Famous explorer of the subsoil of the Khibiny Mountains 7 letters. Scientific researchers of Khibiny. Expeditions and travelers

Many good and truthful books are dedicated to Fersman, a scientist and citizen, teacher and mentor of creative youth; Streets in Moscow and Apatity are named after him; oil-bearing structure in the Caspian Sea; rare minerals fersmanite and fersmith, first discovered in the Khibiny Mountains. The titles of Fersman Prize laureates are awarded to scientists who have made a significant contribution to the development of mineralogy and geochemistry.

In the memoirs of contemporaries who were lucky enough to work and communicate with Fersman, we see a “bright, noble image of a wonderful man with a beautiful soul, a poet of science and a singer of stone, a temperamental researcher and generator of ideas, the author of “Entertaining Mineralogy,” who was the pride of our science, a patriotic scientist, the successor of Mendeleev's determination, who introduced new ideas into chemical technology, a remarkable contribution to crystallography, a fiery beacon of knowledge, a great mineralogist, a tireless traveler and geographer, the discoverer of the Khibiny Mountains, an inspired propagandist of science, a wise mentor of subsoil researchers, our Russian gem, a brilliant guide who persistently called for collecting and accumulate facts, study, protect and use nature.ʺ

What has just been said about the bright personality of A.E. Fersman’s words are not my words: they are only a small part of what was borrowed from the compilers of the book of memoirs “Life and Work,” released on the 80th anniversary of his birth.

Ten years later, “Problems of Mineral Raw Materials” was published, also on the occasion of Fersman’s anniversary. In this collection, the memoir genre is already noticeably inferior to the generalizing articles of prominent scientists about the post-Fersman stage of the development of geology. And finally, the author of these lines together with the first president of the Russian Academy of Natural Sciences D.A. Mineev for the 100th anniversary of A.E. Fersman is dedicated to the monograph “New Khibiny Apatite Deposits”, which tells about the continuation of the discoveries and explorations he began in the Khibiny Mountains.

The most memorable pages of his biography are associated with the Khibiny: ʺ Among all the experiences of the past, among the various pictures of nature and human economic activity, the most vivid in my life were the impressions from the Khibiny of an entire scientific epic, which for almost twenty years filled all my thoughts, owned my entire being, tempered my will, awakened new scientific thought, desires, hope. Only through perseverance and stubbornness, only through enormous work on the Khibiny mountains could we achieve results in this land of wonders, a country that, like in a fairy tale, revealed its riches to us.

INTRODUCTION...

The first one and a half hour route A.E. Fersman to the outlying hill of Mannepahk in 1920 became the initial milestone of systematic exploration of the subsoil of the Kola Peninsula, which attracted his close attention until the end of his life. Then there were hundreds of other difficult routes to the Khibiny, Monchetundra, Kovdor, Afrikanda, and other ore points, routes recorded in diaries, “tied,” as geologists say, to place and time, but that first and random one remained imprinted only in Fersman’s memory.

However, is it random?

In December 1919, in hungry and cold Petrograd, the leaders of the Russian Academy of Sciences A.P. Karpinsky and A.E. Fersman, “concerned about the best use of all forces applied to the study of the North,” developed a strategy for studying the natural resources of the northern expanses of Russia. They addressed an open letter to all scientists who had previously worked in the vast territory from Spitsbergen to Chukotka to assist in this enterprise with their participation or advice.

Authoritative experts on the Russian North, in total more than 70 prominent scientists, gathered for a meeting in the ancient mansion of the Russian Geographical Society on Demidovsky Lane. Under the chairmanship of 36-year-old A.E. Fersman from May 16 to May 24, 1920, ten hours a day, 77 reports were heard on geology and ancient mining, animal and fisheries, on nature and domestic experience in the development of the North, on population and handicrafts...

A few days after this, a resolution of the Council of Labor and Defense was issued on the completion and operation of the Murmansk railway. Soon, a government commission of specialists from the Academy of Sciences (A.P. Karpinsky, A.E. Fersman), the Geological Committee (A.P. Gerasimov) and the Geographical Society (Yu.M. Shokalsky) left Petrograd for Murman by a special train for personal survey to assess the nearest ways of developing the region.

On the fourth day, on the night of June 9, the train arrived at Imandra station. Taking advantage of the forced stop to refuel the locomotive with firewood, Fersman made the first ascent of Mount Mannepahk. The amazing world of stone opened to the eyes of Fersman, an unrivaled mineralogist: ʺIn the gray monotonous nature, among the rocks with gray lichens and mosses, there is a whole range of rare minerals: blood-red or cherry eudialytes, sparkling sparkles of astrophyllite like gold, bright green aegirines, purple fluorspars, golden sphenes..., and you can’t count that motley pictures of the colors that nature has endowed this gray corner of the earth with.

Upon returning to Petrograd, Fersman began preparing an expedition to the Khibiny Mountains.

Igor Vladimirovich Davidenko - geologist, Doctor of Science - in his poem dedicated to Fersman, describes his impressions of the first route to the Khibiny:

On that route, he encountered strange stones that he could not read about in the most complete reference books. The young academician throws up his hands in surprise - I’ve never met anyone like him. And science doesn’t know such people! We'll be back here. We'll come with a bunch of scientists! Let the Khibiny mountains wait for us a little! This was reconnaissance before the attack. This was in the twentieth year. You can, of course, believe in chance, in blind luck. But luck favors the brave, those who are ready to find! Fersman was one of those. And from the past, begun, that distant route has outlined the paths in our time.

"STRANGE EXPEDITION TO THE TUNDRA"

Upon returning to Petrograd, Fersman turned to the Council of the National Economy with a request for assistance in organizing an expedition to the unexplored Khibiny Mountains. Here is the text of this statement, printed on St. Petersburg University letterhead:

“This is to certify that, under the leadership of Professor of Mineralogy, Academician A.E. Fersman, an expedition is being organized to Murman in the Khibiny Mountains for geological and mineralogical work in granite massifs for the purpose of extracting minerals, minerals for the needs of the university, the Academy of Sciences and for ongoing work at the university. Due to the difficult work in the tundra and the critical condition of the travelers’ shoes, the dean of the Faculty of Physics and Mathematics asks for 12 pairs of boots and galoshes for the expedition of 20 students, specialists in geology and mineralogy, for a month.”

