Walking to the Bird Rock of Kush-Kaya. Crimea. The Batiliman tract is the real “Crimean Africa” Camping kush kaya on the map
Top 10 tent cities in Crimea
I don’t know about you, but my family really likes camping. And in Crimea we stayed in a tent city and camped on the shores of the Black Sea.
Now, due to the imposition of sanctions against our country, many citizens are refusing to rest. They say that you won’t find the usual service abroad in Russia, and there are no places where you can go so that the quality matches the price. And, in order to break the stereotype in Russia, we suggest going by car with a tent or camper to Crimea and invite you to get acquainted with popular camping spots on the Black Sea coast.
This is our distant campsite three years ago: our first overnight stay in Crimea in a tent in 2015 Below we will present ten stunning campsites in Crimea where you can spend an unforgettable vacation. The so-called “savage holiday” is an excellent choice in favor of fresh air, impressions and vigor for a long time. This type of vacation is suitable for tourists for whom staying in a boarding house or hotel with all amenities is not an affordable luxury, but also for those who like to spend their vacation this way. There is enough space for camping in Crimea, with the exception of protected areas and populated areas. The campsites are located near the sea on the beach line with equipped toilets, showers and fresh water.
Cities such as New Sudak, Koktebel, Alushta and others are suitable for a “savage” holiday.
The way to the camping in Crimea
To enjoy a “savage” holiday, you need to travel by car. The car allows its passengers to visit various cities, visit unique places, and stop for swimming in wild places. When traveling with a group, you can save on gasoline. When traveling to Crimea, you should consider the following points: a long road (a navigator or another person is needed to replace the driver), adherence to the speed limit and patience in traffic jams on the highways. Having reached the Kerch ferry, the car enters the ferry and then unloads on the other side. There are parking lots for vehicles, where the car is parked and a bus and ferry are offered to continue the journey.
What to take for camping on the Black Sea?
Before you hit the road by car, you need to take care of your luggage. For accommodation you need to take a tent, sleeping bag, rug and raincoat. Clothing (warm jacket, windbreaker, warm trousers, socks and underwear) and shoes (flat sneakers and flip-flops) should be practical. For headwear, a panama, cap or hat. And, sunglasses, sun cream, sun cream, burns and bites, dishes, matches, a flashlight, a map of the area, a flask with fresh water, batteries, a rechargeable battery and a first aid kit are mandatory attributes of the trip.
As for provisions, for the first time you can take:
- coffee,
- sugar,
- crackers,
- cracker,
- canned food,
- fresh water,
- porridge (oatmeal or buckwheat).
You can replenish supplies at any store.
Put a compulsory medical insurance policy or other insurance in your backpack, just in case, and a passport.
What dangers can await campers in tents?
When vacationing as a “savage,” you should take into account that the nature around you and its inhabitants may not always be hospitable. For example, stray dogs, spiders, snakes and insects. If they are bitten, you should immediately consult a doctor. Drink only boiled water, stop overnight in a safe place, avoiding cliffs and slopes. Do not swim during a thunderstorm or storm.
This is the mantis we found this morning when we left the tent 
and another one dropped by at night to check on the light :) We found it when we were already assembling the tent Places to relax with a tent in Crimea
We decided to relax in Crimea as a “savage”, then you need to go to such places on the Black Sea as:
- Orlovka. Located on the Black Sea coast. Excellent sandy beach, toilets and shops within walking distance,
- Cape Fiolent. Attracts with its mesmerizing view, rocks and springs with clear water,
- Laspi Pass. Village on the seashore near a children's camp,
- Ordzhonikidze. A village near Feodosia. The territory of the village is rich in beaches, shops and cafes. The surrounding area of the village is full of attractions,
- Zelenogorye, where waterfalls, mountain trails and fishing spots of lakes allow you to plunge into a world of silence and tranquility.
You should pay attention to places specially equipped for tourists with tents.
List of camping places in Crimea
Recreation center Khimik
I really liked this recreation center in 2017. Located in Koktebel next to the water park. On the territory of the city. Address: Feodosia, Koktebel village, st. Lenina, 140
We stayed for one night. Very friendly and helpful guys who are always ready to help. There is a kitchen, free cool shower. For money you can use a washing machine and a hot shower.
There is a children's playground.
Tent rental - 50 rub. A place for a car is 50 rubles, a place for a tent is 50 rubles. Utilities - from 120 rubles per person, depending on the month. Wooden houses - from 250 rub. per person, the price also depends on the month.
These are the unusual playgrounds at the Khimik recreation center 
tent site at the Khimik recreation center Capsel
The popular one is located between capes Alchak and Meganom. City of Sudak, microdistrict. Shelf No. 12.
We personally were in this car camping when we decided to drive along the Black Sea coast and look for places for a tent. On its territory there are places for eating, a Wi-Fi zone, a volleyball court and swings. Accommodation with comfortable conditions is available. Small pebble beach. On the camping site there are three- to four-bed houses, which are under 24-hour security and about 400 places for tents.
For parking cars and tents they will charge 800 rubles per day. When placing one person 70 rubles, you will have to pay 80 rubles for electricity, and a hot shower 50 rubles and in just five minutes. There will be a free cool shower.
