A short walk through the old Riga. Walking around Riga: what you must see

The route “along the paths” of the Middle Ages, or in search of adventure, knights and romance

“It was a strange world. Unstable, but harmonious in its own way. Lithuanians, Letts, Samogites, Estonians, Russians, Lithuanians, Livs, Yatvingians, Semigalians lived here... some disappeared long ago, others live here to this day. The Russian princes along the Daugava - Western Dvina - collected tribute from the surrounding tribes, fought with them, often became related to the Lithuanians and Livs... And it is unknown how the fate of the Baltic states would have developed further if German missionaries had not landed here, at the mouth of the Daugava, for which the knights came. In 1201, the energetic Bishop Albert founded the city of Riga, the Order of St. Mary, or the Bearers of the Sword, arose, which systematically conquered tribes and peoples, baptized pagans - those who did not want to be baptized died, those who agreed became a slave. And the cities where the Russian princes ruled - Kukernois, Gersike, Zamoshye, then Yuryev - were taken by the Germans one after another. They couldn't unite..."

Kir Bulychev, “The Kidnapping of the Sorcerer”

Riga is a mysterious and strange city, and at the same time recognizable at every step. Walking along the narrow streets and looking at the bright facades of medieval houses, you now and then remember your favorite films (we will go through the route “Starring Riga, or Through the places of military glory of Standartenführer Stirlitz” in just a few pages). Old city Rigi (Vecriga) is small compared to such beloved tourist cities as Prague or Paris, but those who have visited here once usually return. What is to blame for this: the famous Riga balsam, medieval streets shrouded in fog, or legends that cover every corner - we will try to figure it out together...

I propose to begin our acquaintance with the city with an excursion in the footsteps of half-forgotten medieval architects and noble knights. Although, perhaps, their nobility is the same myth as the midnight moans of lovers walled up in the walls of the Swedish Gate. We will have to find out about this in the very near future!

The most convenient place to start your walk around the city is from Riga railway station. Firstly, it is symbolic: this is where most visitors first set foot on Riga soil (the train from Moscow to Riga is an overnight one - this way you do not waste precious daytime time). Secondly, from this point it is quite easy to get to the Old Town, where we are heading. So, upon exiting the platform, you walk to the station building, on the left side of which there is an underground passage, which will lead us to the Old Town (it starts literally across the busy road from the station and the large Stockmann store). Then you go straight, focusing on the tall, sharp spiers of the churches of St. Peter and the Dome Cathedral, dominating the low houses. If you get a little lost in the narrow streets of Riga, don’t worry: local population for the most part, they speak Russian and they will always help you find the right road (the alleged hostility of Latvians towards Russians is a myth, nothing more).

On Town Hall Square (Ratslaukums) on the left side, in a beautiful red building decorated with statues, on the ground floor there is a travel agency where you can get a free map and several booklets about the city. Now you can look around... After the end of World War II, Town Hall Square was a ruin, and both armies (Soviet and German) actively denied their role in the destruction. Actually, now it doesn’t matter anymore, because in Soviet time the square was surrounded by rather featureless buildings, some of which have survived to this day. The square began to be restored only in 1996, when the townspeople began preparing for the celebration of the 800th anniversary of Riga.

Museum of Occupation in a gloomy black rectangular building divides the area into two parts: the one closer to the river, with a monumental monument to the Latvian riflemen in the center, represents the “legacy of the Soviet regime” - gloomy buildings, the one closer to St. Peter’s Church - the restored appearance of medieval Riga .

In the medieval part of the square the center is decorated with Roland statue with a sword and shield. They say that such a thing once decorated almost every Hanseatic city. This is a copy, the original is in the Riga History Museum. In the summer, during the harvest festival, he is dressed up in an apron and a wreath of autumn flowers and fruits.

In front of Roland stands a building restored at the end of the last century Town Halls(Ratsnams). It was in the Town Hall building, in the Council Hall, that the magistrate gathered, who made important decisions for the city, standards of weights and measures were also located here, and dishonest merchants or artisans were tried here. At the entrance to the Town Hall there was a pillory where the guilty were chained; during executions, a platform was placed in the center of the square where heads were chopped off. During the holidays, noisy fairs were held on Town Hall Square. At the monument to Roland there was a well from which the townspeople took water. From the balcony above the entrance, trumpeters read out the decrees of the city fathers, and during celebrations, chairs were placed here for members of the magistrate. Alas, the Town Hall has not retained its medieval appearance; now it looks like it did in the 18th century, but it looks nice, as does the ultra-modern glass house standing next to it, where several fashionable shops are located - it is given the shape of a medieval Gothic house.

Of course, the decoration of the square is House of the Blackheads(Melngalvju names, Rātslaukums, 6), inside of which the city travel agency is located, and the outside is so beautiful that it takes your breath away: stunning brickwork, statues on the roof and walls, intricate carvings... It’s even more interesting to look at this building illuminated at night, I advise you to set aside time for this one evening.

Blackheads in Riga were young single merchants who chose as their patron the Christian martyr (and former Roman legionnaire) Saint Mauritius, as you might guess, a Moor (his sculptural image is easy to find on the facade of the house). Here transactions were concluded, receptions were held, standard measures (lengths, weights, etc.) were stored here. Having married, the Black-headed merchants moved to the Big Guild (read about the Big and Small Guilds in the itinerary “ Tour of funny monuments, or Take Riga with humor»).

The house, built in the Dutch Renaissance style in 1334, was considered the most beautiful building Riga, and, in my opinion, still is. They say that even the Russian tsars and many nobles of Europe did not hesitate to attend the festivities organized in the House of Blackheads (the guest book contains the signatures of the German Chancellor Bismarck, Empress Catherine, Tsar Alexander I, and, in small details, German and Russian dukes, counts, barons ), Catherine the Great even gave her portrait to the cheerful and hospitable merchants as a sign of special favor. In a special room on the second floor in the Middle Ages there was a famous collection of silver, as well as gifts from the guild and all sorts of curiosities, such as whale ribs or dinosaur bones, as well as a small library where, in addition to books, maps were kept. It is not known exactly where all this went after the war; only the silver was traced - it was taken to Germany in 1939. After the bombing during World War II, the House of the Blackheads was completely destroyed, and it was restored only in 2001, for the 800th anniversary of Riga.

Inset: For those who like to criticize the Soviet system and its allegedly careless attitude towards the Latvian, in particular, cultural heritage, I will inform you that, for example, in Germany there are a lot of cities where the medieval center stood in ruins until the 90s of the last century. The problem is not in the system, but in the budget of the country or city - for many years there was simply no money for large-scale restoration. But I will not deny that the capitals of the former Soviet republics have clearly “improved” after they became the capitals of independent states.

Behind the House of the Blackheads begins a sad, half-abandoned quarter: many houses are being renovated, and from many only medieval facades remain, while inside there are pits with construction waste. Opposite one of these buildings is a synagogue, near which for some reason a policeman is on duty in a patrol car. The entire area around the synagogue was Jewish before the war, but during the war the Germans herded the entire population of the area into this very synagogue and burned it alive. But it was the Soviet troops who were later called the occupiers... In the same area we saw a funny house: broken windows in it were replaced by children's drawings.

If you walk from the House of Blackheads to the left (if you stand facing the entrance) to St. Peter's Church, and, without crossing the road, glance to the right, then at the corner streets Grecinieku (Greciniekuiela) And Kungu(Kunguiela) you will see another local attraction - house of the merchant Menzendorf(Mencendorfa nams), built in 1695. For more than two centuries there was the oldest pharmacy in the city. Once upon a time there was a large trading room inside, where bottles, jars and flasks stood on numerous shelves. They stored not only medicines for various ailments, but also spices that merchants brought from exotic countries, cosmetics, soap, candles, gunpowder, and even ink. Under the pharmacy, extensive wine cellars have been preserved, where pharmacists stored wine and alcohol used to prepare medicines and cosmetics.

It was in this building in 1762 that the Riga pharmacist Abraham Kuntze invented the legendary Riga balsam(which locals still say to this day is a medicine, not a drink, and consume it with blackcurrant juice). According to the author of the balm, it helped against two dozen ailments, including frostbite, toothache, migraines, insect and snake bites, and even dislocations, sprains and fractures, and the balm healed dangerous wounds in just 6 days. It is not known how quickly this balm healed fractures, but it became a very successful souvenir - it is still the most popular Latvian brand, sharing the palm only with Dzintars cosmetics. The house received its current name from the name of the subsequent owner, merchant August Menzendorf (1884). After the war, the house stood abandoned for a long time, and only during the restoration in 1982 were they discovered on its walls and vaults. medieval frescoes which can be seen by visiting Menzendorf Museum, open in this building.

