Guide to new Russian wines. Red and white: "Russian Wine Guide" has been published. What about “innocent” establishments?

After reading a guide to the wine world, that awkward moment when the waiter brings a wine list and you don’t know what is customary to serve with borscht will disappear from your life. At the same time, you will understand how to respond to the sommelier’s request to rate the first sip if it’s too late to hide under the table.

Anastasia Prokhorova (Simple Wine News) · Alexander Kanygin

“The best wine is the one that is most liked by the one who drinks it,” said the Roman polymath writer Pliny the Elder (they did not sell wine to the younger).

If all the wines seem the same to you, and the wine list causes a mixture of panic and despondency, don’t worry, you’re not alone. We also didn’t understand wine, although all our lives we really wanted to, suspecting that it was interesting and tasty. But after creating this journalistic masterpiece with the help of experts, the entire editorial team is talking only about appellations and assemblages. It turned out that the science of wine is not so complicated if you know the key to it. He's in front of you. Implement the seven steps described below, hang the table from this article on your refrigerator and live a new aristocratic life.

In this new life, you will learn to choose really interesting and not necessarily expensive items among the consumer goods batteries in the supermarket. It is unlikely that you will recognize all the wines. There are hundreds of thousands of them in the world, and even the highest category tasters, who spit in a bucket all day and complain about their difficult work, only have time to try a few of them. But you will no longer get hung up on the three or four that someone once advised you. Try, compare, share your impressions. Wine, like you, the older you get, the more interesting it becomes. The same cannot be said, for example, about beer.

Step 1

Many terms and concepts in the wine world make a beginner feel confused. In vain!

Remember three parameters for your first acquaintance with wine.

1) The grapes from which it is made

Although there are more than 8,000 grape varieties in the world, wine is made from the so-called technical ones. You've probably heard about the most popular of them - Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Nebbiolo, Merlot.

2) The region where he grew up

Common grape varieties are grown in almost all wine-growing regions of the world. Shiraz, for example, may be from California, Australia or New Zealand - this should not scare you. Of course, among the regions there are always those that specialize in a specific variety, and it would be nice to start getting acquainted with the classic region for it, but now we are talking about the very basics.

You will learn more about it a little later, now it is important that it is by the rating that you will be able to determine whether the wine is worthy of you or not. A high rating does not at all guarantee that you will like the drink specifically. Finding “the one” is our goal.

Start to understand the taste of wine

By tasting several wines at the same time, grouped according to some characteristic, you will compare them with each other, gradually formulating for yourself which style of wine you like best.

It’s better to love him not alone or even together, but in company, so that you can chip in five bottles at once. These can be wines from different grape varieties; wines from the same variety, but from different regions; wines of one producer of different levels (from inexpensive to top-end). Further - cooler: wines of the same region, but from different zones - appellations (say, Bordeaux from Saint-Emilion, Pomerol, Pauillac, Margaux and Graves). The transition to the major tasting league will someday be marked for you by a “vertical line” - the same wine from several harvests. Why not diversify boring home parties with a punch and piano variations with such a program?

Now go to the store and buy 5 bottles of wine.

Paradoxically, important information for identifying a wine is contained on its front label. But which of this will be written larger and which smaller is a matter of design and integrity of the manufacturer. We will focus on the most important points.

The grape variety from which the product is made

Wines can be varietal, that is, made from one grape variety, and assemblages (aka blends) - this is when several varieties are mixed. It’s worth starting your acquaintance with the world of wine by studying the differences between grape varieties. And every time you buy wine, you must first understand what kind of wine it is.

Appellation

The grape variety is not always indicated on the labels of European wines. The French, Italians, and Spaniards call their wines not “Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot”, not “Sangiovese”, and not “Tempranillo”, but “Bordeaux”, “Chianti” and “Rioja”. They believe that all decent people should understand that Bordeaux is a combination of Cabernet and Merlot, that Chianti is made from Sangiovese, and Rioja is made from Tempranillo. But who knows what they think? You didn’t grow up in the wilderness of Burgundy! Bordeaux, Chianti and Rioja are names of wine by appellation, that is, by place of origin. The varietal composition of the wine is indicated on the Russian back label (on the back of the bottle). This is the law! The country and region where the wine comes from.

Many grape varieties are grown in almost all wine-growing regions of the world. But among the regions there are always those that specialize in a specific variety.

Manufacturer name or brand

Always on the front label. You need to install it to view wine ratings. There are tens of thousands of wine producers in the world; hundreds of winemakers can make wine of the same name, and their level is different. For one, Chianti is good only for scaring away guests; for another, it is a great wine. These differences are not always visible in price. That’s why it’s worth looking for ratings or asking for advice.

Proper name of wine

In addition to the grape variety and/or appellation, individual wines are sometimes given a proper name. Something like "Bull Power" or "Secret". These names do not convey any useful information; they simply help to remember the wine better.

Harvest year

It's vintage or millesim. You need to study millesim tables only for wines of the highest categories. Don't touch them for the time being. But if you have a bottle in your hands that does not indicate the vintage year on the label, return it to the shelf. For imported dry wines this is not comme il faut at all. Exceptions are sparkling wines and port wine (the real one from Portugal). They are mostly assembled (mixed) from wines of different vintages, and this is their special feature.

Step 2

Meat party and varietal reds

Throw a brutal party with meat. Steaks, grill, sausages, burgers - anything, but face control must ensure that pork does not sneak onto the table.