Dean A.E. Fersman

Next came a list of “those in need of shoes”; among them the names of E.M. Bonstedt, E.E. Kostyleva, N.N. Gutkova, other active participants in the annual Fersman expeditions to the Khibiny Mountains, a total of 11 names. The statement wandered around the offices of the Moscow Council of National Economy for a long time until it returned to the Petrograd Complaints Bureau, topped with a mocking resolution: “A strange expedition to the tundra of 11 women and 1 man.” And yet the expedition took place.

Over two weeks of cold September, a group of enthusiasts explored the peaks of the Uts-Khibiny (Fersman used the toponymy of Wilhelm Ramsay, who called the western ridges the Small (Uts) Khibiny, and the eastern ridges the Greater (Shur) Khibiny), collected a rich collection of minerals weighing 25 pounds (this was a women's team !), in between difficult routes, we gave popular science lectures to the small population of the Imandra and Khibiny railway stations, who were not spoiled by communication with representatives of the capital’s science.

...Our old “heater” - a freight car - was either coupled or unhooked from overloaded trains, which were hardly pulled by worn-out locomotives. For ten days we dragged ourselves from Petrograd to Khibiny and from here we went to the mountains...

Beginning of August 1921. Photo taken by A.E. Fersman. Near the "heatbox" food is cooked in a cauldron. Pom. the head of the Khibiny expedition Boris Mikhailovich Kupletsky, Ekaterina Evftikhievna Kostyleva and Elsa Maksimovna Bonstedt. (From Kamenev’s archive.)

Funds for the expedition were pooled together, with its leader contributing a large share. ʺThe complete lack of shoes and insufficient provisions did not allow extending excursions and undertaking new routesʺ, note in Fersman's diary. This means that the official from the Complaints Bureau limited himself to a bold mockery, but did not give out the shoes. And although the expedition was not financially secure, was not equipped with equipment, Fersman prepared for it, read travel notes predecessors of Russian geographers of the last century: A.F. Middendorf, N.V. Kudryavtsev, Finnish geologists Wilhelm Ramsay, Alfred Chilman, French mineralogist Charles Rabo. By right of a pioneer, he named the mountain peaks after them. True, these names did not take root: there were no geographical maps then, and Fersman could not have known that these mountains had original Lapland names: Yumyechorr, Chasnachorr, Putelichorr, Iidichvumchorr.

Reading now these records, which have become a bibliographic rarity, you discover another feature of Fersman the scientist: being a pioneer and knowing that others would follow in his footsteps, he did not limit himself to presenting geological observations, describing pegmatite veins and the minerals that compose them. Addressing his tourist readers, he explains to them where it is better to cross a mountain river, which slope is easier to reach the top, and how to choose a convenient place to spend the night:

“In our footsteps, along the paths of our first expeditions, others will follow, and let the Khibiny massif, proudly standing out above the forests, lakes and swamps of the Kola Peninsula, become a center of tourism, a school of science and life.”

During scientific expeditions, the geographical and geological maps compiled at the end of the last century by V. Ramsay, V. Gakman and A. Petrelius were refined; observations were made of landforms, climatic conditions, Aboriginal customs were studied.

MAP OF THE KHIBINY MOUNTAINS BY V. RAMZAY. 1887-1892.

The atmosphere of camaraderie and brotherhood, generally characteristic of scientific teams headed by A.E., helped the excursionists, as they called themselves, to overcome the difficulties and hardships of nomadic life. Fersman. Between the older “fersmanoids” and the younger “fersmanites” there were familiar relationships, painted in the soft tones of friendship, kindness, mutual assistance and care for each other. Every Khibiny citizen, regardless of which clan he belonged to, had a funny nickname, which, however, did not replace the patronymic name in business relations. For his rapid mobility, Fersman himself was called “Ball Lightning” or, according to the usual abbreviations of that time, “Glavnachem”, that is, “Chief Chief”.

KHIBINY DAYS AND “FRIDAYS”

These friendly ties did not break during the winter office period, “when our entire Khibiny youth team, having barely returned from one expedition, was already beginning to prepare for the next,” Fersman recalled. “Khibiny Fridays” were traditional, where scientific and personal impressions of the past season were discussed, plans for the coming summer were outlined, amateur poets Terentyev, Gladtsyn, Kupletsky read their works intended for “internal use”.

In a lost valley, by a forgotten stream

Under the cover of the peak there is a trace of Lapp habitation.

The path winds imperceptibly between the hummocks of the swamps.

An inconspicuous trail of deer leads to the surface of the lake...

Sometimes “Fridays” were replaced by cultural trips to the theater (on March 27, 1923, Fersman, Kessler, Elsa (E.K. Bonstedt), V.A. (Unkovskaya) and others were at the Mariinsky Theater; we watched Talanin’s “Minion” with the participation of Wilhelm Meyer, Balashov, Robert Korzhevsky , Molchanov, entry in the diary of B.M. Kupletsky).

On one of these “Fridays,” a famous scientist and philologist was invited from Czechoslovakia, Jiri Horak, who arrived in Petrograd to accompany a special cargo - six wagons of food and clothing collected by the Prague Committee for Assistance to Russian Scientists in Need.

At that time of famine, the Central Commission for the Improvement of the Living Life of Scientists (TseKUBU), led by M. Gorky, operated; its Petrograd branch (PetroKUBU) was skillfully headed by A.E. Fersman. His hectic duties included the distribution of meager food rations and personal items donated by civilized Europe among poor scientists. This scrupulous mission of A.E. Fersman performed honestly, disinterestedly, without complaints even from the disadvantaged.

