Large Basque city. The Basque country reveals its secrets. complete list of posts on this route
Who are the Basques and where do they live? We don't have many associations with the word "basque". Of course Guernica. Not so much, however, the ancient city, swept away in 1937 by Luftwaffe bombs, but rather the great canvas of Picasso. Certainly, THIS- an organization that terrorized Spain for half a century and demanded independence for the Basque people.
From “peaceful life” - San Sebastian Film Festival And Basque, a wide decorative frill that is sewn into a dress or sewn to a blouse along the waistline. This, by the way, is not a linguistic coincidence at all, but a traditional detail of the Basque costume, which was brought to the world catwalks by the great Basque Cristobal Balenciaga. Moreover, perhaps, a sad love story between a frivolous Spanish singer and a Basque youth - remember the popular film in the USSR “The Queen of Chanticleer”?
The true custodians of ancient Basque traditions are the inhabitants of Euskadi, a small territory in northern Spain.
Basque- an ancient European people, whose origin is one of the greatest mysteries of our time. Their ancestors are called the Iberians, Aquitans and Celts, and the most daring researchers claim that the Finno-Ugric peoples and even the tribes of the North Caucasus took part in the formation of the nation.
The Basques are a divided people. In the 16th century, the borders of Europe cut their ancestral lands right along the mountain range, so about a tenth of the nation lives in the French department of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques. Several million more Basques are scattered throughout the countries of the New World - Argentina, Mexico, Brazil. The true custodians of ancient Basque traditions are the residents Euskadi. We know this land as the Basque Country - a small territory in northern Spain, between the Bay of Biscay and the Pyrenees.
How are the Basques different from the Spaniards?
This question can be answered in the words of the hero of the film “DMB”: “To put it mildly, everyone.” American diplomat and writer Washington Irving wrote that a real Spanish grandee is dark-skinned and cannot be taller than three cubits - that’s about 150 cm. But a real Basque, on the contrary, is tall, strongly built, fair-haired and light-eyed, with facial features more Scandinavian than Iberian. “It’s because we descended from the Celts, didn’t submit to the Moors and eat a lot of milk,” joke residents of the Basque capital Vitoria-Gasteiz.
About the Celts version. The truth about the Moors. But about milk - a clear understatement. Euskadi's gastronomy is so rich and dynamic that it tells better than any research about the history, traditions and mentality of the Basques - from the times of Roman rule to the present day.
Sea Inside
By the way, about the Romans. Having conquered all of Gaul and most of the Iberian Peninsula, they somehow surprisingly failed to conquer the Basques. There are many explanations for this, but the funniest is offered by the inhabitants of the ancient Donosti, aka a world famous resort San Sebastian: the Roman legions retreated because they were unable to bear the smell of fish, which literally covered the entire country - the Basques used seafood not only for food, but also to fertilize the fields.
Fresh fish has been a staple of Basque cuisine since ancient times.
Until recently, fish was the basis of Basque cuisine. The Bay of Biscay, which the Basques call Cantabrian sea, generously supplied the inhabitants of Euskadi flounder, horse mackerel, sardines, anchovies, oysters, stingrays and other aquatic fauna. And since until the middle of the last century the Basques completely lacked the culture of storing food for future use - except, perhaps, anchovies, olives and salted cod - the cheapest fish actually went to feed tomatoes.
Basques generally do not like to salt, smoke, dry or dry. The main gastronomic principle of Euskadi is absolute freshness. And he, in turn, means seasonality. Spring, for example, is the time for stewed mackerel, steaks made from young bulls are especially good in the fall, and in winter they do not prepare complex vegetable side dishes. And this is the reason why authentic Basque cuisine is extremely uses spices sparingly: Why distort the taste and aroma of the freshest products?
The pride of Basque cuisine - arroz con leche- thick rice porridge, cooked in milk, cooled and sprinkled with cinnamon or flavored with thick yogurt, drizzled with honey.
Fish and seafood still play a huge role in Basque cooking - even now, when the sea is not as generous as a hundred years ago. Most seafood now comes to Euskadi from Galicia. The time when fish was cheaper than meat, alas, has passed. Therefore, the menu of Basque restaurants includes more and more dishes from beef, pork And Chicken. Basques prefer beef in the form of well-done steaks - despite the fact that they are generally not fans of fried foods. But pork, lamb and poultry are stewed. Stew- generally one of the favorite Basque genres. Its constant ingredients are tomatoes, peppers, onions and garlic.
Cheeses is not Euskadi's strong point, although they do have a few varieties worth considering. But milk, cow and sheep!.. Dairy desserts, in particular, arroz con leche- thick rice porridge cooked in milk, cooled and sprinkled with cinnamon or flavored with cuajada, a type of thick yogurt, drizzled with honey - the real pride of Basque cuisine.