Collect a set of five varietal red wines. Beginners like bright and not too acidic varietal wines: powerful, high-proof (13–15°), with fruit or jam aromas and a “meaty” texture (when you put this wine in your mouth, it seems that you can chew it).

Step 3

Tasting order

While non-drinkers prepare appetizers, try a little of each wine with friends and discuss them. It would be correct to first provide the company with theoretical knowledge about the varieties/regions/producers that you are trying. Give all wines ratings - for example, on a 5-point scale. Or simply distribute by place: first, second, third. See how scores correlate with prices. We already said that price is not the main argument when choosing wine, right?

To consolidate what you have learned, you need to wrap the unfinished bottles in foil, number them, mix them and, tasting blindly, try to guess which wine is which. If it doesn’t work out right away, don’t be sad: it will work out on the third or fifth try. This is receptor training. Then all the tasting material can be transferred to the table and tasted with food.

Tasting

Remind everyone and yourself that the purpose of tasting is not to giggle or even enjoy it, but to remember a particular wine.

Remember, taster!

The right glasses are a must. Each participant needs several of them so that they can compare wines. Passages like “Pour some into this one for me, there’s white at the bottom” are unacceptable.
Monitor the serving temperature of the wines. The red ones should be at cellar temperature (well, remember what the temperature was in your grandmother’s basement), the white ones are important not to overfreeze - optimally 11–13 degrees.
The room should be well ventilated. Smoking is completely prohibited during the tasting! Red wines should be opened half an hour before tasting to allow them to open up.
A glass of wine should be filled no more than a third full.
It is correct to hold a wine glass by the stem; under no circumstances should you clasp the bowl of the glass with your entire hand.

█ First of all, you need to smell the wine well: the aroma (aka bouquet) is the most important thing. You will have to sniff for a long time and with concentration, sticking your nose deep into the glass and drawing in the aroma so that your nostrils contract and flare. Think that your goal is to remember this smell. Focus on him. After you try a dozen wines, you will understand what kind of associations suit you best to remember the aromas.

█ Contact with oxygen causes wine to “open up.” After sniffing the wine in the glass, vigorously swirl it counterclockwise for 5–10 seconds so that the wine swirls in it. Smell it again. Do you feel that the aroma has become more intense?

█ Wine connoisseurs pay attention to its color. It is better to look at it over a white tablecloth or a sheet of paper, tilting the glass almost horizontally. Wines from different grape varieties differ in color. Pinot noir is a clear, light and reddish wine, malbec is more purple, cabernet sauvignon is ruby. In general, color does not provide any information about the quality of a wine (unless the wine is cloudy, which means it is spoiled). But people who love wine also enjoy looking at it and the play of shades. And, by the way, sediment in wine is, as a rule, not a drawback. Some red wines are almost opaque - point the glass at a bright light source and see what's inside.

█ Now you can taste the wine. Place the drink in your mouth to engage as many receptors as possible, rinse your mouth intensively and with sound. For greater effect, open your lips a little and draw in air through your teeth, with a whistle. From the outside, this may not look very aesthetically pleasing, but this is what people do to enjoy the taste of wine. Do you feel that it seems more saturated now?

█ Actually, at professional tastings, wine is not swallowed, but spat. But we won’t advise you on this. Before each new sip, focus on the aroma again for a couple of seconds.

█ After you spit out the wine or swallow it, evaluate how pleasant the aftertaste remains in your mouth. It should not be cloying or sour. The aftertaste can even be counted in seconds. The norm is from 5 to 10 seconds. More - this is the major league.

█ If you are tasting, as we advised you, several wines at once, compare them by color. Compare the flavors of all before tasting them. Say out loud how they differ, this will help you more accurately express your emotions.

█ Once the glass is empty, smell it again. After good wines, an empty glass retains a pleasant aroma for a long time.

Step 4

Light reds with pizza

The wines from the first set are not suitable for everyone. You can’t drink a lot of them: you quickly get tired of the tannin and excess - your teeth stick together, your throat gets sore. This is where you start to crave more sour, fresh reds that go well with Mediterranean food.

Step 5

Airy whites with seafood or vegetables

Having warmed up with two red sets, we move on to tasting white wine. In the case of white wines, the technological techniques that wine connoisseurs love to discuss are more obvious, namely aging in oak barrels. Sauvignon blanc aged in oak is quite clearly different from unoaked sauvignon blanc.

Where and how to buy wine?

You can also go to the supermarket. Moreover, a consultant is rushing towards us, spinning the key to the safe with elite champagne on his finger. These smiling guys often understand wine no better than you, and sometimes they are even representatives of a wine trading company that needs to sell a certain wine. Do not listen to them. Unless they showed me where the shelf with white wines from New Zealand was. Look for bottles that have “Sauvignon Blanc” written large on the label. Choose those that suit your price. Read what is written on the back labels. It's great if you come across the name of a Russian importing company there that you already trust - it always makes the choice easier. If you're a stubborn guy, use a smartphone. Many wines have QR codes that will take you to the manufacturer’s website or importer’s page with additional information. And there are a lot of applications for mobile devices that recognize wine by its label and display its “popular rating”.