In the article “Petrograd Impressions,” I. Gorak writes that he was pleasantly surprised by the activity of Petrograd scientific life, the high level of research, and the large program of expeditions, especially to the North. During our stay in Petrograd from November 3 to 20, our Russian friends showed us exceptional attention and truly brotherly affection. On the evening of November 13, we visited the Geographical Institute, headed by A.E. Fersman. This outstanding mineralogist, known to our specialists (he met in Prague with Prof. Slavik), this summer, this year, with several students, went far to the North, to the Kola Peninsula, to explore the Khibiny massif, a mighty mountain range in a harsh desert region. We were invited to a “club night” dedicated to travel reports. Many students and professors gathered in the spacious hall. One of the expedition members (it was I.N. Gladtsyn), in a brief but very informative review, outlined a theory explaining the change in the color of natural waters, supplementing well-known views with personal observations; Fersman’s student, also a participant in the expedition (E.M. Bonstedt) made a scientific description of new minerals, which attracted the attention of listeners; the third speaking poet (A.V. Terentyev) read poems written on the slopes of the Arctic mountains, around friendly camp fires. The poems attracted me with the fresh spontaneity of my observations and the completeness of my form.

In conclusion, the leader of the expedition spoke. He gave an overview of the entire trip and showed photographs. A scientist with a broad outlook, a witty polemicist, he captivatingly described a forgotten region, on which, even on clear days, lies the shadow of eternal Arctic silence. At the same time, Fersman has an innate and therefore irresistible humor. How the small events of the expedition, the progress of research work and the cheerful life in the tents came to life in his story!

What a teacher! What a wonderful relationship he has with his students! How the faces of the students brightened when the teacher talked about the difficulties of the journey! And they were significant, because food and all the equipment had to be carried on oneself, right up to the most remote camp, and on the way back the stone collections were even more heavy. Students and the professor competed to achieve a record of endurance: who would complete the most routes, carry loads, climb to the highest peak and, I must say, the academician himself achieved the highest results.

How cozy it was in the hall! It seemed that the elders and the younger ones forgot about the difficulties at these moments. The holy fire of scientific inspiration shone in their eyes, the breath of spring and youth filled the hall, which was truly a workshop of humanity. I said to myself: this is how a school is created in the noble, beautiful sense of the word, only from such loosened soil does a spreading tree of traditions grow, in the fresh shade of which talents blossom... Of course, the Geographical Institute founded by Fersman is still young and does not have the traditions that the highest are proud of schools in the West. However, in one thing he is ahead of many of them: his leader managed to unite talented youth around himself, whose selfless teacher, adviser and friend he wants and knows how to be. He put his organizational talent into the service of mercy, heading the Commission for Assistance to Needy Scientists. Always calm, smiling, full of faith in the future of the Russian people, whom he loves with deep, conscious love, Fersman works without rest, because he voluntarily took on responsibilities that would be more than enough for many.

Soon, Czech colleagues equipped Russian scientists with a scientific library, including 743 publications in various fields of knowledge.

THE PATH TO DISCOVERY

It would be untrue to say that the Fersman expeditions of the 1920s were initially aimed at the discovery of apatite deposits. They had only a scientific focus and were conducted with the aim of studying mineral diversity and replenishing the museum collections of the Academy and the university.

Soon, applications for mineral exhibits began to arrive from Germany and America. Among the discovered minerals there are many new, unknown to science: ramsaite, hackmanite, fersmanite and fersmith, kupletskite, labuntsovite, shcherbakovite, gerasimovskite, bornemanite, named after the pioneers of the study of Khibiny and Lovozero.

Over the years, experience in expeditionary research accumulated, the narrow scientific interests of the early period acquired a practical orientation, and the work itself became organized and disciplined. The anticipation of new discoveries inspired me and gave me fresh strength. And this day has come.

ʺThe night is unusually cold (about -5°C), and there is frost in the morning. We set out, quite tired, into the valley between two spurs of Kukisvumchorr. We turned sharply around the spur and entered a wide valley, bluntly ending in a rather steep, but not very high pass. Walking along the left green slope, at a distance of approximately one km, we crossed a tributary that descended steeply from the Kukisvumchorr slope. In the outflows of this tributary there are a large number of green blocks up to one pound weighing apatite rock, often of a layered nature. Due to lack of time and fatigue, we could not look for the main exits of the apatite veins, apparently very accessible., from Fersman's diary of August 30, 1921.

The discovery of accumulations of unrounded rock fragments serves for the geologist as a sure sign of its bedrock occurrence higher up the mountainside. The Kukisvumchorr deposit was discovered 5 years later by Alexander Nikolaevich Labuntsov.

As you know, the Khibiny Mountains are the largest mountain range, located on Kola Peninsula. The name “Khibiny” appeared not so long ago, because before that the mountain system was called the Sami word “Umptek”. It is believed that the geological age of this rock reaches about 350 million years. The exact origin of the Khibiny is still unknown, although according to the Russian dialect of the Arkhangelsk region and the Kola Peninsula, the prevailing term is “Khiben”, which means “plateau”.

The mountains are composed of igneous rocks or nepheline syenites. The Khibiny massif has plateau-like peaks, rather steep slopes, in some places there are glaciers and snowfields. Highest point mountain system became Mount Yudychvumchorr, whose height reaches 1200.5 m above sea level and which drops off quite steeply in the form of inaccessible sheer cliffs.

The Khibiny mountain range is shaped more like a horseshoe, somewhat open towards the east. The characteristic relief was high, flat plateaus, as well as a complex system of especially deep valleys. Most of the valleys end in the form of global glacial cirques, which contain snow throughout the year. The inherent plateaus are flat surfaces completely covered with bare rock deposits. Great amount minerals are located in the Khibiny Mountains, the vast majority of which were discovered at this site for the first time - which is why the Khibiny massif is also called the mineralogical natural museum. The minerals found here are of greatest importance. This place contains the world's largest deposits of apatite containing phosphorus, as well as titanium, sphene, molybdenum ores and many other rare elements, which have become a reliable base for the mining industry of the North.