Men's Games
On Sundays, the narrow streets of ancient Basque villages are filled with a dull, rhythmic knocking sound. It comes from the kitchens where they cook talos- thin tortillas made from corn flour. This is not a difficult matter, but it is dangerous. You pour very hot water into the flour and knead the dough with your fingertips. Then you form a flat cake, tapping the piece of dough forcefully - you cannot stretch it! - the upper part of the palm. A few precise blows are enough for an experienced cook; after the third talo, beginners wince and rub their wrists.
Flour,water, salt- it seems like nothing complicated. But firstly, a thick flatbread is a bad housewife, and secondly, you need about fifty of these flatbreads for the Sunday meal. That’s why water is boiling in a vat and women’s hands are knocking on the dough spread out on a wooden board.
Thin flatbreads made from corn flour, talos, are eaten with thick yogurt and stewed sausages accompanied by a leisurely conversation and a glass of aromatic txakoli.
The flatbreads are fried in a dry hot frying pan until “golden bubbles” form, placed in a clay dish and covered with a linen towel. When the men arrive, hot talos will be on the table and eaten with thick Basque yogurt and stewed sausages - accompanied by a leisurely conversation and a glass of aromatic txakoli. This slightly carbonated dry white wine is the specialty and pride of the Basque country. It is made from indigenous grape varieties ondarrabi and is almost entirely sold on the domestic market. Chakoli is drunk not from glasses, but from wide, pre-chilled glasses.
In fact, in Basque cuisine they reign men. But they don’t cook talos, saving their skills for more intricate dishes. “Women already rule the world,” says the owner of a jewelry store in San Sebastian, “let them at least leave us the kitchen.”
Not homemade, of course - we are talking about the so-called chokos, closed gastronomic communities, which began to appear in Euskadi a century and a half ago.
A huge pot is being prepared at a gastronomic club meeting marmitaco, tuna stewed in tomatoes with potatoes.
As a rule, club members meet once or twice a week in a small room with a kitchen and dining table, where they cook, eat, drink and sing. Women were never accepted into these communities. Yes, they didn’t insist: during Franco’s time, it was in such gastro clubs that the backbone of ETA was forged. Now that the Basques are enjoying the benefits of greater autonomy, from bilingual signage to tax preferences, everything has changed. In conditions of gender equality, only the bravest people leave the “No Women Entry” sign on the doors of chokos.
The community usually consists of 50-80 Human. The administrator, treasurer and purchaser are elected positions. Anyone can cook, but, as a rule, it is never just one person: cooking for Basques is a social matter, so several people usually run the kitchen at once. A huge saucepan "piperrads"(vegetable stew made from peppers and tomatoes) or marmitaco(tuna stewed in tomatoes with potatoes) can be created faster with six hands. Kitchen choco- this is a kind of bridge between homemade food and haute gastronomy. It was here that traditional family recipes in the 70s of the last century were transformed into stunningly daring nueva cocina vasca- “new Basque cuisine”.
Fashionable verdict
The young woman was not young - "new Basque cuisine" almost fifty years old. A scientific experiment that was once transferred to a restaurant kitchen is no longer so exotic. We know it under the name “molecular gastronomy,” and this term does not at all delight one of the founding fathers of the entire movement. “It arouses curiosity rather than appetite,” says Juan Maria Arzak, the seventy-two-year-old patriarch of Basque gastronomy and owner of the most fashionable restaurant in San Sebastian.
Beef paper, bread mousse, fish in the form of foam - you can taste the wildest fantasies of Basque chefs throughout Euskadi. San Sebastian, Bilbao, Vitoria-Gasteiz- There are more “haute cuisine” restaurants in the Basque Country than in the whole of Spain. And getting into them is easier than it seems. And all because the financial crisis changed the trend: simple food, unpretentious establishments and familiar tastes are back in fashion. That is why at the peak of fashion now - pintxos bars. First of all, what is a pintxo? These are snacks, conceptually the same as tapas, but Basque. Name pintxo comes from the Spanish word pincho- literally "spike", in a culinary context "skewer", which is used to hold together a multi-layered sandwich. Pintxos can be a quick snack or a full meal, but they are almost always works of art. A strong foundation of traditional cuisine, the imagination of Basque cooks and the freshest ingredients - this is how delicious pintxos are made. “New Basque cuisine” has enriched the windows of pintxos bars with such exotic dishes as a tiny veal chop with a poached quail egg or gratinated foie gras in a dried cherry tomato. However, those who want to understand the character and temperament of the Basques should try classic pintxos. For example, famous "hildas": pickled or fresh peppers, anchovies and olives collected on one skewer. This simple and impressive snack was named after Rita Hayworth's character in the film Gilda. And it perfectly reflects the Basque idea of an ideal woman - hot like pepper, salty like tears, soft and tender like olive oil.
