Holiday season in the DPR: Sedovo. Azov resort "DPR": Prices, beaches, entertainment Sedovo (Photo) Which beach in Sedovo is better
The only seaside resort in the uncontrolled part of Donbass is again filled with visitors. Peaceful time village Sedovo was not particularly famous among local townspeople. The low level of service, poor infrastructure, unkempt beaches and boarding houses repelled vacationers.
With the construction of checkpoints and the outbreak of hostilities, everything changed, and the flow of tourists became inexhaustible. Despite high housing prices and the low level of recreation in Sedovo, people continue to go to the seaside resort with their families, because no other type of vacation is now available to them.
Cost of products
Prices on food counters in Sedovo are high, as throughout the “republic”. The most expensive are meat, fish, and alcohol. Therefore, visitors try to bring with them fresh meat, sausages and alcohol from neighboring uncontrolled cities in order to reduce the cost of their vacation.
Local stores are trying to control the cost of products for the so-called social group of goods: flour, cereals, pasta, bread, milk, sugar, salt. Therefore, the price of flour, cereals and dairy products does not differ much from Donetsk. These products are more affordable, and the difference can be from 2 to 5 rubles (1-2.22 UAH), sometimes higher. Visitors note that the markup is insignificant. But other products are approximately 20% more expensive. The highest prices for the pocket of the average tourist are felt in local markets.
In general, the cost of bread in Sedovo stores starts from 16 to 20 rubles (approximately at the local TsRB exchange rate of 7-9 UAH), the price of sugar reaches 52 rubles/kg. (23 UAH), for 1.5 liters of milk at the market they ask for 50-60 rubles (22-27 UAH).
During the period of June, the cost of vegetables and fruits in the markets fell slightly. A kilogram of cherries on the market will cost buyers 75-100 rubles/kg. (33-44 UAH), kilogram of potatoes 60 rubles/kg. (27 UAH), cucumbers - 50-60 rubles (22-27 UAH), tomatoes - 100-120 rubles per kilogram (44-53 UAH), the cost of apples on the market reaches 110 rubles per kilogram (49 UAH. ), strawberries from 100-130 rubles (44-58 UAH). Although locals can find tomatoes for 70 rubles per kilogram (31 UAH), and new potatoes from 40 rubles (18 UAH).
The price of fish products is quite high. Dry ram can be bought from 250-350 rubles per kilogram (111-155 UAH), a bunch of fish will cost more - from 150 to 250 rubles (67-111 UAH), a kilogram of pike perch from 400 rubles (178 UAH), a bunch 10 pieces of bullheads from 50 rubles (22 UAH), 100 grams of shrimp will cost 70 rubles (31 UAH). Vacationers have to pay quite a bit for this seafood “delicacy”.
A kilogram of pork meat will cost 250-350 rubles (111-155 UAH), a cold-frozen chicken carcass can be bought from 150-160 rubles/kg. (67-71 UAH), chicken fillet – 269 rubles per kilogram (119 UAH). In uncontrolled cities, chicken meat can be bought much cheaper.
Visitors who count on budget holiday, go shopping at the local supermarket next to the bazaar. The More supermarket resembles the ATB chain of stores. Here you can buy cheaper products, alcohol, vegetables and fruits. Therefore, there is usually a very long line of customers at the store checkouts.
Also in the village they opened a popular store in the uncontrolled territory with the typical name “Alcomarket”. Cost alcoholic drinks in the resort Sedovo is noticeably higher than in the “republic”. The price of 2.5 liter beer starts from 120 rubles (53 UAH), and a bottle of inexpensive vodka will cost vacationers 160-165 rubles (71-73 UAH) for 0.5 liters.
Beach tourism in uncontrolled Sedovo
Except high prices for housing and food, another disadvantage of holidays in Sedovo is the lack of clean and well-groomed beaches. As a rule, the central beaches are the dirtiest and inconvenient for swimming.