Concerning flora Khibiny Mountains, it changes more and more with increasing altitude. The slopes and foothills of the mountains, reaching a height of 350-400 m, are occupied exclusively by coniferous forests, represented by spruce and pine forests, which can most often be seen with an admixture of birch species. A little higher there is a crooked birch forest, rising even more in height by 100 m. In an even more elevated zone there are zones of crooked forest - this is the tundra, almost completely covered with small shrubs - blueberries, lingonberries, crowberries, bearberries, as well as various types lichens. After the first frosts have passed, the leaves of all plants quickly acquire a rich, bright color, while creating an incredibly beautiful multi-colored carpet. As altitude increases along the slopes, vegetation cover becomes increasingly sparse and bare areas of rocky embankments can often be found. All the mountain peaks are almost completely without vegetation, and on the rocks and in some places there are scattered yellow, gray and green patterns of lichens that predominate in these places. The flora of the Khibiny Mountains is especially valuable, because a considerable number of representatives of local vegetation are listed in the Red Book. As for the local fauna, the terrestrial vertebrates of the mountain range are represented by 27 species of mammals, 2 species of reptiles, one species of amphibian and 123 different species of birds.

Today, the following mines operate on the territory of the Khibiny mountain range: Rasmvumchorr (Rasvumchorr plateau and Apatite Circus deposits), Kirov (Yukspor and Kukisvumchorr), Central (Rasvumchorr), as well as Eastern (Nyurkpakhk and Koashva). Mining is carried out both open-pit and underground. The number of open mountain ranges is increasingly decreasing, and after some time the development of deposits will be carried out exclusively by underground methods.

For quite a long period of time, the Khibiny Mountains have been one of the most favorite holiday destinations for tourists, because this is the first alpine region in the entire Arctic in which a proper system of routes was carried out, ranging from educational to the most difficult. Even the small height of the mountains can be deceptive, because the climate peculiarities inherent in the area often create extreme conditions for the ascent process.

: 67°44′05″ n. w. 33°43′34″ E. d. / 67.73472° s. w. 33.72611° east. d. / 67.73472; 33.72611(G) (I)

A countryRussia, Russia RegionMurmansk region

Education periodCarboniferous period

highest peakYudychvumchorr Highest point1200.6 m

At the foot are the cities of Apatity and Kirovsk. At the foot of Mount Vudyavrchorr - .

Climate

The Khibiny combines the features of regional and local mountain climate. The outer slopes of the mountains experience a significant softening influence of the climate of the surrounding plains, and the microclimate of the central part of the massif is much more severe. There is snow in the mountains from October to June.

Summer is short, in the mountains there are 60-80 days without frost. In the foothills, the period with an average daily temperature above 10 °C lasts about 70 days. Summer also sees maximum precipitation. The polar day lasts 50 days.

In the Khibiny, precipitation falls from 600-700 mm in the valleys, to 1600 mm of precipitation on the mountain plateaus. Throughout the year, precipitation is distributed almost evenly, slightly more in summer, a little less in winter. In summer, about 20% of days are without precipitation with an average precipitation of 2 mm/day, in winter only 10% with an average precipitation of 1.5 mm/day.

Flora and fauna

Flora Khibiny is very valuable. A large number of species included in the “red books” of various ranks grow on the territory of the massif.

Rock complexes that make up the Khibiny massif:

complex of khibinites and endocontact nepheline syenites,
complex of trachytoid khibinites,
rischorrite complex,
complex of ijolite-urtites, malignites and lujavrites,
complex of medium-grained nepheline syenites,
foyait complex.

Within the Khibiny massif, mineral associations were found that are not typical for other alkaline rock massifs, including topaz and spinel. In the xenoliths of Mount Eveslogchorr there is a manifestation of corundum, used in the jewelry industry - blue sapphire.

Mining

The largest deposits of apatite-nepheline ores are located on the territory of the Khibiny massif.

The following mines are currently operating: Kirovsky (Kukisvumchorr and Yukspor deposits), Rasvumchorrsky (Apatite Circus and Rasvumchorr plateau deposits), Central (Rasvumchorr plateau), Vostochny (Koashva and Nyorkpakhk deposits) and the recently opened Oleniy Ruchey (Koashva deposit). Mining is carried out both underground and open pit. The number of open-pit mining operations is decreasing and soon the development of deposits will be carried out only by underground methods.

The main minerals mined in the Khibiny are: apatite, nepheline, sphene, aegirine, feldspar, titanomagnetite. Previously, lovchorrite was mined.

Study and mastery

Expeditions and travelers

A. F. Middendorf.
- V. Ramzai, A. Chilman, A. Petrelius and others.
N.V. Kudryavtsev.
M. M. Prishvin.

Chronology of development

Movement in defense of Khibiny

Passes

Currently, the Khibiny Mountains are popular among mountain and ski tourists, as well as climbers. To overcome them both in summer and winter, good physical preparation of the participants is required. However, most passes are non-category, or have 1-2 categories. All Khibiny passes can be divided into two types - saddles and gorges.