Pintxos bars are at the peak of gastronomic fashion. The name comes from Spanish pincho, the “skewers” that holds a multi-salted sandwich together.
Basques also love their pintxos bars for the atmosphere of absolute freedom: you go up to the counter and choose what you like - five or six different pintxos for one bite. In recent years, Basque pintxos bars have begun to open throughout Spain. But the best, of course, are still in Bilbao and San Sebastian.
And another typically Basque entertainment that should not be missed - the so-called cideria. Apple cider in Euskadi is almost more popular than wine: inexpensive to produce, it is still prepared using technology and recipe of the Middle Ages- no artificial additives, only apples and pears. Cider is stored in wooden barrels, and every self-respecting cider house has several of these barrels the size of a truck. They are built into the wall, and the “filling” process looks like this: one person opens the tap, and a line of people wanting to drink passes in single file next to him, filling glasses. Typical Basque cideria- these are long wooden tables, huge “common” dishes with meat, cod or sausages, cheese cut into large slices, bread and cider without restrictions.
What to see
Isis Winery in Alava
The Spanish architect who built it Santiago Calatrava mired in lawsuits: it turned out that he designed his works of art without taking into account climatic conditions. At this winery, for example, due to temperature changes, winds and rainfall, the roof began to leak. And since it is made of cedar and aluminum sheets, the repairs cost the owners of “Isis” two million euros. That, however, does not prevent Isis from remaining one of the most impressive attractions of Euskadi.
The winery building was designed without taking into account climatic conditions, but this does not prevent it from remaining one of the main attractions.
Biscay Bridge in Bilbao
The bridge over the Nervion River is a unique engineering structure consisting of two parts: the bridge itself and a platform suspended from below, which maneuvers, moves and operates like a ferry. Such bridges - they are also called “flying ferries” - were popular at the beginning of the last century. Biscay is the oldest and is still used for its intended purpose. A walk across the bridge is a great opportunity to get a bird's eye view of Bilbao.
Hotel "Marquis de Riscal" at the winery of the same name, Elciego.
This fantastic building, masterfully integrated into the landscape of a medieval village, was built by the architect Frank Gehry. Walls made of golden sandstone are crowned with intricately curved ribbons of steel and titanium. Everything about this hotel is five-star - from the interior of the rooms to the prices. But a weekend with a tour of the Marquis de Riscal winery, a walk through the vineyards and a spa with wine therapy is worth it.
What to bring
A dry, slightly carbonated wine that is almost impossible to buy anywhere except the Basque Country. Chakoli is usually white; there is very little red produced, and it is significantly less popular. It is made from Ondarrabi grapes and served chilled in wide glasses. A simple and honest wine that perfectly quenches thirst, ideal for hot summer days.
Cheese "Idiazabal"
A hard sheep's milk cheese named after the village of the same name in the Basque province. Gipuzkoa. This cheese is made from milk from strictly defined breeds of sheep - lacha And carranzana. This piquant, delicate and light cheese is the perfect traveler, especially if you buy a lightly smoked head of cheese.
Savory and delicate, Idisable cheese is made from sheep's milk and is easy to transport, especially if you buy a lightly smoked head.
Basque linen products
Flax has been grown and processed on the Iberian Peninsula since the Iron Age. The Basque national costume - both men's and women's - certainly includes a shirt made of thick linen fabric. You need to look for linen items in specialized stores: from inexpensive napkins with hand embroidery to “serious” things like curtains and clothing items.
Corn flour
If in the USSR corn was considered the “queen of the fields,” then among the Basques it is the “queen of the mountains.” And, of course, the kitchen. Basque fine corn flour is considered the best in Europe and is ideal for baking jam pies and talo flatbreads.
Basques... Who are they? A people who are trying to achieve world recognition through violence? Or are they a national minority that is fighting for the observance of fundamental rights and freedoms in relation to them?
Geographical location and ATD of the Basque Country
Historical area Basque Country located on the territory of two states at once - Spain and France. In Spain, the Basque Country is an autonomous region located in the north of the country and has access to the Gulf of Cantabria. In the northeast it borders with France, in the east with Navarre, in the south with the autonomous regions of La Rioja, Castile and Leon and in the northwest with Cantabria. The autonomous region consists of three provinces: Alava, Guipuzcoa and Vizcaya, which in turn are divided into municipalities.
Capital of the Basque Country - Vitoria city with a population of about 220 thousand people. At the same time, it is the administrative center of the province of Alava with a population of 300 thousand people. The largest in terms of population is Vizcaya (1.1 million people) with its capital in the large industrial center of Bilbao (350 thousand people).
The province of Guipuzcoa is home to about 690 thousand people. Its administrative center is San Sebastian, world famous for its international film festivals (180 thousand people). Thus, 2.1 million people live in the Basque Country with a total area of 7.2 thousand km2.