Errors

Before you buy wine, you need to know at least something about it. Never take the first one you come across with a cute label.
Wines in bag-in-boxes (in boxes) may be perfectly acceptable for picnics and other drinking activities, but not for teaching wine consumption. You can drink them, but you shouldn't love them.
The vast majority of wines that are worthy of your love are dry wines. You need to understand them and with them.
Don't trust any medals on bottles. There are many wine competitions in the world. All have their own rules and standards. Many wines can claim that they have been named the best in the world according to such and such a version, but this is all nonsense.

Well, since you have gone so far in your interest that you have installed one or even several (here, like with wine - it’s better to try and choose) applications proposed by us, stop buying wine in supermarkets. It just seems like there is a lot of it out there; in fact, the selection in large chains is quite boring and monotonous. Even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc may simply not be there; we are already silent about Grüner Veltliner. Our path lies in wine boutiques, or enotecas.

You may be put off by their appearance. It seems to you that only sommeliers go there. Nonsense! Many wine stores belong to wine trading companies and stock their entire range, starting with democratic lines. And prices there may be lower than in supermarkets. In any case, the choice there is more interesting. As a rule, enotecas employ more competent and cordial consultants - cavists. Here you don’t have to scan the Internet - just ask the cavist for the necessary data and find out not only about the type of wine, but also something interesting about the manufacturer. The best wines are those behind which there are specific people - winemakers.

Well, the most advanced way is to buy wine directly from importing companies or in their online stores. In Moscow and St. Petersburg, this is easy to do, and in other large cities, some importers have their own representatives (you’ll just have to wait longer for the order). From the companies you will receive not only the best prices and the best selection, but also complete, correct information about the wines.

Step 6

Dense whites with a powerful bite

Rich white wines are paired with grilled salmon or with cream sauce, baked pork, carbonara pasta, chicken, and sushi.

Step 7

Fine reds in the company of cold cuts

When you feel ready for more serious wines, reward yourself with a tasting of wines from the most prestigious regions. Each has its own system of internal appellations of the "grand cru" classification (the French coined a special term to designate vineyards producing exclusive varieties). You don't need a complex or rich meal to keep up with all the intricacies of these wines. Limit yourself to meat delicacies: Bayonne ham, jamon, salami, bresaola, cold roast beef, foie gras pate. We do not recommend experimenting with cheeses yet.

When choosing wine, the easiest way is to focus on international wine ratings (in fact, not all good wines have ratings, but most do).

There are many ratings, we advise you to stick to the classics - these are the American Wine Advocate (associated with the name of the world's most famous wine critic Robert Parker) and Wine Spectator. Both have websites and mobile apps for subscribers. Subscription to the sites is paid, but if you're serious, you can spend $50 to have access to Wine Spectator's 290,000 wine ratings for a year. Advocate is a less affordable resource ($99 per year), and it specializes more in expensive wines, although you can find estimates of $10 bottles there too.

Both services use a 100-point scale. If the wine costs less than 1,500 rubles and has a score above 85 points according to Wine Advocate or Wine Spectator, take it. For cheaper wines, a score above 80 is quite normal. Wines with scores above 90 points and reasonable prices are the best find. All other things being equal, choose those wines that have a WS or WA rating. Finding out the rating is easy: in the search bar of the application you need to enter the name of the manufacturer (one of the inscriptions in large print on the front label), grape variety, or appellation, or proper name of the wine. When it comes to wines under 2000 rubles, the vintage year is not very important for understanding their level. That is, if you are looking for a wine rating for 2011, but only 2009 is available, you can safely navigate it.

Next on my own

Of course, an intelligent company where everyone would like to taste wine and discuss assemblages relatively sober and dressed is not the most common phenomenon. But you won’t be left alone in your quest to understand the secrets of bouquets and tastes. There are wine clubs for people like you. They can be with an enoteca or without permanent registration. The club organizer is usually a charismatic character who knows a lot about wine. He purchases a conceptually selected line of wines from 10–20 samples, rents a room, gathers those who want to chip in little by little to cover the costs, and during the tasting he explains to the people what’s what. Get involved in the wine blogosphere, make friends with famous wine bloggers (Denis Rudenko, Bisso Atanasov, etc.), and it is likely that you will find your own club. Or will you organize it?

If a club has not yet been found, attend tastings that are conducted professionally. At the Enotria wine school, which has branches in Moscow and St. Petersburg, in addition to a rigorous course for future sommeliers, they conduct light evening sessions for everyone. During three months of classes twice a week, students are given the opportunity to try about 250 different wines, including many French grand cru, Super Tuscany, Barolo, champagne and other expensive wines. If you wanted to try all these wines yourself, having bought a bottle of each in a store, you would have spent no less than half a million rubles on it. The portions here are, of course, tasting, but the experience accumulates! The process of exploring the world of wine is in many ways similar to learning a foreign language or learning to play a musical instrument: at first it requires some effort, but once you learn, you begin to enjoy it. A true wine connoisseur loves all good wines. He loves both white and red, and knows how to find his wine both in Europe and in the New World. He doesn’t have a complex about wines that cost 300–400 rubles, because he knows that they can be of very high quality. He feels which of the rose wines is more suitable for this or that girl. Sometimes he indulges in aged vintage champagne or a little Sauternes with different cheeses. Developed taste is the ability to choose wine and food to go with it according to your mood, season, time of day and, most importantly, according to your interlocutor.