Passes	Height	Categorical	Approaches
Chorrgor South	850 m	n/a	Valley of the Chasnayok stream (right tributary of the Meridional stream) - Valley of the lower left tributary of the Petrelius stream - left tributary of the Kuniyok river
Chorrgor Northern	1015 m	summer 1A, winter 2A, increased avalanche danger	Upper Goltsovaya - Middle reaches of the Kuniyok River
Arsenyeva (Arsenina) Eastern	1030 m	in summer n/k, in winter 1A
Arsenyeva Western	1010 m	winter 1B, summer 1A	The upper reaches of the Meridionalny stream - the valley of the second from the bottom right tributary of the Malaya Belaya River
Cross	950 m	winter 2A, summer 1B	Petrelius Stream - Meridional Stream
Kukisvumchorr	479 m	n/a	River valley Kuniyok - River Valley Kukisjok
Vortkeywave	810 m	in winter 1A, in summer n/a	The upper reaches of the upper right tributary of the Tulyok River - the Lopar River Valley
Geographers	650 m	winter 1B, autumn 1A, summer 1A	Lake Maly Vudyavr. - The valley of the right tributary of the Bolshaya Belaya River.
Deceptive	563 m	n/a	Middle reaches of the Kaljok River - Upper reaches of the Obmannaya River
Yumjekorr South (Impulse)	780 m	in winter 1A, in summer n/a	The valley of the Nephelinovy stream (a tributary of the Imandra, flowing into it near the Nepheline Sands station) - The valley of the largest left tributary of the Meridional stream
Ramsay (Ramsay Gorge)	650 m	n/a	Valley of the Malaya Belaya River - Valley of the Poachyok River
Nameless	830 m	winter 2A, summer 1B	Valley of the Tulyok River - Valley of the upper left tributary of the Vudyavryok River
Gap	650 m	winter 2A, summer 1B	Valley of the left tributary of the Vuonnemyok River - Valley of the right tributary of the Tulyok River
Eagle Nest	1090 m	2 A	The upper reaches of the Petrelius stream (Petrelius circus) - Fersman stream (southern Fersman circus) - the right tributary of the Malaya Belaya
Partomchorrsky (Partomporsky) South	800 m	n/a	Lyavoyok River Valley - Upper left tributary of the Kaskasnyunyok River
Postman	590 m	n/a	Valley of the Medvezhiy Log stream (right source) - Valley of the Nephelinovy stream
South Rischorr	780 m	n/a	Risjok Stream Valley - Kaskasnynyok Stream Valley
Fersman	974 m	summer 1b	Fersman Stream - Eastern source of the Meridional Stream

Peaks

Highest peaks:

An interesting fact is that until a certain time, Mount Chasnachorr (1189 m) was considered the highest point of the Khibiny. Although even now on the Internet there are often resources in which Chasnachorr is listed as the highest point. No less interesting is this fact: according to various sources, the height of Mount Yudychvumchorr ranges from 1200 to 1206 meters.

