Konstantinovo - Yeseninsky Shiraz. Rybnoe
... Yesenin’s father and mother plowed the land. Such a peasant fate was also expected by logic for children. But no. They chose a subtle soul for the boy up there. Thoughtful and tender. His parents are peasants made of earth and dung, and he sees how “the scarlet color of dawn was woven on the lake” and “the lilac weather sprinkled the silence with lilac.”
…S. Yesenin Museum-Reserve- “a most valuable monument of history and culture” - amazed us. Unpleasant.
…We listened to a little memorized speech of the young guide. An absent look and a mechanical presentation of the memorized text, repeating word for word the brochure I just bought for 10 rubles. Just a plate with eyes.
The birthplace of Sergei Yesenin is the village of Konstantinovo- located ~ 20 km from Ryazan. A huge poster with a picture of a poet will prevent you from missing a left turn from the main road. The road passes through the town of Rybnoye, where everyone really praises Beekeeping Museum from the only (!) research institute in our country that studies honey and bees (Pochtovaya St., 22, 10-16, except Sat. and Sun.). There you will breathe in the honey aromas, they will show you beehive-church(which was made by a beekeeper from Vyatka), beehive-bell tower, honey decks “Tsar”, “Tsarina” and “Princess”, By the way, there you can also sign up for beekeeping courses :) or purchase a “collection of seeds of nectar-bearing plants” :). And also you can try on beekeepers' clothes and twirl the honey extractor, see a hive from Africa. The building is sunny yellow with a honeycomb pattern on the wall.. The excursions are conducted by the curator of the museum, Alexey Dmitrievich Gorin. A rare person who is passionate about honey and bees.
We entered Konstantinovo itself by touch. At the fork behind Rybny, another Yesenin portrait-poster flashed, indicating the direction, and this was the end of the limit of landmarks.
Therefore, explanations - at the village you need to turn left, in the village itself - left again. A huge parking lot filled with buses and cars, left wooden house - Cashier-Souvenirs.
It turned out that need to buy different tickets, upon request to visit - Literary Museum (1), Kashina House (2), Yesenin Family House (3), Zemstvo School (4). Here I must say that we arrived in Konstantinovo on an incredibly hot June day. Coming out of the cool salon, we immediately found ourselves in a hot oven. The backpacks instantly stuck to their backs, and it was a pity to look at the abandoned car - it was practically smoking under the pressure of solar lava. Therefore, the issue of visiting was resolved quickly - Kashinsky and his family at home, school, we couldn’t stand much more. Looking ahead, for a comprehensive acquaintance with this iconic place, I will say that It’s better, of course, to take tickets to all exhibitions. The map on the fence helped us navigate the area, but here, in principle, you won’t get lost.
But.
The S. Yesenin Museum-Reserve - “a most valuable monument of history and culture” - amazed us. Unpleasant. Perhaps this is the first of these memorial places that we visited that missed the spiritual component. It is not clear where they put it.
As soon as we entered the territory, crows cawed thickly and rustily above our heads. There are a lot of them here. And this immediately leaves an unpleasant and uncomfortable feeling. Why not disperse them? After all, this is not a landfill (with which there is a direct association), but a Yesenin museum!
In front of the fence - a brisk sale of souvenirs(of which I would leave only the paintings and move the rest of the accomplices further away), behind the fence there is a pandemonium of people.
For some reason, right next to the house (and against the background of trees with crow's nests) there is a giant iron figure of Yesenin, and in no way similar to him. And the dissonance with nature is terrible. The author of the plan, sculptor Bichukov, installed this work in 2007. The question immediately arises - Why in this place? There is a queue at the monument to take photographs of yourself “against the background”. Moreover, everyone rushes to hold on to the polished little finger. Like something dreamed will come true. There are no comments for this picture. Moreover, I don’t think that Yesenin will be offended by me for these words.
There is a traffic jam at the door of the tiny hut. We barely made it inside. Yes, she is clean, pleasant, peasant - but - not a single explanatory inscription on the wall! Whose room, whose clothes, etc. - There are no explanations at all.
At the same time, it’s hot, stuffy, and crowded with people. Can't adjust the flow? Falling out of the house, let's go see the thatched barn, around which people are also crowding, And again you think - what happened here?
The only thing, I remember and liked the huge poplar tree at the gate entrance- it is believed that Sergei Alexandrovich himself planted it.
And on a bench nearby, one young man with a guitar in his hands was selling CDs with songs performed, incl. and their own, based on Yesenin’s poems. On the copy we bought, he reverently and proudly signed - Alexey Verny.
