living in a village turned into a move from Krasnoyarsk to the Altai Mountains. Recreation center "AltaiRai"
Almost three years have passed since my family and I settled in Ongudai. Looking back, the decision at that time to give up everything no longer seems so spontaneous: an apartment in a new comfortable building, a promising job, property acquired over the years. And all because of a long-standing dream - to live away from the bustle of the city, smoking factory chimneys, drunken neighbors, noisy life big city. For several years now recent years the soul was yearning for freedom, closer to the sources, nature, silence. Perhaps the dream of having my own house in the village would have remained a dream if not for one event that changed my whole life.
How to choose a place to move
Two years before the move, my work colleagues and I took our next vacation, instead of a boring holiday at sea, we went on an extreme trip by car around. I won't describe all the details of this. have a fascinating trip with tents, fishing and rafting on wild mountain rivers. I will only note that upon returning, the goal was set - to move to this marvelous preserved corner of nature as soon as possible.
However, selling the apartment turned out to be not so easy; we had to reduce the price significantly in order to quickly find a buyer. Autumn was approaching, and they wanted to postpone the move, but unexpectedly a buyer was found. In two weeks, all large-sized items were sold out; container transportation was immediately abandoned due to the high cost. The fact that I worked in a large construction company with a good salary and the prospect of a promotion to head of a department in the near future did not stop me from moving. Many at work were unable to understand the reason for my dismissal, but it took a long time to persuade me; as they say, there are no irreplaceable people.
Everything was ready for departure; all that remained was to decide on the choice of place. Between the Altai Territory and the Altai Republic, it was decided to give preference to the latter, since Altai region was more of an industrial and agricultural area, but I wanted to go deeper into nature. But at the same time, I didn’t really want to vegetate in a godforsaken village. Therefore, it was decided to choose one of the regional centers: Maima, Turochak, Chemal, Shebalino, Ongudai and Kosh-Agach. Turochak and Chemal were discarded for the reason that they are tourist centers and housing there is quite expensive, Maima is too close to the capital of the Altai Republic, and Kosh-Agach has harsh winters and short summers. As a result, a village with a polyphonic name was chosen - Ongudai (which means “seven peaks” in translation from Altai), which is located in the very center Gorny Altai.
First impressions
All the necessary things were collected, and my family and I hit the road in September 2011. A little more than a day in a compartment of the Krasnoyarsk-Biysk train, and further trains do not go, you can only get there by bus or car. We were lucky; a private driver agreed to take us to our destination for a modest reward of 5 thousand rubles. As it turned out later, it was possible to get to Ongudai by bus for 700 rubles per person, but it would have taken longer. The driver had previously worked as a truck driver and often transported cargo throughout Altai, so he knew these places well. While we were driving, he gave a mini-excursion along the way, talking about local attractions, the main one of which was the village of Srostki. This is the birthplace of the writer and actor V.M. Shukshin, where his house-museum is located. Famous theater and film actors come here every year.
The first impression of the trip was a perfectly smooth road - Federal highway M-52 or "Chuysky Tract". No matter how many times I have traveled around Russia, I have never seen such a smooth road. There are no bumps, potholes, or patch repairs, and this despite the heavy natural conditions: on one side of the road there are steep cliffs, and on the other there is a deep abyss. The M-52 highway is the only road that connects the village of Ongudai with civilization, so it is closely monitored by road services. In addition, along this road through Kosh-Agach you can travel abroad to the Russian Federation - to Mongolia or China.
"Chuysky tract". Photo by expert684 (http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/expert684)
To others a vivid impression became the pearl of Altai - the Katun River. It originates from most beautiful place- Belukha Mountains, flows through the entire Altai and flows into the Ob. This is a powerful mountain river, along which hundreds of tourists raft, and in the fall it acquires a beautiful turquoise hue. If you ever decide to go to Altai, it is best to do it in the fall. In the spring, hundreds of small rivers flow into the Katun, which make the waters of the Katun muddy, but in the fall it acquires that very turquoise hue, because of which thousands of tourists come from all over Russia and even from other countries. The Katun also attracts many fishermen, as it is home to fish such as grayling and taimen. Along the Katun and the Chuysky tract, many recreation centers, hotels, cafes and souvenir shops have been built, since more than 50% of all business in Altai is related to tourism.
