Legendary 30. Easy hike in the Caucasus - thirty. day. Guzeripl and Armenian passes, Fisht shelter. Small Fisht Glacier

Route No. 30 (All-Union thirty)

From Khadzhokh to Solokh.
Instruction:

The history of this unique route began back in the 30s of the last century. Then
the Soviet government, puzzled by the problem of improving the nation's health, was looking for
low-budget options for solving it. Fish oil and tourist routes have become
unique priority national projects of that time, actively
were promoted and, to be fair, had a quite convincing effect.

Former 30th All-Union route - now the only high mountain route in Russia .
He still continues to act, attracting with his incredible magical
the beauty of thousands of tourists. It is a route where tourists pass everything
landscape zones of the country. Starting from the Kuban black earth steppes,
broad-leaved and coniferous forests, rising to subalpine and alpine meadows,
eternal snows and harsh glaciers. Descending to the south side of the Main Ridge,
they pass through the zone of Colchis-type forests and end up in the subtropics with palm trees,
bamboo and magnolias.

Participation in such a route is comparable to a full course of a sanatorium-resort
treatment. But building sanatoriums is expensive, and in a matter of years the country created
a whole network of tourist routes, shelters were built, schools of instructors arose.
"Thirty" was very popular destination, and during the season we passed along the route
about one hundred thousand people.

Linear route
Route length: 60 km.
Height min: 200 m, max: 2,087 m.
Pos. Hadjokh - Lago-Naki plateau — shelter "Fisht" — lane Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul"
— village Solokhaul

The route passes through the territory of the Fisht-Oshten massif and further, in the southern
macroslope of the Caucasus Range, stretches along the drainage basin of the Shakhe River to
Solokh-Aul village.
In terms of walking, the route does not present any particular difficulties, although there are a number of
steep ascents and descents. Instruction on the rules of being on site is required.
the territory of the reserve and the technique of passing through potentially dangerous areas
trails (steep climbs, steep descents, windy areas, avalanche
trays, snow fields, etc.).

Recreational amenities mean the presence or absence of trails,
fire pits, houses, booths and other small architectural forms, etc. Usually
The level of improvement is assessed on a 4-point scale:
1 point- landscaping has not been carried out at all.
2 points- existing trails and roads, parking areas and stops are not equipped
at all.
3 points- clearings have been cleared, the roadbed has been leveled, the trails are in good condition
condition, there are individual pieces of “forest furniture”.
4 points- the site is fully prepared to receive tourists (paths have been cleared, there is
drinking water, fuel, horse feed, houses with bunks and stove, prepared
fire pits, rain shelters, etc.)
According to this scale, the improvement of the route as a whole corresponds 3.5 points .

The best vacation is an unplanned vacation

The weather in these places is often changeable. In the summer it often happens that it’s scorching until lunchtime
the sun, and then a wall of rain, and by evening it’s clear again. And it may happen again
every day in a row for a week. Or vice versa - the drought is unbearable. Summer
on a clear day in the mountains along the route it can reach +25-30 degrees, and
at night the temperature drops to 0.. +5.

Get to the village Kamennomostsky (Khadzhokh) from the nearest city of Maykop (40 km.)
maybe two in simple ways: by train and by commuter bus giving for
ticket is about 40-50 rubles. Buses run on average every 2 hours,
electric trains: one in the morning (arrival in the village at 9 o’clock), the other in the evening (at 7
evenings). The trip lasts approximately 1.5 hours. Both types of public transport
arrive in the center of Hadjokh, where market Square and the market too
several minimarkets. Here you can buy everything you need for your trip.
low category of complexity.

Central square in Hadjokh

railway station

If your plans include exploring the surrounding area, then places to stay overnight are not difficult to find
in the private sector. To do this, just ask the relevant taxi drivers on the square
or read the advertisements on the walls and pillars here. Also on site
village there are several more or less large tourist centers, from which you can
distinguish the Gornaya t/b network by size and service. Pre-study
interesting objects for local excursions can be found on the Wikimapia website and in the HAJOH-CITY group on the Vkontakte website.