The School nearby (also a recreated building) has the same story.
Kashina's house (finally an original!), literally passable. Because again, nowhere, even the photographs on the wall!, are there any explanatory captions. Again they create an inferiority complex for single tourists. Either guess xy from xy, or take a tour. Therefore, glancing over the chairs and furniture, you quickly pass through the entire small number of small rooms (the second floor is closed). By the way, we listened to a little speech from the young tour guide, which was thoroughly memorized. An absent gaze and a mechanical presentation of the memorized text, repeating word for word the brochure I just bought for 10 rubles... Just a plate with eyes.
What’s worth coming to Yesenin for is the view of the “Ryazan expanse”, which once eclipsed the Persian Shiraz ( http://www.museum-esenin.ru/web.gallery/, cm. "Landscapes of the village of Konstantinovo"). The observation deck is located right behind the Literary Museum. A place of great simply beauty opens up to your eyes. Krutoyar, Oka, sky, distance. Some kind of lunar landscape. I have never seen hills lying on the ground so bizarrely - literally frozen waves. Green. Somewhere, very far away, a huge herd of cows was picturesquely dazzling in a far, far away meadow. This is where you definitely get a feeling of belonging to Yesenin’s thoughts. He stood under this sky, looked into this vast distance, walked along these velvet hillocks.
Just think about it.
Father- Alexander Yesenin, mother Tatiana. Their marriage was concluded not for love. She would give birth to 14 children, four of whom would survive. Sergusha, her second child(1895) from this second marriage. Katya and Shurochka will be born in 10 and 16 years. Peasants. The land was plowed. Such a peasant fate was also expected by logic for children. But no. They chose a subtle soul for the boy up there. Thoughtful and tender. His parents are peasants made of earth and dung, and he sees how “the scarlet color of dawn was woven on the lake” and “the lilac weather sprinkled the silence with lilac.” Yesenin lived greedily and colorfully. Golden head. The hair - “taken from the rye” - is dark blond with a bright golden tint. Eyes like forget-me-nots, blue turquoise. He loved many women, but he only loved everyone - “by the way, at one with others on earth.” But truly only one - Rus', Ryazan - his native land.
Between the landowner-neighbor Lidia Kashina(to her 30
) and Yesenin (to him 21
) there was a romantic feeling. Poem "Green hairstyle - girlish breasts" dedicated among several others to her.
Lidia Ivanovna Kashina has a strange path in life.
Born in 1886. Millionaire's daughter Ivan Kulakov, who made his capital from apartment buildings in Moscow. In 1904 ( 18 years) - graduated from the Alexander Institute of Noble Maidens with honors. In 1905 ( 19 years) married teacher Nikolai Kashin. They have two children - Yura and Nina. In 1911 ( 25 years) receives a huge inheritance from his father. Now she is not just a lady, but a millionaire. The affair with Yesenin happens in 1916 ( 30 years) - “I don’t wait, I don’t beg, I don’t curse, and I don’t lie to my poor heart. But I can’t forget the sweetness of her kiss, I can’t.”…. In 1917 - the Revolution takes away the estate from her. 1919 - she already works as a “secretary-scribe” in the Red Army Communications Directorate. In 1920 - typist at the publishing house of the Trud newspaper. In 1923 (37 years old) - meets with Yesenin in Moscow. Here Nadezhda Volpin describes her: “Definitely a provincial girl. In general appearance, she is a rural teacher. Dull brown hair hangs down over his forehead and ears. The face is slightly cheeky, strong-willed. The nose is hooked, but purely Slavic.” In 1937 ( 51 years old) wanted to go to the Caucasus to heal her health using “the money she earned with her own hands for the first time,” but... her path on earth ends.
She gave a piece of her femininity and destiny to the heroine of the poem “Anna Snegina”. And although the image of the main character in it is collective, her house is now called the “Museum of the Poem “Anna Snegina”.
There is a lot of literature about Yesenin. I liked memories of Nadezhda Volpin"Date with a friend." One of the best sites about the poet: esenin.niv.ru - there is a lot of information here. Among others, here is a curious author and his thoughts - V. Sorokin, "Farewell to Myths". Here is the official website of the museum in Konstantinovo - museum-esenin.ru. It would be a good idea to print out the materials in the “Exhibition” section if you come here. Then don’t repeat our information-deficit experience. I bought a few books in the store where the museum ticket office is located. Ryazan. Monument to Yesenin and cafe “Stable of Pegasus”