Katun in autumn. Photo by avante22 (http://fotki.yandex.ru/users/avante22/)
Ongudai
The village of Ongudai is located between two highest points - the Seminsky pass (1717 m) and the Chike-Taman pass (1460 m). They say that previously cars moving towards each other had difficulty passing through the pass, but now the road is so wide that you barely notice the pass, only your ears are blocked from the difference in altitude. Not far from the Seminsky pass there is a ski base where athletes from our country's national ski team train. alpine skiing. Leaving the Seminsky pass behind, half an hour later the village of Ongudai opened to our eyes. It is located along the Ursul River, and its population numbers over 5 thousand people, of which only a third are Russians, and the rest are indigenous Altaians. The journey from Biysk to Ongudai took only five hours.
The first thing that struck me was the modernity of the village. The information that could be gleaned before leaving on the Internet was clearly outdated. They wrote that in the village there are a couple of small shops, which sometimes deliver bread, milk, cookies and bananas. It turned out that this was far from the case. There are two large supermarkets in the village, shopping mall, two dozen small shops, a large Sberbank building with a 24-hour ATM, three canteens and a hotel, which, as often happens, was overcrowded.
The prices were also pleasantly surprising: at that time the cost of a pack of buckwheat in Krasnoyarsk reached 120 rubles, but here it was three times cheaper. But the cost of a hotel room reached 1,500 rubles per day, and it was no longer the season. For those who are planning to come here for permanent place residence or just relax, I would recommend not staying at a hotel, but renting an apartment. Renting a house in the center of the village costs about 3,000 rubles a month; you must agree, it’s much cheaper than a hotel. We didn’t know this and spent over 15 thousand rubles for staying in a hotel house for two weeks until we found permanent housing.
Buying a house
People here approach the construction and renovation of a house this way: who can do what, depending on who has how much money. In general, Ongudai looks colorful, but at the same time pleasing to the eye. It is immediately clear that the village is not standing still; many new mansions are being built. Our plans were to build the house we dreamed of, but we had already arrived late autumn, so we decided to buy a house.
The choice was small, mostly old houses costing 700 thousand rubles and more. We bought a house built in the 80s for 1 million rubles, but replaced the old roof with metal tiles, covered the house with siding, renovated the rooms and ended up spending another 300 thousand rubles.
At first it was not normal to live. The house had no hot water, central heating, toilet, bathtub or shower. Instead, there was only cold water, a stove that had to be heated with wood to keep the house warm, an outdoor toilet and a bathhouse. Those who have extra money can afford such urban amenities as a toilet, shower and hot water in the house, but we had little money left, and we were content with little.
I would like to say a few words about the bathhouse. Yes, you need to get some water and melt it properly, but what a thrill you get when you steam in a bathhouse with a birch broom, wash off all the dirt and fatigue, throw a bucket of ice-cold well water over yourself, and then drink tea with currants. A bathhouse cannot be compared with washing in a bathtub or taking a shower. Only for this reason does it make sense to drop everything and go to the village. For those who are planning to do this, I would like to advise: do not buy an old house, but buy land plot and build a new log house. Construction will be cheaper, since there will be no need to make repairs, and it will last much longer.
How do they live in Ongudai?
As I wrote above, Ongudai is a modern village. There is cellular and the Internet, the renovation of a school and hospital was recently completed. But getting a job here is not so easy; there is a high unemployment rate in the village. Most of the population are Altaians, so it’s difficult for Russians to break through. Altaians can be divided into those who are successful and drive cool cars, and those who either drink hard, not wanting to work, or live off the production of pine nuts and berries, collecting firewood, and doing subsistence farming.
I also spent a year in an employment center, where they couldn’t offer me anything other than work as a shepherd; I couldn’t find a suitable job in my specialty (economist). Here they prefer to hire Altaians for the position of engineer or manager. Therefore, I had to look for another type of activity that would generate some income. I have been working at a camp site for a private entrepreneur for 1.5 years now. I work as a bartender from spring to fall during the season, and also clean the pool. In the fall, the men and I harvest pine nuts, from which we can make very good money. In winter there is no work - I rest, but it’s not for long, a couple of months. But I don’t lose hope of getting a job in my specialty.
Most of the population live off tourists: they rent out rooms, organize hikes and rafting trips, and sell souvenirs. It is not uncommon to see tourists from Moscow, Rostov, St. Petersburg, as well as Germany, France and other countries. They are attracted to Altai by its originality, mystery and attractive power of wild nature.