Museum site in the pharmacy buildinghttp://www.mencendorfanams.com/index-lv.php

Check the museum's website for the schedule of exhibitions and concerts.

The entrance ticket costs 1 lat, each exhibition costs another 0.5 lat.

Inset: Having tasted the “Miracle Balm,” Catherine II was delighted. This is how the glory of Riga Balsam began. Another German, named Johann Wolfgang Goethe, called the healing drink the elixir of youth and forever glorified it in the brilliant “Faust.” The balm contains more than fifty components from carefully selected herbs, fruits, berries, flowers, oils, juices and roots. This black, viscous and very aromatic drink has amazing tonic and healing properties. On a “signature Riga” autumn evening, when it’s chilly, foggy and damp, you simply need a signature Riga cocktail: mix one part of blackcurrant juice with two parts of black balsam and heat on the stove. Do you feel it?

On the adjacent square stands the tallest building of medieval Riga (123 m) and, until recently, the tallest building of wooden construction in Europe. This St. Peter's Church(Rīgas Sv. Pētera baznīca, address: Skarnu iela, 19). The first mention of the city magistrate's church, already under construction, dates back to 1209, so construction began several years earlier. The magistrate of a prosperous Hanseatic city sought to ensure that his church was the very best, so that it would not be ashamed in front of its neighbors: the tower - the tallest, the nave - the largest, the frescoes - the best masters of its time, the bell - the most ringing. No expense was spared, and there was plenty of it, which is why the church turned out to be impressive. True, in subsequent centuries it was rebuilt several times, for example, in the 15th century it acquired Gothic features, and wood and white limestone were gradually replaced by fashionable red brick. Around the same time, the church was significantly expanded by adding side naves; a century later, it was given the features of the then fashionable Baroque architectural style, and now it has the same appearance that it could boast of back in the sixteenth century.

Inset: « European cities reminds me of Riga. Naturally, most of them are in Germanic, Protestant, Gothic places. I look with excitement at portside warehouses with characteristic beams for winches in Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Hamburg, Stockholm, Bergen, Oslo. … Riga has always been … a beautiful, at times rich, at times important … city.” Peter Weil "Genius of the place"

The townspeople were unlucky with the church tower: built at the end of the 15th century, it suddenly collapsed in March 1666, killing several dozen people under its rubble. Ten years later, the restored tower burned down. Towards the end of the 17th century, after many years of new construction, master Rupert Bindenschuh created a unique wooden structure for a new baroque tower. True, a sad fate awaited it: in 1721, the tower burned down again, and with it the Dutch chimes, which cost the city treasury 8 thousand thalers - an astronomical sum! After 22 years (during which the townspeople probably chipped in for a new tower), the carpenter Vulbern got to work and created a 121-meter-high tower topped with a golden cockerel. At the end of his work, Vulbern climbed to the very top of the tower, was carried away by the golden cockerel (in fact, it is the size of a large horse), took out a bottle of wine he had stored in advance and drained his glass so that the tower would stand forever. Having drunk, he threw the crystal glass down, and lo and behold, the glass did not break! The fact that the glass fell from an incredible height was evidenced only by a small crack, and the fact that this story is not a tale was evidenced by the glass itself, stored in the Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation. During the bombing in 1941. The museum hall where the glass was kept was damaged, and a few days later a shell hit the tower - the omen came true. In 1970, the head of the repair work, Peteris Saulitis, climbed onto the unfinished spire, drank to the construction and also threw his glass down. The glass was shattered, but the tower was still intact. - its construction was completed in 1973. Some guides also tell the second version of the legend: the first glass broke into two parts, which meant that the church would stand for 200 years, and it stood for 220, day after day...

Before the Reformation, the church could boast of magnificent decoration: guild chapels decorated with sculptures, modeling and painting on the themes of the Old and New Testaments, an altar brought from Holland, even, they say, the famous Flemish tapestries. It survived a harsh time when the luxury of church decoration was not encouraged, only a unique wooden altar of an unusual design, around which interesting exhibitions were organized: either original works on ceramics, or photographs, or landscapes of Jurmala.

You can also take a special elevator to church tower, to levels 57 and 71 meters. (For the best observation decks in Riga, see the section “ Observation platforms of Riga, or Flying over the city»).

Observation deck of the tower of St. Peter's Church and exhibitions in the church

Address: Skarnu street ( Skarnu iela ) , 19

Height: 72 meters

How to get there: entrance through the cathedral, ticket office at the entrance, on the right. There is an elevator going up.

Entrance ticket price: 2 lats for adults, schoolchildren under 18 years old - 0.70 lats. Entrance to the exhibition costs 0.5 lats

Working hours and conditions: daily 10.00 - 17.00, except Monday.

Behind St. Peter's Church, on the left, you will see buildings attached to the walls Convention of Set(Konventa Seta). Once upon a time, a strict episcopal castle stood here, near the walls of which a monastery (convent) was founded - as a shelter and hospital for the poor, widows and orphans. Later, a beguinage was opened here, following the European model - a kind of “city within a city”, a women’s community, initially formed by the widows of the crusaders, who had to somehow survive in the harsh medieval world. The ladies settled separately, built houses nearby, surrounded them with a high wall, and lived there in solitude and often according to monastic canons. At the same time, they did not take monastic vows, that is, they had the opportunity to get married again. The wives of the crusaders were also accepted into the beguinage while their husbands were on a campaign (the campaign could last several years). If the husband returned home, he could leave the community and return to normal family life. Beguines were engaged in socially useful activities: they wove lace, cared for the sick and elderly, and raised orphans. The beguines were patronized by influential people - the local nobility, who gave money for the construction of the beguines and supported them financially. Unfortunately, the beguinage has not survived in Riga, because... Already from the 15th century, its buildings housed a monastery of tertiaries, and after its abolition, townspeople began to settle here, opening shops and workshops in the former houses of the beguines.

Inset: Most of the beguinages in Europe have been preserved in Belgium, a significant part of them are included in the list cultural heritage UNESCO. Now some of them house museums, some are nursing homes, and in some places people even seem to live (some of these beguinages are accessible to tourists, while others are closed to the public).

Now Konventa Seta is a real medieval quarter in the center of Riga, formed by small houses closely adjacent to each other, narrow streets paved with stone. You take a step into one of the arches that serves as the entrance - and you find yourself as if in another world, where even the air seems different, medieval, despite the fact that after the war there were ruins here and the buildings were abandoned until the 70s. The small buildings of the Seth Convention now house antique shops, cafes, and even a nice hotel. You can get here through one of four exits, but the main one, which is easiest to find, is located immediately behind St. Peter's Church - opposite Monument to the Bremen Town Musicians.

Go inside, walk a few steps forward - and look back. You will see the spire of the tower of St. Peter's Basilica, a cute little house with yellow walls and a high roof - a view that just begs to be photographed! Many artists who captured this view on their canvases probably thought the same way. Including Nicholas Roerich, who came to Riga in 1903.

Hidden in the buildings surrounding the Convent of Sete, on the side of St. Peter's Church, is a Gothic Church of St. George(Sv. Jura Baznica, Skarnu iela 10/20), the absence of a tower unmistakably reveals its age - the 13th century. The church was once a castle chapel, and Bishop Albert himself founded it. Inside the castle there were rooms of knighthood, the bishop's chambers, a council hall, and a reception hall - nothing except the chapel has survived. The energetic Bishop Albert attracted into the order people who were not so honest as they were spirited, and by the end of the 13th century this gang had so annoyed the inhabitants of the city that peaceful townspeople stormed the castle in 1297, dispersed the knights who were bothering the citizens with robbery, hanged those especially guilty, and the fortress They destroyed it, saving only the chapel. I suspect that the townspeople who destroyed the castle in 1297 were simply showing respect for religion. From the castle chapel and the remains of the meeting hall, they built the Church of St. George, which served until the Reformation (16th century), when it was turned into a warehouse, having previously destroyed everything inside that could be destroyed: sculptures, wall paintings, carved furniture. All silver and gold utensils were melted down for the needs of the magistrate.

