Horse riding route along the Eastern Sayan "Grigory Fedoseev's path"
Detailed description tour:
Horse route “The Path of Grigory Fedoseev”
We invite you to make an exciting horseback trip to the Kozya char, which is located in unique area Mozhar lakes.
Golets Kozya is the last and significant peak of the Western end of the Kryzhina ridge. This route is a small part of the route of the famous Sayan expedition, which in 1938 went to the Eastern Sayan to study the area, under the leadership of Grigory Fedoseev
Grigory Fedoseev is an engineer-geodesist, the leader of several scientific expeditions, on the one hand, on the other hand, he is a famous writer, whose books are read by millions of readers. His legendary book “We are walking along the Eastern Sayan” has long been known to all travel lovers. It was on the Kozya mountain that the first geodetic point was set up by the Sayan expedition. The view from the top is stunning in its beauty, the entire adjacent mountainous country of the Eastern Sayan with its famous char Moscow, Chebulak, Okunevy with numerous clean lakes.
Our route includes an excursion to Lake Mozharskoye, Lake Tagasuk and, of course, climbing the Kozya char. The majestic char has been standing near Lake Mozharsky for centuries, protecting it from invasions. In addition to the three Mozhar reservoirs, you will see a number of beautiful lakes of glacial origin. The most beautiful of them is Tiberkul, the lower part of the lake is surrounded by flat mountains covered with fir forest. Traces of the action of glaciers are clearly visible on the lake in the form of ground boulders and polished rocks sticking out on the surface of the reservoir. Lakes Spasskoye, Semenovskoye, Varlaama, Maly Tiberkul are much smaller than Big Tiberkul. It is rightfully considered the most picturesque lake in the area.
Tour information:
Type: Horse
Region: Krasnoyarsk region(Kuraginsky district)
Services: transport services, guide services, food, insurance, equipment rental, horse rental, sauna
Tour difficulty level: Good physical fitness
Accommodation: 2- or 3-person tents on the route
Arrivals: From 06/10/08 to 07/08/08 and 07/23/08-09/10/2008 as groups are formed
Duration of the tour: 9 days / 8 nights
Min/Max number of people in the group: Min. 8/max. 12
Price:
Tour program
1 day/ Transport service
Arrival in Abakan. Meeting with a company representative. Breakfast in a city cafe. Departure for the route to the Kuraginsky district. Upon arrival, lunch in a specially equipped place. TB training. Selection of horses for each participant. Training detours. Tour of the village. Organization of a camp on the banks of the Kazyr River. Rest. Village dinner. Bathhouse.
Day 2/ Horse route
Exit to the equestrian route to Lake Tagasuk. The route passes along taiga trails and wetlands. Stop at Lake Varlama. Parking. Accommodation in tents. The total length of the route is about 15 km
Day 3/ Horse route
Exit to Tagasuk base. The total length of the route is about 15 km. Arrival at the base. Accommodation in village houses. Village dinner. Russian bath Excursion tour by boats of lakes Upper and Lower Tagasuk, Lake Mozharsky. Evening at the base. Accommodation in village houses.
Day 4/ Horse route
Exit to the equestrian route to the foot of the alpine zone of the Kozya peak. Alpine meadows. Stop and spend the night in the mountain area of the summit. The total length of the route is about 12 km. Meals and rest stops are provided along the way. Accommodation in tents.
Day 5 / Horse route
Exit to walking route to the top of Kozya, a walk along the ridge, a panoramic view of the surrounding area, picturesque gorges, lakes. The total length of the walking path is about 17 km. The camp is located at the foot of the mountain. Accommodation in tents.
Day 6 / Horse route
Excursion to the equestrian route to the alpine meadows of the southern slope of the Kryzhina ridge, excursions to picturesque cascades and mountain waterfalls. The total length of the route is about 13 km. Meals and rest stops are provided midway. Night near the Kryzhina ridge. Accommodation in tents
Day 7/ Parking
Parking at the foot of the ridge. Radial walking tours.
Day 8/ Horse route
Return to Tagasuk base. The total length of the route is about 20 km. Meals and rest stops are provided within 10 km. Late arrival at base. Rest. Village dinner. Russian bath.
Day 9/ Horse route
Departure Lake Tagasuk – Petropavlovka village. Lunch on arrival. Departure to Abakan
Required documents: Russian passport - for Russian citizens
International passport - for foreign citizens.
Transport: Delivery to the starting point of the route is carried out in comfortable minibuses.
Accommodation conditions: On the route 2, 3-person tents
Meals: Meals on the route are 3 times a day - prepared independently (food provided, dishes, fire equipment)
Features: There are a lot of ticks and horseflies in the area. Carry a sufficient amount of protective equipment against these insects.