As for food prices, they are the same as everywhere else, maybe a little cheaper due to the proximity to the Altai Territory, which is known for its developed agriculture. The average salary in Ongudai is small - 6-8 thousand rubles, but electricity tariffs are very high, plus on top of that you need to add the cost of firewood - 1000 rubles per 1 cubic meter. m. For the winter you need at least 15 cubic meters or two medium-sized trucks. It is better to buy firewood from larch, as it burns longer. In general, more than half of the local forests consist of larch, so it is widely used as lumber. Log houses made from larch are strong, they do not rot and will last a long time.
Climate
For people accustomed to city comfort, life in the village at first seems difficult. Winters in Ongudai are as harsh as in Siberia, but with little snow, which is why the ground freezes and the water freezes. In the first year we experienced this ourselves. The water in the house and nearby pumps froze, and until spring we had to carry buckets of water from distant pumps. Washing in the bathhouse was a real challenge - you had to carry 20 buckets of water. But over time you get used to everything. I, an economist by profession, who had never held an ax in my hand, had to learn how to chop wood, do carpentry, and build a stove. What can I say, during our entire life in the city we didn’t even have a garden plot, but here you can’t live without it.
The weather in Ongudai is very changeable, scorching heat gives way to heavy rain with hail and chilly wind. Therefore, in order to grow a crop, you need to monitor the weather and cover the beds at the right time. Without any experience, in the first year we collected a good harvest of potatoes, zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers, tomatoes and other vegetables, and now we are experimenting with growing melons and watermelons. Behind the garden there is a forest, full of berries and mushrooms. Surprisingly, there are no mosquitoes or midges in the forest, since for many kilometers you will not find swamps, and you also don’t have to be afraid of encountering a wolf, bear or other predator. Sometimes in the forest you can see deer, hares, and sable. On alpine meadows Cows, horses, and sheep graze calmly. In Altai you can find nurseries where they breed deer to produce medicines from antler horns.
Surprise from space
No matter how much we sought solitude with nature, we were never able to escape from civilization. It turned out that the village of Ongudai is located on the flight path of a spacecraft launched in Baikonur. Its flight over the village can even be observed with the naked eye in clear weather. It is accompanied by the fall of the second stage, causing a rumble and shaking of the earth. Local residents are already accustomed to this and do not pay much attention. In general, local youth tend to leave the village in search of work and better life, because there is nowhere to go to rest. There are no cinemas, restaurants or clubs in Ongudai. There is only a house of culture, to which Altai national ensembles occasionally come. Despite all this, people come to live in Ongudai from Novosibirsk, Rostov, Moscow and other cities.
35 km from Ongudai is the Gazprom residence “Altai Compound” or, as it is called local residents, "Putin's dacha". The place is very picturesque - located between the mountains near the Katun. Travel there is strictly prohibited; there is a checkpoint on the way, and no one is allowed in without a special pass. But there were many people willing, especially in the first years of construction. A lot of negative things have been written and said about “Putin’s dacha” both by the press and local population, but that's already in the past. In general, they say that this dacha is intended for personal meetings between the heads of Russia and China on the construction of a gas pipeline to China. They say that the pipe will pass through Ongudai, so in the near future it may be possible to supply gas to the houses of the village. In general, Gorny Altai attracts the attention of not only tourists, but also officials. Here you can find the dachas of Medvedev, Kudrin, Gref, etc.
Putin's dacha. Photo http://www.nakvadrate.ru/
For those who, like us, decided to give up everything and move to Altai, I would like to give some advice. There are many beautiful, but at the same time modern places where you can settle: Uimon Valley, Chemal, Turochak, Manzherok. The village of Chemal has a mild and warm climate, which can be compared to the Black Sea coast. Here you can grow heat-loving garden crops, such as apricots, apple trees, and cherries. And those who suffer from pulmonary diseases can improve their health thanks to the healing mountain air and the cedar forest, rich in phytoncides, located along the village.
Near Turochak there is a large fresh Lake Teletskoye, which also attracts tourists, so business tourism is well developed in the village.
Uimonskaya Valley is located at the foot of Belukha Mountain, where the Katun River originates. The ancient villages of the Old Believers still remained there, and at the beginning of the twentieth century, the route of Roerich’s expedition lay through these places in search of the mysterious Shambhala. Due to the large flow of tourists, housing prices in these villages are not affordable for everyone. Therefore, you can settle in not too expensive villages, such as Ongudai, Shebalino or Maima.