Wine selection tables

We admit that some readers, no longer able to restrain the emotional impulse caused by the description of wines, bouquets and slices of jamon, went to the nearest enoteca without finishing reading the article. For them, we publish tables by which everyone can choose the right wine. Using them is very simple: when choosing wine in an enoteca or ordering it from a wine trading company, say: “I am interested in wine from such and such a variety (column 1) and from such and such a region (column 2).” And casually add: “And as typical as possible.” And also: “What is its rating according to Parker or Wine Spectator?” Column 4 describes the typical aromas for each wine, which you will try to smell... how? That's right, nostrils flaring strongly.

Gamarjoba, genatsvale!

Every time you go to a new place, you first start searching in a search engine: attractions, where to go, what to visit, etc.

In Georgia and Tbilisi, enogastronomic pleasures play an important role, why should we be deceived?

And we decided to write a big guide (for you and for ourselves “for the future”) back in the spring and asked the “experts” about their favorite and not always obvious places. We didn’t expect then that there would be so much information and it would take so long to digest it.

Lisa, but different. On the general map, her advice will be placed in a separate layer.

Shilda

Since we are talking about Georgian wine, it would be a crime not to go to the wine region of Kakheti. The trip is not at all tiring and takes one day: see the Bodbe Monastery, then take a walk around the city of love Sighnaghi, just find out why it is called that. And for lunch and wine tasting, be sure to stop by the new Shilda winery. Incredible wines and real Georgian food: extraordinary khinkali, assorted pkhali, khachapuri on a spit, kebabs... everything is delicious here.

Address: Kakheti, Shilda village

Tsangala's wine shop & bar

A small wine bar next to the legendary Gabriadze Theater. Here they know everything about Georgian wine; more than 60 wineries are represented, including those with a small circulation, up to 1000 bottles per year.

There are only 3 small tables, and around there are shelves with wine; in the summer there is a small veranda.

There is also a piano opposite the bar, right on the street, and in the evenings you can often hear your favorite melodies.

Very atmospheric and soulful.

Address: 12 Ioane Shavteli St, T’bilisi 0105, Georgia

In general, 5 wine places are 5 regions of Georgia: Imereti, Kakheti, Kartli, Racha-Lechkhumi and the Black Sea coast. Each region has its own wine history, its own signature wines and its own philosophy.

But that is another story. 🍷

What about “innocent” establishments?

Stamba

A cult place from the creators of Rooms Hotel. All the cream of society, fashionable guys, guests of the Aviator Hotel and all this in one beautiful stylish square. Great cocktails, a casino nearby and just an atmospheric place.

Address: 14, 0108 Merab Kostava St, T’bilisi, Georgia

Cocktail Factory

And again the territory of winery #1. Russian guys - cocktail magicians and wizards - made an ordinary Margarita - “a million scarlet roses” with a sauce by the Georgian artist Pirosmani.

Address: 1 Vasil Petriashvili Street, T’bilisi, Georgia

Chachatime

Probably the most alcoholic establishment in the city. Under a degree 🔥, it’s obviously not possible to leave the walls of this establishment vertically, because you’ll have to try a lot and only increase the degree (50,60,70,80).

Address: Geronti Kikodze 3, Tbilisi 0132

Marani Restaurant & Bar

The area of the sulfur baths, a viewing platform, a fashionable establishment for the “locals” under the auspices of the winery of the same name.

Address: 11 I.grishashvili St, T’bilisi, Georgia

Lolita

And again, a cult establishment from Rooms Hotel, next door to Stamba. Outdoors you can combine three in one: cocktails, food + gawk at local fashionistas. Yes, and show yourself.

Very trendy and hipster place. In the morning the DJ is already playing, and Adjarian khachapuri (boat) catches your eye from the Georgian cuisine. By the way, it's delicious. Egg dishes are also very tasty and beautiful. White wine, made using a distinctly European method, is also good. Prices are not humane by Tbilisi standards.

What is the “Russian Wine Guide”? This is an annual project to study wine products, which Roskachestvo creates together with the Ministry of Industry and Trade and the Ministry of Agriculture of Russia. To develop a National Catalog of Quality Russian Wines, a commission of leading Russian and international experts, sommeliers and tasters has been formed.

During the first large-scale study in 2018, based on global experience in compiling wine ratings, the expert group assessed 320 samples of wines from five main categories from Russian grapes.

The experts had to answer fundamental questions. Is there quality wine in Russia? Is it true that Russian wines of good quality are expensive?

We remind you that alcohol abuse is harmful to your health. We also inform you that this material is not recommended for viewing by persons under 18 years of age.

Principles of selection and purchase of wines for the “Russian Wine Guide”

When planning the Russian Wine Guide study, several basic principles were adopted:

only wines from Russian grapes are studied;
all wines selected for research must be affordable;
preference is given to wines produced in large quantities and widely represented in the retail trade.

Raw material base assessment

One of the common consumer myths about Russian wine is: “All the vineyards in the country were cut down under Gorbachev, and wine is made from “powder” and “wine materials.”

First of all, experts from Roskachestvo, with the support of the Ministry of Industry and Trade of Russia, the Ministry of Agriculture of Russia and the Federal Service for Regulation of the Alcohol Market (FS RAR), assessed the raw material base of Russian winemaking.