Tourists participate in organizing the camp and assembling equipment. All persons on the route must strictly observe the safety regulations of equestrian routes; follow the recommendations of the attendants
Recommendations: Mandatory vaccinations and means of protection against harmful insects (ticks).
Personal equipment to take with you:
1. warm clothes (jacket, Polartek trousers);
2. windproof suit;
3. raincoat;
4. neoprene socks, cotton socks, wool socks;
5. Set of underwear.
6. Tracksuit.
7. changeable shoes (boots, sneakers and flip-flops)
8. Rubber boots or (for fishermen) light pants-boots. shorts,
9. trousers (cotton); T-shirt,
10. long sleeve shirt;
11. swimwear;
12. sun hat;
13. sunscreen;
14. insect repellent (mosquito net);
15. individual first aid kit;
16. headlamp;
17. Work gloves (construction)
18. Rafting bag (80-100 liters)
19. Backpack.
20. Hermetic packaging for documents.
21. Toiletries.
22. Knife. Sewing repair kit.
23. Honey certificate of no contraindications to participation in the tour in taiga conditions.
24. Fishing tackle.
Warnings: Don't forget what you chose active view rest and be prepared for field living conditions.
Supervisor: S. Varenikov, Moscow
Report on a mountain hike 2 k.s. according to Arkhyz in July 2013 Part 1
Moscow City Central Tourist Club
REPORT
about mountain trekking category 2 difficulty
in the Western Caucasus (Arkhyz), committed by a group
Moscow tourists schools basic level at MGCTK,
Route book No. 1/3-202
head Varenikov S.R.
Location
Western Caucasus, Arkhyz
Type of tourism
Number of participants
Length of the active part of the hike, km
Duration
running days
Dates
Route thread
Moscow – Nevinnomyssk – Arkhyz village – Lunnaya Polyana – lane. Fedoseeva + per. Agur Yuzhny (1A) – lane. Mylgval (1A) – lake. Lazurnoe - lane Semnadtsati (1B) - lane. Rechepsta (1A) – dr. B. Dukka - trans. Ayulyu (1A) – b. Belaya – b.b. Psysh – trans. Eaglet (1B) – b. Eaglet - b. Sofia – Taulu glade – lane. Sofia Sedlo (n/k, rad) – r. Sofia - village Arkhyz – Nevinnomyssk – Moscow
Passed local obstacles
Pass n/k rad
1 (Sofia saddle)
Pass 1A
4 (Fedoseeva + Agur Yuzhny, Mylgval, Rechepsta, Ayulyu)
Pass 1B
2 (Seventeen Yuzhny, Eaglet)
Maximum height
3039 (Semnadtsati lane, according to GPS)
The route was approved by the MCC MGCTK on June 26, 2013, consisting of: R.Z. Deyanov, V.V. Arsenin, A.I. Khoroshilov.
2. LIST OF TRIP PARTICIPANTS|
Full Name |
Year of birth |
Responsibilities in the group |
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Varenikov Stanislav Razmikovich |
Supervisor |
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Golubinsky Andrey Vladimirovich |
Remmaster |
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Lomakina Irina Yurievna |
Financier |
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Novikov Nikolay Viktorovich |
Photographer |
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Rogulina Maria Anatolyevna |
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Erkhova Anna Vladimirovna |
3.1.Declared
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Dates |
Route sections |
Km km*1.2 |
Travel methods |
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Nevinnomyssk – Lunnaya glade – ascent towards Fedoseev lane above the forest border |
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m.s. - approach to Fedoseev lane |
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Per Fedoseeva (1A, 3020) - lane. Agur (1A, 2970) - Mylgval lane (1A, 2860) |
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Lane Semnadtsati Yu. (1 B, 3000) - approach under the lane. Kyzylchuk |
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Kyzylchuk lane (1B, 3150) - approach to Chilik lane |
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Chilik lane (1A, 2890) - b. Rechepsta – d.r. Dukka |
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approach under the lane Eaglet |
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lane Eaglet (1B, 3000) - born Eaglet - village Sofia - Taulu glade |
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Glade Taulu – Sophia Sedlo Lane (n/k, 2640) – Glade Taulu (radial exit) |
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glade Taulu - b. Arkhyz - Nevinnomyssk |
3.2. Alternate route sections:
· after the lane Seventeen – per. Rechepsta (1A, 3000) – b. Rechepsta – dr. Dukka (instead of Kyzylchuk lane and Chilik lane)
· instead of lane Eaglet (1B,3000) – lane. Karajash (1A, 2960)
· refuse to pass the lane. Eaglet, descending from the river. Belaya down the road Psysh
· refuse radial access to the lane. Sophia Saddle (n/k, 2640)
3.3.Changing the route and its reasons
Change: refused to pass the lane. Kyzylchuk 1B and lane. Chilik 1A, replacing them lane. Rechepsta 1A (the first of the backup options).