For several centuries, merchants stored grain, hemp and leather here - the main goods that Riga traded. After the war, old furniture and things taken from bombed houses were stored here, but were of no use to anyone, and in the attics of both the chapel and the adjacent houses, local children played “war” (several people told me about this local residents, including young people aged 30-35). After 1991, when the houses had not yet been restored, the grown children looked for antiques among the junk and successfully sold them to the antique shops that were beginning to appear at that time. Today the chapel is located Museum of Applied Arts, where art exhibitions are held. It’s worth going inside if only to see the 13th-century Gothic interior with your own eyes.

Museum of Applied Arts, address: Skarnu iela 10/20

Entrance ticket - 3 lats. On Wednesdays, free admission for pensioners, disabled people, schoolchildren, and large families.

Adjacent to the Convent of Set on the right side is another church - St. John/Jan(Sv. Jana Baznica, address: Skarnu iela, 24) - made of bright red brick, with a stepped pediment and narrow Gothic windows. In 1234, Bishop Albert transferred his old residence with a chapel to the Dominican Order. In 1330, simultaneously with the foundation of the new Riga Castle on the banks of the Daugava, the church was rebuilt in the Gothic style, and the buttress arches traditional for Gothic churches were placed not outside, but inside, also saving on the side walls of the chapels.

They say about two masks with open mouths on the wall of the church that in the Middle Ages, on the days of major church holidays, a preacher of the Dominican order would sit near these images (on the inside of the church) and make a speech, and his speech could be heard throughout the whole city - the masks served as powerful sound amplifiers. Around the same time, two young monks were voluntarily walled up in the wall of the church, making such a cruel vow that the church would stand forever. Kind-hearted townspeople brought them water and food, pushing them into a tiny hole that has survived to this day and is now only covered with a grate (probably to prevent them from throwing garbage).

The townspeople did not like the Dominicans: they controlled the Inquisition, which, although it did not rage in Riga as in Belgium, Spain or Italy, still terrified the inhabitants. Dislike reached its climax in the middle of the 15th century, when the townspeople pretty much destroyed the monastery buildings and the church (and the townspeople were no slouch!), however, the church was restored in the same fifteenth century. The new church, which has preserved its appearance to this day, is somewhat reminiscent of the House of the Blackheads (perhaps they were designed by the same masters). In 1523, the townspeople finally expelled the Dominican order from Riga (the surviving monks had to stomp along the mouth of the Daugava to the nearest monastery about 100 km!) and set up a stable in the church. Having learned about this, the German emperor imposed a large fine on the city, and they set up a stable here. armory. Status religious building The church received it again only under Stefan Batory, who transferred the church to the Latvian community. Now you can get inside strictly during concerts inside, or by asking the old ladies sitting inside in the office.

Don't be lazy to go to Jan's courtyard(Jana seta, Jana seta) to the left of the arch leading to the Convent of Seta. The house hanging over the courtyard is residential, judging by the sleepy faces looking out of the windows early in the morning. In Yan's courtyard you can see another fragment of the defensive city wall, although it is blocked off by café tents all year round.

Inset: This was once the property of a monastery, which was abolished during the Reformation. Since the 16th century, there was a forced workhouse in house No. 7; in 1794-1803. - an almshouse, and in Soviet times the Exhibition Hall of Young Artists. Since 1828, the Riga police barracks were located in Jana Seta, so until 1902 it was called the Police Barracks Compound, and only then Jana. The oldest Latvian school was opened in house No. 6. After the school building was demolished in 1938, the fortress wall of the city fortifications, reconstructed in 1957-69, was exposed in the rear.

After leaving the courtyard and winking at the Bremen Town Musicians, you can head along Skarnu street(Skarnu iela ) to the right. In a few minutes we will go out to Dome Square(Doma Laukums) , in the center of which rises the main church of Riga - Riga Cathedral(Rīgas Doms).

Inset: One of the most common mistakes made by Russian authors writing about Riga is calling the Riga Cathedral the Dome Cathedral. In European languages, the word Dom (Duomo) means cathedral, the main church of the city, therefore “Dom Cathedral” in Russian-language sources is “oil oil”.

Also in In the 12th century, on the site of what is now a spacious square, the Knights of the Sword founded a small wooden church for the needs of the order, but after the magistrate built himself the majestic Church of St. Peter, Bishop Albert could not stand it and ruined the order’s treasury - laying the foundation for a grandiose cathedral in the center of the city. The best Dutch and German craftsmen were invited for construction (this is very noticeable in the architecture of the temple), and construction began on a grand scale. The foundation of the temple was consecrated in honor of St. Mary. The church in the Romanesque style was erected quickly, but the bishop himself did not live to see the completion of the project, and was buried in the still unfinished cathedral, according to his will, “under the third stone, under the lamp.” A monastery and a palace for the highest clergy were built next to the monastery; in the courtyard of the cathedral there is still a gallery through which the monks got directly into the church without getting their feet and heads wet during bad weather (the courtyard is open to tourists).

Riga Cathedral, like its rival - the Church of St. Peter, survived floods, fires, and the Reformation, when almost all the interior decoration was destroyed; later, late Gothic and Baroque were added to the Romanesque style of the temple, and even later - classicism. The cathedral acquired its current appearance in 1776. They even say that local students study architectural styles from the cathedral. Red Gothic brick gradually replaced the limestone from which the very first Romanesque cathedral was built.

Inset: European countries whose lands overlook the Baltic Sea (Latvia, Sweden, Estonia, Poland, Germany and Denmark) are characterized not just by Gothic, but by brick Gothic. It was here that the Hanseatic League flourished, and funds were available to build impressive cathedrals and churches. Today the so-called Gothic Brick Route includes 29 cities ( full list you can look athttp://www.eurob.org ).

Inside the cathedral since the 16th century there has been famous organ, for which Liszt himself wrote the music. The organ is decorated with carvings by the German master Johann Rabb, where among the images of flowers and strange animals there are the faces of the “city fathers” - advisers to the city magistrate. The floor of the cathedral is one large cemetery: a large number of rich and noble citizens are buried here - each of them wanted to be closer to God. Heavy stone slabs are decorated with coats of arms, images, epitaphs - but all this has been erased by thousands of feet. Once upon a time, family chapels and tombs were crowded on the sides of the church, for which the best craftsmen made sculptures, decorated the walls with frescoes and carvings - alas, all this beauty did not survive the Reformation. Those who could not buy a place in the consecrated ground or did not have enough funds for a tomb ordered epitaph tablets- several of these have been preserved on the walls of the cathedral. Some of the medieval decoration has also been preserved two wood carvings, dating from the 15th century: one depicts Saint Mary, the second - Adam and Eve in paradise. After the Reformation, the monastery premises were used as a library, and fairs were held in the monastery courtyard. Now the library occupies part of the monastery, in the second half it is located (we will come here during our walk “ Traveling around Riga with children")

Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation

Founded in 1962. The exhibition reflects the history of Riga from its foundation until 1940, the history of Latvian navigation from the 10th century to the present day. The museum's collection contains half a million materials, and exhibitions are regularly held here. The museum offers tours of the exhibition, storage, Dome Church and Cross Gallery.

Museum website with up-to-date information about opening hours, entrance prices and exhibitions http://vip.latnet.lv/museums/Riga/

Inset: Please note: now, to get inside the cathedral, you need to go down a good fifteen steps, but once upon a time a high staircase led here, and you got into the cathedral by climbing a dozen steps...

In any weather, street musicians play in the evenings at different ends of the square: closer to the House with Cats - on the violin, and right next to the cathedral - on the cello. Beautiful music evokes a slightly sad mood, especially in the fog.

On the stones of the square in front of the cathedral is visible marking, made with stones - they show where the houses of wealthy townspeople stood in the Middle Ages, and, looking at them, you can try to imagine what the square looked like then. True, several meters of the cultural layer will have to be mentally “removed,” because at that time the street was much lower, and the houses looked tiny and insignificant in comparison with the cathedral.

In the alley Mukuiela, on the right side of the cathedral (if you stand facing it), there is a popular Gutenberg's Hotel- it is located in two adjacent medieval houses, and the interior retains the heavy oak beams and ancient layout. The first printing house in Riga was opened in one of the buildings - hence the name of the hotel.

From the Dome Cathedral to Castle Square(Pils laukums) and Riga Castle the street leads Pils (Pilsiela): if you stand with your back to the entrance to the cathedral, then this street will be on your left.

Riga Castle sleeps quietly.

The clocks in the cathedrals strike.

In a niche, a barefoot statue holds wet scales.

The shadow trembles on the dials.

Here under the clatter of horseshoes

Karamzin once walked,

Krylov wandered down the alley...