Belaya River

White - view from the observation deck

Mountain with rock "Tank hatch"

Cave "Through"

Rufabgo waterfalls

You need to go on a hike at least a little after preparing your body for walks around the surrounding area.
paths. If an untrained person can easily climb uphill, then
the descents at the end of the route will turn into hard labor for him! Train the weak
places the muscles of the legs, shoulders and back can be squatting with a prepared backpack, so
checking the equipment itself. If it seems to you that any part of the backpack
or your shoes may rub, it is better to fix the problem immediately.

Clothing should be selected based on the time of the route. For a sunny summer day
the ideal option would be: a Panama hat, a light shirt with long sleeves, trousers made of
water-repellent material, and don't forget a raincoat or raincoat. Long sleeves will be
reliably protect exposed areas of the hands from the scorching mountain sun and from dangerous
plants hogweed,after touching which, after some time
a chemical burn to the skin occurs. Strong sunburn you can get it literally
after a few tens of minutes of exposure to the sun on unprotected areas of the skin.

Everyone needs to have warm things with them - a sweater, warm socks, a hat +
spare socks, pants and sleeping bag. Also take care of the flashlight,
batteries and a first aid kit, which should contain a lot of plaster for calluses.
A primus stove can be very useful.

Hogweed

Low clouds over the plateau

Clear

More details about attractions near Hadzhokh and route maps can be found
find out in the HAJOKH-CITY group - ( open group). Here you can also set
Question for admins.

The high mountain tourist shelter "Fisht" is located at the source of the Belaya River between
mountains Fisht and Oshten. Consists of 2 one-and-a-half-story houses with sleeping places,
equipped fire pit with pots and kettles with boiling water, toilet.
The cost of spending the night in the house is about 50 rubles per person. Spreads out in front of houses
flat meadow with space for tents. The shelter sells alcohol and other products.
Here perfect place to restore strength.

The next part of the route will be a little more difficult. Check if you fit
within the time frame for passing the checkpoint, otherwise you may be fined at the exit from the reserve.

Immediately after leaving the shelter you pass a memorial stone and a trail
will rise all the time with short breaks. The route goes around
eastern spurs of Mount Fisht. A few more kilometers and you are at one of the most beautiful
passes of the country. It is called the Belorechensky pass. It also happened
battles with the Nazi invaders. There is a monument and memorial stone with
potholes caused by shells. At this pass the weak begins to work
cellular communication (only one Megaphone for now), but you can talk. Then the signal disappears.

At the Belorechensky pass

The path goes through a hilly meadow. Armenians usually graze horses and cows on it.
After a while you will see the housing of the shepherds who live here with their
families from time immemorial. They have a separate house for the night with a stove and
firewood. I would like to note that it is prohibited to burn fires anywhere in the reserve. Armenians
You can buy healthy fresh milk.

Have you ever had to walk down a steep trail that stretches for 5 kilometers?
The slope called "Merry Descent" will give your legs such a test
endurance, and if it has not yet dried out after the rains, then generally hold on... Other
since it seems that it will last forever, until you go out into the clearing “Cold
spring". After replenishing your water supplies and taking a breath at the table, you look at the map and
You note that you have only completed half of the descent. Until the end of the descent the trail runs along
beech-chestnut forest with occasional ancient trees and grazing
semi-wild pigs.

On your way you will meet foresters' houses, apiaries and vegetable gardens, until you reach
You will come out to the Shakhe River with a small masonry bridge. Further after a kilometer of route
along this river you come to the Babuk-aul shelter.

After 1.5-2 km. from the shelter the road will be blocked by a barrier with a checkpoint
point - exit from the reserve. You didn't throw away the tickets, did you?

Further, the Shakhe River makes a smooth bend to the south. The dirt road runs
on the left side of the river, and on the left there are flagstone rocks with numerous
streams with crystal water. It’s always damp here and sometimes you can’t get around the puddles.Next
a major obstacle will be the Bzych River, which flows into Shah,

This village is located on the left bank of the Shakhe River, 33 km from the Black Bank
seas. After entering Solokh, to get to the bus stop you need
walk along the dirt road without turning anywhere and reach the place where in front of the steep
turn the corner and the asphalt begins.
Then follow the asphalt road along the stream to the main road and turn off
turn left. A little more and you will be greeted by a bus stop with a food stall.
Buses going to Dagomys do not run often.