Reason: loss of time due to poor health of one of the participants at the very beginning of the hike, as well as weather conditions
Explanation: after the train, one of the participants felt a little cold. But a slight malaise plus poor sleep at night (the train was supposed to arrive at 2:25, but was more than 5 hours late, having changed the route due to a railway accident), led to the fact that after 20 minutes of a gentle climb, Nikolai got a fever. temperature. The ascent was stopped and camp was set up. Antipyretics, gargling and sleep brought down the temperature and led to an improvement in the condition in the evening (36.9). On the morning of July 9, the temperature was 37.2, which gave some hope, but in the evening the temperature again rose above 38. On the morning of the 10th patient, they were taken to the village. Arkhyz (more details in the doctor’s report). Given the daily deterioration of the weather in the afternoon (fog, limited visibility), “eating” the spare day of the first part of the route essentially even before it began, insufficient acclimatization of the group, it was decided to shorten the first part of the route, replacing the Kyzylchuk (1B) and Chilik (1A) passes with the pass. Rechepsta (1A). Thus, there was time to confidently complete the second part of the route, and with a recovered participant joining. There were no other route changes.
3.4. Actual trek plan
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Dates |
Route sections |
Km km*1.2 |
Travel methods |
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Nevinnomyssk - Lunnaya glade - rise towards Fedoseev Lane - a large clearing a kilometer above Lunnaya glade on the right bank of the stream |
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A forced day. Radial exit-walk-reconnaissance under a rock tooth |
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m.s. - approach to Fedoseev Lane (parking above a rocky tooth) |
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Per Fedoseeva (1A, 3025) - lane. Agur (1A, 2970) - Mylgval lane (1A, 2860) |
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Lane Semnadtsati Yu. (1 B, 3000) - approach under the lane. Rechepsta |
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Rechepsta lane (1A,) - b. Rechepsta – d.r. Dukka |
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b.b. Dukkah - approach under the lane. Ayulu |
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lane Ayulyu (1A, 2890) - born Psysh |
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approach under the lane Eaglet |
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lane Orlyonok (1B, 3000) - lake under the lane. Eaglet |
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lake under the lane Eaglet - b. Eaglet - village Sofia - Taulu glade |
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Polyana Taulu - Glacier farm - lane Sophia sedlo (n/k, 2640) - village. Arkhyz (radial exit) |
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Pos. Arkhyz – Nevinnomyssk - |
Total: 100.1 km
ROUTE SCHEME
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07/10-11/2013 – plans for 2 days: approach to the pass - Per Fedoseeva (1A, 3025) - lane. Agur (1A, 2970) - Mylgval lane (1A, 2860)
according to classifier 1A
according to the catalog of passes of TC "Vestra" 1A
upon passing 1A
according to classifier 2890
according to the catalog of passes of TC "Vestra" 2890
GPS coordinates
Grassy-talus character
Orientation northwest
Classifier number 3.3.1
Location in the Gabulu Range
Connects the river Dukku and R. White
Required equipment Trekking poles
A note was taken from TC "Strizhament" Stavropol, Bunich,
14 - 15.07.2013 – day plan: per. Ayulyu (1A, 2890) - born Psysh
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We start moving just above the bridge at the confluence of the Malaya Dukka and Bolshaya Dukka rivers.
Our immediate goal is the Gabulu ridge, Ayulu pass.
The weather deteriorates: light rain begins, but it is warm and stuffy.
We start moving (the path to our pass is obvious): first we go along the dirt road d. B. Dukka, after 25 minutes we make a short stop right on the road. Next, the dirt road turns into a cattle trail. The trail goes along gentle grassy slopes of forbs, rhododendron bushes and islands of crooked birch forest. After another 30-35 minutes we reach a clearing near the water and make another stop. The sun is coming out, people are trying to dry the clothes they washed the day before. Here we cross several small tributary streams on stones and move further along the left bank of the river. B. Dukka. So, with another stop (in a clearing near grazing horses), we reach a madder rampart, blocking our path, from which the river flows. Big Dukkah. Before going up we take a break. On the right, as we move, we can see the ascent to the Dukka Pass. We climb in zigzags along the path, pass sections of the middle moraine, and move to the left of the B. Dukka stream. At the top of the moraine levee is the magnificent Lake Seven Colors. The lake really lives up to its name: it greets us with azure, and the play of the sun’s rays makes it either slightly purple or dark blue... The lake simply fascinates with its iridescence and depth...
We cross the stream flowing from the lake (here on the shore of the lake good places for parking), we go around the lake clockwise and in a small grassy clearing among huge boulders we get up for lunch (under the moraine lintel blocking the valley)
By the lake on the left and above it there are places for tents, water from the stream, or you can take it from the lake.