With the French part the situation is somewhat different. The fact is that the Basque Country does not have its own administrative borders on the territory of this country, but occupies only the western part of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques department, which is located in the south of the Aquitaine region. The Basque Country includes the entire French district of Bayonne, as well as part of the territory of the administrative district of Oloron-Sante-Marie.
Basque Country, map
The evolution of the concept of "basque"
The first mentions of the Basques living in the north of modern Spain date back to the beginning of our era, when the Romans dominated the Iberian Peninsula. They were the ones who introduced the concept "Basconia", which belonged to the territory of the modern autonomous region of Navarre, inhabited by people speaking .
At the turn of the 5th-6th centuries, when the territory of modern Spain and Portugal was ruled by the Visigoths, the Basque tribes were forced to unite around Navarre to resist the raids of tribes penetrating the peninsula through the Pyrenees. Around the same period, the concept of “Basques” fell out of use, which was replaced by the term “Bascons”. To this day, the Basques themselves continue to call themselves Bascons.
Castle of the Kings of Navarre in Olite
Somewhat later, they began to distinguish between independent Bascons and those under the rule of the Franks. The first were called Navarrese, while the concept of "bas-end" came to refer only to the second type of Basque. Gradually, the term “Basco” was transformed into “Gascon”. Hence the name of the historical region - Gascony, which is located in the south of France. So the well-known musketeer d’Artagnan had Basque roots.
In the 11th-12th centuries, the Kingdom of Navarre reached the peak of its power, so all its inhabitants began to be called Navarrese, and the word “Bascon” finally fell out of use.
Only since the 19th century has the familiar concept of “basque” (from the French word "basque"), which had previously been used for a long time in relation to residents of France who spoke the Basque language.
Basque Country - history
The Middle Ages were characterized by a continuous struggle for dominion in the Iberian Peninsula. Just remember the Reconquista, which lasted almost eight centuries (beginning of the 8th - end of the 15th centuries). Therefore, the boundaries of provinces and kingdoms were constantly changing. It is obvious that all administrative changes also affected the territory inhabited by the Basques.
Until the 11th century, the Basque provinces existed relatively separately: each of them had its own laws and had its own administrative bodies. In 1016, when the border between the kingdoms of Castile and Navarre was established, the Basque Country became part of Navarre. This situation continued until 1379, when the Basque Country became part of the Kingdom of Castile in return for the king's promise to maintain local government. This agreement was carried out until 1876, when, as a result of a change of government, all privileges previously granted to the residents of the Basque Country were abolished.
Karl Steuben. Battle of Poitiers 732
The last century went down in Spanish history as a period of fierce struggle for the rights of national minorities. On April 14, 1931, King Alfonso XIII of Spain, without formally abdicating the throne, emigrated from the country. A stage has arrived called in the historiography of Spain the “Second Republic”. A Provisional Government was formed, which ordered the transfer of local power to republican committees. The founding Cortes adopted a new constitution on December 9, 1931, which declared Spain a unitary state, but recognized the regions' right to broad autonomy. In order for the Statute (Basic Law) of the Autonomous Community to be approved, a number of conditions had to be met. As a result, in accordance with the procedure prescribed in the constitution, two Autonomous Communities were formed in Spain: in 1932 - Catalonia(its Autonomous Statute was confirmed in 1936) and in October 1936 - Basque Country. But the period of autonomy for Euskadi lasted less than a year, only until 1937.
Basque nationalism
The roots of the nationalism with which many modern people associate the Basque Country go far back. Indeed, for a long time, the Basques of the Iberian Peninsula were either independent (until the 11th century) or, on the basis of mutual consent on the part of the ruler and the inhabitants of the Basque Country, had relative autonomy in decision-making (until 1876). Perhaps it was the habit of living “freely” that formed the basis of the protest against the infringement of rights and oppression of the Basque culture. Note that in this case we are talking about the Basques of Spain, because it is they who are more active in restoring their rights, especially in the second half of the 20th century.
General Franco
In 1936, a civil war broke out in Spain between the Republicans and the Nationalists (or Falangists), led by General Franco. One of the points of the Phalangists' political program was the creation of a single state and the abolition of all autonomies. During the civil war, the Basques were divided into supporters of Franco (residents of the autonomous region of Navarre and the province of Alava) and those who supported the Republicans (province of Vizcaya and the western part of the province of Guipuzcoa). The latter soon had to pay for their “wrong” political outlook.
One of the symbols of the oppression of Basque culture was the village (and now the city) Guernica, which is located a few kilometers northeast of Bilbao. On April 26, 1937, by agreement between Franco and Hitler, fascist planes from the Condor brigade bombed Guernica, followed by a five-day blockade (only fire trucks were allowed into the village). In just a few hours, according to official figures, about 200 people died (although some historians believe that the number of victims is in the thousands). As a result, the whole world shook. This was the first attack during the Civil War aimed at exterminating civilians.