To relax on a well-groomed and clean sea coast, visitors have to take a bus to the Spit area. Every day a bus leaves from the center of Sedovo, which takes tourists to a clean, remote beach along the Obryv-Kosa route. The bus runs every 30 minutes. The fare costs 10 rubles per person one way (4.44 UAH).
The journey by bus takes about 5 minutes, but walking the nearest beach can take up to 25 minutes or more. With a small child, such a daily route is not always acceptable, so vacationers swim on the nearest beaches. Of course, the conditions there are not always suitable for family holidays.
Lack of ATMs and mobile communications
In addition, there have been no Ukrainian banks or ATMs in the resort village of Sedovo for more than three years. During this time, the local “authority” was able to open only one bank branch of the “TsRB” in the village council building in the village. To withdraw cash from bank cards at the checkout, vacationers have to cover a fairly long distance. At the same time, ATMs on site resort village are absent altogether.
There is also a communication problem in Sedovo. The Ukrainian mobile operator MTS is completely blocked here. Although locals say that in some places you can still find weak access points for Ukrainian communications. Therefore, the only option to talk to relatives is to buy cards from local mobile operators “Phoenix” or “Lugakom” in advance. You can also find a boarding house with working Wi-Fi, but there are often problems with Internet access in the village. And visitors are essentially left without communication.
Night life in the village of Sedovo it is also absent. On seaside resort none of them work night club or a disco for young people. The only place to rest, the Miami club, which operated the year before last, stands behind a thick layer of dust.
To diversify the summer season and somehow make money from visitors, some local boarding houses plan open-air discos for vacationers.
Also in the center there are several local cafes with hookah, alcoholic drinks and music. Usually, visiting local bars and cafes costs visitors a pretty penny. Starting at nine in the evening, military patrols begin checking tourists’ passports. And after ten, everything closes entertainment venues in the village.
With the onset of the curfew (after 23.00), life in the seaside resort of Sedovo completely dies out until the next morning, and the streets are patrolled by people with weapons.
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In wartime, summer became more than just a time of year for the residents of the Republic. It turned into something special. People are looking forward to it in order to take their mind off the war a little. Someone can afford to go to Russian or foreign resorts. But the majority of the population does not have such financial capabilities. For the latter, the village of Sedovo is one of the most suitable options.
Over the previous two years, more than two hundred thousand people vacationed in Sedovo. Our friends, neighbors, colleagues - every tenth one has visited the only resort of the Republic. Some returned home with positive emotions, and others with the words “I won’t set foot there anymore.” So we decided to scout out the situation in the village before the coming season.
Book your tickets in advance
We buy the coveted tickets for the Donetsk-Sedovo bus at the Yuzhny bus station on the day of departure. For two seats on the bus we pay three hundred rubles - one hundred and fifty for each. In summer, tickets will have to be booked in advance - an increase in the influx of vacationers is predicted.
Did you know that this year a checkpoint was set up at the entrance to Sedovo? - asks a woman sitting next to her on the bus.
Did not know. So, will it be harder to drive now? - we clarify with concern.
It won't be harder, it will be safer!
Driving along the highway, we regularly notice pheasants outside the window. And once my gaze fell on a hare running away from the noise of a car. In a word, you immediately feel further away from the bustle of the city and closer to nature.
Checking does not take much time
We approach the checkpoint that our neighbor was talking about. Everyone is asked to leave the bus for mandatory registration. Locals show a kind of pass that allows you not to register.
“Get your passports and mobile phones ready,” the policeman addresses the people standing in line.
About ten of us gathered, the rest left earlier. It takes about a minute to a minute and a half to register everyone - in total the bus delay is ten to fifteen minutes. Passport data, number mobile phone and its international identifier, for this you need to dial a special combination of numbers.
Wow, as many checkpoints as possible, checks, when will this all end,” as we understand, a woman of about forty complains to her husband.
Well, are you feeling bad? But now few people dare to steal or do something worse,” the man reassures her with a serious expression on his face.
No one has any problems at the checkpoint. Within a few minutes after loading onto the bus, we get off in the very center of Sedovo. To be honest, the road was tiring. Three hours on the road and only one stop to get some fresh air - in Telmanovo.