The weather is magnificent: clear, sunny, warm.
We have lunch, it’s about two o’clock in the afternoon, lunch is hot (with soup!).
The instructor decides to rest a little after lunch (people are drying things, basking in the sun), setting a departure time.
From Lake Seven-colored, the path to the Ayulyu pass lies, as it were, along the “steps” of the valley.
From the lunch spot we return a little back along the lake and begin to climb the first step of the valley, along the slope, along the left bank of the stream. We walk along a clear, good path along a grassy slope. 20. The slope flattens out and we are on the first “step”, where two small lakes are located.
The instructor decides to look for a place to spend the night on this step. We go around the lakes counterclockwise and set up camp on the shore of the second one in a large grassy clearing.
The clearing is very picturesque: a carpet of soft grass, a lake with small tongues of snow on the opposite shore, and endless mountain ridges... In the evening, the landscape is decorated with a pinkish sky with a slight haze...
We set up camp, the guards are preparing dinner (we take water from a stream a little higher up the slope).
In the evening the sun goes away, a little cool, but no rain, clear.
After dinner free time: people are communicating, the instructor is going on reconnaissance towards the pass.
Lights out early, at the beginning of ten.
It was a “shock” day, we gained more than 700 m vertically..
At night it is quite cool, damp and foggy. The sky was starry, but overcast.
Around two o'clock in the morning a terrible thunderstorm began, strong wind. The thunderclaps were quite far away, but with every minute the thunderstorm was getting closer and closer... The thunderstorm subsides, but it rains all night.
It was raining in the morning, so the supposed rise at 5.00 did not happen.
We got up around half past six when the rain stopped.
We had breakfast and got ready
The weather has cleared up: cloudless, sunny, warm!!!
We left: we pass beyond the lake and begin to climb along a fairly gentle moraine ridge to the next step of the valley. Next we pass an area of large rock fragments (large moraine).
The walk is quite interesting due to the variety of terrain, and the weather is wonderful!
There is no clear path, but the path is quite clear. Next we pass a section of large scree (a rest stop here), we come out to small lakes connected by a stream - this is like the upper step of the valley before the pass. We cross the stream and go around the second lake counterclockwise along the shore in the snow.
Our pass is already visible. The pass takeoff is simple, gentle grassy scree.
We go out to the Ayulyu pass, the saddle of the pass is wide, grassy and scree, you can put up tents, there is water in the lake.
From the pass there is a view of the Arkasar ridge, you can see Lake Belorechenskoye, you can see Mount Pshish, etc. Psysh, or rather everything is visible through a light haze of clouds....
The tour is immediately noticeable: a crowbar with tied rags and a toy car on it is stuck...
We take pictures/write a note, eat another bar of chocolate, take a group photo.
Having rested at the pass, we begin the descent to Lake Belorechenskoye, then to the village. White
Along the snowfield directly below the pass (column 20-25) and the middle scree we reach the lake, go around it clockwise and come out onto a grassy ledge (hill), along which we descend steeply. Next we walk along the grassy scree slope on the left side of the valley, a clear path gradually emerges.
We walk briskly, with rare and short rests, the weather is clear and sunny! The trail leads us to a stream, where we take a break, then we move along the path along the stream. We pass an area with tall grass and faded rhododendron bushes, where the trail becomes somewhat lost. Further, the trail smoothly comes out onto the flattening of the valley - a slightly swampy meadow. We walk along a birch bridge across the stream and in the shade of young birch trees we get up for lunch (snack). Even though we stopped on the bank of a stream, we didn’t drink the water because... this is clearly a place for livestock grazing (corrals have been set up).
After a snack we continue moving: first small area plowed fields with weeds, a patch of tall grass, then we enter the forest area. The deciduous forest gives way to a dense coniferous forest (we walk along the path along the Belaya River, the river disappears in the canyon much lower down the slope),
Walking through the forest, on the one hand, is very pleasant - shade, slight coolness, the smell of pine needles, and on the other hand, the path goes along a fairly steep slope, washed out after the rains, sometimes blocked by fallen trees. You have to walk along the forest path with caution, but no one avoids falls along this stretch of the path...
After about 40 minutes of walking through the forest, the trail takes us to a dirt road, here the Belaya River cuts the road, we cross the river along the bridge and go along the so-called Psyshskaya trail - that is, now we are going along the river. Psysh. On the way we meet tent camps (there are many cozy clearings for tents) and collect vitamins (strawberries).
After 20-25 minutes we go to the border outpost (the territory of the outpost is very well-groomed), hand over our passports and group pass for verification. After passing the check, after 15 minutes, we continue to move along the path along the shore upstream of the river. Psysh, towards the hanging bridge. About 15 minutes later we are at the bridge, the bridge is half destroyed by the flood. It is impossible to wade... There is no information about the availability of another place for crossing upstream.