I also want to advise everyone - there is no need to be afraid to dramatically change your life. From my own experience I know how difficult it is to change the established course of life: home, family, work. But you just have to really want it, put in a little effort, and you can achieve your goal - make your old dream come true.
Sofia Glacier Gorge
Interesting places in Altai and how to get to them.
Altai is huge and different. You can come here every year for the rest of your life and discover something new every time. In this post I share with you my favorite places where you can drive an SUV and walk a little here and there. Altai will be completely on foot next time :)
When to go to Altai (seasons) and some features
You can travel around Altai all year round, But:
- In winter it’s certainly cold here, but it’s fabulously beautiful because everything is covered in snow. Avalanches are possible in the mountains and it is worth walking on them, understanding what avalanche areas are.
- At the beginning of summer it is good, but there is a lot of water on the gorge roads and ticks.
- There are many recreation centers in the foothills of Altai (Chemal, Lake Teletskoye, etc.) and it’s nice here all year round.
- The best time for hiking and traveling in Altai: August-September, when you can even drive to the Ukok plateau (less water) and the least number of ticks.
What else is important to know about traveling in Altai:
- In tourist Altai (Chemal, Teletskoye) there are many tourists, but also many amenities. It is easy to get here by hitchhiking and by public transport.
- The most interesting places Altai is located where buses do not go and hitchhiking is very, very rare (not every day), occasionally you come across houses with local shepherds within 100 km. You can get to such places partially by off-road vehicles, or walk through them.
- The off-road in Altai is magnificent. You can see many beautiful and different places. Let's see which ones exactly.
- (I’ll remember something else important, I’ll be sure to add it :).
Interesting places in Altai for traveling by car, coordinates and photos
Sofia Glacier Gorge
In general, from the village of Beltir you can go to different gorges and they are all beautiful. You can get to the Sofia Glacier in autumn. In winter there is a lot of snow, and in early summer there is too much water in the gorge. Coordinates: 49.794444°, 87.772222°
You can read how to use Google coordinates
Sofia Glacier Martian landscapes outside the village of Beltir
You will pass such landscapes on the way to the Sofia Glacier or Karagemsky and other gorges. This is not the popular Altai Mars that I write about below, but it looks even more real.
Martian Altai, Kyzyl-Chin gorge behind the village of Chagan-Uzun
And this is “ Martian landscapes Altai”, where they take you on excursions. You will have to find this place without coordinates, by looking on Google maps where Chagan-Uzun is located. After it there is a small puzzle in the form of branching roads and you are on Mars.
Vershina (repeater) behind the village of Aktash
Google Place coordinates: 50.34001,87.748672 You can climb here by SUV right to the very top, driving from Aktash past the abandoned one. The views from the top are amazing.
Teletskoye Lake at night
You can approach the lake from two sides. For those who are not interested in easy ways - South coast Lake Teletskoye, which can be reached through the Katu-Yaryk pass and the valley of the Chulyshman River. The road is quite tiring, but the views here are more beautiful. There are houses on the shore where you can stay or pitch tents. Coordinates: 51.347994, 87.776104
An easier way to get to Lake Teletskoye is to approach it from the northern side through the village of Artybash, using public transport.
Chulyshman River Valley and Katu-Yaryk Pass
Descent into the valley straight along the serpentine road, which is in the photo↓. The road is considered unsafe, but to be honest, I never felt in danger going down it. We go and eat for ourselves, admiring the views. Even pussies pass through here, although some have trouble getting up afterwards. Google Coordinates: 50.911640, 88.216379
And here is a video from those places:
Teacher pass, Aktru gorge
Pass Teacher located in the Aktru gorge. Height is about 3150 meters. Difficulty category 1A. One of the easiest category passes in the gorge, which can be climbed and descended in about 4-5 hours.
Google coordinates: 50.084444, 87.778611
View from the rise to the Uchitel pass Mountain trails in the Aktru gorge area, trail to the Blue Lake and Aktru glacier
There are many places to go in Aktru Gorge. The routes here are very difficult, where you can only go with equipment and in bundles, and simple, where you can “escape” in a few hours. You can ask climbers at the base about routes.
Aktru Base is a place worth visiting in itself. Firstly, because it’s not so easy to get here by car and if you’ve driven through, then that’s already cool, and secondly, it’s wonderful here...