Wooden houses at the Kapsel camping site Visiting the Joker
Camping Visiting the Joker is located at the address: Alushta city, Malorechenskoye village, st. Vinogradnaya, 1/1
In the village of Malorechenskoye on the territory of Big Alushta near the sea, a new campsite has opened. This happened in 2016 after the reconstruction of the recreation center. The camping area is green (flower beds, clearings and alleys), fenced and guarded. There are places for tents on more than 2 hectares of land, and you can rent a room in the houses. All conditions for relaxation are present: electricity, toilet, water, outdoor shower, washbasins and garbage containers. You can use the dining room, tennis table, barbecue and gazebo. There is even Wi-Fi, which is free.
Parking for motorhomes starts from 450 rubles, places for tents from 350 rubles.
Camping Park Kush-Kaya
Address: Laspi, Batiliman tract, Sevastopol city.
Camping Park is located on the Black Sea coast under the steep cliffs of Kush-Kaya. The camping area stretches over 16 hectares. An excellent place at the foot of Mount Kush-Kaya among evergreen trees and flower meadows. Recreation areas are equipped with a kitchen, electricity, gas, refrigerator, toilet and showers. The park has more than twenty routes for climbers, trails for walking, and more than seventy paths for rock climbing and other obstacles.
To stay in a tent you will have to pay 250 rubles per person per day. A tent can be rented for 200 rubles.
Camping Glade of Fairy Tales
Address: Yalta, st. Kirova, 169.
We were in this place back in 2013. But we stayed at the Poyalna fairy tales hotel. The places are gorgeous.
Located near the city of Yalta with beautiful views of the mountains, healthy air and comfortable conditions. The camping is located near Mount Stavri-Kaya not far from the Yalta Forest Reserve. Vacationers live in wooden houses or in the main building of the hotel. Camping is strictly prohibited. But for tourists with cars there is a platform for iron horses. Tourists have access to a shower, swimming pool, restaurant, toilet, playground, basketball courts and much more. There is a zoo next to the Glade of Fairy Tales, so children and adults will have somewhere to spend their leisure time. In the morning, even in the hotel you can hear the cry of macaw parrots :) Swimming in the sea will take time to get to the beach.
The cost of parking one car will cost 1,350 rubles per day.
Car camping Ripario
Address: suburb of Yalta, st. Maurice Thorez, 5.
Camping Ripario is located within the resort and is a three-tiered caravan campsite with space for over twenty caravans. Nearby is the Nikitsky Botanical Garden, a beach with all amenities and places of entertainment. The Ripario Hotel Group always welcomes guests who will give its visitors comfort and coziness.
Parking a car will cost 580 rubles, each person will have to pay 280 rubles, children from five to twelve get a 30% discount, and under five years old are free.
Camping Sun
Address: s. Kamenskoye, on the territory of the Arabatskaya Strelka conservation area.
Located on the shores of the Azov Sea near Lake Sivash with blue clay. Walking around the surrounding area, you can explore the ruins of the Turkish fortress “Arabat” and admire the scenery. Houses for four people with private facilities and two two-story houses with three and four bed rooms are available for accommodation. Outdoor amenities include toilets and showers. The place for eating is located in the parking area. The sea is just a stone's throw away. The sea is warm and shallow. The beach is clean, sandy and shell-like, gradually turning into sand closer to the water.
Car parking is free, the cost per person per day is from 400 rubles, children from three to twelve are accommodated with a 15% discount.
Autocamping Privetnoe
How to get to the Privetnoye camping: follow the M2 to Dzhankoy, then turn left to Nizhnegorsky, Belogorsk-pass-Privetnoye. All the time along the main road.
This campsite is considered the largest on the beach. The territory includes cafes, canteens, toilets, showers, internet, leisure facilities for adults, shops, and food stalls. The campsite does not have drinking water or electricity. The place is not subordinate to anyone or anything, so you won’t have to pay for parking a car or a tent.
Cote d'Azur
Camping Cote d'Azur is located on the western side of Yevpatoria on the Moinak bay-bar.
The beach and sea bottom are sandy with a gentle slope to it. The sand is clean and fine. The beach is equipped with showers, toilets, places with fresh drinking water and cabins for changing clothes. Vacationers also have access to laundry and dining services with a 10% discount and internet. There is always a rescue team on the shore.
The cost of accommodation per person starts from rubles, children under twelve years old are accommodated free of charge. Car parking for 150 rubles every day. To connect to electricity, spend 100 rubles.
Recreation center "Coronelli"
Address: Feodosia city, Beregovoe village, st. Gagarina 93A.
The base is located 300 meters from the sea. Houses for tourists with all amenities from 350 rubles per person. You can leave your car or motor home in a guarded parking lot for 100 rubles per day. To pitch a tent - 200 rubles per person. Outside there is a shower with hot water, a volleyball court and a children's playground.
Mount Kush-Kaya (664m), translated from Turkic as “Bird Rock,” is located above Laspi Bay. This is one of the most picturesque places near Sevastopol. The rock is located above the Batilman tract and faces south, which attracts many birds as well as climbers and climbers who train here all year round.