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Literature

M. M. Prishvin “Khibiny Mountains”

Notes

An excerpt characterizing the Khibiny Mountains

By the way the regimental commander saluted the commander-in-chief, glaring at him with his eyes, stretching out and getting closer, how he leaned forward and followed the generals along the ranks, barely maintaining a trembling movement, how he jumped at every word and movement of the commander-in-chief, it was clear that he was fulfilling his duties subordinate with even greater pleasure than the duties of a superior. The regiment, thanks to the rigor and diligence of the regimental commander, was in excellent condition compared to others who came to Braunau at the same time. There were only 217 people who were retarded and sick. And everything was fine, except for the shoes.
Kutuzov walked through the ranks, occasionally stopping and speaking a few kind words to the officers whom he knew from the Turkish war, and sometimes to the soldiers. Looking at the shoes, he sadly shook his head several times and pointed them out to the Austrian general with such an expression that he didn’t seem to blame anyone for it, but he couldn’t help but see how bad it was. Each time the regimental commander ran ahead, afraid to miss the commander-in-chief's word regarding the regiment. Behind Kutuzov, at such a distance that any faintly spoken word could be heard, walked about 20 people in his retinue. The gentlemen of the retinue talked among themselves and sometimes laughed. The handsome adjutant walked closest to the commander-in-chief. It was Prince Bolkonsky. Next to him walked his comrade Nesvitsky, a tall staff officer, extremely fat, with a kind and smiling handsome face and moist eyes; Nesvitsky could hardly restrain himself from laughing, excited by the blackish hussar officer walking next to him. The hussar officer, without smiling, without changing the expression of his fixed eyes, looked with a serious face at the back of the regimental commander and imitated his every movement. Every time the regimental commander flinched and bent forward, in exactly the same way, in exactly the same way, the hussar officer flinched and bent forward. Nesvitsky laughed and pushed others to look at the funny man.
Kutuzov walked slowly and sluggishly past thousands of eyes that rolled out of their sockets, watching their boss. Having caught up with the 3rd company, he suddenly stopped. The retinue, not anticipating this stop, involuntarily moved towards him.
- Ah, Timokhin! - said the commander-in-chief, recognizing the captain with the red nose, who suffered for his blue overcoat.
It seemed that it was impossible to stretch out more than Timokhin stretched out, while the regimental commander reprimanded him. But at that moment the commander-in-chief addressed him, the captain stood up straight so that it seemed that if the commander-in-chief had looked at him for a little longer, the captain would not have been able to stand it; and therefore Kutuzov, apparently understanding his position and wishing, on the contrary, all the best for the captain, hastily turned away. A barely noticeable smile ran across Kutuzov’s plump, wound-disfigured face.
“Another Izmailovo comrade,” he said. - Brave officer! Are you happy with it? – Kutuzov asked the regimental commander.
And the regimental commander, reflected as in a mirror, invisible to himself, in a hussar officer, shuddered, came forward and answered:
– I am very pleased, Your Excellency.
“We are all not without weaknesses,” said Kutuzov, smiling and moving away from him. “He had a devotion to Bacchus.
The regimental commander was afraid that he was to blame for this, and did not answer anything. The officer at that moment noticed the captain’s face with a red nose and a tucked belly and imitated his face and pose so closely that Nesvitsky could not stop laughing.
Kutuzov turned around. It was clear that the officer could control his face as he wanted: the minute Kutuzov turned around, the officer managed to make a grimace, and after that take on the most serious, respectful and innocent expression.
The third company was the last, and Kutuzov thought about it, apparently remembering something. Prince Andrei stepped out from his retinue and said quietly in French:
– You ordered a reminder about Dolokhov, who was demoted, in this regiment.
-Where is Dolokhov? – asked Kutuzov.
Dolokhov, already dressed in a soldier’s gray overcoat, did not wait to be called. The slender figure of a blond soldier with clear blue eyes stepped out from the front. He approached the commander-in-chief and put him on guard.
- Claim? – Kutuzov asked, frowning slightly.
“This is Dolokhov,” said Prince Andrei.
- A! - said Kutuzov. “I hope this lesson will correct you, serve well.” The Lord is merciful. And I will not forget you if you deserve it.
Blue, clear eyes looked at the commander-in-chief as defiantly as at the regimental commander, as if with their expression they were tearing apart the veil of convention that so far separated the commander-in-chief from the soldier.
“I ask one thing, Your Excellency,” he said in his sonorous, firm, unhurried voice. “Please give me a chance to make amends for my guilt and prove my devotion to the Emperor and Russia.”
Kutuzov turned away. The same smile in his eyes flashed across his face as when he turned away from Captain Timokhin. He turned away and winced, as if he wanted to express that everything that Dolokhov told him, and everything that he could tell him, he had known for a long, long time, that all this had already bored him and that all this was not at all what he needed . He turned away and headed towards the stroller.
The regiment disbanded in companies and headed to assigned quarters not far from Braunau, where they hoped to put on shoes, dress and rest after difficult marches.
– You don’t lay claim to me, Prokhor Ignatyich? - said the regimental commander, driving around the 3rd company moving towards the place and approaching Captain Timokhin, who was walking in front of it. The regimental commander’s face expressed uncontrollable joy after a happily completed review. - The royal service... it’s impossible... another time you’ll end it at the front... I’ll be the first to apologize, you know me... I thanked you very much! - And he extended his hand to the company commander.
- For mercy's sake, general, do I dare! - answered the captain, turning red with his nose, smiling and revealing with a smile the lack of two front teeth, knocked out by the butt under Ishmael.
- Yes, tell Mr. Dolokhov that I will not forget him, so that he can be calm. Yes, please tell me, I kept wanting to ask how he is, how he is behaving? And that's all...
“He is very serviceable in his service, Your Excellency... but the charterer...” said Timokhin.
- What, what character? – asked the regimental commander.
“Your Excellency finds, for days,” said the captain, “that he is smart, learned, and kind.” It's a beast. In Poland he killed a Jew, if you please...
“Well, yes, well,” said the regimental commander, “we still need to feel sorry for the young man in misfortune.” After all, great connections... So you...
“I’m listening, Your Excellency,” Timokhin said, smiling, making it feel like he understood the boss’s wishes.
- Yes Yes.
The regimental commander found Dolokhov in the ranks and reined in his horse.
“Before the first task, epaulets,” he told him.
Dolokhov looked around, said nothing and did not change the expression of his mockingly smiling mouth.
“Well, that’s good,” continued the regimental commander. “The people each have a glass of vodka from me,” he added so that the soldiers could hear. – Thank you everyone! God bless! - And he, overtaking the company, drove up to another.
“Well, he’s really a good man; “You can serve with him,” said subaltern Timokhin to the officer walking next to him.
“One word, the king of hearts!... (the regimental commander was nicknamed the king of hearts),” the subaltern officer said, laughing.
The happy mood of the authorities after the review spread to the soldiers. The company walked cheerfully. Soldiers' voices were talking from all sides.
- What did they say, crooked Kutuzov, about one eye?
- Otherwise, no! Totally crooked.
- No... brother, he has bigger eyes than you. Boots and tucks - I looked at everything...
- How can he, my brother, look at my feet... well! Think…
- And the other Austrian, with him, was as if smeared with chalk. Like flour, white. I tea, how they clean ammunition!
- What, Fedeshow!... did he say that when the fighting began, you stood closer? They all said that Bunaparte himself stands in Brunovo.
- Bunaparte is worth it! he's lying, you fool! What he doesn’t know! Now the Prussian is rebelling. The Austrian, therefore, pacifies him. As soon as he makes peace, then war will open with Bunaparte. Otherwise, he says, Bunaparte is standing in Brunovo! That's what shows that he's a fool. Listen more.
- Look, damn the lodgers! The fifth company, look, is already turning into the village, they will cook porridge, and we still won’t reach the place.
- Give me a cracker, damn it.
- Did you give me tobacco yesterday? That's it, brother. Well, here we go, God be with you.
“At least they made a stop, otherwise we won’t eat for another five miles.”
– It was nice how the Germans gave us strollers. When you go, know: it’s important!
“And here, brother, the people have gone completely rabid.” Everything there seemed to be a Pole, everything was from the Russian crown; and now, brother, he’s gone completely German.
– Songwriters forward! – the captain’s cry was heard.
And twenty people ran out from different rows in front of the company. The drummer began to sing and turned to face the songwriters, and, waving his hand, began a drawn-out soldier’s song, which began: “Isn’t it dawn, the sun has broken...” and ended with the words: “Then, brothers, there will be glory for us and Kamensky’s father...” This song was composed in Turkey and was now sung in Austria, only with the change that in place of “Kamensky’s father” the words were inserted: “Kutuzov’s father.”
Having torn off these last words like a soldier and waving his hands, as if he was throwing something to the ground, the drummer, a dry and handsome soldier of about forty, looked sternly at the soldier songwriters and closed his eyes. Then, making sure that all eyes were fixed on him, he seemed to carefully lift with both hands some invisible, precious thing above his head, held it like that for several seconds and suddenly desperately threw it:
Oh, you, my canopy, my canopy!
“My new canopy...”, twenty voices echoed, and the spoon holder, despite the weight of his ammunition, quickly jumped forward and walked backwards in front of the company, moving his shoulders and threatening someone with his spoons. The soldiers, waving their arms to the beat of the song, walked with long strides, involuntarily hitting their feet. From behind the company the sounds of wheels, the crunching of springs and the trampling of horses were heard.
Kutuzov and his retinue were returning to the city. The commander-in-chief gave a sign for the people to continue walking freely, and pleasure was expressed on his face and on all the faces of his retinue at the sounds of the song, at the sight of the dancing soldier and the soldiers of the company walking cheerfully and briskly. In the second row, from the right flank, from which the carriage overtook the companies, one involuntarily caught the eye of a blue-eyed soldier, Dolokhov, who especially briskly and gracefully walked to the beat of the song and looked at the faces of those passing with such an expression, as if he felt sorry for everyone who did not go at this time with the company. A hussar cornet from Kutuzov's retinue, imitating the regimental commander, fell behind the carriage and drove up to Dolokhov.
The hussar cornet Zherkov at one time in St. Petersburg belonged to that violent society led by Dolokhov. Abroad, Zherkov met Dolokhov as a soldier, but did not consider it necessary to recognize him. Now, after Kutuzov’s conversation with the demoted man, he turned to him with the joy of an old friend:
- Dear friend, how are you? - he said at the sound of the song, matching the step of his horse with the step of the company.
- I am like? - Dolokhov answered coldly, - as you see.
The lively song gave particular significance to the tone of cheeky gaiety with which Zherkov spoke and the deliberate coldness of Dolokhov’s answers.