At the stop in Solokha.

Have a nice holiday...

The famous “Thirty” - the legendary route 30 through the mountains to the sea
The route was restored in 2001.

Spending the night at a camp site and in permanent shelters, traveling with a light backpack, cooking by a cook.
Certified instructors work with the group. Joining a group from one person.

Route 30 passes nearby famous mountain. Fisht is one of the most grandiose and significant natural monuments in Russia, the closest to Moscow high mountains. Tourists travel lightly through all the landscape and climatic zones of the country from the foothills to the subtropics, spending the night in shelters.

Arrivals in 2019:

June: 10.06 – 16.06; 17.06 – 23.06; 24.06 — 30.06
July: 01.07 – 07.07; 08.07 – 14.07; 15.07 – 21.07; 22.07 — 28.07; 29.07 — 04.08
August: 05.08 – 11.08; 12.08 – 18.08; 19.08 — 25.08; 26.08 — 01.09
September: 02.09 — 08.09; 09.09 — 15.09

On arrival days there is a transfer from the Krasnodar railway station at 06:30, from the airport at 07:00, the cost is 500 rubles per person.

1 day. Check-in at a camp site or hotel in the village of Kamennomostsky, accommodation in rooms with amenities on site, meeting with an instructor. Walk to the Through Cave. Lunch at the camp site. Excursion to an unequipped part of the canyon. The canyon displays amazing, unique, talented works of stone art created by nature. Getting to know the area. After dinner, an evening of dating, gatherings around the fire.

Day 2. Hiking to the Rufabgo gorge (the main natural monument of this area). On the route you will explore five picturesque spots, explore the grotto - the site of a primitive man and the surrounding rocks covered with lush vegetation. Lunch in the gorge near a tourist fire. Return to the camp site via observation decks. In the evening, songs with a guitar on the fire pit.

Day 3. A training hike in. The gorge is located away from popular tourist trails, but also has picturesque waterfalls, beautiful grottoes, and caves. All around are chestnut and beech forests. These are the sites of Neanderthal settlements, which are 120 - 130 thousand years old. A huge accumulation of burial mounds from the Zikh, Kasozh, Meotosarmatian and Scythian periods keep the secret of the peoples who existed here. The path runs along a clean rocky stream bed polished with water, lunch in the gorge. In the evening we hand over things not needed on the main hike to be sent to Dagomys. Getting ready for the main hike.

Day 4 Bus crossing Hadjokh - . Hiking to the Fisht shelter. On this day you will pass the ridge, four easy passes, and visit the subalpine and alpine zones. Lunch in the alpine near the karst lake. In the first half of summer, part of the route passes through snowfields. This is the most interesting and eventful day of the route. In the evening, flag raising and gatherings around the fire.

Day 5 Shelter "Fisht" - radial access to the Small Glacier. On this day you will visit the classic nival zone (a zone of bare rocks, eternal ice and snow). At your feet will be mountain gorges. Lunch at the shelter. For those who want to climb the huge boulder Fishtenok. Bonfire in the evening.

Day 6 Shelter "Fisht" - lane. Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul". On this day, two easy passes await you (at which telephone communications) and a long, “Jolly” descent into the subtropical zone through beech forests of the Colchis type. In the evening, presentation of badges and Russian tourist certificates.

Day 7 Shelter "Babuk-aul" - the village of Solokh-aul - Dagomys. We will spend this day in the humid subtropics, walk through a boxwood grove, see lush and lush vegetation, several waterfalls, and many rare and beautiful rock forms. Lunch at the Bzych River. Bus transfer to the village. Dagomys, after 17.00 arrival in Dagomys. In Dagomys, receiving personal belongings handed over in Khadzhokh.

Tour cost for one participant: 17,900 rubles.

The cost of the program includes: accommodation at the camp site and tourist shelters, 3 meals a day, cook services at the camp site and shelters, instructor services, inside shuttle transport, transportation of (resort) things from Khadzhokh to Dagomys, delivery of almost all food and gas to shelters, rental of group equipment, entrance fees (except entertainment center Khadzhokh Gorge), group first aid kit, fee for staying in the reserve.