The walking route to the mountain is not difficult; it passes through the Varnut Valley and through the mountains above the sea. It is not inferior in beauty to the routes along the Yalta Yayla and the Ai-Petri plateau, but it is much easier and more accessible. There are no dangerous ascents or descents and the length is about 16 km.
You can start the route either from the village of Goncharnoye (or Reserve) or from the Laspinsky pass on the Sevastopol - Yalta highway. You can get to both points by regular buses from 5 km of Sevastopol.
Bus schedule, Crimea: Sevastopol (“5th km”) and surroundings (mountainous part) http://www.marshrut-club.com/articles/7660
Trail to Kush-Kaya.
Path to Koosh-Kaya. View of Rhino Rock.
LINK
Mount Kokia-Kaya.
Kokiya-Kaya Mountain. On the route there is Mount Kokiya-Kaya (558m). It housed a medieval Byzantine village, a monastery and a fortress.
To see a 3D 360° panorama, click on the LINK
Mount Kokia-Kaya.
Kokiya-Kaya Mountain. View of Laspi Bay. There is also another version of the name - Kokia-Kala from the Greek "koka" - head and the Turkic "kala" - fortress (a hybrid toponym). In Soviet times, there was a radar here, as evidenced by the remains of buildings and caponiers in which you can wait out the rain.
To see a 3D 360° panorama, click on the LINK
Mount Kush-Kaya.
Koosh-Kaya Mountain. And in Yalta it’s raining. Rock rising on the horizon -
To see a 3D 360° panorama, click on the LINK
The route passes through the Varnut valley and the Kazan-Dere gully, the glades of which are rich in a wide variety of Crimean herbs. Their environmental friendliness is beyond doubt.
Yarrow, sage, unnamed flower (unknown to the author;-)
Crimean white.
There are a lot of mushrooms this year. But don’t forget the main principle: you need to be 100% sure. The same as ours, etc. Not okay!
Crimean wild boars
You may meet “locals” along the way. They behave in a businesslike manner, but not aggressively, and often make contact. There is no need to be afraid, but reasonable caution should be exercised!
I'm starting a series of articles on places to stay and climb. In the first article I would like to talk about the Batiliman coast, which is located in Laspinskaya Bay on the southern coast of Crimea. I'm going there with a group of climbers from Moscow to boulder and enjoy the nature of Crimea.
Batiliman is a popular destination among mountaineers and rock climbers. The mild, comfortable climate allows you to relax and play sports almost all year round. And, of course, nature will not leave anyone indifferent - between the sea and the rock wall there is a centuries-old forest - the protected area of the Batiliman tract, many of whose plants and trees are listed in the Red Book. A piece of paradise.
How to get to the rocks.
In Crimea, bus service between cities is well developed. You can get to Batiliman without any problems.
If you are flying to Simferopol, then the best solution would be to get to Sevastopol, and then take a bus to Yalta and get off at stop "Laspi".
You are there: above you is Mount Kush-Kaya, and below it in the protected forest there are many stones.
A good solution would be to use transfer, especially if you are traveling in a large group or with a lot of luggage. It will be a little more expensive, but you will save time and effort.
- There were 11 of us with things and crash pads, so we decided to use the services of a transport company. In addition, we purchased some groceries (if you are staying at a campsite, it is better to purchase groceries for the entire duration of your stay). The journey from Simferopol to the campsite took about two hours and cost 5,000 rubles for the whole company (Mercedes Sprinter car, 18 seats - May 2016). For comparison: on public transport you will spend 4-5 hours and 300 rubles per person.
Accommodation.
There are eight recreation centers on the Batiliman coast, but not all of them are always open - it depends on the season. You can also stay in a tent on the territory of the Kush-Kaya camping site, located in the middle of natural wealth - in the relict forest of the Batiliman tract.
- We camped for a number of reasons: camping allows for more climbing - all the bouldering rocks are within walking distance, the first rock is near the kitchen; and most importantly, we wanted to take a break from city life, so we chose a more “natural” option.
Camping "Kush-Kaya".
Camping park "Kush-Kaya" was founded by the Crimean Mountain Club in 2011. In a short time, not only rock climbers and mountaineers have fallen in love with the campsite; practitioners of yoga, martial arts, and lovers of a healthy lifestyle and natural recreation come here.
The campsite has everything necessary for a comfortable life: there is a kitchen with gas and electric stoves, a refrigerator, toilets, showers, areas equipped with canopies where you can gather in company. In case of bad weather, the campsite has a small climbing wall and a campus board.
The campsite has water, constant electricity and lighting. Internet is planned to be installed in the near future.
If you have any questions, please contact the campsite commandant and his assistants - they will always answer and help.
Nutrition.
Unfortunately, there are no cafes or shops near Batiliman. Therefore, if you are not staying in a holiday home, you will have to cook yourself.
It is better to use your own utensils than public ones. An electric kettle is an excellent alternative to a regular kettle. This is very convenient - in a few minutes you can serve tea to a large group.