Khibiny - the name of this mountain range pleases the ears of travelers. Stunning snowy peaks, tundras with dwarf birch trees, powerful waterfalls and quiet clean lakes appear before your eyes. The combination of mountains and swamps of the Khibiny looks unusual: you should see it at least once in your life. Experienced tourists say that the Kola Peninsula does not simply let you go: its mysterious beauty beckons year after year, and the inaccessibility of its sharp rocks makes them come back again and again.

Where are the Khibiny?

Khibiny can be reached by car, train and plane. If you prefer the first option, head towards Murmansk along the P21 highway. Next, take the E105. Continue driving until kilometer 1230 - there you will see an intersection to the city of Apatity. There will be 28 kilometers left before it: at the entrance there will be a sign for Kirovsk - turn left and drive another 17 kilometers.

You can get to Apatity in any Murmansk language. They depart from Moscow, St. Petersburg, Vologda, Minsk. In summer, resort routes from Novorossiysk, Adler, and Astrakhan are added. The cost of a reserved seat depends on the station at which you step into the carriage. If this is Moscow, you will have to pay 3,000 rubles. The train follows the route for 30-32 hours.

You can fly to Khibiny by plane from Moscow, St. Petersburg or Cherepovets. The aircraft arrives at Khibiny airport - it is common to Apatity and Kirovsk. There is another option - a flight to Murmansk, and from there to Apatity. We have to cover another 200 kilometers along the highway.

If you are in Apatity, you can get to Kirovsk by minibus or buses No. 131 and 8. Both types of transport operate infrequently. The best option is to get to Kirovsk by taxi and get off at the Pirozhkovaya stop. So you will spend 100 rubles versus 600 for delivery to the city center. Many Kirov minibuses depart from Pirozhkovskaya.

What are the Khibiny mountains?

The Khibiny Mountains are considered the oldest mountains in Russia. They are 350 million years old. The mountains are located beyond the Arctic Circle at the 67th parallel. This greatly affects their nature: there is no vegetation on the slopes, and here and there you can see bald patches of snow, regardless of the time of year. The height of the mountains is 800-900 meters, the highest point is Mount Yudychvumchorr - 1200 meters.

Khibiny mountains from space are a fascinating sight. They look like a stone flower that has opened its petals towards the northern sun. In clear weather, the mountains are visible especially clearly - sharp peaks of rocks cut the blue sky and strike fear into travelers. Local residents are afraid to approach the Khibiny Mountains winter time- they understand how dangerous icy slopes are.

The name of the mountain was given due to the peculiarities of the local dialect. Previously, the Sami called them Umptek, and later they began to call them Hiben, which means plateau. Over time, the name stuck and remained, and local residents changed it to Khibiny.

Sights of Khibiny

We recommend that visitors to the Khibiny explore the numerous hiking trails and walk to the Blue Lakes Gorge and the Pyrrhotite Gorge. On the way you will come across a 1950 adit. An interesting hike awaits you if you chose the Molybdenum Mine as a Khibiny attraction. To get there you need to take the road built in 1930. In turn, a river ford leads to it. Opens from the mine great view to Maly Vudyavr and Mount Poachvumchorr.

Takhtarvumchorr plateau - landscapes for lovers of surrealism. The pictures that appear to travelers are similar to those on Mars. Unusual minerals are scattered across the ground. Along the way you can come across abandoned miners' tools.

Aku-Aku Gorge is considered romantic place. According to Sami legends, there was a fierce struggle between the Sami and the invaders. Where Lapp blood fell, eudialyte grew, a reddish mineral. Not far from the gorge there is a waterfall and a clear, light lake.

The Kukisvumchorr plateau is another attraction of the Khibiny, famous for Lake Akademicheskoye. It is a heavenly emerald color, the water is clear and very cold. A delightful route goes along the banks of the raging Risjok River, through the South Rischorr pass. Along the road there is a grumpy waterfall and incredibly beautiful slopes.

The sights of Apatit are interesting for both adults and children. There is a research center for conducting experiments, and the Museum of Mineralogy. The exhibition features hundreds of unique minerals. Some of them are not found in any corner of the planet.

There are many other museums in Apatity: the museum-archive of the history of the study and development of the European North, the Museum of International cultural center and the art gallery "M". Tickets to these places cost several hundred rubles and are available to everyone. For young parents with children, a visit to the children's art gallery “Kovcheg” will be interesting.

If you are lucky enough to visit Apatity in February, visit the annual exhibition “Stone Flower”. Hundreds of craftsmen offer to purchase stone products: jewelry, household items and kitchen utensils. It is impossible to imagine this splendor: you just need to see it.

In summer, notable places in Apatity are Akademgorodok and the park near the Polyarny cinema. Roses, wild roses, lilacs and other beautiful flowers grow in the park. Everything smells fragrant. Nearby is a monument to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War.