The program price does not include: travel, equipment rental.

Required personal equipment: backpack (50 - 70 liters), personal sleeping bag and mat, rain cape, hiking shoes - sneakers or hiking boots, replacement shoes, shower slippers, warm tracksuit and sweater, nylon wind suit, long-sleeved shirt, hat with wide brim, small flashlight, plastic water bottle, personal utensils, seat.

THERE: arrival at the railway station or Krasnodar airport, at 6:30 and 7:00, respectively, transfer (additional fee) to the camp site. Those who order a transfer will be met at the airport and at the railway with a sign “Hadzhokh”, at the main entrance to the station from the platform and at the airport in the passenger arrivals hall. For those who arrive on their own: check-in during the first day at the Novaya camp site: village. Kamennomostsky (Hadzhokh), st. Komsomolskaya 7. (next to the gorge) 15 minutes before arriving in Kamennomostsky (Khadzhokh), tourists need to call the greeter and he will meet tourists at the bus station on the White Niva.

BACK: after 17.00, arrival in Dagomys, receipt of personal belongings deposited in Khadzhokh, departure by Adler train (plane) home.

More information on how to get to the meeting point:

On arrival days there is a transfer from the Krasnodar railway station at 06.30, from the airport at 07.00 - 500 rubles/person

By train to Krasnodar, then transfer at 06.30 (500 rubles/person) or bus Krasnodar - village. Pobeda to the village. Kamennomostsky (Khadzhokh) departure at 06.50 and 16.24, meeting the bus in Khadzhokh. Bus Krasnodar - Maykop 1 time per hour. In Maykop the stop is a bus station near the market, then by bus to the village. Kamennomostsky stop in Kamennomostsky - station. Hadjokh, meet the bus in Hadjokh. Buses depart from the station square in Krasnodar. Private transfer 3000 rub/car.

Hi all! While new trips are just being prepared, I decided to remember the past and write about hiking through the Caucasus through the mountains to the sea. And it was back in 2008, when the creative association ProYOU went to visit relatives in Adygea with the idea of making a short trip with access to the sea.

After a short stay with relatives (to whom we will return more than once ;-)), a trip to Maykop, and hikes along the surrounding waterfalls, we found a local guide, Slava. He agreed to take us through the mountains for a small fee. And he even organized a minibus directly to the house! We probably could have walked on our own, but the new location and the presence of a reserve, as well as the prospect of resolving issues with environmental authorities ourselves, prompted us to take a guide.

Legendary All-Union a tourist route No. 30 or simply “thirty” starts from the Kavkazsky checkpoint Biosphere Reserve, passes along the Lago-Naki plateau, through the passes of the Caucasian ridge, and ends in Dagomys, already on the Black Sea coast.

What is so interesting about the “thirty” route? It covers several climatic zones at once - alpine meadows, Mountain peaks With eternal snows, fir forests and coastal subtropics. There is also a nature reserve here, and this has helped preserve the unique nature, rare and unique animals, birds, and plants. It is quite possible to encounter bears here (in rare cases, of course) - we saw small and large tracks.

The route runs near the Oshten and Fisht mountains, from which many rivers in the region originate. Stunning scenery is guaranteed Caucasus Mountains, stormy mountain rivers, the smell of herbs, a mountain bathhouse and much more!

The route through the mountains to the sea looks like this: checkpoint of the reserve - Instructor's gap - Armenian pass - Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Cherkessky pass - Babuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul shelter.

Transfer to the Fisht shelter

The minibus took us to the checkpoint, from where we walked along the Lago-Naki plateau. The spaces are incredible! The trail goes through alpine meadows, every now and then bumping into streams and lakes, and somewhere in the distance a herd of horses can be seen.

From the Lago-Naki plateau the trail goes to the slope of the Mount Oshten massif, the views become more and more “vertical”))

Amazing nature! The fields are simply bursting with greenery...

Caucasian mountain herbs

Our guide Slavik, a very cool dude, he has a special dialect, a mixture of Caucasian and Rostov)))

It’s hard to walk because you’re not used to it...

During the whole day we walked about 7 km, quite a bit, but the landscapes replace each other with kaleidoscopic speed! At the end of the day we crossed the Armenian Pass, the descent from which ended at the Fisht shelter. It is located at the foot of famous mountain on the Belaya River, one might say at its source. The pass offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains!