The nearest store is located near the highway, at the turn into Laspi Bay, next to the villages of Tylovoe, Orlinoe and Foros. According to the campsite commandant, prices in small villages are much higher than in Sevastopol and Simferopol. Therefore, buy groceries (preferably for the entire duration of the trip) in big cities before the transfer, so as not to travel later and waste precious time.
Climbing.
At the moment, 22 climbing routes of categories 1B-5B have been prepared, about 80 routes for sport climbing, and more than 200 routes for bouldering have been marked and classified. Every year there are more routes and old ones are updated. In the future, the Crimean Mining Club plans to develop new sectors.
Guidebook for the Batiliman district – download.
With a rope.
Not far from the campsite, within a 10-15 minute leisurely walk up the hill, there are four climbing sectors: “Africa”, “Pink Belt” (second tier sector), “Skinner”, “Petrel”. You can get to the sectors along marked paths and signs.
The difficulty of the trails varies from 5a to 8a+. Most trails are easy to moderate in difficulty, making Batiliman a great place for beginners and amateurs.
The length of the routes is 10-25 meters. For climbing, a 50-60 meter rope and a set of 15 guys will be enough.
Note! When training on Kush-Kai, you must wear a helmet.
Bouldering.
There are a large number of stones on the territory of the reserve, many of which are marked and classified. There are both small stones (lowballs) and large ones (highballs), which require a large number of mats and several belayers (by the way, many highballs have bolts at the end through which you can make an upper belay and work out difficult moments of the route).
There are not many simple routes (6a and below), and it also seemed to me that their difficulty was underestimated. It will be difficult for beginners, but amateurs and advanced climbers will have plenty to roam around.
All marked routes are plotted on the map along with the main landmarks (see guidebook).
The areas are mostly flat; for many routes, two or three mats are enough. It would also be useful to have small mats, the so-called “sit-down starts”. With such a mat you can cover dangerous stones that were not covered by a large crashpad.
Recreation and entertainment.
In your free time, you can stroll along the many trails that abound here.
the Batiliman nature reserve (Laspi Bay, Sevastopol), perhaps one of the most picturesque, clean and cozy places on the southern coast of Crimea. Fenced off from the cold winds by the steep wall of the town of Kush-kaya, close to the sea, Batiliman is rightfully considered a place with a mild, comfortable Mediterranean climate for relaxation. Between the sea and the rock wall grows a unique relict forest of centuries-old junipers, wild pistachios and evergreen small-fruited strawberries (the fruits of which are very tasty and nutritious from December to March)). In this forest, among a pile of stone blocks, the Kush-kaya camping park, founded by the Crimean Mountain Club in 2011, is located in cozy shady glades. The main contingent of the camping: climbers, climbers, practitioners of yoga, martial arts, children's camps for active and educational recreation, eco-residents and simply connoisseurs of a healthy lifestyle:) For the May holidays, the Crimean Mountain Club invites everyone to the CLIMBING SCHOOL, everyone who wants to master this type of activity or take the next step on the path of knowledge and skills in rock climbing. The next "SCHOOL" at the campsite will be held June 1-6, 2014!
The campsite also has a climbing machine to keep you fit in any weather.
Actually, in the article I also wanted to present a guide to Batiliman sports routes, bouldering and climbing on Kush-Kaya (the most popular), which is what I do.
Kush-Kaya is one of the most popular rock climbing and mountaineering areas in Crimea. And at the moment, perhaps the best area for beginners in climbing. Active first ascent of mountaineering routes and the appearance of climbing paths began approximately in the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. At the moment, there are about 20 climbing routes of 1B-5B difficulty categories, about 70 new and old climbing paths and trad lines, about 200 marked and classified bouldering problems, many tracks and walking trails. The great popularity of the area is due to the fact that the Batiliman tract is separated from external influences by a mountain range. The special microclimate allows you to climb rocks and climb almost all year round.
How to get there:
Coordinates of the Kush-Kaya camping park: 44° 25" 16.6584" N, 33° 40" 52.2948" E 44.421705, 33.682359 You can get there by public transport from Sevastopol. You need to purchase a bus ticket to Yalta and get off at the Laspi stop. Then follow the signs of the Mountain Club 3.5 km to the foot of the town of Kush-kaya. In the village you can often find a taxi that will take you to the campsite for little money. The nearest grocery store is located in Laspi Bay, Foros village and Orlinoe village. Banks and ATMs can be found in Sevastopol. The nearest car service station (service station) is located in the village of Orlinoe and in the city of Sevastopol.
Features of the area:
The area is characterized by warm winters and hot summers. The average winter temperature is 10 degrees Celsius. Summer heat begins in June and lasts until September. When planning ascents, it is necessary to take into account the large length of the routes on Mt. Kush-Kaya and take a supply of water or warm clothes. It is recommended to use only marked trails to ascend and descend from the top of Kush-Kaya! The territory where Cape Aya, Kokia-Kaya and the entire coastal zone are located are the subject of a nature reserve and are protected by forestry. It is prohibited to violate the boundaries of the reserve, burn fires, or leave garbage!