The instructor examines the “scale of the disaster” and decides to pull the railing rope for insurance and cross over the remains of the bridge. We take out ropes, put on gazebos and helmets. The instructor crosses to the target shore first (without a backpack), belayed from the starting shore, and secures the end of the rope to the ruins of a wooden structure. The group begins to cross one by one, we pull out our backpacks. Everyone gathers on the target shore, we put away our equipment and decide to move on in search of a place to spend the night, because... It’s already about seven in the evening.... The crossing took about an hour.
It is impossible to walk along the right bank of the river, there seems to be a weak path at first, but it goes into the river. We go into the forest, make our way through the bushes and rubble of trees parallel to the shore. About half an hour later we find a path that leads us to an abandoned logging clearing with a dilapidated barn-hut. Here you can get up for the night. The clearing looks sad: a hut, pieces of equipment, garbage...
The instructor decides to return to the clearing with the hut and stop there for the night. We set up camp right next to the road in a grassy clearing. We have dinner at dusk, and a light rain begins. Lots of mosquitoes and midges.
At night it is warm, damp, rain falls all night with short breaks.
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Exactly a week before Sergei Lepyokhin (my permanent assistant) and I fly to Irkutsk. A week before the start of the New Life, which we had been dreaming of for so long, which we were waiting for and bringing closer in every possible way.
We are going despite all the failures that befell us! Hopes for help from the Golden Ribbon studio were completely dashed. Zhenya Golovnya stopped even verbally fighting for our film. She is tired of the endless “failures” with Goskino and other supposed sources of funding. I can't blame her for that. But she gave up and left us to our fate. And, apart from one-way tickets and the film that they promise to buy this week, we don’t expect any help from her. I doubt that she has the right to be called a “film producer” in this situation...
THEY stay HERE, no matter how difficult and difficult it is for them, and WE go THERE - without funds, on our own, begging money from friends and saving as much as possible. (Even without paying accident insurance.)
And yet a miracle happened! After all, we, despite everything, including common sense, let's go to the Sayan Mountains! Once again I remember the lines from Fedoseev: “...We are setting off on another journey. And we can neither predict nor avert upcoming events...” These are not the exact words of Fedoseev, but this is their meaning.
We begin New life! And I sincerely hope that it will be interesting, rich, and fruitful. May our good Angels and the spirit of Grigory Fedoseev help us! Amen!
After completely crazy days of getting ready and preparing, I have only one desire - to sleep. Somehow this hasn't worked out yet.
Yesterday we went with Volodya Baytsev and Nadya Borsuk to my editing room. I showed them there pieces of filmed material about Fedoseev (daughter Vera Grigorievna and niece Irina Petrovna). Then we went to the “Golden Ribbon” to buy lighting equipment that we will take with us on the expedition.
Now is the time to briefly talk about our group. To be honest, I myself am somewhat surprised that exactly “such” a team has come together. The ways of the Lord are inscrutable, so what... I’m not saying that everyone is “some kind of wrong people”, I just never thought that I would go to the Sayans with just such a group!
So, Sergey Lepyokhin, whom I already mentioned, is my main assistant since the film “Yuma”. The fact is that for twenty years now I’ve been making all my films with Viktor Fedchenkov, my great friend and colleague. But it’s already difficult for him to go on such trips, his age is not small - he’s already in his seventh decade, and therefore lately his functions have been performed by Seryoga. He is an interesting, unique person, but most importantly, a true professional in cinema.
Viktor Mikhailenko is also not a newcomer. We have known each other since 1993 and have already done more than one documentary. He performed in various “roles”: he was an actor, an assistant director, and a journalist, but recently he became interested in photography, and he began to get a little carried away. But, one way or another, Victor is a true friend, with him “more than a pound of salt has been eaten.”
The other two team members are traveling with me for the first time. We met Nadya Borsuk and Volodya Baytsev during an expedition to Transbaikalia in 2005. Nadya was only 25 years old, and our meeting took place under rather difficult circumstances. Then the aforementioned Vitya Mikhailenko, while taking his next photo, flew into a waterfall and broke his leg, and I had to follow the rescuers and, with the help of a helicopter and a bunch of wonderful people who still live in Siberia, pull him out of the impassable wilds of Udokan, where the accident occurred. Among the rescuers was Nadya Borsuk, who happened to be nearby with a group of tourists. Then we corresponded with her on the Internet (she is originally from the Belarusian city of Grodno), and Nadya responded to my offer to participate in the Sayan expedition. As a result, she will become my closest assistant, a real devoted “squire”, together with whom we will climb to the most difficult filming points.