View from the Armenian Pass to the Fisht shelter and the Belaya River valley

The shelter is lively - there are many tents, people crowd around the kitchen, where you can order something to eat. There are some bearded men here...

Radial access to the Big Fisht Glacier

The glacier is located at an altitude of more than 2800 meters above sea level. Fisht is famous for having large quantities caves, grottoes, underground rivers. The most famous of them are the Soaring Bird Cave and the deepest cave in Russia, “White Star”. Also, Fisht is the westernmost peak of the Caucasus, which has glaciers.

We headed to all these beauties the next morning. At first, the trail slowly climbs up, then you begin to encounter very steep rocky ledges that you have to climb up. With each new ledge, more and more breathtaking views open up.

Down below you can see the Fisht shelter:

We go higher and higher to Mount Fisht, views opposite

We finally reached the glacier and walked up it a little more. People generally climb Fisht, the category of such ascent is 1B, but we didn’t intend to.

Above there are only rocks, ice and gray thunderclouds

The guide Slava took with him a funny spaniel dog. It was difficult for her to go up and it was so hot that as soon as she saw the snow, she plunged into it with pleasure and let’s ride on her back! Then I swam in the sources of the Belaya River;-) So I ran around, all wet and happy.

Shelter "Fisht" - shelter "Babuk-aul"

Our path lies further - through the mountains to the Black Sea. From the very early morning we got up and with the very first walk we crossed the Belorechensky pass, where fierce battles took place during the Great Patriotic War. This is reported by the memorial obelisk installed at the top of the pass. In general, this entire area has a rich military history, there are signs here and there, remains of trenches...

View from the Circassian Pass to the Armenian Pass. Fisht shelter in the valley

Here is another sketch map of the area of our trip:

After the Circassian Pass, the trail goes through a dense southern forest, where we stopped for lunch. Here you can already feel the subtropical climate and the proximity of the sea. Completely different plants and humidity. In general, nature is of course very different from the Altai, and especially Omsk, that I’m used to.

Here the bear passed with her cub

Then begins a long descent into the valley of the Shahe River, it is also called a fun descent. Imagine 7 kilometers just down the roots and earth)) Everything is fine, but towards the end the knees begin to behave strangely, it’s not often that such a load falls on them! Anyone who went down there will understand me :-)

Main Caucasus Range

Then you need to cross the hanging bridge over the Shakhe River, and the nearest shelter is just a stone's throw away!

The “Babuk-aul” shelter is comfortably located on big clearing among the southern warm forest. Unlike our previous place to stay, women are in charge of everything here. You know, the atmosphere is very different - calm and tranquility. Everything is neat, tables under a canopy, excellent shower, and a stream flows right behind the “dining room”))

Shelter "Babuk-aul"

The finish line - the road to the sea in the back of a truck

Yesterday there was a very long evening with wine and songs by the fire, so the morning was sleep-deprived)) But there was nothing to do, especially since right in the morning the other guys and I agreed to chip in on the associated Gas-66 towards the sea. And we had to leave right now; we didn’t even have time to have breakfast.

And yet, everything happens for a reason and not in vain! We would need the whole day. to walk along the Shakhe River to the village of Solokh-aul. And the road is not the most interesting - mud in the forest, no surrounding views.

I am amazed at the power of the Gaz-66 - the truck easily travels straight along the river, rolling over lying trees and wet stones. In the back, of course, it shakes mercilessly! But it’s interesting all the time: either a branch will hit your ear, or you’ll jump half a meter, and you also need to have time to talk to the guys from Chelyabinsk ;-)

In the village of Solokh-aul we rested for a couple of hours and waited for the bus to Dagomys. The road to Dagomys is very breathtaking with its views, sharp turns, she constantly goes down to the sea. It was not possible to photograph all this beauty, since we are not the only ones who want to quickly plunge into the refreshing sea - a bus full of people!

That's all, our route through the mountains to the sea has ended, the legendary route “thirty” through the Lago-Naki plateau, Mount Fisht, several passes and climatic zones. Then I saw the sea for the first time! It’s later, every year I go to these parts, but this was the first time, yes. It’s difficult to convey this feeling... the perfection of nature and the world around, a splendor that simply cannot be imagined...