Features of the routes: all climbing routes are quite long. The upper sections are mostly more monolithic. This guide does not indicate some passages and route options due to their objective illogicality or danger. Full information can be found in the Classifier of mountaineering routes of the Crimea and the Carpathians.
The climbing sectors “Africa”, “Skinner”, “Pink Belt”, “Burevestnik” are protected from above by wide shelves from direct falls of stones, however, it is not recommended to be in the sports sectors without a helmet!
1. Climbing sectors.
A large number of competitions and alpine games were held on the warm rocks of Batiliman, such as the “Friendship Cup”, “Kustovsky Memorial”, Alpine Games…….. Sitnik M.A., Babich M., Vorobiev M., Nefedov S. made a great contribution to the development. , Kovalev S., Deev A., as well as many others. The team of the Crimean Mountain Club continues the reconstruction and creation of new climbing paths. At the moment, there are four climbing sectors located almost on the campsite. Approaches are made along marked paths and wooden signs. The large number of easy routes regularly attracts many novice climbers. In the summer, the sun sets in the sectors around 10-11 am, and the evening climbing set can begin at 18.00.
Balalaika F6b (Levin A. (Sevastopol), reconstruction by Lavrinenko A., Savelyev I., Kovalev S.)
It is one of the most popular and visited multipitches. The beginning of the route is marked with the appropriate name in the “Pink Belt” sector. All stations are equipped with trigger rings and chains. The distance between stations does not exceed 30 m. It is almost impossible to get lost on the route, because The direction of movement is constantly determined by the bolts.
6a+, 6a, 6a, 5a, 6a (the fireplace is walked inside), then walk through the bowl along the bolts, 5a, 6a, 6a, 5b, 6b, 6a, 5b
Equipment: rope 50-60 m, set of guy ropes
Blue wave, F6c+ (Vorobyev M. 1991, reconstruction by Lavrinenko A., Savelyev I.)
The route was originally completed in 1991 by M. Vorobyov’s team and was called “The Seventh Bastion”
Start from the metal sign with the name of the route, to the right of the “Pink Belt” sector. All stations are equipped with chains and trigger rings.
6a, 6b, 5c, 6c+, 6c (Alternate move: 6b, 6a), 5a, 5c, 5c+, 6a, 6c, 5c, 5c, 5c, 5b, 5b
There is a lot of friction climbing. You can descend the route from any of its sections.
Equipment: 60 m rope, set of quickdraws
* In the area of the 5th guy line it intersects with the “Jesus” route and then follows to the right of it.
** Routes “Left” and “Right” have a common beginning. In the area of the cornice, the routes are divided in a Y-shape.
***Intersects with route "Seven".
2. Bouldering
Batiliman is a popular winter bouldering area in Crimea. The climate allows climbers of any level to climb comfortably almost all year round. There are approximately 200 marked rocks throughout the campsite, which are marked on a map along with major landmarks.
3. Mountaineering
Active first ascent of climbing routes in Batiliman on Mount Kush-Kaya began approximately in the 70-80s of the last century and continues to this day. Odessa and Sevastopol climbers made a great contribution to the development of the region. Equipped parking lots in the Burevestnik Grotto, as well as many Soviet-era coins found in the park area, indicate the enormous attendance and popularity of the area in the old days. An interesting historical fact is that previously, on one of the hard-to-reach rock shelves above the Burevestnik climbing sector, there was even a climbing house, in the image and example of the Krasnoyarsk Pillars, which served as a refuge for many famous mountaineers and rock climbers. At the moment, there are about 20 climbing routes of 1B-5B difficulty categories.
Classic 2B
The beginning of the route is a vertical fireplace, with a large juniper tree at the base. Approach along the couloir to the left or right of the “Skuroder” climbing sector
R0-R1: 55m III - IV Vertical fireplace. There are bolts from time to time, and natural belay is also well organized. Station on a shelf in a relief or higher on a tree.
R1-R2: 50 m II+ Up the couloir with easy climbing. There are bolts from time to time. Station on bolts.
R2-R3: 50m II+ Up through the small fireplace. Exit to the ridge. Station on bolts.
R3-R4: 40 m I-II Up along simple rocks, belaying for trees. Station on bolts.
R4-R5: 60 m, III To the left through the friction bend. There are several bolts. Then go up the entire length of the rope along the ridge. Station on bolts near a tree.
R5-R6: 45m, II Up the ridge. There are bolts from time to time. Station on a shelf on bolts.
R6-R7: 45m, II Up the ridge. There are bolts from time to time. Station on a shelf on bolts.
R7-R8: 40m, II Up the ridge. Station on a shelf on bolts.
R8-R9: 40m, II-III To the left along the cracks to a convenient shelf. Insurance is easy to arrange. Station on bolts.
R9-R10: 40m, III up the slabs with large holds, then traverse to the left along the bolts. Station on bolts after the traverse.
R10-R11: 50m, III Along the rich terrain up 15 m, then on foot. Station on bolts on the Yaila.