Tourism in the Khibiny Mountains begins from Kirovsk. It is located next to Lake Bolshoi Vudyavr. The Temple of the Savior of the Image of Jesus Christ Not Made by Hands is considered a significant attraction. The sanctuary is decorated with nine bronze bells. They were made especially for Kirovsk by Ural craftsmen. The decoration of the temple is rich: many icons, some streaming myrrh.

Visit local history and mining-geological museums. Visit the Museum of Literature. It is designed in the thoughtful and philosophical spirit of the writer Erofeev. Fans of his work will feel in their native element.

A must-see attraction in Kirovsk is the Polar-Alpine Botanical Garden-Institute named after. ON THE. Avrorina. This is a protected area containing hundreds of plants. Many are unique. The garden administration offers excursions to the nursery and greenhouse. It definitely won't be boring.

In winter, not far from the botanical garden there is an area called the “Snow Village”. As soon as the first snow falls, dozens of ice and snow figures are erected on its territory. They are made life-size of the character and look magical. A visit to the village will be a real holiday for children and adults.

For tourism in the Khibiny Mountains, we recommend paying attention to the Amethyst Hotel. It is located on Lenin Street, 3 in an eight-story building. This is the city center, so you can easily reach the main attractions and train stations. There is a restaurant nearby where you can have a tasty and inexpensive dinner. The rooms have comfortable and new furniture, private bathrooms.

On Pobeda Street, 29a there is a hotel Isovella, which translated from Sami means “A light breath of wind”. A special feature of the hotel is its location - half a kilometer from the city, among the forest. In the evening you will be provided with wonderful walks and fresh air. Another representative office of the hotel is the Apatit “Rus” recreation center. From its windows there is a beautiful view of Lake Imandra. There is a hall, billiards, and a gym. There is a banquet hall for celebrations.

The Sheri Hotel on Gladysheva Street, 6a is popular. There are only five rooms, but each is furnished in a homely and tasteful way. There is a TV, a wardrobe and a soft corner. Linen is provided free of charge. Picks up WI-FI.

In Guba Kislaya there is a secluded recreation center Apatit-Berloga. Beautiful log houses, Sami milestones and a bathhouse with birch wood - what else does a tired traveler need after a long journey to the Khibiny? The houses are spacious, suitable for a company of 3-5 people. The recreation center rents out snowmobiles and turntables.

Hotels in Kirovsk

There are expensive hotels in Kirovsk. This is explained by the availability of routes through the Khibiny beauties. If the price doesn't bother you, go to the city center to the Severnaya Hotel. This is where Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin likes to relax. At the same time, the prices are not inflated: a tourist with a modest budget can stay here, paying 1,500 rubles for a room. An expensive room costs 7000. Nearby are the Aykuayvenchorr ski slopes.

The Ekkos Hotel has earned positive reviews from travelers. The fund is represented by 13 bright rooms with a total capacity of 40 people. Each room has a refrigerator, a bath or shower, and air conditioning. There is free internet. Couples with children are offered rooms with a kitchen.

You can comfortably spend your holiday in the Khibiny Mountains at the Parkovaya Hotel. It is located on the street of the same name and combines maximum comfort and nice price. The rooms are furnished with fresh furniture and have free WI-FI.

The Khibiny Mountains have a unique climate. It is formed by Arctic and Atlantic winds and is changeable even in warm weather. There is a polar night, which has a significant influence on the formation of weather conditions. Very humid: rains frequently, but evaporation is weak. Coupled with sharp gusts of wind, ordinary rains turn into mountain thunderstorms.

There is no concept of “season” on the Kola Peninsula. All seasons are mixed up and last longer than expected. For example, winter is the longest - 7-8 months. All this time frosts persist, the slopes are covered with snow. It does not melt in the gorges all year round.

The ice melts at the end of spring, so the polar day begins from May 12 to July 19, which is also summer. The weather is unstable and not very warm. In September frosts begin again and winter sets in.

Summer rest Khibiny will appeal primarily to climbers. However, if you don't active tourist, dont be upset. The mountains offer many easy hiking routes to enjoy the stunning nature of the north. Visit Maly Vudyavr Lake: it is located between a dense forest and mountains. A great place for a picnic and outdoor games.

Another unusual place that is worth visiting on your summer holiday is the Ganeshin Circus. It offers a gorgeous view of the granite rocks and Lake Maly Vudyavr. If you went on a hike for more than one day, choose the circus as a place to stay for the night - there are no mosquitoes and it is relatively warm.

Be sure to get to Mount Kukisvumchorr. The fast river Yuksporryok flows there - it will lead to the Shchel pass. Overcome it to reach an untouched corner of the planet - you will be amazed at how pure and majestic the mountains and lakes look. Look to the south - there you will see quarries with apatite ore and the Tulyok River.

Not far from the Umbozersky pass there is a “Beautiful” waterfall. It fully lives up to its name and is considered one of the most wonderful places in Russia. Summer holidays in the Khibiny Mountains will be remembered for a long time, and the photographs will cause aching boredom in the heart for many years to come.

Winter holidays in Khibiny is represented by ski resorts and exciting snowmobile excursions. Famous trails run along the slopes of the Aykuavenchorr and Kukisvumchorr mountains. At the top of Aykuavenchorr there are three complexes - “Aykuay”, “Kolasportland” and “Big Woodyavr”. The length of the tracks is more than 30 kilometers. Here you can find something to suit every taste - skiing, snowboarding or sliding down a hill on a colored bun.

Staying in Apatity? Then you go to Sparrow Mountain. It is perfect if you are a beginner or teaching children. In addition, the slope is protected from the wind, so skiing here is comfortable and warm.

Khibiny is a magical land where phones and tablets are not needed. Nature penetrates the soul, stirring up the most intimate memories. It’s easy to fall in love here or, conversely, forget yourself. The Khibiny Mountains are also no stranger to the unbridled joy of hiking big company will become a vivid life experience.