How to contact family
We set out to look for housing. We are planning to stay for a day or two. All around they are banging hammers and pulling up signs. Preparing for summer season is moving at full speed. But not everyone is in a hurry to open. The disco, some cafes and a couple of shops do not yet look quite ready for the season.
It's still early. Everything will open by the first days of June! - a local teenage cyclist explains to us.
By the way, we immediately notice that there are very few young people among the residents of Sedovo here. Most of is eager to study in Donetsk. This is justified by the fact that there are more prospects and opportunities in the capital of the Republic.
We find housing in about fifteen minutes. And in the summer, if you don’t book it in advance, you have to wander around for hours looking for it. We chose a house with air conditioning, a TV, and most importantly, on the seashore. Another plus is that you have your own shower and toilet. For such a number they ask for a thousand rubles per day. It can accommodate three people. Prices will not rise significantly in the first half of June.
The owners of boarding houses, small courtyards and recreation centers told Komsomolskaya Pravda the estimated prices for the coming season. Private sector in June it will cost around one hundred and fifty rubles per person, rooms with conditions and amenities - about five hundred rubles per person per day. For the so-called “Luxuries” you will have to pay extra. Prices for them have not yet been announced. They say that they will be repelled by the influx of people.
We have Wi-Fi, and this is the most necessary thing in Sedovo,” says the administrator of the boarding house where we checked in.
Indeed, for those who do not have a card mobile operator"Phoenix" - the Internet is the only way to contact family and friends. Communication on other mobile operators has not been available here for a long time.
Where to shop
“I warn you, it’s better to buy tickets for the return trip in advance,” the administrator adds with a smile and leaves to restore order in the yard.
We buy bus tickets at the village administration building. Not only is the office of the head of the village located here. Next door to it is a bus station ticket office, a sewing service office and a hairdresser's.
It’s not at all difficult to find anything in Sedovo. Everything is located nearby here. This is the village we like. If you want to go to the museum, you won’t have to go far - it’s in the very center. Then to the store? No problem - half a minute from the museum. From the store it’s a minute to the market and pharmacy, here the village administration is located. And then you can go to the library - also a minute's walk. This is for those for whom a book is still interesting, and not old-fashioned.
So, after leaving the administration, we go to the supermarket to skimp on dinner. Let's find out the prices at the same time. We immediately notice that here they are higher than in Donetsk. Compare with the “First Republican Supermarket”.
The price of cucumbers is surprising - ninety rubles per kilogram. This is approximately forty rubles more expensive than in the capital of the Republic. Garlic and frozen fillet are fifty rubles more expensive. Prices for alcohol are also overpriced, but prices for flour, milk, salt, sugar, onions and bread do not differ significantly.
After shopping we return to the boarding house. Already here we are advised to buy food at the market. The prices are cheaper there and almost everything is homemade.
Advantages and disadvantages
The evening turns out to be a fighting one. You have to fight mosquitoes. There are really a lot of them here. Before your trip, be sure to stock up on remedies against the little “bloodsuckers.” There are also positive aspects. The sound of the night surf, the smell of sea freshness and the starry sky are pleasing.
In the morning, as we were advised, we go to the market. It is better to come to the trading shops no later than five to six hours, immediately after dawn. At this time, the “stars” of the trade arrive and, as it turns out, sell out very quickly.
Prices for products are reasonable. Strawberries - two hundred and thirty rubles per kilogram. Eggs - fifty per ten, onions - thirty, sour cream - one hundred per half-liter glass, new potatoes - sixty per kilogram.
Not everyone will be able to calmly walk past the fish display either. Dried pike perch will cost three hundred and fifty rubles per kilogram, ram - on average one hundred and fifty rubles per ten.
Milk from Zorka and Marta is in great demand!
We notice a queue at the beginning of the market. The seller does not have time to serve milk. Three liters - one hundred rubles.
This is milk from Marta and Zorka. Try it, you won’t regret it, a regular customer suggests. - I try to come for him every morning.