Guernica after the bombing
News of the bombing of the Basque village instantly reached France, where Picasso was living at the time. He was so shocked by this event that he immediately began work on a painting called “Guernica.”
ETA - "Basque Country and Freedom"
Since 1939, with the coming to power of the nationalists led by Franco, the autonomies were abolished. A ban was introduced on teaching, publishing books, and simply on the everyday use of their native language by national minorities.
At the end of the 1950s, national movements in opposition to the authorities began to emerge in Catalonia and the Basque Country. They fought for the restoration of autonomy and the protection of ethno-national identity. The Francoists viewed national movements as an attack on the unity of the Spanish nation, and therefore brutally suppressed them. Repression by the authorities led to the fact that since the 60s, Basque nationalist organizations switched to terrorist methods of struggle.
The armed struggle against Francoism was led by the Basque underground organization ÝÒÀ (ETA - Euskadi Ta Askatasuna, “Basque Country and Freedom” (Basque)). Its main demand was the granting of independence to the Basque Country. The “social” sections of the ETA program, as well as the principles of the future political structure of the Basque Country, were set out only in general terms with an emphasis on the development of democracy, civil rights and freedoms.
"Basque Country and Freedom"
ETA carried out its first terrorist attack in 1968; the head of the Political Police Department, M. Mansa-nas, was killed. As a result of a raid carried out after the terrorist attack, several members of the underground organization were arrested. In 1970, a trial of 16 Etarovites took place in Burgos, during which six were sentenced to death. The defendants accused the dictatorship of violating the basic rights and freedoms of the Basques. After the verdict, the leaders of many countries, including France, Belgium, Italy and the Vatican, asked for clemency for the convicted. Franco had no choice but to agree. The death sentence was commuted to a long prison sentence. Thanks to the openness of the trial, ETA gained international fame. According to British researcher R. Clarke, “police repression played a key role in the replenishment of ETA with new fighters.” In 1973, the ETA organization carried out one of, perhaps, the largest terrorist attacks, as a result of which the Chairman of the Spanish Government, L. Carrero Blanco, Franco’s closest associate and his intended successor, was killed.
In 1975, with the death of Franco, the dictatorship fell. In 1978, a new constitution was adopted, and in 1979 the Basque Country received the Statute of Autonomy. It would seem that ETA’s terrorist activities should have stopped at this point. Unfortunately, the government's hopes for ending the “war” were not realized. Attempts on political figures continued.
In March 2006, the Basque separatist organization ETA officially announced an indefinite truce and called on all Basques to work together to find ways to end the conflicts. But already on June 5, 2007, she announced the end of the truce.
Communication with the Basques revealed a generally negative attitude towards the methods of struggle of the ETA organization. You can often hear a similar phrase from different people: “THIS is a bunch of aggressive fanatics who want independence. We want peace...” However, such a sincere confession was often followed by another, frightening phrase: “...Only this can only be discussed among family or close friends, otherwise we will have troubles...”
Recently, the atmosphere throughout the country became tense following the arrest of six people accused of organizing terrorist attacks carried out by ETA. This is especially clearly visible in the Basque Country. On the one hand, you can often see posters on the streets with the words “We need peace.” On the other hand, demonstrations have become more frequent, turning into riots, organized in support of prisoners. Their participants are confident that the people behind bars were not involved in the recent terrorist attacks. Although one of these activists, Arthur, admitted to me that the accusations against several prisoners were justified.
Anna Zakharova
Baskonia, Basque Country or Euskadi (Pais Vasco, Euskadi) is one of the most unusual historical regions not only in Spain, but throughout Western Europe. Lying in the north of the country, in the western spurs of the Pyrenees and the eastern part of the Cantabrian Mountains, this autonomous community differs markedly from the rest of Spain both in ethnic composition and language, as well as in climate and level of industry. Euskal Herria, as the Basques themselves call this land, includes three regions - the Basque Country itself (Pais Vasco), the regions of Gipuzkoa and Bizkaia, plus two vast provinces inhabited by Basques, in France and Navarre (administratively the latter are not part of the Basque Country). For many centuries the Basques have preserved their ancient culture, which they brought from their historical homeland in time immemorial, the most likely location of which is considered to be the territory of modern Georgia (but this is only one of the theories). The Basque language - Euskara, or Euskera - is considered one of the oldest and most mysterious in Europe, since it incorporates ancient word forms of the Caucasian peoples, and later Iberian and Aquitanian dialects of the Iberian Peninsula, and many terms that have no analogues in any of the known languages of the Earth. At the same time, the Basque language does not have a standard pronunciation (the number of dialects is actually equal to the number of settlements), but the differences between the dialects are small. All this together allows us to classify it as a group of Proto-Indo-European languages, that is, those that were formed long before the emergence of the modern linguistic space.