Over the past few years, the Ministry of Agriculture has been providing subsidies for the establishment of new vineyards in the southern regions of Russia. And their area is approaching 90 thousand hectares. Since 2016, more than half a million tons of grapes have been harvested annually in the Russian Federation. Of course, not all of these volumes go to wine production. They include both table grapes and grapes that are used for the production of cognac (in 2018, more than 45 thousand tons of grapes were used for these purposes). According to estimates by the Center for Research of Federal and Regional Alcohol Markets (CIFRRA), the country can produce 150 million bottles of wine with a volume of 0.75 liters from Russian grapes. Agree, this is a lot. The conservative estimate of Roskachestvo experts is about 120 million bottles.

How to select these grape wines from the total volume of wine presented on Russian shelves?

Confirmation of wine origin

Over the past seven years, Russia has made significant progress in developing a system of protected geographical indications, which serves to control the origin and quality of wine throughout the world. This is a long process that took many countries more than one decade.

In 2012–2014, the first documents (National and Interstate GOST standards) were adopted for wines whose origin from Russian grapes is guaranteed by the state. Since 2017, the production of wines has begun, on the bottle of which an “excise” (federal special) stamp of a special type is placed indicating “Grape wine (special)”, “Sparkling wine (special)” or “Liquor wine (special)”. The word “special” indicates special control over the production of wine, special benefits that a producer working with Russian grapes receives, and the special quality of the finished product.

Having chosen for the study only the products of enterprises with a PGI or ZNMP license, Roskachestvo did not stop there. The system began to work relatively recently, and not all wines actually produced from Russian grapes have received federal special stamps of the new type.

In order to assess from which grapes specific brands of wine are produced, specialists from the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, on behalf of Roskachestvo, visited all wineries selected for the study and compiled reports on the area and composition of vineyards, and the available technical capabilities for wine production. Experts from the Wine Guide of Russia traveled more than 4 thousand kilometers along the roads of Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region, and the North Caucasus.

In addition to visiting the wineries, aerial photography of the vineyards was used.

Arthur Sargsyan

Chairman of the Roskachestvo working group on wine research, head of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia

– The Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia has been studying domestic winemaking for more than eight years, annually visiting wineries, selecting and tasting more than 1,600 samples at different stages of production every year. The main goal is to choose the best wines from Russian grapes. We used this experience in the Roskachestvo study. In Russia today there are about 89 thousand hectares of vineyards. This is together with the planting of table varieties and grapes, which are used for distillation. The farms that we studied have a total vineyard area of almost 40 thousand hectares. These are perhaps the highest quality vineyards that currently exist in the country.

As a result, the general brand list of wines made from Russian grapes included 926 wine samples. The brand list will be updated annually. Russia is a country with fairly pronounced climate risks in viticulture. The concept of a “good year” is very relevant for our country. Wine of the same brand, actually produced from Russian grapes, can vary significantly in quality, depending on the conditions of a particular year. Therefore, Roskachestvo wine research is planned to be made annual, increasing the number of samples studied.

Price and Availability

For the Wine Guide of Russia, it was decided to focus on wines that are produced in the largest quantities and are affordable. The initial brand list included wines produced in just a few hundred bottles and costing up to 6 thousand rubles. The rarest and most expensive examples may be sold in only a few boutiques and restaurants and be of interest to connoisseurs, but they are unlikely to have a serious impact on the wine shelf throughout the country.

Thus, the study included wines produced in quantities of at least 10 thousand bottles of one name in a specific vintage year. Preference was given to wines produced in quantities of more than 50–100 thousand bottles. In some cases, when the number of large-circulation wines of a certain category was insufficient for an objective comparison, a decision was made to purchase wines with a circulation of 10–50 thousand bottles.

The most widely produced wines in the study are produced in quantities of more than a million bottles and are available in almost any city in Russia. Studies of vineyards have confirmed the actual capabilities of Russian producers to produce wines in such quantities. Russia is a country of large proportions. Including in agriculture. The seven largest Russian wineries have areas ranging from 1.5 to 9 thousand hectares of fruit-bearing vineyards. In world practice, only a few companies manage their own vineyards of such an area, and there are only a few private companies owning a vineyard with an area of 8–10 thousand hectares.

Another selection criterion is affordability.

In the study, a price “ceiling” was chosen - 1000 rubles on a store shelf. But most of the wines studied cost much less than a thousand. Of the total brand list of wines (486 samples), 212 cost up to 350 rubles on the shelf, another 152 items are sold at prices from 350 to 500 rubles at retail.

– Five hundred rubles is a fundamentally important price limit for wines on store shelves. The majority of sales, especially outside Moscow and St. Petersburg, come from inexpensive wines. Up to half of the volume of wine that buyers in Russia purchase is wine up to 300–350 rubles, and the category “from 500 rubles” in regional retail chains accounts for virtually single sales. It is important to note that in this price category, Russian wines now need to compete on equal terms with imports from fairly well-known wine-growing regions of Europe and the New World. This means that the issue of the relationship between price and quality of wine in this price group is fundamental for producers, says Alexander Stavtsev, a member of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia, head of the WineRetail information center.

Research by Roskachestvo has repeatedly noted that an inexpensive product can be of high quality. One of the objectives of the study was to check whether the opinion about the low level of quality of Russian wines costing 250–500 rubles per bottle is true or whether it is a stereotype. Looking ahead, we note that in terms of price-quality ratio, a number of samples in the study turned out to be excellent.