And Volodya Baytsev, our fifth participant, was also then part of a rescue team in Transbaikalia. I was struck then by his amazing adaptability to the difficult taiga life, his ability to overcome with dignity any situations that often happen in nomadic life. Now that I am reprinting these lines, I am sincerely sorry that our relationship did not work out on this expedition. It's hard to say who is more to blame for this, but as they say, what happened was what happened...
At 6 o'clock in the morning Seryoga arrived in his car, we loaded the prepared things, picked up Victor and by 8-00, as planned, we were in the Luggage Department of the Kazansky Station.
Actually, the “Luggage compartments” of our wonderful Russian railway– this is the subject of my undiminished admiration and bewilderment!
You can scrape together money for a movie, prepare equipment and uniforms, assemble a worthy group, you can do a lot of things until you encounter His Majesty “ Luggage compartment"! Here, months of preparation will go to waste if, for example, the person who has the untouchable right of ownership of the keys to the storage room, in which your luggage has been lying for the third day, does not come to work EXACTLY TODAY... And that’s all! Even if you gnaw the lock with your teeth, shout to anyone that in three hours the helicopter you paid for six months ago will take off - nothing can be done, since this is a LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT!!! (A similar story happened to us during the first Sayan expedition in 2004.) Or suddenly everyone will be in place: both you and the worker who has the keys to the “holy of holies.” But for some reason they took your luggage and unloaded it from the train halfway. Why and who? The question will be unanswered, because THESE affairs are managed by... you understand - the LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT (So, or almost so it happened this time - but more on that a little later.)
As a result, the process of sending luggage took about 5 hours in total. This despite the fact that we were the first (!) to sew up the bags of luggage ourselves and load them into the baggage car ourselves, located somewhere in the wilds of the dead ends of the Kazan station! It seemed to us then that it was even better - after all, we saw that our bales were locked in the carriage... (How naive and gullible we still can be sometimes!)
The weight of our luggage was 255 kilograms. This led us to gloomy thoughts that if we add to this filming equipment, personal belongings and products that we plan to partially purchase in Nizhneudinsk, the total weight will exceed the mark of 400 kg. And this is already at least 6-7 horses! Will we have enough money for helicopter filming then?
However, we will decide all this on the spot with Zhenya Evtukhov, the owner of the site, with whom we have been closely communicating on the Internet for six months now and who kindly agreed to help us with the transfer to Tofalaria.
At 2 p.m., Volodya Baytsev and I were at my house and greedily devoured the breakfast Nadya had prepared.
And an hour later Seryoga Lepyokhin came to pick me up with his friend Sveta in a car, and we left for Domodedovo.
So far everything is going surprisingly well, I can’t even believe it (after so many ordeals in Moscow!) At 9 o’clock in the morning local time we were in Irkutsk at the airport terminal that is well known to me (just half a year ago I spent a total of more than 24 hours here when I was waiting for a connecting plane to Kirensk during an expedition based on the film “The City of Kirensk and Its Inhabitants”). True, Seryoga has already begun to “pay tribute” for our good affairs: on the plane he dropped his mobile phone. And since he only realized it after receiving his luggage, he decided not to make a nervous search. (By the way, this was already the second sacrifice - yesterday at Domodedovo I had to “gift” my favorite pocket knife, since I did not have time to remove it from my waist belt and put it in my luggage, and during the search a very principled girl took it away from me...) Looking ahead a little, I will say that we will have to make many more sacrifices on this expedition - numerous personal mugs, Japanese wristwatches, a walkie-talkie, a carbine... But first things first.
So, we are in Irkutsk! Directly from the airport, I called the director of the East Siberian Aerogeodetic Enterprise, Sergei Fedorovich Mazurov. He sent a car for us, and by about 11 o'clock we were with him.
1 day - 07/24/2016
Nevinnomyssk - Arkhyz village - t/s "Lunnaya Polyana" (organization of transportation at the confluence of the Arkhyz and Dukka rivers) - grassy slope on the border of the forest under the lane. Fedoseeva (1A)
At 3.15 in two cars we leave the Nevinnomyssk railway station, go to Cherkessk first to get border passes, then to Lunnaya Polyana. On the way, we registered with the Arkhyz PSO (we were assigned number 325, we discussed the planned route with the duty officer).
The development of the tourism component and the development of infrastructure are in full swing here, with construction all around. At 8.15 we stop between Lunar Glade and Romantic. T/B "Romantic" has several ski slopes, along which there are operating ski lifts and funiculars (Photo 1).
Photo 1. T/b “Romantic”.
Photo 2. View of the Fedoseev Pass (1A)
From below, across the crest of the Abishir-Ahuba ridge, our first lane is visible. Fedoseev (1A), named after the famous surveyor and writer Grigory Anisimovich Fedoseev (Photo 2).
While the responsible group is organizing a drop-off at the confluence of the Arkhyz and Dukka rivers (left with the guard under the bridge under construction), the remaining team members change their shoes and prepare to leave.