I was also surprised by the locals who hardly bathe and say “what did I forget there?” I try to appreciate what I have every day, something that can be forgotten simply out of habit. But beauty is everywhere, you just have to look from the other side. And I encourage you to do this!

Very close to Dagomys there is beautiful place, where you can put up tents thirty meters from the sea, it is open and publicly accessible. At the same time, there are very few people there, just noise Railway at the top, but after a day you get used to it. The beach here is small pebbles and has a rather steep descent into the sea, and there is a shower on the adjacent beach of the sanatorium. All conditions for life! Strictly speaking, a tent may not be needed, it’s Krasnodar region and subtropics! I highly recommend you go to!

This is real hiking. We carry food, equipment and personal belongings ourselves in backpacks. We spend the night in tents and cook food over a fire or gas burner. The recommended backpack weight limit for men is 18 kg, for women 12 kg.

To take part in a hike in the Caucasus, you need. We will contact you, discuss all the details and tell you what to do next.

The cost of a trip to the Caucasus includes: accompaniment of a guide along the entire route, registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, 3 meals a day (be sure to study ours, it can be adjusted).

The price does not include: equipment rental, travel, fees for visiting museums, nature reserves, caves and other paid attractions along the way. In the amount of up to 3600 rubles per trip (except for rental).

The guide can change the route of the hike based on the weather, the condition of the group, the foresters prohibiting passage and other factors.

If the cost of the trip seems unaffordable, choose it for yourself.

If you don’t have your own travel equipment and there is nowhere to borrow it, then you can take it.

For those who have already walked with us, the trip will cost 8100 rubles. For children 8-14 years old the cost is 7400.

Group meeting at the Krasnodar railway station 1 until 11 am. We will be back in Dagomys by 15:00 on the 8th day of the hike. On day 9 you can leave in the morning. 30 minutes to Sochi, 1.5 hours to the airport in Adler by train.

Additional important information:

1 day. Khadzhokh - canyon of the Belaya River. Rufabgo Falls

Radial exit 8 km in both directions.

Usually groups gather in Krasnodar. It is there that trains from Moscow and Minsk and buses from Crimea arrive early in the morning, via the ferry crossing. Those who wish can independently, if it is more convenient, through Maykop get to the village of Kamennomostsky, where the rest of the group will arrive in the afternoon. That's what it is mountain resort Hadjokh, famous for its skilled stone-cutters and sheep breeders. It is also the starting point of our hike. After gathering the entire group, there is enough time to set up a camp and explore two local attractions. The amazing Khadzhokh Gorge is a narrow, 400-meter canyon through which, with enviable persistence, the stormy waters of the Belaya River have been making their way through the rocks for thousands of years. The second, calmer, but no less picturesque, attraction is the seven-stage cascade of waterfalls of the Rufabgo stream. Usually shallow, after rains it instantly turns into a stormy stream of water and everything that gets into it, for which it received the local name - the Evil Wizard. To see everything you will need a short, no more than 8 km, radial hike, light. The attractions are paid, 150 rubles each, but there is a free trail to the waterfalls.>

Day 2. Abadzesh Pass - Lagonaki Plateau

Start height 1780 m, parking height 2050 m, elevation gain 270 m, mileage 9 km.

After morning exercise and breakfast, there will be a motor rally again, but this time for real mountain roads with corresponding landscapes and emotions. Transfer to the Abadzesh Pass. Finally the full hike begins. But we won’t tear it up, today we are acclimatizing. A smooth 9 km climb with only 270m of elevation gain is just what you need. The altitude is more than 2000 m, we are already among alpine meadows with characteristic vegetation and karst formations, in some of them there is eternal snow at depth. Along the Lagonaki plateau we will go to the stream with interesting name Chopped at the foot of Mount Oshten. After setting up the camp, those who wish have the opportunity to swim in the not very cold waterfalls of the stream and admire the mountain landscape. IN good weather The Krasnaya Polyana mountains, the site of the future Winter Olympic Games 2014, are clearly visible. Those who weren’t there can climb the nearest hill and inspect tomorrow’s path, or spend their excess energy usefully and go into the forest for firewood. A fire is always nice.