Blue lake near Aktru glacier
Blue Lake- a transshipment base for climbers ascending to the peak or Aktru glacier. An amazing place that is worth a walk from the Aktru base. This will take about 4-5 hours. Google Coordinates: 50.077716, 87.724579
Peak Dome of Three Lakes
The difficulty of climbing to the top of the Dome is 1B. You can spend the whole day going up and down (about 12 hours). There are two ways to go here. It is recommended to climb with a guide. In winter - with cats. In any case, before the climb, you will have to talk with knowledgeable people at the Aktru base to find out the route and the safety of the climb. The ascent starts from the Aktru camp. The coordinates of the Dome are approximately here:): 50.044800, 87.806500
Glade behind the Karagem Pass
Location coordinates: 49.962720, 87.622576
The place is beautiful, but you can only get here in a prepared SUV and it’s better not alone, because sometimes you have to pull each other out. The road is difficult. There are many fords with large stones, slopes and...lack of a road. But it's definitely worth it. Get there from Beltir. There is a bathhouse in the clearing itself :)
The road from the clearing to the Karagem Pass.
Ukok Plateau
Ukok is a plateau located at the junction of the borders of Kazakhstan, China, Mongolia and Russia. The altitude here is 2200-2500 m, the wind blows, and in winter the temperature drops to -50. The most high point Ukoka - Mount Kuiten-Uul 4374 (the second highest in Altai).
Ukok is a place of ancient burials; it is here that archaeologists unearthed the princess of Ukok. The place is strange, cold, wonderful. It attracts you again and again... It is more likely to travel here in August-September. In spring and early summer there is a lot of water. You can get to Ukok either through the Teply Klyuch pass (the most likely way) or through the Dzhazator River.
Plateau coordinates: 49.268354, 87.413683
Warm key: 49.408177, 88.035687
“Road” on Ukok in August 
And this is an attempt to drive to Ukok across the Dzhazator River. The attempt failed) 
The way home from Altai. Chuysky tract *All other places do not fit here, because Altai is vast and there is always everything else that has not yet been explored... There is also Tuva through the Buguzun pass and many many gorgeous places.
Man 47 years old Kuibyshev, NSO Companion: Tourist Age: 35 55 Date: 17 8 2020Igor Man 47 years old Kuibyshev, NSO Companion: Tourist Age: 35 55 Date: 17 8 2020
I'm looking for a travel companion to share hiking 7-8 days from the village of Elekmonar through the Karakol lakes to the south of Lake Teletskoye. The length of the route is 205 km, good physical preparation is required. WhatsApp 89538770103.
Margarita Young woman 27 years Novosibirsk Companion: Tourist Age: 18 65 Date: 7 6 2020
I'm looking for a travel companion on a horseback riding trip. The group is almost complete, there are a couple of spots left. Route: Biyka base (Chemal district) - Chash-Mesh - Kyzylgak - Toguskol - Lake MANAS - 9 mountain lakes. Transfer, meals, everything is organized. Dates: 7.06-15.06 Most beautiful time- on these dates Altai blooms!
Sergey Man 39 years Gornoaltaisk Travel companion: Girl Age: 28 35 Date of: 2020
I am looking for a calm, adequate, slender girl to travel together around the Altai Republic on an SUV, spring, summer, autumn, the route is discussed together.
Daria and Dmitry Couple M+F 27 years Nizhny Novgorod Companion: Tourist Age: 20 45 Date: 1 7 2020
We are going to the Altai Republic in July 2020 for two weeks to visit different places. We are going to rent a car, we are looking for travel companions for a shared trip and car rental. We'll discuss all the details. Write to WhatsApp, Viber 89101358187
Irina Young woman 30 years Novokuznetsk Companion: Tourist Age: 25 40 Date: 10 3 2020
In the first half of March I am going to the Altai Mountains for 5 days. I will split the fuel costs with a travel companion for the car. The route is discussed. I can conduct conversations on a wide variety of topics) WhatsApp 89521661867.
ALEXANDER Couple M+F 38 years NOVOSIBIRSK Companion: Tourist Age: 27 55 Date: 4 7 2020
Around July 4, 2020 we are planning a trip to Altai!!! The final goal is the South of Lake Teletskoye in a prepared Chevrolet Niva (of course, I said this strongly, but I didn’t climb the pass in other cars, and if anything happens I’ll abandon this one (a joke... it was very expensive). We want to visit the Karakol Lakes, Stone Mushrooms again , the Uchar waterfall and other related attractions. We’ve been to many places in Altai (twice every year). We’re going with a 9-year-old child (a girl with a character like her mother)... and an unmarried colleague who is a therapist (haha, 30 years old). ). We will be happy to team up with an adequate company for travel! You can WhatsApp 89232453400 or email [email protected], of course, there is also an index... 632951 is possible by Russian Post, but don’t count on it too much.........