Procurement and encryption of samples

The wines included in the brand list of the study were purchased by independent buyers in organized retail trade. Since we were talking about researching wines with the widest possible presence in Russia, they were purchased mainly from large retail chains. Buyers selected wines from the shelves of Pyaterochka, Magnit, Verny, Metro, Azbuka Vkusa stores and others.

From an initial brand list of 926 items, 496 items were selected that met the principles of price and availability. Of these, 320 wines were purchased, the most widely represented in retail trade.

Buyers purchased several bottles of each wine (including control and arbitration samples) to conduct the study. All wines were submitted for research to a laboratory accredited by the Federal Accreditation Service in an impersonal form. Not only the tasters, but also the laboratory staff knew only the code of the sample, which completely eliminated bias in the assessment.

Study details

Expert group

In the “Wine Guide of Russia” study, Roskachestvo for the first time focused not on laboratory tests, but on organoleptic indicators of wine quality. Simply put, on their color, aroma and taste.

To conduct the research and development of the National Catalog of Quality Russian Wines, a tasting commission of 23 Russian and two Italian experts with extensive experience in sensory evaluation of wines was formed. Thus, the Russian jury included the President of the Russian Association of Sommeliers Alexey Sidorov, sommeliers - Russian champions of different years (according to the Russian Association of Sommeliers and the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia) Alexey Fomichev, Pavel Kravchenko, Evgeny Bogdanov, judges of Russian international wine competitions, wine experts and journalists and teachers of wine schools Alexander Sidorov, Yuri Yudich, Alexander Stavtsev, Anton Obrezchikov, Andrey Ushakov. Author of the book “Wines of France” and legendary teacher Alexander Kuptsov, author of the most popular blog about wine Denis Rudenko. Chef sommelier of the Andrey Dellos Restaurant House Sergey Aksenovsky. Professional tasters and teachers certified by the international education system Wine & Spirit Education Trust Vasily Raskov and Dmitry Merezhko.

It should be noted that gender equality reigns among wine experts. For example, Margarita Krasnopolskaya became the first certified teacher of the international Wine & Spirit Education Trust (UK) system in Russia. The first title of Austrian wine academician Weinakademie Österreich among Russians was received by sommelier and wine school teacher Tatyana Selivanova. One of the first all-Russian sommelier competitions according to the Russian Sommelier Association was won by Yuliana Grigorieva, who today runs one of the reputable sommelier schools, Wine People. All of the listed titled persons from the world of wine experts were included in the jury of the competition. The jury also included Candidate of Biological Sciences, teacher Irina Godunova, head of the New Russian Wine project Elena Porman, certified expert tasters Svetlana Smirnova, Inna Inal-Ipa, Elena Bondarenko.

The international expert community was represented by Italian experts Alfredo Toccini, a representative of one of the largest European wine research laboratories, and Professor Riccardo Valentini, an expert in the field of oenology, scientist, Nobel Prize winner in the field of climate research and its impact on agriculture.

The head of the tasting commission was the most authoritative expert in the field of Russian wines, the champion of Russia in 2005 according to the RAS, the head of the Union of Sommeliers and Experts of Russia Artur Sarkisyan.

The main question that arises when assessing the quality of wine is the objectivity of the tasters.

It would seem that everyone has their own preferences. Some people like red, others white. How to find the truth? Are tasters, assessing wine in a glass, able to identify a falsified product, which the media has dubbed “powdered wine”?

In serious organoleptic studies, the tasting panel is an instrument that must be properly adjusted and whose operation is carefully monitored to assess objectivity.

The Roskachestvo study was carried out in a sensor laboratory equipped in accordance with Russian and international standards for conducting such studies (GOST 32051-2013 “Wine products. Methods of organoleptic analysis”, GOST ISO 13299-2015 “Organoleptic analysis. Methodology”) and having an accreditation certificate from the Federal Accreditation Service ( Russian Accreditation), as well as an expanded scope of accreditation for the training of selected testers.

Before the start of the study, each taster, regardless of regalia, had to confirm the level of his competence and undergo a sensory sensitivity confirmation procedure, during which the level of sensory sensitivity was assessed when assessing color, taste and aroma. Then the tasters were tested for their ability to distinguish wine defects (vegetable tones, the smell of onions, rotten eggs - indicating diseases of the wine associated with violations of production technology), as well as impurities unrelated to the product (artificially introduced grain alcohol, flavorings). Finally, the “convergence” and “reproducibility” of the results were assessed when the same wine was asked to be assessed “blindly” a few minutes apart or the next day. All results were recorded and compared.

Only after successfully passing all these tests was it decided to include the taster in the group of selected testers.

Research procedure

The study was carried out according to strict rules set out in the regulations of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (WOVV/OIV), in GOST 32051-2013 “Wine products. Methods of organoleptic analysis" and GOST ISO 5492-2014 "Organoleptic analysis" for conducting sensory assessment of wine products.

According to the rules, the commission could not examine more than 50 wine samples per day, which were served over four tasting sessions with breaks. Thus, the work to evaluate 320 samples lasted more than a week.

Before the start of the study, the temperature and humidity in the room were assessed (their parameters are also recorded in the standard).

If the taster used perfume before starting work or had difficulty smelling due to a runny nose, he was removed from the tasting.

“The entire study was organized at a very high technical and methodological level,” noted Alfredo Tocchini, an expert from the largest Italian laboratory VIMEA, who took part in the work of the commission. – Our laboratory annually conducts instrumental and sensory studies of more than a million wine samples, and I can say that the organoleptic assessment in Moscow was carried out simply perfectly!