S. Zhuravlev, “Walking around Riga”

Riga Castle (RigasPils,Pilslaukums, 3), spread out on the banks of the Daugava, surprises many: it does not stand on a hill, as every self-respecting fortress should, and the moat and bridge have been removed, and there are no cannons to be seen on the walls, and it does not give the impression of a formidable and impregnable citadel. And even the color of a “toy” - yellow and white! But three hundred years ago it was possible to enter the fortress only through a huge suspension bridge, spanned across a deep and wide moat that went around the castle and flowed back into the river, forming a small island. Those who have already seen European castles often have a feeling of some kind of “unrealness”.

The current castle is the third in a row. The first - the wooden castle of Albert - grew up in the summer of 1201, away from the river, in its place today are the courtyards of the Convent and Jan Set. Some local historians, however, believe that the first castle was located on the site of the current Grand Palace Hotel (read about it in the chapter “Where to stay”), and only after its destruction by fire was a stone citadel founded - on the site of the current courtyard of the Convention of Set. One way or another, after 3 years the wooden castle was replaced by a stone one, made of Salaspilla limestone, which had stood for 126 years.

In 1282, Riga joined the powerful Hanseatic League, a trade association of cities on the North and Baltic Seas. The cities of the Hansa gained such power that they dared to interfere in the affairs of entire states, and even successfully fought with such powers as Denmark (and then Denmark included Sweden, Norway, and Finland). Trade and crafts began to actively develop in Riga, merchants brought not only new goods and curiosities, but also new laws and orders, and the townspeople who had tasted freedom could no longer silently endure the tyranny of the Order of the Swordsmen who had seized power. As one of the Riga chroniclers writes, “the knights were devilishly greedy, evil, selfish... When the Master of the Order rode on horseback through the city gates, everyone... had to meet him barefoot and with their heads naked” (here are the noble knights for you!). It is not surprising that in 1297 the townspeople rebelled and destroyed the second castle to the ground.

The third castle was founded by the same knights of the sword in 1330, 33 years after the revolt of the townspeople. The place on the river bank was not chosen by chance: away from the townspeople, closer to the river (and you can control the movement of merchant ships, and, if anything happens, escape quickly). On the summer solstice of 1330, the master of the order himself laid the first stone in the foundation of the future castle, and it had to be built by the townspeople who were responsible for the destruction of the old fortress. Two decades later, construction was completed, and the castle received its inhabitants - the knights of the Livonian Order. It was a real medieval fortress: with powerful walls and loopholes, and two round watchtowers - Svyatodukhovskaya and Svintsovaya. Standing today on Castle Square in front of the high battle tower, it’s easy to imagine a ditch, a bridge, and even, it seems, the castle’s defenders are rattling their weapons somewhere... Unfortunately, there are no traces of either the ditch or the bridge, and the favorite shot of tourists is the balcony , from which the President is said to be speaking, and a couple of imperturbable guards guarding the entrance. And there is not even a rush, as, say, in London or Prague, during the changing of the guard.

Inset: The castle itself, built of white limestone, was already dazzling from afar with its brightness and purity, and in the courtyard of the castle, even more dazzling and worthy, the order brothers walked in their white cloaks, and they seemed to be messengers of the Lord himself, descending from heaven with the order of the Almighty - to decide earthly affairs." L. Purse “The Cross over the Fortification”

In 1481, the armed struggle broke out with renewed vigor: the order’s cannons actively fired at the city, the Riga residents’ cannons fired at the Lead Tower, and on Castle Square, where we are now, the city militia stood in a disorderly and noisy camp. After a three-year siege, the defenders of the castle surrendered, and the order's citadel suffered the sad fate of its predecessors: on the third day after the surrender, the herald called on everyone - old and young, Germans and Latvians - to help destroy the hated fortress. Two months later, the townspeople literally wiped it off the face of the earth. Bricks and fragments of beams were used to build houses, and larger stones were later used as ship ballast. Who knows - maybe the castle stones are still looking at us from the walls of buildings near the castle? From the 15th century castle to the present day, only Tower of the Holy Spirit, which for many centuries served as a lighthouse for ships sailing along the Daugava through the fog, and now greets guests with a tall spire. The tower is located in the center of the castle, on the territory of the presidential residence, and tourists are not allowed there.

After 9 years, the Livonian Order again attacked the city and defeated the city army. Master Walter von Plettenberg was stern and adamant: he demanded that the castle be built in 6 years, and that it be even more powerful than the previous one. By 1515, a castle had risen again on the river bank: quadrangular, with a tower in each corner and a paved courtyard in the center. From this castle, cellars and fragments of walls three meters thick have been preserved to this day, where not only people, but also livestock were hidden during wars. There, in the depths of the basements, a supply of gunpowder, food, water and the order's treasury were kept, which, they say, they never stop looking for to this day. The master's residence was located on the second floor: the premises here reach a height of seven meters and are most luxuriously decorated. The third floor was adapted exclusively for defense: there are embrasures in its walls, through which the defenders of the castle could shoot or pour tar and boiling water on the besiegers. Unfortunately, we will have to be content with only an external inspection of the castle, walking around its perimeter - considerations of presidential security, after all...

In 1558, Ivan the Terrible defeated the Livonian Order, and the only inhabitants of the castle were rats scurrying through the empty corridors. At the beginning of the 17th century, the residents of Riga even thought about demolishing the dilapidated building, but in 1606 the Polish king (Riga then belonged to the Poles) still decided to leave the castle and repair it - “as soon as funds are found.” Nothing significant was done, but the castle as a whole was preserved.

In subsequent centuries, the Swedes and Russians had a hand in rebuilding the fortress, and now, looking at the castle, you see a real hodgepodge of styles (the best photo views of the castle are taken from the bridge over the Daugava) - each new owner made some changes, rebuilt something in the castle to your liking. Under the Swedes, the castle was no longer perceived as a fortress and the usable area was built up with various outbuildings: stables and warehouses. Perhaps, it was precisely from the times of Swedish rule that the chaotic nature of the castle development remained, which is very noticeable now, which is why there is no feeling of its “castle-ness”.

At the beginning of the 18th century, the territory of Latvia became part of Russia. From an impregnable citadel after the filling of the castle moat in the 18th century, the fortress turned first into a provincial administration, then into a city chancellery, where the head was Ivan Andreevich Krylov, and the governor general was Anna Kern’s husband, remember Pushkin’s lines: “I remember a wonderful moment...”. The arsenal, built by the Swedes, and the wooden houses surrounding the castle were demolished, clearing the current Castle Square, and a park was laid out in front of the castle.

Inset:

The current presidential wing of the castle appeared under interesting circumstances: under the Swedes it was stables, then in 1818, the Governor-General of Livonia, Marquis Philip Paulucci, noticed that Tsars Paul I and Alexander I, who were passing through Riga, clearly did not like the Spartan spirit of the fortress. Therefore, the Marquis ordered the wing of the former stables to be rebuilt and a new third floor to be erected. Inside, the Imperial Hall (for lavish balls), a living room and a royal office were decorated. And the cone-shaped roof of the Tower of the Holy Spirit was demolished and an observatory was built there, which was visited by Tsar Alexander I himself. An interesting detail - after the death of astronomer von Kesler, the observatory was abandoned, and the unique equipment was saved only by the fact that Moscow University bought it. The builders, however, did not take into account that the wing was erected on the site of a former moat and that the entire building stood on shaky ground that a three-story palace would not support - after a couple of decades the building began to crack, and it was possible to save it only after a large-scale reconstruction, when additional wide granite staircases were erected (previously it was necessary to climb the inconvenient medieval spiral staircase in the tower).

In 1938, Riga Castle became the residence of the President of the Republic of Latvia. From 1940 to February 1941, the Latvian Council of People's Commissars was located in the castle; in February 1941, the Palace of Pioneers was opened in the northern part of the castle. Back in the 80s of the last century, the iconic cafe “Pils” was opened in the castle, with a beautiful view of the Daugava (now closed). Now the castle is a government residence - the President of Latvia works here. The main entrance to the castle is located from the barracks and Pils (Castle) Square, it is guarded by imperturbable guards. True, tourists cannot get inside; they have to be content with an external view. If there are two flags flying on the castle flagpole ( state flag Latvia and the presidential standard), this means that the President is in the palace. If the President leaves for another residence (the castle in Sigulda, for example, read about it in the itinerary “What to see around Riga”), then one state flag proudly flies over the Holy Spirit Tower. In the southern part of the palace there is a museum of foreign art, a museum of literature and art history named after. Rainis and National Museum history of Latvia.