Denis Man 38 years Novokuznetsk Companion: Tourist Age: 20 40 Date: 1 3 2020
In the first half of March, on the 1st-5th, I start from Novokuznetsk to the Altai Mountains, then to Baikal. Auto prepared SUV. Looking for 2 passengers to share fuel costs. I’ll also send you reports and films from past travels in a private message.
Anatoly Tourist 70 years old Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky Travel companion: Man Age: 30 70 Date of: 2020
I am looking for a travel companion for a trip to the Altai Mountains on horseback or by car in September-October. The main purpose is photography. Costs are halved. You can have a mountain shelter with radials. Spending the night in a tent is no problem.
Alexander, Maxim. Man 32 years old Barnaul Travel companion: Girl Age: 20 35 Date: 20 9 2019
September 20, at approximately 5 p.m. departure from Barnaul. We are going for the weekend - Chike-Taman pass. Let's take two girls with us.
Semyon Man 44 years old Novosibirsk Travel companion: Girl Age: 30 50 Date: 5 9 2019
Victor Man 42 years old Barnaul Travel companion: Girl Age: 20 35 Date: 2 9 2019
I’m going to the “Katun Valley” in early September. I’m athletic and pleasant in communication and life. I'll take a slender, cheerful Girl as a travel companion. I don't take money
Paul Couple M+F 46 years old Barnaul Companion: Tourist Age: 20 60 Date: 5 9 2019
On September 5 we are leaving Barnaul for the valley of the Chulyshman River. We are looking for travel companions in our four-wheel drive car.
Yulia and Evgeniy Young woman 30 years Omsk Travel companion: Couple M+F Age: 25 40 Date: 12 8 2019
We are looking for travel companions to Yarovoye. 12.08.19 we are going back 08.18.19 a joint vacation is possible.
Alexei Man 27 years Novosibirsk Companion: Tourist Age: 18 40 Date: 11 8 2019
Practical information for those planning a trip to Altai in 2020: how to get there, what are the prices for accommodation and food, list best bases holidays, as well as tips and reviews from tourists for 2019.
Our trip. We traveled by car around the Altai Mountains for a month and a half. The team visited all the most interesting places from Manzherok to the border with Mongolia. We share our experience with you in.
How to get to Altai
By train. There are trains to Biysk, Novosibirsk and Barnaul. Tickets from Moscow to Biysk cost from 12,300 rubles (compartment), they are sold out quickly, and the train runs only on even dates. Tickets to Novosibirsk from the capital are cheaper (from 5,500 rubles in a reserved seat), and there are many more trains.
By car. This the best option, because traveling around the Altai Mountains with your own car is much more interesting, enjoyable and cheaper. My team and I traveled to Altai from Perm for three days and the same amount of time back. The road is normal the main problem There are repair works on the highway, they are very delaying.
Quality of roads in Altai. The Chuysky tract is ideal asphalt, and everything to the side of it is broken roads, dirt roads or off-road terrain of varying degrees of difficulty. In principle, you can go to Altai in any car, you will still be able to see a lot. But an SUV is better - there are places where you simply cannot go in a low car without all-wheel drive. If you don’t have an SUV, you can take a tour or drop off to the desired point from local companies - they are easy to find.
I traveled to the Altai Mountains in my UAZ "Patriot" and thanks to it I got to the most remote places. The only thing I didn’t go to was the Ukok plateau - for this you need a well-prepared SUV and other crews for backup.
Driving along the Chuysky tract in Altai.
The valley of the Yustyd River is the easternmost point of our road expedition to the Altai Mountains. Where to relax in Altai
Most popular. According to the reviews of most tourists, it is best to relax in Altai in the villages of Aya and Chemal, as well as in the north. It's easiest to get there, it's the most developed infrastructure and a large selection of databases. But I think that these places have too many tourists and too little interesting things to do. The real Altai is not there, it is further along the Chuysky tract, beyond the Seminsky pass.
Real Altai. If you're a lover of adventure, secluded places and majestic mountain scenery, look no further than these tourist places. I especially liked these places: Uch-Enmek park, Ilgumen rapids, petroglyphs, Ulagan lakes, Katu-Yaryk pass, Chulyshman river valley, Kurai and Chuy steppes, Mars. All these places have infrastructure: camp sites, cafes, gas stations. Can be reached by any car.