The origins of the Basques themselves are equally mysterious. Genetically, they are almost not related to any of the modern peoples of the Mediterranean, which is easily traced even at the level of blood composition. Equally original are local traditions and customs, folk cuisine, and especially dance and song rituals. At the same time, the mystery of the origin of this people and their language has not yet been revealed.
Despite the fact that this is the most industrialized region of the peninsula (and therefore one of the richest), the nature of the interior of the Basque Country is little affected by humans - neat and quiet villages coexist here with lush mountain vegetation and a wild rocky coastline, the transport system is excellently developed, and the proximity of the border supports trade and tourism. All this allows us to classify the Basque Country as one of the most interesting regions of Spain.
The city is the largest settlement and administrative center of the province of Vizcaya, as well as one of the largest ports in the country.
15 km from the center of Bilbao to the north lies the popular beach area of the Sopelana area (there is also a “wild” beach, and in the Playa de Ametara area there is a nudist area). 30 km southeast of Bilbao, the lands of the Urquiola Natural Park begin, covering the slopes of the green Durangesado mountain range (the highest point is Mount Amboto, 1330 m).
The administrative center of the province of Gipuzkoa, the city is located in the very northeast of the Basque Country, on the shores of La Concha Bay near the French border.
To the west of San Sebastian begins the picturesque rocky coast of the Costa Basca - the birthplace of the sparkling wine "txakoli" and the region of many ancient cities. Getaria(Getaria) is famous for the magnificent Church of San Salvador (14th century), the Balenciaga Museum (the famous designer was born in this city) and the Elcano Fiesta (Juan Sebastian Elcano, who was born here, was the only member of Magellan’s crew to return home after the famous circumnavigation). Sumaya(Zumaia) - with its beaches Playa de Itsurun and Playa Santiago. Near the city Aspeitia(Azpeitia, 16 km south of Zumaia) there is a grandiose basilica www.santuariodeloyola.com Sanctuary de Loyola (XVIII century), built as a monument to Ignacio (Inijo) Lopez de Loyola, who was born in these parts, better known as Saint Ignatius of Loyola (1491 -1556). IN Markina-Shemein(Markina-Xemein) there is the Pelota Academy (pelota is a national sport, a kind of lapta), and in Sciorza Bolivar(Ziortza-Bolivar) - Simon Bolivar Museum, as well as a beautiful monastery and Romanesque church (XVI century).
Around San Sebastian, the historic region of Guipuzcoa (the smallest in Spain) is a centuries-old center of Basque language and culture. Here you can visit the medieval city Tolosa with its traditional carnival (Tolosa is the only city in the country where this traditional holiday, incorporating all Basque traditions, was held even during the period of the ban on the use of the Basque language introduced by the dictator Franco) and an extensive historical center, the picturesque mountain slopes of the Sierra de Aralar and Sierra de Urquilla, Aransazu monastery (XV-XX centuries) - the main place of Basque pilgrimage, a prosperous city Ordisia with a well-preserved historical center (XVI century), a village famous for its old mansions Segura, "Basque Toledo" - town Onati(75 km south of San Sebastian) with its wonderful Baroque buildings, the village Bera de Bidasoa with its unique stone buildings (XVI-XIX centuries), as well as the open museum of the sculptor Eduardo Chillida in Hernani(7 km south of San Sebastian).
Immortalized by the tragic painting, Picasso is the traditional center of Basque nationalism and separatism.
5 km from the city is the Paleolithic cave complex of Cueva de Santimamine, a picturesque village Ohm with its “painted forest” (the work of the artist Augustin Ibarrola), as well as the Mundaka watershed just to the west, declared by UNESCO as a cultural and natural reserve of global importance (it contains the most diverse set of ecosystems in the Basque Country and a real haven for millions of migratory birds from all over Europe) .
The official capital of Euskadi and the province of Alava (Arab) - (Spanish Vitoria, Basque Gasteiz, officially Vitoria-Gasteiz).
The Basque Country or Euskadi is a Spanish autonomous region located in the northeast of Cantabria, bordered to the north by the Cantabrian Sea and France, to the south by La Rioja and Castilla and Leon, to the west by Cantabria and to the east by Navarre. It consists of the provinces (historically freely formed territories) of Alava, Gipuzkoa and Vizcaya, uniting 251 municipalities: 51 in Alava, 88 in Gipuzkoa and 112 in Vizcaya. Previously, the provinces that comprised the Basque Country were known as the Basque Provinces, the Forales Provinces, the Free Provinces (until 1841), the Basque Provinces or simply the Basques. In fact, the name Autonomous Basque Region (ABV) is used quite often, especially within the autonomy itself and in Navarre, although the names Euskadi and Basque Country have also been used historically: since their foundation in the 19th century. the region was called Euskadi, until 1897 - the Basque Country. In addition to the above names, “Basconia” and “Euskal Erria” are also used.