Museum of Foreign Art

Pils lauk ums 3

The largest collection of works of foreign art in Latvia. The most significant collections: a collection of works of art from Ancient Egypt, ancient Greece, Rome, Western Europe and the East.

http://www.amm.lv/en/about_us.htm

Entrance ticket for Russians - 5 lats.

National Museum of the History of Latvia

Pils lauk ums 3

The museum was founded in 1869 and is a rich collection of finds and evidence of archaeological, ethnographic, numismatic, historical and artistic significance. The main exhibition covers the period from ancient times to the beginning of the 20th century.

Museum website with up-to-date information on opening hours, entry prices and exhibitions

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Riga is amazing beautiful city, where beautiful and cheerful people live. We spent almost all the time in old Riga - the historical center of the city, where the main attractions, shops, hotels and many cozy cafes are located. By the way, this is where we lived, two steps away from the main tourist sites.

It was cold and cloudy, but we still walked a lot, took pictures, and went to museums. And of course, we didn’t have time to get around everything in the less than two days we had. But Lena and I decided that we would definitely return to this amazing city! And now many books and some photographs.

The most “prominent” Riga landmark is the Lutheran Church of St. Peter. An amazingly beautiful temple in the very center of old Riga. We lived a stone's throw from him (when I booked the hotel I was sure there would be some kind of catch, but no)

The first mention of St. Peter's Church dates back to 1209. It was the main church building of medieval Riga. One of the oldest schools in the city operated here.

In the Middle Ages, St. Peter's Church was the tallest wooden building in Europe, and until recently the tallest tall building in Riga (123.25 m). At the lower (57 m) and upper (71 m) levels of the tower there are observation platforms, which offer a wonderful view of the roofs of the Old Town, the center of Riga, and the Daugava River. Unfortunately, we didn’t go up there... but it’s okay - you won’t have time everywhere, but we know where to go next time.

The church burned down, was completed and rebuilt several times. The last time the wooden tower burned down was hit by a German shell in 1941. In the Riga military museum (there will definitely be a post about it) we saw a photograph of a cathedral engulfed in flames... it looked sad =(The church was finally restored in 1973 and it was no longer wooden but metal. Nowadays services are held there on Sundays...

Near the church there is a monument to the Beremensky musicians. This is the work of sculptor Christ Baumgartel, presented as a gift to Riga from its sister city Bremen in 1990. The musicians are depicted at the moment when they look out the window to the forest robbers. By the way, the monument also has a symbolic concept - according to the “official version,” it represents the end of the Cold War and the unification of two blocs.

According to legend, you need to rub the donkey's nose and make a wish that will surely come true. The same will happen with the other two animals. And your deepest desire will be fulfilled by a rooster, which is very difficult to reach =)

The buildings in Old Riga are very beautiful. If you look under your feet, you may not notice many interesting decorations on buildings

Behind St. Peter's Church is the Riga Dome Cathedral, founded on July 25, 1211. It is the largest medieval temple in the Baltic countries. The name of the cathedral comes from the Latin expressions - “Domus Dei” (“House of God”) and “D.O.M.” When we visited, it was almost completely hidden behind forests.

This cathedral is the dominant feature of the very beautiful Dome Square. There are many Art Nouveau buildings on it, for example the Latvian Radio building (pictured on the left)

But this laundry was apparently hung out by Santa Claus... it’s near our hotel

Statue in the arch

But Riga Castle, by the way, is the residence of the President of Latvia and one of the most historically and culturally significant buildings in the Latvian capital. It was founded in 1330 by the Livonian knights, after their old castle was destroyed (knights are just like ants - they cannot live without a castle). After the abolition of the order, the castle was inhabited first by Polish (1578-1621) and then by Swedish (1621-1710) governors, who expanded and completed the castle in accordance with their own tastes and needs.

After the siege and capture of Riga by Russian troops (1710), the governor-general of Livonia settled in the Riga Castle. Separate premises continued to be used as a prison. Perhaps the most famous prisoners of the Riga Castle were Anna Leopoldovna, who was overthrown from the Russian throne, and her family. Having lost its protective function, the castle gradually began to lose its formidable appearance... Under Soviet rule, there was a palace of pioneers and museums. In 1995, the president and his office moved into the castle. Also located in the castle historical Museum, I must say, a very sad post about his visit.

But a narrow street leads to another Riga church - the Anglican Church of the Savior. It was built in 1857 according to the design of the architect Johann Daniel Felsko with funds allocated by English merchants. Almost all the materials for construction were brought from England; moreover, even the English soil on which the temple was founded was delivered by ship.

Under Soviet rule, student parties were held in the Anglican Church, and then a recording studio was created. In 1991, the church was returned to the believers, but apparently something didn’t work out. In July 2005, the first gay service in Latvia was held here, conducted by Pastor Māris Sants, who did not hide his non-traditional sexual orientation. At the same time, a gay pride parade began its procession from the temple building, which, according to rumors, was greeted without much sympathy by the majority of Riga residents.

Either a hotel or an embassy

And here, if I’m not confused, is the building of the Small Guild, an organization of Riga artisans founded in 1226. Those artisans who were not members of this guild did not have the right to claim the title of guild master. If the artisan was not a member of the guild and dared to work illegally, neglecting the charter of his workshop, or the general charter developed by the elders Small Guild, his working tools were officially destroyed by the city executioner during city festivities on Town Hall Square

Near the Small Guild building is the famous House of Cats, built in 1910.
According to legend, a wealthy merchant, Latvian by nationality, who did not want to be accepted into the Guild, where the Germans were in charge, built this house and installed statues of cats on it, with their backs facing the Guild building. After lengthy legal proceedings, the merchant's affairs seemed to have been settled, and the cats were turned to a more diplomatic position.

This house also “played the role” of the Berlin hotel “At the New Gate”, near which the cherished meeting of Standartenführer Otto von Stierlitz and the all-powerful Reichsleiter Martin Bormann took place.

The cats on the roof are very funny, judging by the souvenirs they are also one of the symbols of Riga

Souvenirs are sold in the square near the building (although there is no shortage of them in the old town)

And here is another attraction - the Laima Clock. Their history can be traced back to 1904, two years after the Riga tram began moving along the main streets of the Livonian capital. The city authorities were faced with the acute issue of improving city public transport stops. It was then that a gazebo, a stop, kiosks and a clock were installed.

The clock (and the stop itself) was repeatedly changed and rebuilt. In the early 1990s they regained appearance based on the prototype of a German advertising pole from 1936. Nowadays they are considered the most romantic attraction in Riga

There are a lot of hotels in old Riga. There is even a hostel for cats. Moreover, it was installed not on anyone’s initiative, but by order of the mayor! .

And this is the gunpowder tower - the only tower that has survived to this day, an element of the city fortification system of Riga. It was first mentioned in the chronicle in 1330 in connection with the conquest of the city by the troops of the Livonian Order. It was rebuilt several times, as were the Riga fortifications, which numbered 28 towers. During times Russian Empire the tower turned out to be abandoned - there was no howling, and the system of city fortifications prevented the city from developing. By order of the active Governor-General of the Baltic region A. A. Suvorov, a large-scale plan for the reconstruction of Riga was adopted in 1856. It was assumed that all elements of the fortress wall were to be torn down. An exception was made for the Powder Tower: it was still necessary to leave at least one example of fortification for history.

For a long time the tower was empty and pigeons lived in it. But in 1892, Rubonia was not transferred to the student corporation, whose members professed the ideas of aggressive nationalism. According to legend, the condition of the transfer was that the nationalists promised to carry out repairs in the tower. They didn't have enough money... but a lot of pigeon droppings had accumulated in the tower over the years while it was ownerless. Enterprising Nazis sold it to local merchants who owned greenhouses and more than recouped their costs.

The tower was equipped with several dance halls, a fencing hall and a beer hall, which later became practically the first place in the world where Nazi ideas began to be voiced. An active member of the Rubonia corporation was the son of a German shoemaker and an Estonian woman, a student at the Riga Polytechnic Institute, Alfred Rosenberg, who in the future became one of the most influential members and ideologists of the National Socialist German Workers' Party (NSDAP). Together with him, active members of this corporation were the future imperial specialist on the “Russian question” Arnaud Schickedanz and the ideological inspirer of the Beer Hall Putsch, Max Erwin von Scheibner-Richter, who was shot during the putschist march through Munich in 1923.