At 8.55 we set out on the route in full force. We deliberately conduct the first running section gently and not intensively, in order to give the guys the opportunity to look around and get used to the unnatural weight behind them after a day and a half of railway idleness.
At 10.00 we organize breakfast (altitude 1717 m). We stand right on an empty ski slope, at the confluence of two streams. On the right side there is a route of an active funicular (“cable car”), music is playing. According to the workers, if you follow the tracks in its direction, the trail to the pass begins from there, so we constantly keep it in mind.
Photo 3. Ski slopes t/b "Romantic"
The ascent on the slopes has a steepness of about 20 degrees, periodically increasing to 30, then leveling out again. Frequent artificial ditches add additional difficulties (Photo 3).
There is an alternative option for ascent - a dirt road (Photo 4), but it is very often used by workers in Kamaz trucks and construction vehicles. But skiing along the ski slopes is more comfortable and is an excellent adaptive training at the beginning of a hike (Photo 5).
We didn’t go up to the cable car station itself, we stayed to the left, came out onto a construction dirt road, and a shepherd’s cat was visible at the top. A shepherd on horseback said that from the final station there is also a road that leads to a drinking stream to a dead end (a pipe stretches along the road), if we climb the path from this stream to the left, we will find parking places and a traversing path to the pass .
At 14.55 we reached the stream and parking areas. We are preparing lunch. Here we set up camp for the night. We carry out reconnaissance: there is a path towards the pass (on the left below the parking lot).
We spent the night above a stream, the sites were excellent, the places were beautiful, just what a beginner needed for the first night in the mountains (Photo 6).
Day 2 - 07/25/2016
Traverse of a grassy slope – a bunch of passes 1A:
lane Fedoseeva (1A) + lane. Agur (1A) – lake 2353 m.
In the morning, the general rise was at 6.00, no one had to be forced, many were already helping the people on duty: they brought water, put on the burners - the opportunity to get up early is an opportunity to see the dawn sun, gray mountains, as if covered with silk.
Due to the built-up ski slopes and with the ongoing construction of the territory, I don’t see the point in making radial exits and marking time - there’s no pleasure in it. The group is in excellent condition, the guys are increasingly looking towards the pass and are eager to fight. We decide to get closer to the pass.
Departure at 8.00. The trail traverses to the left from the parking lot, but after some time it dissolves into a sieve of goat trails. The movement is carried out at equal time intervals: 40 minutes of travel, 10 minutes of rest. The pace of the group is jagged, tempo leaders immediately emerge, whom the rest begin to chase, while those lagging behind, on the contrary, begin to run out of steam and stretch out faster. Therefore, a quick decision was made to shorten the gaps and shuffle the group members, appointing trail runners and those responsible for finding the trail. Thus, even the most frisky “moose” of the group found a use.
The path that the shepherd spoke about does not lead to the pass itself, but goes as a traverse in its direction (Photo 8). When all hints of the path ended, we decided to storm the grassy slope in a zigzag “head-on”. We set our sights on the stream, at the foot of which we found a clear path marked by tourists (on the left side as you go). The climb up the narrow path is steep, we walked in helmets, in a dense group.
The ascent was made, focusing on the rocks and the stream falling through them (Photo 9). Beyond the stream, the slope flattens out and after some time a mountain pass appears. The saddle of the pass is quite wide; from a certain angle, the pass tour is even noticeable.
Just before taking off to the pass there is a small open plateau where you can stop for a rest (Photo 10).
There are two clearly visible paths leading to the Fedoseev Pass itself, on the left and on the right, the climb is not difficult, the group overcomes the climb at a free pace and soon basks in the sun, and I take my first pass note - a note from the MSTU tourist club. Bauman dated July 24, 2016 ( see Appendix 1).
From the saddle of the pass you can clearly see Lake Turye, but it is periodically covered in fog. There is a good path on the right leading down to the lake. There is a path on the left, which forks, but eventually converges and leads to the lane. Agur (Photo 12).
We do not remove helmets and trekking poles - the slope is snowy and rocky, quite steep. The snowfield under the Agur pass stretches to the very bottom, so the group was informed about the importance of coordinated actions, and also received a short briefing on the technique of movement and self-restraint with sticks (Photo 14).
Judging by the descriptions of previous reports, the snowfield under the lane. From year to year Agur appears and then completely melts away.
Photo11. Group on the lane. Fedoseeva (1A)
Photo 14. Moving through the snowfield in a dense group
We decide not to waste precious time and clear weather and traverse towards the Agur pass. From the circus, which is located under the pass, you can climb to the saddle, located in the northern part of the fort of the main ridge.
Old traces of the passing group are visible on the snowfield, but the traces are not fresh, which is confirmed by a note from the St. Petersburg State University (KTU) tourist club dated July 23, 2016 found on the pass tour ( see Appendix 1).