Navarre has the right to become part of an autonomous region, observing all the provisions provided for in the Spanish Constitution and described in the Code of Laws, if this right has not previously been exercised. The relationship between the two autonomous regions is completely different after the so-called "Transition".
The Basque Country covers an area of 7,234 km2 and has a population of 2,189,534 (INE, 2016) with a population density of 300 people/km2.
The capital is Vitoria, located in Alava, where the Parliament and Government of the Basque Country meets, although the largest city is Bilbao.
Geography
Most of the Basque Country is occupied by mountains - the Basque Mountains and the enchanting Cantabrian Range in the south. The highest mountain is Tologno, the Pyrenees Spurs can be found from Navarre. The highest point is Mount Aitxuri, located at an altitude of 1.551 meters above sea level in the Iskorri Natural Park. In Euskadi four climatic zones can be distinguished: Atlantic in the north, sub-Atlantic (Western Alava Plains and Alaves Plain), Mediterranean and, in the very south, in the Ebro and Rioja Alavesa valleys, with a dry and hot continental-type climate. The region participates in UNESCO's World Water Assessment Program (WWAP), which has resulted in the establishment of more than 300 information centers whose task is to develop a report on the situation in the region.
Flight time:
(flights to Bilbao airport)
from Moscow - from 6 hours 15 minutes. (1-3 transfers)
from St. Petersburg - from 6 hours 5 minutes. (1-3 transfers)
from Kazan - from 10 hours 25 minutes. (1-3 transfers)
from Yekaterinburg - from 10 hours 40 minutes. (1-3 transfers)
from Novosibirsk - from 12 hours 10 minutes. (1-3 transfers)
Current time in Vitoria-Gasteiz:
(UTC +2)
Administrative structure
The Basque Country consists of three provinces, historically established, with independent governance:
- Álava (305,459 inhabitants according to NIS 2007). Capital: Vitoria.
- Guipúzcoa (694,944 inhabitants). Capital: San Sebastian
- Vizcaya (1,139,863 inhabitants). Capital: Bilbao
The Basque Country is divided into 251 municipalities, 51 in Alava, 88 in Gipuzkoa and 112 in Vizcaya, and is subdivided into 20 districts. The territory of Alavra, in turn, is divided into seven districts (cuadrillas in Castilian, eskualdeak in Euskera). The districts of Guipuzcoa and Vizcaya, however, are not divided into administrative regions.
Euskadi, or the Basque Country, is one of the places that can safely be classified as one of the most unusual historical regions not only of Spain, but also of Western Europe as a whole. Inhabited in ancient times and having managed to preserve its identity and culture, this region is worthy of close attention. By the way, neither the history of the inhabitants of these lands nor the history of the origin of its language have yet been revealed.
Basque Country - where is it?
The region that this article will focus on is often referred to as Green Spain. Its territory, stretching along the Atlantic coast, is located in the northern part of the country and is separated from the rest of the territory by the Cantabrian Mountains. And it is “green” due to the abundance of forests, a lot of rain and a mild maritime climate.
The Basque Country is an autonomous community that includes three provinces with their own capitals: Alava (Vitoria-Gasteiz), Vizcaya (Bilbao), Gipuzkoa (San Sebastian). Each of the named administrative centers is a city that can charm and make tourists fall in love with it. However, the ancient settlements scattered in the valleys between the mountains, and the stunning landscapes with mountains covered with greenery, and the blue of the ocean will also not allow you to forget the original region, forcing you to come here again and again.
The Mystery of the Basque Language
In the north-east of Spain, where the Basque Country is located, bilingualism reigns. By the way, the second language indigenous to this area, Basque (Euskara or Euskera), has nothing in common with Spanish.
Some scientists are inclined to believe that he came here from Georgia. In its structure, ancient word forms were found that belong to the group of Caucasian languages, as well as to Iberian and Aquitanian dialects, which would seem to confirm this conclusion. But many terms and names that have no analogues in any known language on Earth still do not allow us to put an end to the study of the history of the origin of this dialect.
Bilbao is the best city in the world
Basques value the new and respect the old. And this can be confirmed by the amazing history of the capital of the province of Vizcaya, the city of Bilbao, founded in the 14th century. Back in 1980, it frightened tourists with its neglect and dirt: a closed port, shutdown factories, a catastrophically polluted river... But the new mayor performed a miracle, and in 10 years the city became beautiful, convenient for both residents and guests, from of which there is no end here now.
The Basque Country, whose attractions can be listed for a long time, has been enriched with new stunning art objects. And this was facilitated by the decision of the city authorities to invite the best European architects for construction.