We try the milk - it’s really tasty. We buy a bottle for breakfast - to improve our health, so to speak.
Say hello to Marta and Zorka! - we say finally, the seller sees us off with a pleasant smile.
In the afternoon we go to the beach. There are almost no people here. A few beddings in total. But the brave souls are already swimming. We also go into the water. Despite annual Epiphany bathing in the ice hole for seven years, the water seems too cold.
The next day, Sunday, we plan to talk with the head of Sedovo. Local residents say that Pyotr Alekseevich usually gardens on weekends. Let's go to the head of the village directly to the beds.
Adviсe!
Don't forget mosquito repellent;
Book your bus tickets and accommodation in advance;
If you arrive in the evening, it is better to bring your own meat for barbecue;
Don't forget to catch at least one crimson sunrise on the beach;
Visit a museum;
Bring fishing gear with you;
Buy Phoenix mobile operator cards for yourself and your loved ones.
Read the continuation and interview with the head of Sedovo tomorrow.
Donetsk region
SEDOVO- an urban-type settlement in the Novoazovsky district of the Donetsk region, located 50 km from railway station Mariupol, on the very shore Sea of Azov in an ecologically clean recreation area on Krivaya Spit. The village is named after the Russian Arctic explorer Georgiy Yakovlevich Sedov, who was born here in the family of a fisherman.
Sedovo is located on the shore of the Taganrog Bay. The village has a special air - sea air, saturated with iodine and bromine.
All recreation centers, boarding houses, hotels in Sedovo located in close proximity to the sea - from 20 to 100 m. Your choice a large number of boarding houses, recreation centers, children's health camps. Accommodation services are designed for any financial capabilities, the prices are the most affordable compared to other cities and towns. All bases are located on a spit behind the center of the village. Some are located by the sea, some are on the second line across the road and do not have own beach.
Housing in Sedovo for rent almost everywhere in the private sector - there are signs on the fences. Housing is mainly in summer houses and sheds. There is little luxury housing.
All summer long there are food markets in the village and you can buy homemade dairy products, fruits, vegetables, melons, and fresh fish.
Rest in Sedovo is varied and will be especially interesting for young people. Nightlife in Sedovo is in full swing. IN summer time In the recreation area there are such famous discos as “Jamaica” and “Miami”. Lots of summer cafes and bars. The prices are not very high, the food is good. There is an amusement park (open from 18-00), go-karts, billiard rooms and other entertainment.
Sights of Sedovo. On the spit there is the Bakai Krivoi Spit reserve. Places of mass nesting of birds and local estuaries are protected (mostly salty, but one, the largest, is freshwater).
Smt. Sedovo is the birthplace of the outstanding polar traveler G.Ya. Sedov, whose work you can get acquainted with in historical museum(opened in July 1990). In the spring of 1896, an unknown young man left home secretly from everyone, so that 16 years later he would become famous researcher who decided to reach the North Pole. He failed to reach the Pole. Before reaching Rudolf Island, Sedov G.Ya. died and was buried at Cape Auk of this island on March 5, 1914. Two bays and a peak on Novaya Zemlya, a glacier and a cape on Franz Josef Land, an island in the Barents Sea, a cape in Antarctica and the icebreaking steamer Hero Sedov are named after Sedov.
The museum is located at st. Sedova, 1, open on all days except Tuesday, from 10.00 to 18.00.
Beaches in Sedovo is not for everyone. Most of the coast is laid with concrete slabs due to the current problem of beach erosion for the entire coast. The water in the sea is the warmest, but not the cleanest; in August the sea begins to bloom. There are a lot of people on the beaches. The beaches here are small, limited by concrete piers. On some beaches, access to the water is via stairs. Some recreation centers have sand and shell beaches. There is entertainment on the beaches: banana (20 UAH per place), tablet (25 UAH per place), scooter (20 UAH per minute). In some places there are waterslides. Almost all beaches are paid - entrance 3 UAH. The sea is very shallow and the water is not very clean. There are no mosquitoes.