Agur Pass is a non-standard pass, rather a crevice, quite narrow, but interesting for beginners (Photo 15).
On the descent, someone gets acquainted with the middle scree for the first time and learns to place their feet correctly and identify “live” stones (Photo 16). The path to the descent is marked by tourists, while descending we notice two more lakes, the one closer is cloudy and brown, the one further away is blue. The closest one is most likely rainy. The distant lake is very beautiful and unusual. The guys are delighted.
On the descent from Agur you can see excellent sites, both above the lakes and near them. The most decent and well-equipped parking lot is located to the left of the small lake (towards the Mylgval lane): with a fireplace and massive boulders protecting from the wind.
Judging by the large number of household items from previous groups (a towel, rubber boots, even some food), this place is quite popular, although capricious in terms of weather: there is a feeling that things were left in a hurry rather than out of absent-mindedness.
At 16.00 we decide to stop here for lunch. After lunch, everyone is determined to take the team to the end, but the weather suddenly deteriorates, thick fog descends and it begins to rain.
We put on raincoats and quickly set up camp. As soon as we set up our tents and hid, the fog cleared and the rain receded. Nevertheless, we decide to stay here and postpone the pass until tomorrow, since we are already ahead of the curve.
At 17.30 we go for reconnaissance towards the pass, we find a vertical cave “Sheer Mine” and two karst sinkholes similar to it, lined with stones along the edges and with accumulated snow at the bottom. The places here are unusual, pleasant, intuitive and marked by tourists - perfect place for walks and activities with beginners.
On a non-steep snowfield we conduct training sessions on the technique and tactics of moving on snowy slopes, as well as self-restraint techniques using an ice ax and trekking poles (Photo 19-20). After training, the guys had a blast skiing and throwing snowballs at each other. “Why does a tourist go to the mountains?” - I ask them. They are silent. “To have more fun during the summer!” We laugh merrily and go to the camp for dinner.
Day 3 - 07/26/2016
Per. Mylgval - lake. Kyafar - r. Kyafar –
river Western Kyafar (Kyzylchuk) - lake. Deep.
After reconnaissance the day before, they decided to combine the ascent to the pass with a small radial route to karst sinkholes and the marked “Otvesnaya Mine” cave.
At 8.35 we left the camp to the left side of the small lake. The path is not visible here, but at the bend you can see the tourists - there we go out onto a distinct path and first visit a mysterious cave with a vertical entrance (Photo 22).
The hitch at the rest stop was due to the loss of a GPS navigator, which was insidiously hidden in the awning of the tent and was not found immediately. But the climb to the pass took no more than ten minutes - the tour on the saddle was clearly visible, there is an excellent trail to the right of the rain lake (Photo 23).
At 9.40 we took a pass note from the TC MSTU. Bauman dated July 24, 2016( see Appendix 1), divided the pass chocolate among themselves and continued moving (Photo 24).
On the descent, the pass turned out to be not so friendly - medium, and then large scree, live stones, sharp drops (Photo 26). We saw two options for the path: on the right along the path, through the sheep's foreheads along the rocky slope, and on the left - along the large scree and through the snowfield above the lake (the path is marked by tourists). We chose the second option: traces of the previous group were visible on the snowfield. At the same time, an educational program was held on proper movement on the already large scree using trekking poles and her own weight (Nastya began to lag far behind, timid in front of the shaky scree stones).
Photo 26.Descent from the lane Mylgval (1A)
After the snowfield we go out onto the trail (cow path) on the right and begin the long descent down (Photo 27).
The trail gets lost, but we find it by the smell :) When the view of Lake Kyafar opens at the bottom left (Photo 28), a clear path appears, traversing down to the place where the Kyafar River flows into the lake.
At the mouth we have lunch, collect eagle feathers, wade across the stream and on the left side continue down the path in the valley of the Kyafar River (Photo 29), then Kyzylchuk. At the fork of the rivers, we turn left and begin the ascent with a gradual gain in altitude (Photo 30).
The state of the group is surprising and inspiring - everyone, without exception, is determined to complete the program to the maximum, i.e. walk to Lake Glubokoe, thereby saving a whole day of hiking.
Photo 27. Descent from the lane. Mylgval (1A) to Lake Kyafar
On the way we meet a descending group from the Vestra tourist club under the leadership of Lyubov Starostina - the guys were coming from a neighboring pass, but saw Lake Glubokoe and crossed the stream coming out of it.
The long, monotonous climb forced the group to stretch out a lot (Photo 30). As soon as we reached the circus, we took a right (the landmark is a stream coming from above) and came out onto a path in rhododendrons, marked by tourists.
We had dinner and spent the night near Lake Glubokoe (Photo 31). Sites for tents and drinking water There is.