Today, in the Powder Tower there is a military museum - which I really liked. separate post about visiting it =) By the way, under the tower there are secret bunkers, which, according to legend, were built during the first independence. But it’s not customary to talk about them =)

And this old woman was begging for alms on one of the streets of Old Riga. When no one was around, she fed the skinny pigeon...

And here is the Freedom Monument, erected in 1935 in memory of the fallen fighters for the independence of Latvia in the very heart of Riga, on Brivibas Boulevard (previously in its place there was a monument to Peter I)

The monument was made by sculptor Karlis Zale and architect Ernest Ekabovich Shtalberg (both graduates of the St. Petersburg Academy of Arts). The monument is a vertical monument, 42 meters high. Made of gray and red granite, travertine, concrete and copper. At the base there are 13 sculptures and bas-reliefs depicting pages of the country's history, from the legendary hero Lachplesis to the Latvian Red Riflemen.

After Latvia joined the USSR in 1940, some Latvian communists raised the question of the admissibility of reconstruction, transfer, or even possible dismantling of the monument, but thanks to the participation of many artists, in particular the famous sculptor V. I. Mukhina (who was born in Riga), the monument remained in its place.

Now there is even a guard of honor marching in front of the monument.

And not far from the Freedom Monument is the Nativity of Christ Cathedral- cathedral church of the Latvian Orthodox Church (ROC), built in neo-Byzantine style by architect Robert Pflug in 1884

Bas-relief on one of the buildings in old Riga

The spire of St. Peter's Church, which is visible from almost everywhere in Riga. By the way, it is crowned not with a cross, but with a cockerel, which symbolizes vigilance and is able to protect against evil spirits, and at the same time plays the role of a universal weather vane

Mosaics on the streets:

And here is the Riga Academy of Arts. The building was built in 1905 according to the design of the architect V. Boxlaff.

I managed to confuse it with the Latvian National Museum of Art and even went inside =)

And here it is - the National Art Museum of Latvia, one of the oldest museums in Riga, founded in 1869. a separate post about this museum and impressions of visiting it.

Stalin. I found the bust somewhere in the Old City near some “nostalgic” Soviet cafe. In general, I have never seen so many images of Stalin as in Latvia. His portraits were in historical, military, art museums and, of course, in the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia. Fortunately, at least the museum of erotica did without Joseph Vissarionovich. In Russia, you don’t “meet” a leader of peoples so easily; I only remember a couple of sculptures in Moscow, and I saw portraits only at special exhibitions, like . And looking at the museums in Riga, you might even get the impression that convinced Stalinists live in Latvia...

And here, by the way, is the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, on the Latvian Riflemen Square. a separate post about his visit...

And here is the monument to the Latvian Riflemen, located actually on the Latvian Riflemen Square. Installed in 1971, the author of the sculptural composition is Valdis Karlovich Albergs, a graduate of the Academy of Arts of the Latvian SSR.

The Occupation Museum building stands between the modern Latvian Riflemen Square and the medieval and very beautiful Town Hall Square. Initially, a medieval market was located in its place, and the square itself was known as the Market Square throughout the 13th century. But later, in place of the fish stalls, houses of wealthy burghers grew, which changed both the name and status of the square.

The most noticeable building on the square (which is usually mistaken for the Riga Town Hall) is the House of the Blackheads, built during the time of the Livonian Order (1330-1353), and the first documentary mention of which dates back to 1334 (the new house of the Great Guild). At the end of the 15th century it was leased by the Blackheads, and in 1713 (other sources in 1687) it became their property and received its current name (Before this, the romantic one was more often used - “King Arthur’s Court”)

The building was rebuilt several times, and during the Second World War it was completely destroyed. It was restored in 1999-2001 to celebrate the 800th anniversary of Riga

By the way, the Blackheads are not a surname, but an association of merchants, shipowners and foreigners that existed in Livonia from the mid-14th century until 1940...

Another interesting object on Town Hall Square is the statue of Roland, a symbol of freedom in the medieval city. The presence of this statue meant that the city had the right to independently conduct trade, administer justice and was thus free. The cities where she was even called “the cities of Roland”

The authors of the statue on Town Hall Square were well-known Baltic Sea residents in Livonia: the architect and designer, architectural theorist Wilhelm Neumann and the famous sculptor August Volz. However, a copy created in 2005 is now on display.

As for the legendary knight himself, I recommend reading The Song of Roland. As a child, this medieval action film made a strong impression on me... it’s strange that Hollywood hasn’t filmed it yet (or maybe I’m just not aware)

And here, in fact, is the Riga Town Hall itself - the building that served as the residence of the Riga city government (Riga Town Hall). The Town Hall was originally built in a different location, around 1225, when townspeople, dissatisfied with the authority of Bishop Albert von Buxhoeveden, staged an uprising and won the right to have their own body of self-government. In 1334, a new building appeared, now on Town Hall Square.

In 1710, Riga was stormed by Peter's troops and the Town Hall building was significantly damaged. It was demolished in 1750, and a new one was built by 1765. It, in turn, was rebuilt in 1848 under the direction of the young Baltic architect Johann Daniel Felsko. However, in 1877 the city government was abolished and a library and bank were located in the building.

On June 29, 1941, units of the Nazi army subjected Riga to crushing artillery fire. Historical building Riga Town Hall burned down. Its ruins remained until 1954, after which, by decision of the Riga City Executive Committee, they were dismantled, and in their place the building of the Riga Polytechnic Institute was built. After Latvia gained independence, the building was rebuilt again and became a copy of the old Town Hall. Today the Riga City Council sits here.

Another interesting object on Town Hall Square is " first New Year tree in Riga 1510 year"

But the street musician... there were four of them, very funny, wrapped in some kind of women's rags. They played cool covers of various popular songs... We really liked them

Cafe in Old Riga. I wanted to come in, but they say it's very expensive...

Riga residents, I met them on the embankment.

They're probably going to the opera, I ran into them right next to it.

Owl, symbol of wisdom!

Just a house on Town Hall Square. I liked it... I wonder what's in it.

I confess honestly, I have wanted to do this for a very long time trip to Riga. Firstly, because there really is something to see here. And secondly, because trip to Latvia– for a long time remained the only piece of the puzzle that I was missing. It just so happened that among all the countries with which Belarus borders, I have never been only to Latvia. This year alone we have traveled, visited and visited. But, not surprisingly, it is Latvia, such a close country in every sense, that has always remained outside our tourist routes.

The appearance of Superbus buses in Lithuania, which sells tickets from Vilnius to Riga for only three euros, allowed us to fulfill our long-standing dream and finally visit the last of our neighboring countries. This opportunity could not be missed. Therefore, very soon, having taken a couple of days off from work, we took tickets for the Grodno-Vilnius flight and, accompanied by the heart-warming songs of Katya Ogonyok (which the driver of the Grodno minibus apparently loved very much), we went to the capital of Lithuania, where double-decker Superbus buses were already waiting for us. Eventually, trip to Riga lasted for a full nine hours. But even taking into account the two-hour stop in Vilnius, we only gained in terms of money, comfort and time. However, I will not dwell on this issue in more detail. If you want, read our article. All the ways to get to the Latvian capital are described in detail there.

Bus Superbus (daughter of Polish Bus). The cabin has Wi-Fi, a toilet, climate control, soft chairs and other attributes of a decaying Europe. Ticket price: 3 euros. Well, where is the justice?

...At the Riga station we were met by a girl named Veronica, the owner of the apartment we rented through AIRBNB. After this there was a short night, stories about architecture in the art nouveau style and detailed instructions regarding the most interesting places and establishments of the city, which mixed in my head into such a mess that I did not remember absolutely anything from it. We reached Riga late in the evening, and therefore by this time I was already pretty tired. All I had enough strength for on the first day was a walk to the local Lido. The present travel around Riga started a day later...

Deniss Maidanovs and Semyons Slepakovs... It’s not visible in the photo, but the only singer whose last name has remained unchanged is our Max Korzh. He has a concert there soon. More precisely, probably, concertas.

Riga in the evening

Walk around Riga: a journey of a million photos

For $34 a day we rented a very nice apartment almost in the very center of the city. The spire of the new Church of St. Gertrude was visible right from the windows of our house. That’s why it was from there that we began our acquaintance with the city.

I took pictures of her ten times. And if it weren’t for the “Belarusian Shopping Center”, whose sign unexpectedly caught my eye, I would have taken as many more photos.

Belarusian shopping center. A portal to another reality. You should see what kind of saleswomen there are... Fatal.

Riga itself turned out to be a surprisingly photogenic city. As before, here I wanted to photograph literally everything - ancient houses along Brivibas Avenue, ancient churches, funny faces on the facades of buildings...