Tasters worked in individual booths where they could concentrate and did not see the reactions to their colleagues' wines. At traditional tastings, where the entire commission gathers at one table, an approving or negative remark from a recognized master can affect the entire assessment of the commission.

In the Roskachestvo study, each expert was left alone with a glass and his own opinion. The shape of the glass is also approved by the standard, and 700 standard glasses suitable for tasting all types of wines were specially purchased for the study. Exactly the same ones are used by tasters at the largest international wine competitions held according to the standards of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (OWV/OIV).

Rating system

In the process of assessing samples, professional tasters do not swallow wine, but spit it into a special sink equipped with each tasting booth. For an experienced specialist, it is enough to completely wash the oral cavity with wine to evaluate its taste and aftertaste, and after the final coffee break, each expert could successfully take a breathalyzer test, because assessing each of the 12 parameters of wine requires an absolutely clear mind.

The standard electronic questionnaire for each sample includes four main groups of parameters:

appearance;
aroma;
taste;
the general impression, which is also called the “harmony” of the sample.

The three main parameters are divided into "descriptors". For the appearance of a wine, this is transparency and quality of color (an experienced taster can determine the fault of a wine by extraneous shades in color without even trying it). When evaluating sparkling wines, the taster also evaluates the “game” (or “perlage” - in professional language). For aroma: purity, intensity, quality of aroma. For taste, this is also purity, intensity, quality, as well as aftertaste.

– In my work, my colleagues and I, as a rule, deal with higher-level wines, serious and expensive restaurant items. But the “basic values” are the same for all wines. In this study, we did not expect a particularly complex bouquet or noble tones of aging in taste from inexpensive samples. But even inexpensive “everyday” wine can be of quite high quality. We were primarily interested in purity in aroma and taste, the absence of defects, foreign tones, shades of oxidation, and burning tones in the aftertaste due to exceeding the threshold of “volatile acids.” I can say that there were much fewer frankly bad samples than we expected,” says Yuliana Grigorieva, director of the Wine People sommelier school.

The Italian expert, Professor Riccardo Valentini, also agrees with his Russian colleague.

“I noted for myself the purity of Russian sparkling wines,” said scientist Riccardo Valentini.

The taster evaluates each of the descriptors in numbers, which add up to the final rating of the wine. For the Russian Wine Guide, the international 100-point scale of the World Organization of Vine and Wine (WOVV/OIV) was used.

Higher than according to GOST

In accordance with the Russian GOST, a wine that scores at least 71 points is considered “good.” Roskachestvo adopted an increased level of 78 points as a starting point. This is the average value between GOST “good” and “excellent” (86 points).

Read more about the 100-point wine rating system.

Research results

All wine products that underwent quality assessment were divided into five groups (in accordance with GOST R 55242-2012 “Wines of protected geographical indications and wines of protected appellations of origin. General technical conditions”, GOST 32030-2013 “Table wines and table wine materials. General technical conditions", GOST 33336-2015 "Sparkling wines. General technical conditions", GOST 32715-2014 "Liquor wines, liqueur wines with a protected geographical indication, liqueur wines with a protected designation of origin").

Sparkling and pearl wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, as well as wines of the traditional name “Russian champagne” in the brut, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet categories).
Red grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry and semi-sweet).
White grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet).
Rose grape wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines, dry, semi-dry and semi-sweet).
Liqueur wines (including PGI and ZNMP wines).

The study included wines of 320 names from 26 producers representing the largest wine-growing regions of southern Russia (Republic of Crimea, Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region).

Of the 114 red wines, 68% scored ≥78;
Of the 104 white wines, 56 received ≥78 points for 54%;
Of the 19 rosé wines, 9 received ≥78 points for 47%;
Of the 51 sparkling wines, 38 received ≥78 points 75%;
Of the 32 liqueur wines, 29 received ≥78 points 90%;

These are 38 sparkling wines, 56 white, 9 rose, 78 red wines; 29 types of liqueur wines.

The category of dry red wines stands out among white, red, rose and sparkling wines due to their stability and level of quality (78.7% of the studied samples were included in the “Russian Wine Guide”). Winemakers are almost as good at sparkling wines of different categories (74.5% of quality wines).

There are much more difficulties in the category of white and rosé wines with different sugar content (53.85 and 45% of wines, respectively, with scores of 78 points and above).

If we look in more detail at the categories of wines by sugar content, the category of semi-sweet red wines turned out to be the most problematic in terms of quality: only five samples out of 18 studied are worthy of attention (27.8%).

But white semi-dry wines showed excellent results - 10 out of 11 wines were highly rated (91% of the samples studied).

Summing up the results of the study, it is worth noting that in Russia, of course, there are high-quality wines at an affordable price. In each of the studied categories, wines in the price group from 200 to 500 rubles were highly rated. Moreover, price is not necessarily a marker of quality. A number of samples with a higher price were inferior in estimates to democratic positions.

Russian winemaking is developing, and the “Russian Wine Guide” project will develop along with it, creating guidelines for buyers in choosing quality wines from Russian grapes. In 2019, it is planned to expand the scope of the study and evaluate at least 500 Russian wines.