One of the most visited routes on the mountain. It is a classic species line running along the ridge with easy climbing in all areas. It is worth noting the duration of the route, which, however, is compensated by the ease of navigation. During the peak May holidays, there are often traffic jams and crowds on the first ropes. The minimum climbing time is from 3 hours for trained climbers, up to 6-8 hours for intermediate climbers. One can note the similarity with the “Crest deuce” on the town of Sokol in Sudak in terms of the nature of the relief and duration.
Equipment: 60 m rope. Medium and large stoppers and friends work equally well. You can go without hammers.
Center of the bowl 5A (Levin A.-Babich M., Sevastopol, 1978)
Follow the positive terrain from the football field to the cornices, then traverse to the right to the beginning of the route. The first station on the bolts of the pioneers near the dried pine.
R0-R1: 35 m VI A2 (F6b) Climbing along an overhanging crack or using aid. The station is in a small niche on the bolt and its points.
R1-R2: 35 m VI A2 (F6c) Up and to the left under a small cornice to a convenient shelf. Station on a bolt and its own points.
R2-R3: 50 m VI A2 (F6b) Along a system of cracks leading diagonally to the left upward. The station is at its points.
R3-R4: 40 m V+ (F6a) Difficult section after the station and exit under the cornice to the left to the station with classic two bolts.
Access to the plateau along the Classics route (4 pitches). The length of the ropes may be disputed by other climbers. There are almost no bolts or pitons on the route, so the length of the sections can vary among different climbers as they lay out their reserve of points.
Equipment: rope 50-60 m, hammers and hooks, small and medium-sized bookmarks, small and medium-sized friends.
Rybka 5A (Stavnitser A., Khovrachev, Korolev A., Staritsky P., Odessa, 1972)
It passes through the cracks of the central part of the bowl, formed by the ridge of the 2 on the left, and the buttress of the “Egg” route on the right. First, along the flat slabs of the bowl, choosing the optimal path (as in the photo) to reach the tree. The route itself begins from here.
R0-R1: 60 m, V+ A1 From the tree, go right up and up the gap. After about 10m, the gap bifurcates, it is easier to move along the left, you will encounter pitons. Tree station + bookmarks.
R1-R2: 50 m V+ Go to the right, onto the gap, up along the gap. The gap goes into the inner corner. Before the slight overhang, go into the right gap and follow it onto the shelf. Station on bookmarks and hooks. You can climb the corner without going to the right, but it’s more difficult.
R2-R3: 50 m, V+ Up, along the crack, the crack is difficult in the lower part, further along the corner, climbing is easier. Tree station.
R3-R4: 60m, V A1 Up, easy climbing, get to the shelf. On the left side of the inner corner, up, go to the bolt station at the base of the fireplace. Up 3m along the fireplace, then along the right side of the inner corner. Exit from the corner through a slight overhang to leveling. Go boldly along the entire length of the rope to the tree. Tree station.
R4-R5: 25 m, IV From the tree up, through the inner corner, exit to the yayla.
Equipment: 60 m rope. At the bottom there are small and medium-sized bookmarks and friends. At the top, the gaps are larger and large and hexes will go. You can do without hammers.
Egg 4B (Stavnitser A.-Kholoptsev A., Odessa, 1972)
It runs along a characteristic buttress, bordering the bowl on the right. (the bowl is limited on the left by the ridge of 2).
R0-R1: 55 m, IV+ From the big tree right up, enter the inner corner. Further along the corner to a small shelf under an overhang. Traverse to the right, around the corner, to a large tree. There is a station on it. 55 m
R1-R2: 35 m, IV From the tree, along the inner corners, up onto the large shelf. Tree station.
R2-R3: 50 m, IV+ Up, along the inner corner, to the shelf at the top of the “egg”. Station on bolts.
R3-R4: 58 m, V+ From the station, descend 3 m to the left, and up the crescent-shaped crack/– the key rope. Tree station.
R4-R5: 60 m, IV+ Along the inner corner up, go to a large pine tree. From the pine tree go up to the right, go out to the inner corner, and along the corner, up onto simple rocks. Follow them to the right up to the yayla.
A route that is logical and appropriate for its category, with monolithic and clean terrain. Key areas are not pierced with bolts. It is possible to complicate the task and climb the second rope on the left. In this case, the station is placed on an overhanging shelf in the middle of the first rope. Difficulty of the left bypass: V+, A1. A vertical slot with sloping walls is supported by spacers. If you're climbing, you need good shoes.
Equipment: medium and large bookmarks, large hexes, medium and large friends work well. You can go without hammers. Rope 60 m.
Travel time: 5-6 hours
“Pants” left route 5B (First ascent: Stavnitser A., Demyanenko R., Sipkin S., Leontyev V., Odessa, 1974)
R0-R1: 43 m, 6a A2 Along the inner corner up 10 m A2 (stopper and anchor), then climb up to the niche. After traversing to the left about 5 meters and up the gap, exit onto the shelf. Station on bolts.
R1-R2: 40 m, 6a A2 Easy detour by climbing to the left past the tree, then right up to the base of the vertical crack. Up the crack, aid + climbing. From the old bolt path going up, go to the right along the new bolts with a traverse along the slab and make a station on the bolts above a small grotto.