Some time later, VKONTAKT worship, which became my Tanya’s new religion, forced me to arrange a small photo shoot for her in a local park...

And then in another...

Along the way, the Riga Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ slipped into the frame.

And the glass skyscraper of the Latvia Hotel (also known as the Radisson Blue Hotel).

On one of its top floors there is the Sky Line bar, which offers a cool view of the city. On weekdays you can get there for free. But the prices there are steep... Even very... Seriously! Just "Piranha 3D".

By the way, before I forget. If you are not on Brivibas Avenue, pay attention to this dark building with the sign “Pasta”. Yes, yes, you might think that this is Italian restaurant. But in fact, this is one of the central post offices. In this place you can buy cool magnets for just one and a half euros. In the city center, exactly the same souvenirs are 2-2.5 times more expensive. In general, save your money. Travel to Riga– will also give you the opportunity to part with them.

Riga Statue of Liberty. Almost New York... Well, or not quite...

Although in general, I would not say that Riga is a super-mega-expensive city. Prices here are higher than in Las Palmas, but lower than in Charleroi. In “Belgian Chelyabinsk” a regular package costs 0.9 euros in a store. In Latvia, you can buy a bottle of beer for this money (0.5-0.7 euros in a store). And there will be some left over for some chips.

You can estimate your expenses and imagine what awaits you during your trip to Riga on the Numbeo website. This project allows you to compare prices in different cities around the world. Overall, it's a good thing.

Travel insurance to Riga

In one of my previous articles, I already wrote that during this trip to Latvia I caught a serious cold. Riga is a city located by the sea. Therefore, the weather here changes ten times a day. A second ago the sun was shining. And then - bam - and suddenly wild cold. At least, during this autumn trip I still couldn’t guess with clothes.

One more thing... I don’t know whether you are aware or not, but all medicines in Riga pharmacies are sold only by prescription. That’s why I personally didn’t even manage to buy myself the banal “Antigrippin” when I really needed it. As a result, I saved myself with warm tea (and walked around in three sweaters and two pants). Why am I writing all this? So that you don't repeat my mistake. Therefore, before traveling to Latvia, be sure to get yourself insurance. Even if it’s the simplest and cheapest one (at least some Belgosstrakh). Although personally I would advise you to buy a policy. Here are the insurance policies of all the leading companies on the planet (including such well-known companies as Liberty and ERV). And the policies themselves, sometimes, are even cheaper than on the official websites of certain companies.

Housing in Riga

During this trip, we rented this nice studio a couple of kilometers from the Old Town. It is well furnished, conveniently located, and there are several inexpensive cafes and good supermarkets nearby. Therefore, you can safely choose this option for your trip. The asking price is $34 per day (well, of course, if nothing has changed since then). Although we personally rented it even cheaper (since before this trip I had several discount bonuses on the AIRBNB website). You can also get a small discount on your booking. To do this, you just need to register in the system using this link.

As for hotels, there are a lot of them here too. At the same time (unsurprisingly) in this city they cost almost the same as private apartments. I have collected my personal selection of the best hotels, hostels and apartments in the Latvian capital. Read it. I think you will find it interesting.

Are you in Riga for the first time or just here for one day? With our tip, you will know exactly where to go and what to see (especially if you don’t have much time).

The capital of Latvia has a rich ancient history. Located on the shores of the Gulf of Riga and at the mouth of the Daugava River, Riga has long been a commercial and multicultural city. This means that there is something to see here today. Of particular interest to travelers is the Old Town. Let's walk through it.

1. St. Peter's Church

This is one of the significant and impressive buildings in the historical center of the city. The spire of St. Peter's Church rises above the houses, representing a kind of landmark and symbol of old Riga. The building is truly unique, because it is the oldest in the Latvian capital. The construction of the church was completed in 1209. After that, it burned more than once, was restored and rebuilt. The time of progress has also left its mark: today the church has an elevator that takes everyone to two observation platforms. It is unforgivable to visit Riga and not climb the tower, because from the height there is an amazing view of the city. By the way, the total height of the tower of St. Peter's Church is 123.5 m, with the spire accounting for 64.5 m.

Viewpoint of St. Peter's Church

View of Riga from the spire of St. Peter's Church

2. Town Hall Square

The most important square of the Old Town in Riga - Town Hall - is located directly opposite the Stone Bridge. Knowing this, it is very easy to find it. In the Middle Ages, this place was a trading platform with an extensive market. In addition, Town Hall Square was the administrative center of medieval Riga. Unfortunately, to this day it has not retained its original appearance, since the Second World War left no stone unturned from this place. And yet, thanks to the miracles of reconstruction, we can now see the Town Hall building, the House of the Blackheads, the statue of the knight Roland on the square and imagine exactly what Riga looked like in those distant times.

Town Hall building in Riga

Knight Roland Statue

3. House of the Blackheads

This beautiful building, which is without a doubt the main decoration of Town Hall Square, was completely destroyed in 1941 and restored from scratch in 1999. Initially, the building had a different name - New House. It was built in the 30s of the 14th century for various societies. In the next century, the house was completely used by the Blackheads Society (brotherhood of merchants). But the name “House of the Blackheads” did not take root right away - it began to be used only in 1687. The blackheads became full owners of the house even later - in 1713.

4. Dome Cathedral

In the heart of the Old Town is Dome Square, home to the best cafes and bars in the city. All of them, oddly enough, very peacefully coexist with the Dome Cathedral, which is famous for its famous organ. Since its foundation (in 1211), the cathedral has been rebuilt many times, and now is an architectural object that combines late Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles. Today the Dome Cathedral houses great amount historical and artistic treasures collected from all over Latvia.

5. Three brothers

Not far from the Dome Cathedral you can find a unique complex of buildings for Riga, consisting of three houses from different eras. The white building was built at the end of the 15th century, the yellow one in the mid-17th century, and the green building in the mid-18th century. People called them the “Three Brothers.” In the old days, buildings in Riga were very dense, and usually representatives of the same profession lived on the same street. Since it is known that one of the houses was once a bakery, historians speculate that bakers once lived in the sister buildings. The interior of the houses is as unusual as the exterior: they are distinguished by very high ceilings, narrow corridors, steep staircases and brick floors.

One of the most significant buildings in Latvia is located right here - in Riga, right on the banks of the Daugava ( Western Dvina). After the country gained independence, Riga Castle became Presidential Palace, and before that it was for many years the seat of Soviet power. Riga Castle is a classic architectural element of old Riga. It was built by Livonian knights in 1330, when they were forced out of the then city.

7. Powder Tower

Riga, like many ancient cities, was once surrounded by a fortress wall. The only tower remaining from it reminds of this. Previously, it was called the Sand Tower and, according to historical data, was built in 1330. It received its current name – Porokhovaya – in the 17th century, when small arms powder began to be stored in it. In 1919, a Military Museum opened here, which is still open today.

8. Livov Square

This place is considered relatively new in the Old Town. Livov Square was formed only in the middle of the 20th century, but it harmoniously fits into the general style of old Riga, since houses from different eras have been preserved here. Livov Square is especially lively in the summer: tent cafes open here, mobile sales operate, and street musicians perform. In short, if you stay in Riga for several days, you know where to relax in the evening after a walk around the city.

The spire of St. Peter's Church is also visible from Livov Square

9. Cat's house

No matter how familiar the name of this building may sound, it has nothing to do with a fairy tale. But the story about the Cat's House is no less interesting. It was built in 1910 by a wealthy merchant who was not accepted into the Merchants Guild. In retaliation for this, the owner of the building placed two cats on its roof, with their backs facing directly towards the Guild. Everyone understood the hint, and things escalated into a scandal. The merchant still had to turn the cats in the other direction. But, as they say, a sediment remains. You can find the Cat's House on Livov Square, directly opposite the Great Guild building.

10. Large and small guilds

Not far from Livov Square you can find two more architectural monuments - the buildings of the Great and Small Guilds. The first was a merchant organization, and the second was an association of Riga artisans. Today the Great Guild is considered one of the oldest public buildings in the entire Baltic region (it was erected back in the 14th century). After restoration it turned into a philharmonic society. The Small Guild is much younger - it was built in 1866, and its octagonal donjon tower “hints” at the English Neo-Gothic style. Today the Small Guild houses the Center for Folk Art and Culture.