Thus, the original entrances to the Bilbao metro are called “fosterite” in honor of the famous English architect Norman Foster (by the way, you can take the metro here all the way to the ocean). And in the very center of the city, on the site of abandoned wine warehouses, Philippe Starck designed a cultural and sports center, which is included in all textbooks on architecture. The building of the Mariot Hotel is a masterpiece of the Mexican Ricardo Legfetta, and designed by F. Sorano and D. Palacios, it is recognized as the best parliamentary building in the world. No wonder that in 2010 Bilbao received the title of the best city in the world and the World City Award!
San Sebastian
80 km from Bilbao is another large city of the Basque country and the capital of the province - San Sebastian, which is home to about 200 thousand people. The road between the settlements is amazing - it stretches along the ocean shore, opening up a beautiful panorama of the ancient region. And San Sebastian itself looks like a shining shell located on the shores of La Concha Bay.
By the way, it is considered one of the most beautiful and expensive cities in Spain. 100 years ago it became the summer residence of the kings, which naturally pushed its development, and now San Sebastian is another capital, the administrative center of the province of Guipuzcoa. The city shines with cleanliness and pomp. And since 1953, the famous film festival has been held here annually in September. In July, jazz lovers come here from all over the world.
Vitoria-Gasteiz - a city for walking
The capital of the Basque Country, Vitoria-Gasteiz, can safely be called a city where walking is a national sport. And this is not surprising, because there are 30 km of pedestrian streets, 100 thousand trees and 45 m² of green space for each resident. Such conditions have led to Vitoria becoming a city with the highest quality of life.
On sunny days, locals waste no time - they fill the narrow cobbled streets, strolling between the many shops, or visit the small, delicious-smelling pastry shops. After all, where there is coolness, everyone loves sweets very much, and this is an immutable law!
The city administration has provided more than 4 million bicycles for use by its residents to replace cars. For this purpose, in Vitoria there are special parking lots where you can take a two-wheeled vehicle and then leave it after a long time of use.
A ring of parks was created along the entire perimeter of the city, and thanks to this, settlements of nutria, deer and wild cats appeared just 4 km from the city center.
Sights of Vitoria-Gasteiz
In 1181, Sancho VII of Navarre awarded the settlement of Vitoria the title of city. Its medieval layout has since undergone some changes, but, nevertheless, has survived to this day almost untouched. New buildings appeared in place of old buildings, but the street markings remained the same.
The oldest building in the city is the Utrada de Anda tower, built in the 13th century. In addition, the city has four beautiful Gothic cathedrals: St. Mary's, built in the 12th century, the Church of the Apostle Peter (14th century), as well as San Vincento and San Miguel (14th century), where the patroness of the city Belaya found shelter Mother of God.
Once in the capital of the entire Basque Country, one cannot help but visit the Artium Museum of Contemporary Art, museums of natural history, archeology, Alava weapons and sacred art. By the way, there is even a museum of playing cards in the city, since this is where their production is established.
There is also a lot of interesting things to do around the capital
The beauty of the suburb also plays a very important role in the special charm of Vitoria. After all, almost every quiet and cozy village around the capital has its own historical monument. It could be an ancient stone mansion, decorated with a proud family coat of arms, or a colorful church. Thus, in the village of Mendoza you can visit the very interesting Museum of Heraldry, and in Salvatierra the attention of tourists will definitely be attracted by the Church of Santa Maria and the ancient fortress.
The Basque Country is rightfully proud of its wine-making traditions. Therefore, having been here, you cannot help but visit the Rioja Alavesa region, famous for its vineyards. It is especially interesting here in September, during the colorful Harvest Festival, which brings together not only local residents, but also numerous tourists.
How to relax in the Basque Country: reviews from tourists
People in Euskadi love holidays, and that’s probably why there are a lot of them there. Holiday fairs, carnival processions, shepherd dog competitions, bull races, tomato fights - these are just a small part of what can be seen in this seemingly measured and calm region.
People come to the Basque Country for the holidays from all over Spain and other European countries, because, perhaps, only here you can see so much fun, endless joy of life and confidence that everything around is beautiful. The Basques know how to have fun like no one else, devoting themselves to it with all their hearts, and those who have attended the city festival at least once strive to come here again.
Where to visit when visiting the Basque Country
When planning to go to Euskadi, be sure to plan your route, since there are a lot of places in this region that simply cannot be missed without deigning your attention. Bilbao is one of them, but the Basque Country is able to offer other unique objects:
- the chapel of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, located on a high cliff near Bilbao;
- the majestic Cathedral in San Sebastian, like two peas in a pod, similar to the famous one;
- the longest labyrinth underground, in the vicinity of Oñati;
- improbable winery Marcus de Richa, erected
Don’t forget to ride a bike through the quiet streets of medieval Vitoria, feast on octopus in one of the cozy restaurants of Getaria, taste the best wines in Laguardia, test yourself in surfing in Mundaka, discover a huge number of secluded wild beaches on the Costa Basque and understand what this region has become for to your loved ones and acquaintances. Have a great holiday in the Basque Country!