Climate temperate, transitional from marine to continental. Summer is warm, sunny, dry. average temperature air in summer +28C. The swimming season lasts from May to September. Average water temperature is +22C.
Enjoy your stay in village Sedovo, Donetsk region on the shore of the Azov Sea!
You can get to Sedovo from Donetsk through Starobeshevo and Telmanovo (about 140 km) or through Mariupol (about 170 km). You can get from Donetsk by bus from the Southern Bus Station or by minibus. From Mariupol go from central bus station about an hour and a half through Novoazovsk. There is little transport, mainly to Donetsk.
On a note! At the entrance to Novoazovsk from Sedovo there is a well from which you can get excellent artesian water (water from another well is bottled, carbonated and sold under the name “Novoazovskaya”).
To Mariupol: 50 km
Entertainment: There is
Cafes, bars: There is
Beach: concrete + sand + shell
Bus station: There is
Railway station: No
Airport: No
Radio taxi: No
Architectural monuments: No
Attractions: No
Where can an honest worker from the self-proclaimed DPR relax? It would seem that the most obvious answer is Crimea, so dear and close in spirit. But it was not there! First of all, an honest worker from the DPR does not have money for Crimea. Salaries in the republic start at 3 thousand rubles, which is less than the cost of an air ticket Rostov-on-Don - Simferopol. As for prices in Crimea itself, I asked about this. Only the military and government officials can afford to relax at Crimean resorts among the residents of the DPR.
In addition, it is not so easy to get to Crimea. If you are saving on a plane, you must remember that it is almost impossible to travel through the territory of Ukraine by car. This means that you need to make a detour through Rostov and Krasnodar, and then take a ferry across the Kerch Strait.
Therefore, the choice for vacationers in general is this: either go and spend all their money in the dashing establishments of Rostov, or prefer beach tourism in Sedovo. Nigina Beroeva will tell you about this resort and its flavor:
The small resort of Sedovo turned out to be the only place recreation on the territory of the self-proclaimed republics. Before the war, the place, to put it mildly, was not fashionable. Most citizens traveled to Crimea, Berdyansk or abroad. Now the most common sign in Sedovo is “No vacancies.” 
From Donetsk to the resort - 130 kilometers along a very bad road. They say that Alexander Zakharchenko has twice demanded that the road be repaired, but nothing has happened. A normal sign of statehood. By the way, the head of the DPR regularly comes to Sedovo to relax. Which they definitely talk about on local channels. There are only two checkpoints on the way from Donetsk to the resort: one at the exit from Donetsk, the second at the entrance to Sedovo. They check quickly and don’t create traffic jams. You can get there by bus, minibus or taxi.
The central square of Sedovo is located near the museum, naturally, Sedov. Georgy Yakovlevich was a naval officer, an outstanding polar explorer, hydrographer, in 1912-1914 he organized and led the first Russian expedition to the North Pole. The Krivaya Kosa farm, where Sedov was born, was renamed Sedovo in 1940.
The square near the museum is a popular place. They give out here free wifi(you can ask the first passerby for the password). Internet access is also available in some homes. Come to some woman Masha, pay 50 rubles and post photos on social networks. The problem is that there is practically no cellular communication in Sedovo. Ukrainian operators do not service this territory; Russian towers are too far away (although the border is approximately 5-7 km). In short, it is not clear why, but our operators are not working either.
But the DPR-Phoenix connection is working. This mobile operator appeared about a year and a half ago. They made it on the basis of the “nationalized” Kyivstar. You can only call from Phoenix to Phoenix; all other operators do not work with it. But communication is inexpensive: the subscription fee is 50 rubles per month. Therefore, many citizens have two or three phones: Phoenix, MTS and Life. 
The beaches stretch for 10 kilometers and are separated by fishing buildings, dams, and sanatoriums. 
In the center of Sedovo the beaches are shell-like, but if you drive three or four kilometers away they are sandy. Everywhere is clean. 