The wildest lands. And the most best places in Altai - those that are difficult and far away to get to. My favorites: Dzhumalinsky springs, Yustyd river valley, Achik pass. There is also the most inaccessible place - the Ukok plateau, I haven’t had the opportunity to get there yet, but I really want to.
So, where is the best place to relax in Altai? If you don’t have the time or desire to travel far into the republic, and you just want to relax in nature, barbecue, go fishing, then choose the villages of Chemal, Aya, Manzherok - in general, Nizhnyaya Katun. If this is not enough for you, you want to see real mountains, Altai steppes, and get acquainted with the local culture, then I recommend driving the entire Chuisky tract to the very border with Mongolia.
I stand and admire the view of the valley of the Chulyshman River. 
Lake Igistu-kol in the Ulagansky district. How to look for housing
Gorny Altai is a rather wild place; there are not as many hotels and recreation centers here as in the south of Russia or Karelia. But fewer tourists come here, so there is usually enough housing for everyone.
But: attention! In the midst summer season, especially on weekends, many people come to Altai to relax. Therefore, you need to book accommodation in advance. During a month and a half of traveling, even in the most remote corners, I saw many cases of tourists arriving at the base, but there were no places. Book your accommodation in advance online or arrive and check in in the morning, before other tourists.
There is a variety of housing: from the budget segment to VIP. Almost every recreation center has a sauna, kitchen, barbecue and internet. In summer, camping is very popular among vacationers in the Altai Mountains - this is the most a budget option. Families with children usually choose comfortable cottages near Katun.
Reviews of holidays in Altai often write about the shortcomings of some tourist centers: dirt, poor-quality or monotonous food, damaged plumbing and shabby furniture. We tried not to pay attention to this; after a week of living in a tent in the taiga, any economy room with a bed and shower was like a royal mansion for us. The service at recreation centers is often lame - for your money they can be rude to you.
Housing prices in Gorny Altai for two:
| Housing | price, rub. | Example |
| Place for a tent | 150-300 | |
| Guest house room | from 800 | Кедровый берег!} |
| Ail or house | from 1200 | |
| Room in resort complex 3 stars | from 1800 | Отель Манжерок!} |
| Junior Suite with great reviews | from 3500 | |
| 4 star hotel with swimming pool | from 4500 | Лесотель!} |
| Chalet near Lake Teletskoye | from 7000 |
Ail at the Tau-Dastarkhan recreation center. How to relax in Altai
What to do on vacation in Gorny Altai:
- excursions,
- mountain trips or multi-day hikes,
- alloys,
- horseback riding,
- relaxation on the banks of rivers or lakes (you can swim, but the water is invigorating),
- fishing,
- picking berries.
Our holiday in Altai. We rode a lot by car, drove the entire Chuysky tract and more. We lived for a long time in tents on the banks of the Katun, in a campsite in Aktash and on the Ulagan lakes. They also lived in traditional villages, hotels and recreation centers. We met and communicated with locals, studied the culture of the Altai people, and took a lot of photos and videos. We often went on small hikes in the forest, picked berries, and swam in the Katun. Most of all we liked the area south of Aktash: steppes and snow-capped mountains. And we went to the famous Mars three times.
Reviews from tourists about holidays in Altai. People really like nature and the grandeur of the mountains, but many are disappointed by the cold waters of rivers and lakes, and heated swimming pools are not yet common. Summer is short and it gets dark early. There are mosquitoes and midges, but not too many.
Martian landscapes of the Altai Mountains. Prices for holidays in Altai in 2020
Many recreation centers in Gorny Altai offer a leisure program for their vacationers, have cafes and restaurants, and organize entertainment and excursions. You can safely surrender into their hands and not worry about anything, but such a vacation will be expensive.
Nutrition the number of cafes depends on the level of the establishment; there are plenty of cafes and canteens along the highway and in large villages. Our average bill is 200-300 rubles per person. Complex meals at recreation centers in Altai cost 700-1000 rubles.
Excursions There are different ones, the prices are high and depend on the intensity of the program and the distance of the trip. Excursions to Chemalskaya HPP, to Lake Manzherok and Mount Sinyukha, Tavdinsky Caves, a visit to the botanical garden, the blooming nursery "Biolit" and the maral garden (rhododendron) - from 500 to 1000 rubles. Full-day excursions with a visit to the mound, the Kalbak-Tash tract, Lake Teletskoye and the Korbu waterfall cost about 2,000 rubles. All places are cheaper and more interesting to visit on your own in your own car.