R2-R3: 30 m, 6a Up the gap overgrown with grass, exit under a slightly overhanging monolithic wall. There is a rotten bolt path along the wall, NO NEED TO GO THERE! Traverse to the right, carefully climb about 10 meters to the bolts with the ring. This is where the Left and Right pants come together.
You can climb around 6a on the left, but you will have to do the station on your own, because There is not enough rope to get out.
“Pants” right route 5B (Golubenko M., Grishchenko Val., Grishchenko Vik., Kiyanitsa N. (Kyiv Avangard team), 1973)
The beginning of the route can be seen from afar. This is the base of a huge rift.
R0-R1: 30 m, I-II approach to the tree at the base of the break. Station on a pine tree.
R1-R2: 40 m, V From a large pine tree along a huge break to its top. Climbing on spreaders from the middle part. There are hooks. Station on three bolts at the top of the break.
R3-R4: 50 m, VI, A1 Up the system of vertical slots. Do not climb onto the old bolt path that goes to the right. The station is on new bolts at the intersection with the left option of the “Pants” route. Further routes have a common continuation.
R3-R4: 50 m 6c A1 From the station, difficult climbing along the slab to the crack, then along the crack, mostly climbing, up to the right, from under the overhanging crack, traverse to the right to the inner corner, and along the corner to the shelf. Station on bolts.
You can approach the station on the left side along the 10 m gap A2 (anchors), but this is more difficult.
R4-R5: 45 m 5s A2 On the slab with blind slots, on aid, enter the inner corner. Follow it to the shelf. Along the shelf 5m to the left and up, along the right side of the inner corner. Station on bolts.
R5-R6: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the gap to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang to reach the wall with bolts. Along the wall with difficult climbing you reach the Beiser exit. Station on bolts.
The route is well paved with new bolts, especially the middle part, making it difficult to get lost. From the middle it intersects with the left trousers, and on the last rope the path is marked by Haymaking bolts.
Equipment: 60 m rope, anchors and small lugs for aid, medium lugs and medium buds. Hammers, hooks.
Senonkos 5B (Nadtochy S., Voloshanovsky M.)
The route begins 20 m to the right of the large break on which the “Right Pants Leg” route begins.
R0-R1: 35 m, V+A2 From the arrow knocked out with a punch, straight up along a thin crack for 10 m, then along the slab in the direction of the bolt. From there, go up to the left, onto the shelf under the cornice. The cornice runs on the right side (there is a bolt). Station in the grotto.
R1-R2: 30 m VI A2 From the station up the left wall of the grotto 5 m using aids (bolts, sky hooks), then climb through the crack with difficult climbing to reach the overhang. Go through the overhang along the bolts to the station.
R2-R3: 30 m V+A2 Along the crack, then along the inner corner upward by climbing, in some places using aid. Station on 2 bolts in front of the overhang.
R3-R4: 50 m VI A3 Go up the steep crack, exit onto the shelf. From there, traverse to the right, to another gap. Follow the gap up to the left, through a slight overhang, and exit onto the shelf. Station on bolts.
R4-R5: 50 m VI A1 From the station up the gap to a small tree. Further up the corner. Go around the cornice on the left, then up through a slight overhang to reach the wall with bolts. Along the wall with difficult climbing you reach the Beiser exit. Station on bolts.
Previously the route had category 6A. There is a lot of stationary iron on the route. Overall the route is safe. Started on 01/06/94 by Simferopol climbers S. Nadtochi (Terrorist) and M. Voloshanovsky (Michel). Completed in May 1994 by Terrorist solo. The route is a natural watercourse, because of this the cracks are clogged with earth and grass, therefore, the Terrorist called his route “Haymaking”.
Travel time 6-8 hours.
Corner 5A (Nosov A. – Kalinichenko M. (Sevastopol), 1975)
The route was repaired by A. Lavrinenko’s team in April 2013. The stations are equipped with new bolts and rappel rings. The route consists of an internal corner of varying steepness, running mainly in struts. Sometimes there are small overhangs.
R0-R1: 35m V+ The first station on the large shelf at the start of the route. The first cornice is on the right. Then to the left through the buzzing break to the beginning of the vertical inner corner. Then up the inside corner. Station with bolts.
R1-R2: 25 m V+ Up through a slight overhang (F6a). The location of the semi-hanging station on friends and large bookmarks in front of the cornice is not very convenient for two due to the high friction of the rope.
R2-R3: 40m V+ The cornice goes around to the left (F6a). Further climbing becomes easier. The gap becomes positive and leads to the right into a large fireplace. Station bolts on the breakaway left side of the large fireplace. Lots of rope friction!!!
R3-R4: 10 m VI A2, 10 m V+, 10 m VI A2 From the station up 10 m along the microrelief by climbing (F6b) or using aid A2. The terrain for belaying is poor. A relief skyhook and perhaps an anchor will come in handy. Then either to the right through the overhang onto the yayla, or an unpleasant traverse to the left under the cornice. The left option is easier.
A very logical and beautiful line. In some places the line wobbles, causing friction on the rope. Hammers and hooks are a must. Large embedded elements work well. Difficult last rope.