11. Monument to Freedom

One of the significant attractions of Riga is the Freedom Monument, which is a symbol of the independence of the Republic of Latvia. It is located on the main street of the city of Brivibas (or Freedom Street) and is visible from afar. Of course, is it possible not to notice the nine-meter figure of a woman holding three gold stars above her head? And not far from the monument there is a green area in which the Bastion Hill is located - an artificial embankment structure along the city canal. A nice place.

12. Riga Cathedral

This Orthodox church considered the largest in the city. At the time of its opening, which took place on October 28, 1884, the majestic cathedral with dark blue domes was considered the most expensive building in Riga. Under the Soviets, it housed a planetarium and a restaurant. After the country gained independence, the Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ was restored and “gilded”, and now its doors are again open to believers.

Route around Old Riga

The walk starts from St Peter's Church as it is located closest to the city's train station.

Magic can really happen here at any moment, but sometimes you have to start creating it yourself.

First of all, explore Riga from above. Any city is interesting to see from the observation deck, and there are no problems with them in Riga. The first thing that comes to mind is St. Peter's Basilica. Its spire rises above the city and has an easy-to-remember height of 123 meters. You take the elevator.

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After going down and examining the cathedral itself (it often hosts exhibitions), you should definitely make a wish from the Bremen Town Musicians. A donkey, a dog, a cat and a rooster stand right next to the walls of the cathedral, on Pterbazncas Street, opposite the Ekes Konvents building. The wish will come true if you rub the monument (the donkey’s nose shines brightest), but they say that if you reach for the rooster, the chances of your dream coming true increase significantly. No wonder - the rooster is so high that if you have enough persistence to reach it, then you will not need perseverance to fulfill any desire. Bremen is a sister city of Riga, so the Bremen Town Musicians have found their second home here.

Courtyard of the Set Convention in Riga

Very close by is the Convention Courtyard (Konventa seta), you can’t pass by it either.

This is also where Jan Set's courtyard in Riga is a courtyard and former city gate.

The courtyard of the Seta convention (Konventa seta) is several times larger than the courtyard of Jan Seta. It is an architectural monument of the XIV-XVIII centuries.

The main entrance to the convention courtyard is located directly opposite the monument to the Bremen musicians

Entering this gate, you find yourself in a small square surrounded by low buildings. The Riga Porcelain Museum is located here.

Inside, the convention courtyard is quite well-groomed, quiet and cozy, it has two narrow streets along which there are low buildings. Among these buildings is the eponymous Konventa Seta hotel, souvenir shops and the Riga Black Magic cafe-bar, which has a unique design and a magical atmosphere.

The Riga Black Magic bar is small, it serves coffee, tea, various candies, pastries, cakes, Riga balsams of all varieties and stripes, and also makes many different drinks based on the famous Balsam Rigas Black (black Riga balsam).

The Seta convention yard has a rich history. During its existence, everything was found on its territory. Initially, on the territory of the convention courtyard there were the possessions of the Order of the Sword, then the Hospital of the Holy Spirit, and since 1488 the territory belonged to the tertiary monks, i.e. monks of the Third Orders. Third orders were intended for people who wanted to take vows and live in accordance with the spirituality of the order, but not leave the world

Jan Set's courtyard in Riga

Jan Seta's courtyard, also called Ana seta (Jaa seta) from the Latvian language is literally translated as John's courtyard, since it is adjacent to the Riga Lutheran Church of St. John, from which the courtyard got its name.

Jan's Court is one of the main attractions of the Old Town in Riga and a cultural and recreational site. This is the former courtyard of a Dominican monastery.

In terms of size, Jan's courtyard is small, much smaller than the courtyard of the Convention. It has two entrances, not counting the passage connecting it to the Convention courtyard.

There are several buildings in this courtyard.

The founder of Riga, Bishop Albert, once lived in the courtyard of Jan Set; the courtyard and its buildings served as his residence. At the entrance, from Kaleju Street, you can see the old coat of arms of Riga, and in the courtyard there is a preserved fragment of a medieval fortress wall.

Currently, Yanov Dvor serves more as a passage area connecting Skarnu (Myasnaya) and Kaleya (Kuznechnaya) streets. This is how you can walk through this seemingly inconspicuous courtyard and not notice anything special. Yes, in principle, this is how it is, the courtyard is famous only for its history, and anyone who doesn’t know it is unlikely to stay in this place.

After coffee with Riga balsam, real magic works in Black Magic and you can already go wherever your eyes take you and your legs take you. What is magic without black cats?

House with black cats (Cat House)

There is a house with black cats in Riga. It was built in 1909 according to the design of the architect Friedrich Scheffel. The two towers of the house are decorated with arched backs of black cats - it is thanks to them that the house became popular.

The story of the “cat house” has become a legend in Old Riga. Legend has it that the house was owned by a wealthy citizen who was eager to join the ranks of the Riga Trade Guild. When he was refused, he decided to take revenge.

The merchant ordered two sculptures of black cats with arched backs and placed them on the towers of his house with their tails facing the windows of the guild elder’s office. An unsuccessful lawsuit began against the owner of the house, which dragged on for many years. Each of the judges noted in the verdict that cats are freedom-loving animals and walk as they please. However, after some time, the sculptures on the house were nevertheless turned in the other direction.

Wooden quarter Kalnciema

It would be a shame not to take a walk to the wooden quarter of Kalnciema. There are nice cafes and restaurants here, and on weekends there are film screenings, various fairs and other interesting events.

In Zadvinye, an entire block of unique wooden buildings from the 19th century has been restored. To restore it, a group of like-minded people came together to restore this place to its historical appearance and give it the dynamics of the 21st century. It now houses designer shops, and the courtyards host fairs, exhibitions and other events.

This is an example of wooden architecture of the 19th century, belonging to the style of late classicism in Western European architecture.

The revival of wooden buildings in this quarter began in 2001, and to date six buildings have been restored, inside of which there is a courtyard with a small apple orchard. In the process of renovation of buildings, traditional materials and technologies were used, but the buildings themselves fully meet modern requirements for comfort and rhythm of life.

Concerts, film screenings and thematic fairs are regularly held here, bringing together Latvian peasants and artisans. People come here for organic products: buy real Latvian rye bread, honey, wild berries.

Once you find yourself in Kalnciema, you very quickly forget that you are in a city - this place is more like a country yard.

And on the way from the hotel to the quarter, you can look at the impressive water tower called Gray Alice. It was built more than 100 years ago. There are several water towers in Riga, the most famous are Anna and Zhanna (Maza Matisa St., 2), but Alisa is called the most beautiful.

Tower on the street Alices 4 (1910) designed by Wilhelm Ludwig Nikolai Bockslaff. The water towers, located on the hills, near the cemeteries, connected by invisible lines in a triangle, are, perhaps, according to the architect’s plan, the Latvian Olympus, where the Velis live, from which they go to people, at their call.

Coat of arms on the water tower

Towers on the hill on the street. Mathis was built in 1896-97. And they appeared here for a reason. Urban legends say that the architect of the towers was a Freemason. His plan involved the construction of mystical place three identical towers forming an isosceles occult triangle - a Masonic symbol of wisdom. But the city only had enough money for two water pumps. The secret plan failed. The only thing that remained for the “free mason” was to decorate the spiers of the towers with geocentric spheres.

The place where the towers stand is complex in itself, with its own occult history. So, already at the time of the construction of the towers, the Matis cemetery was located nearby - the resting place of the poor and suicides. Going back to hoary antiquity, it must be said that a natural sandy hill served as the place of execution of Riga witches. And today, from the hillock, the prospect of the street is clearly visible. Matis, in the past - Gallows Street. The street ended with gallows installed on a relic dune - hence its old name.

ALL PHOTOS:Vladimir TkachenkovLatvia, Riga.

No wonder these water towers have a very strange reputation. People working here often hear strange sounds, and sometimes see something incomprehensible.

An interesting method is how the tower was enlarged in 1937, when it could no longer fulfill its main purpose in its original form. Jacks were placed under its base, and while raising the tower, they simultaneously built up the free space. Thus, the tower was increased by 7.5 meters.

The height of the tower is about 40 meters, the volume is approximately 2000 cubic meters

Behind the tracks on a hillock are the water towers Anna and Zhanna (1885-87). At two water towers on Maza Matis Street there are names - Anna and Zhanna. Legend has it that Anna was a skilled healer and paid for it with her life. She was burned at the medieval stake “for witchcraft.” The pharmacist, whose clients Anna was taking away, came knocking. And soon the girl’s sister, Zhanna, took her own life. In the place where the ashes of the two sisters were scattered, towers were built, like two drops alike.