We came to see the steles in Uch-Enmek Park. Our expenses in Altai
We spent a month and a half in Altai: July-August. We drove our car from Perm in the company of friends, there were five of us. Most We bought food in advance and often cooked it ourselves. We lived in tents, hotels, and recreation centers.
Here are our expenses in terms of two people (except for gasoline - this is the total amount):
| Gasoline for the trip there and back | 23 000 |
| Gasoline in Altai | 10 000 |
| Auto repair | 1 000 |
| Accommodation on the way | 5 600 |
| Housing in Altai | 19 500 |
| Products | 21 500 |
| Cafe | 10 700 |
| Coffee stock | 3 400 |
| Internet and communications | 1 700 |
| Attractions | 1 300 |
| Life | 5 000 |
| Tick vaccinations | 3 500 |
| Medicines | 2 900 |
| Total for two | 109,100 rubles |
Additional expenses: tourist equipment - 48,000 rubles. I had to buy a lot, but these things were not enough for one trip.
If you don’t count gasoline and housing along the way, repairs, vaccinations, a first aid kit and coffee beans (which we personally can’t live without), you’ll get 70,000 rubles for two or 35,000 rubles per person. These are pure expenses for the holiday itself in the Altai Mountains. Very little! After all, we spent a month and a half there and visited everywhere.
We arrived at the Achik pass, from here you can see all the main ridges of the Altai Mountains. The best recreation centers in Gorny Altai
Recreation center "AltaiRai"
Lovers active rest and unity with nature can stay in the summer at the AltaiRai recreation center in the village of Elekmonar. Three meals a day in the dining room, there is a bar and a cafe. Bathhouse, free parking, private beach, water park, bicycle rental, horse riding, travel agency. Accommodation in standard double room- from 3500 rubles per day.
Park Hotel "Manzherok"
The year-round recreation center is located in pine forest on the bank of the Katun River. Nearby is a village, ski slope And cable car. Large buildings made of wood and stone, beautiful and well-kept grounds, barbecue area, open pool, sauna and terrace. It is very convenient to relax with children. Accommodation from 1500 to 3600 rubles per day, meals in the dining room are paid, breakfast is included in the price. Among the shortcomings: the rooms do not have daily change of towels and linen, and there is not always internet.
Recreation center "Zaimka Kamza"
The recreation center "Zaimka Kamza" in the village of Tyuguryuk is located in an equally picturesque place. The area is very large and beautiful, there is street lighting and wooden decking, neat wooden houses made in the same style. There is an outdoor swimming pool and a children's playground, gazebos, and deer are kept on the territory. Accommodation costs from 2000 rubles for a double room. Disadvantages: paid parking.
Eco-hotel "Lesotel"
According to tourists' reviews, "Lesotel" in Souzga - perfect place for holidays in Altai. The hotel is located on the banks of the Katun River in a picturesque location, not far from Gorno-Altaisk. The territory is well-groomed, with wooden country houses. The restaurant offers Russian and European cuisine, a sauna, a spa center, a swimming pool, a cafe, Wi-Fi, and a variety of entertainment. Good for families with children. Cost from 3000 to 9000 rubles per day for a double room.
Yurt camping Gold Camel
An interesting option for relaxing in Altai in the summer is to stay in a yurt camp, which is located in the village of Kosh-Agach. Authentic heated yurts and houses are very picturesque. You can ride camels, rent a bicycle or book a jeep tour. There is a sauna, restaurant and shared kitchen. Accommodation from 3,000 rubles per day - the yurt is designed for five.
Gorny Altai is not a place for “mattress people”: people come here to play sports, walk a lot and enjoy nature. Those who are used to spending their holidays on the beach in the starfish position are unlikely to like this kind of vacation.
To save money, don't go for the elite ones tourist complexes- it is very expensive. Choose recreation centers inexpensive hotels, live in a tent. Prices in cafes and canteens are not high, but cooking yourself will be cheaper. Buy groceries in advance in a big city.
When going on vacation to the Altai Mountains in the summer of 2020, be sure to take repellent with you (pharmacies are not available everywhere).
Come relax in your own car. You need to travel around Altai, and not sit in one place!