Large fireplace SE wall 3B (Tkachenko G., 1978)
The beginning of the route is the base of a large fireplace, which is clearly visible even from the beach.
R0-R1: 25m, II The first station on bolts, common with the corner. To the right along simple rocks into the base of a large fireplace.
R1-R2: 40 m, III+ From the base of the fireplace straight up the right wall. Sometimes old hooks are found. Tree station.
R2-R3: 30 m (20 m III; 10 m V) From the tree the line goes to the right beyond the bend. Poor hearing. Through a slight overhang to vertical rocks with an internal corner on the left. It’s better not to climb into the corner, although old hooks are visible there. From this place, go down to the right and go out to a convenient platform with a large tree.
R3-R4: 25m IV+ Along the oblique crack to the left of the tree, up to the right, go out under a small cornice. He walks around the crack on the right. Then up to the tree. Station on a tree or on your own.
R4-R5: 30 m (25 m III; 5 m V A1) From the station, go up to the right, along the inner corner, then through a 5-meter vertical wall, into the inner corner, and along it to the top. Tree station near the edge.
Impressions: Long approach, includes sections that are not typical for routes of the third category. Small and medium-sized embedded elements work well. You can climb without hammers.
"Integral" 5A (Gorbunov A. – Kholoptsev A. (Odessa)
The route got its name because of the characteristic gap at the top of the wall. The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad parking lots. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line begins almost above the Burevestnik sector.
R0-R1: 60 m III+ To the left, up a faint inner corner to a large juniper. Station on a slab on a tree.
R1-R2: 15 m IV, 15 m V+, 10 m II From the tree, go to the right into the inner corner, which turns into an obvious gap. Beautiful climbing and a psychologically challenging climb to the shelf. Station (anchors, bookmarks) 10 m to the left standing on a shelf on a slab at the base of the inner corner going up.
R2-R3: 50 m IV+ Along the inner corner to the left up to the overhang, then to the right of the overhang along the crack to a small grotto. The station is in the grotto at its points (bookmarks, anchors).
R3-R4: 60m V Logical climb up the inside corner. Lots of living rocks, grass, soil and lichen. The station is at its points in the gap (hexes).
R4-R5: 40 m V+ 10 m V, A0 Up the inner corner leading into an overhanging fireplace. The fireplace is held open. Backpacks will get in the way. Then a complex overhanging corner of 10 m with 3 bolts and a hook. You can climb 6b+ - 6c, or A0. Station on new bolts.
R6-R7: 40m III Simple climbing up a logical gap. Then to the right along the positive relief to the yayla. Under the top, the possibilities for organizing belay are limited: about 10-15 m. Station on a tree yayla.
Overall the route is strenuous. Requires organizing your own stations. Large embedded elements and hexes work well. Hooks and hammers are a must. At times there is a lot of live rock, grass and lichen.
Parabola 3B
The route passes along the right side of the Southeast bastion of Kush-Kaya. The beginning coincides with the beginning of the Integral route. The approach to the beginning of the route begins above the Leningrad parking lots. The path goes along the shelves to the right side of the wall. The line begins almost above the Burevestnik sector.
R0-R1: 45m III The beginning is common with the “Integral” route. From the shelf, climb 20 m along the inner corner, then go right to a large tree. Further up to the base of the inner corner. Complexity is unevenly distributed.
R1-R2: 40 m II From the tree station along simple slots to the inner corner, which leads to a shelf with two junipers. Tree station.
R2-R3: 45m V Along the inner corner 15 m up, then to the right to the tree to the right under the yellow cornice.. Key rope
R3-R4: 40m III Up positive rocks of medium difficulty onto a small shelf.
R4-R5: 45 m III To the left past the overhang along a system of cracks onto a large shelf.
R5-R6: 40 m II To the right, choosing the easiest path to move to the yayla. Station on bolts.
A difficult route in its category, requiring the ability to navigate the terrain well. The relief is very rich. Not recommended as first threes. There is a chance to go to more difficult rocks. You can go without hammers.
Through the sole on the right 4A (Vorobyev M., Nesterov V., Pavlov Yu. (Sevatopol), 1995)
To begin the route, you need to go through the “Africa” sector and go left onto the scree going up.
R0-R1: 45m II Start along the scree, going to the right. Tree station.
R1-R2: 45 I Up along light rocks. Station on a tree.
R2-R3: 40m I To the right towards a large tree along light rocks. Juniper station.
R3-R4: 25 III Along the inner corner to the shelf with the tree.
R4-R5: 40m III Diagonally to the right exit into the bowl. Tree station.
R6-R7: 45 m III Along the positive relief and the gap upward. Tree station.
R7-R8: 45 m III Up the crack. Tree station.
R8-R9: 45m III Up to a convenient shelf with trees. Juniper station.
R9-R10: 45m III You need to go down from the shelf and go to the right of the fireplace. There is no need to go into the fireplace. Tree station.
R10-R11: 5m V, 25m III From the tree up the overhanging gap 5 m. Key area. Then simply climb to the exit to the yayla
Equipment: standard set. There is little stationary iron on the route. It is advisable to have hammers.