Agitation 
If there is a stall or cafe on the beach, then businessmen take care of the territory, everything else is cleaned by utility workers. Anatoly and Alexander, whom I met, only this year opened a tent on the shore. This business is profitable, there are more and more people every day. Products are brought from Russia. 
People sincerely rejoice at the long-awaited vacation. During the two years of war, many allowed themselves to do so for the first time. 
“We used to vacation in Turkey and Egypt,” says Elizaveta from Gorlovka. “Now we’re happy that we even came here.” You can't even hear shots here. And we still have cannonades every night. I called my mother today, she says that we spent the night in the basement again. 
There are similar stories under every beach umbrella here. About how they hid with their children from bombings in a field, how they had to lie down on the ground “with their heads towards a flying shell,” how they lost relatives, friends, and neighbors. 
Abandoned rusty fishing infrastructure along the entire coast. Some enterprises closed in peacetime, others during hostilities. 
Several workshops are currently operating. But there is a spawning ban on fishing until the fall. In any case, tourism now brings residents of the village much more money than fishing. 
But you get such surreal landscapes. 
The biggest problem in Sedovo is housing. The infrastructure here was very bad even before the war. The bulk of vacationers settle in the private sector. Local residents convert everything they can into housing: barns, chicken coops, attics, verandas. Shower and toilet are outside, the summer kitchen is shared. Everything is like in Soviet films about holidays in Sochi or Anapa. 
I rented a former shed with two beds for 400 rubles a day. 200 rubles per bed is average price. Everything is very clean, but stuffy and hot. My neighbors were extremely intelligent - the dean of the law faculty and an employee of Ukrenergobyt. 
They keep an eye on the morals of the guests here: my colleagues wanted to rent any shed with three beds. But they were refused: it was clear what two guys and one girl would do at night. The guys had to go to the checkpoint and spend the night in the car (there was no other way, it’s forbidden to be on the street during curfew). 
There are many sanatoriums left in Sedovo from Soviet times. 
Some of them were mothballed seven to ten years ago. And they look like after a bombing. 
But this one has been reactivated, and people live there. 600 rubles per room: three beds, water in the shower according to schedule. Of course, you can’t live like that. But people are happy about this now too. 
One of the most decent sanatoriums, "Metallurg" (there are no people in the photo, because there was a sanitary day between arrivals).
- Everything is busy, dear girl, everything! Today there will be another race, the tickets are sold out,” said the director of Metallurg.
– Do you have a state sanatorium?
- Yes sir! More precisely, semi-state. But one could even say that it’s private,” the director got emotional and left. 
A trip to Metallurg costs 11,800 rubles for 10 days per person. This is a lot of money for Donetsk. 
Beach 
Descent to the water 
In the sunset, the beaches gradually become empty. Nightlife starts early: curfew at 23:00. 
All entertainment is concentrated on one long street. 
Attractions for children, air hockey, Segway rides. If in Donetsk entertainment at least in the city center did not disappear even during active hostilities, then residents of small towns and villages located on the front line really missed any joys. 
Instead of targets in the shooting range there are portraits of “enemies of the people.” 
There are few military-patriotic souvenirs - that's all I found. 
The militias themselves are difficult to recognize: they almost never wear uniforms here. Weapons, as in Donetsk, are allowed to be carried only while on duty. For example, if a commander arrives, they guard him with weapons. The police also keep order.
“We are worried that war will start again in the fall,” Marina from Yenakievo (her husband is a military man) complains to me. – No one really follows the Minsk agreements anymore. 
In the meantime, people are trying to somehow take a break from the war, explosions and basements.
Bars and discos are located close to each other, so the music mixes into some kind of wild cocktail of noise.
The most popular places– Submarine and Miami. Admission is paid: girls 50 rubles, young people – 100 rubles. At Submarine you get another bottle of beer as a bonus. 
The musical repertoire is not much different from the capital's clubs. Beer and cocktails flow like water. Young people dance desperately and have a blast: they need to have fun before 23:00, and live in peace until the end of the truce. 
Text and photographs by Nigina Beroeva.