Day 3. Mount Oshten (2804 m)

Radial exit, elevation gain 754 m, 13.5 km in both directions.

In the morning there will be accelerated procedures, breakfast and a not difficult, but fast radial climb to one of the three neighboring three-thousanders, Mount Oshten (2804m). Fast, because after lunch the clouds descend on the mountains, visibility decreases and the possibility of arriving and not seeing anything increases. We will go lightly, without backpacks, but we definitely need to take raincoats and warm clothes. The weather can change almost instantly. A solid height meets with bare rocks of the slopes and eternal snow of the peaks. The solemn grandeur and silence leave indelible impressions for a lifetime.

Day 4 Guzeripl and Armenian passes, Fisht shelter. Small Fisht Glacier.

The parking height is 1590 m, the drop in height is 470 m, the mileage is 10 km. Radial exit: elevation gain 410 m, distance 8 km in both directions.

Today we will finally leave the parking lot on the Rublenny stream. A gradual descent leads to the Guzeripl and then the Armenian passes. The trail traverses the slopes of the Lagonaki plateau, the vegetation here is very lush - often we will walk along a narrow corridor with two-meter walls of grass. The ten-kilometer trek ends at the Fisht shelter, an equipped parking lot on the banks of a large river. There's even a shower and a shop! True, the prices are astronomical. More precisely, by helicopter: there is no road here, all food is delivered to the store by helicopter, and the garbage is also taken away on it. Before the end of the day, those who wish still have time to run to the 8-kilometer radial to inspect the small glacier on Mount Fisht.

Day 5 Fisht Oshten pass. Lake Psenodakh, Maikop Pass.

Parking height 1560 m, elevation gain 630 m, drop 660 m, mileage 12.5 km.

Acclimatization has been completed and you can increase the load. There is a long and difficult climb ahead to the Fisht-Oshten pass (2220m). Then we will go down to the picturesque mountain lake Psenodakh. An unusually shallow, crescent-shaped lake with a depression at one end. You can have great shopping here! The lake is surrounded by legendary three-thousander brothers: Fisht, Oshten and Pshekho-Su. From here you can also enjoy a unique view of the Great Fisht Glacier. Walking around Fisht in a circle, let’s enjoy it one last time alpine meadows, and through the Maikop Pass we will go down to the parking lot.

Day 6 Vodopadny stream, waterfall 200 m. Moonlight Glade.

Parking height 1873 m, elevation gain 330 m, elevation loss 350 m, elevation gain 430 m, mileage 11 km.

Today we will continue to traverse the slopes of Fisht, the road will constantly go up and down. The Vodopadisty stream, encountered along the way, originates from the Fisht glaciers and falls as a powerful waterfall from a 200-meter height. The spectacle is very grandiose! But you can’t always see it. The main waterfall fills only after a good rainfall or in the spring. But on the other hand, a small waterfall always “works”, flowing straight out of a rock, the same 200-meter height. Further the path passes close to V.V.’s dacha. Putin at Moonlight Glade. Now all views here are ruined not only by the buildings themselves, but also by the ski lifts under construction. Excavators, bulldozers, pipes, cables, noise, stench... Our mood is finally spoiled by a security guard running towards us with a threatening look and demands to immediately erase everything that was photographed... Of course, such a disgrace in the State Caucasian Nature Reserve should not be in everyone's sight. It seems to me that the path past the dacha will soon be completely closed... as usual, under the guise of concern for the peace of wild animals and plants. On this day there will be a last high overnight stay, right at the Circassian Pass.

Day 7 Descent to Solokh aul.

We begin to go down to the sea. The route passes through a shady beech forest and there will be streams.

Day 8 Transfer to Dagomys, sea…

We take a chartered minibus to Dagomys. The camp is set up in convenient location on a wild beach.

Day 9 Home…

The most leisurely morning of the entire trip is accompanied by a gentle sea and a slight sadness of parting. Those who wish to extend the bliss can stay here for a few more days. You can get to Sochi by train in half an hour, to Krasnodar in 4 hours.

Goodbye, Caucasus.