The domestic wine industry does not have a very good reputation, and because of this, everyone thinks that there is nothing to do in our vineyards. In fact, everything went well in Russia until about the beginning of the twentieth century, and then - first war, then revolution, then war again - there was no time for wine. In 1985, Gorbachev passed prohibition, and all the vineyards that had managed to be restored and planted were destroyed or repurposed production for juices. The industry began to come to its senses only at the beginning of the 2000s, but even during this time our winemakers managed to achieve a lot.

Krasnodar region

In the Krasnodar region, wines are made from international and autochthonous (those that grow only in a specific area) grape varieties. The first include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and riesling wines.

Wines from autochthonous varieties are distinguished by their authentic taste and aroma. We have fewer of them, but they are worth hunting for: Krasnostop Zolotovsky, citron magaracha, cupid, black Tsimlyansky, saperavi, rkatsiteli.

How much does housing cost?

On average, a room in a hostel in Krasnodar costs up to one and a half thousand, in a hotel - two or more (hereinafter - according to booking.com). In other cities and villages prices are approximately the same. It’s better to plan and book in advance, because good options sell out quickly, and the cost of housing increases significantly from May to August.

How much does a tasting cost?

The richer the winery’s infrastructure, the more expensive the tourism programs. The minimum cost is about 500 rubles per person. The “package” includes a short excursion and tasting of 4-5 wine samples.

In-depth programs include more wines, meetings with the winemaker, horseback riding and other activities - each winery has its own. In this case, participation may cost several thousand rubles.

Lefkadia Valley, Krasnodar region. Photo: lefkadia.ru

The largest wineries:

“Abrau Durso” - in addition to excursions and tastings, there is a hotel, SPA, yoga, beach, bicycles and a lot of other tourist pleasures. On the territory of the complex there is a lake and forests. It’s not for nothing that the place is called the “Russian Riviera”.

“Lefkadia” - here tourists can visit the wine museum and cheese factory, go hunting or fishing, and even have a wedding. In June, lavender fields of indescribable beauty bloom in the valley.

“Kuban-Vino” - the largest producer in Russia offers excursions to three (!) wineries, tastings in the format of a wine casino and wine painting lessons.

Places recommended by Valeria Ivannikova, wine guide in the Krasnodar region:

“Sober Bash” is the winery closest to Krasnodar, located in a picturesque location near the mountain of the same name. Here tourists are offered an interesting set of wines from autochthonous grape varieties. I recommend trying aged Saperavi and Krasnostop Zolotovsky.

Gunko Winery- a new winery 53 kilometers from Anapa, where it is worth trying sparkling wines, sauvignon blanc and malbec.

“Myskhako Estate” is a winery near Novorossiysk with its own restaurant, snail farm and branded store. The complex offers magnificent views of the city and the sea. At the restaurant, order the Cru wine line.

“Golubitskoye Estate” is a beautiful winery and a real art object on the shores of the Azov Sea with a tour desk, a shop and an observation deck. Be sure to try the red and rosé pinot noir there.

Interactive map - follow the link

What else to see

Bike festival “Taman - Peninsula of Freedom” - August 1–4.

International Yoga Festival Asana Festival - August 24–31.

Republic of Crimea

In Crimea there are factories opened by Count Golitsyn, enterprises from Soviet times and completely new wineries - if you go to all the tastings, you can taste how Russian winemaking has developed from the 19th century to the present day. And for most Russians, Crimea is a nostalgia for childhood, pioneer camps and camping trips. Therefore, watching the sunset here with a glass of wine is a special pleasure.

Where to stay

A hostel or one-room apartment in Simferopol will cost one and a half to two thousand rubles per day, a hotel room - from two and a half thousand. It’s more expensive in Sevastopol: the most budget accommodation there costs from two thousand rubles per night (according to tvil.ru). It’s probably worth paying a little extra, because from here you’ll spend less time traveling to the wineries, and in between tastings you’ll be able to swim in the sea.

How much does a tasting cost?

About the same as in the Krasnodar Territory - from 500 rubles for a minimum set of wines, from 1000 for an expanded program.

Uppa Winery, Republic of Crimea. Photo: uppa.club

Wineries

"Massandra" - the oldest enterprise in the country, is famous for its dessert and fortified wines. Be sure to try the port and muscat aged in oak barrels. And here you need to look at the legendary “golden” collection of wines in the old cellars of the plant.

“Zolotaya Balka” - a winery with a century-old history received a new life with a new owner in 2005. Now there is a modern production facility, an art park with entertainment for adults and children, a brand store, a restaurant and a rooftop bar with mountain views - here you can also try wine cocktails.

Alma Valley- a new large-scale ultra-modern project. Its main advantage is a wide variety of wines: there are basic dry, aged, experimental rare varieties, icevines **(sweet wines made from grapes harvested in winter) andTVA (wines made from raisined grapes with noble mold).**

“New World” is a sparkling wine factory founded by Lev Golitsyn. You need to come here to look at the heritage - without exaggeration - of the father of Russian winemaking and to taste champagne produced using classical technology. Which, by the way, was very popular at the court of Nicholas II.

Uppa Winery is a chamber winery that produces natural biodynamic wines. Even now, when everything “eco” is in trend, such wines are rare, so you need to taste them. Moreover, Pavel Shvets, the famous Russian sommelier and winemaker, is responsible for their production.

“Satera (Esse wines)” - besides the wines, the tasting format is interesting here. Instead of excursions, museums and tasting rooms - dinner at sunset, instead of master classes - live communication.

Interactive map - follow the link

What else to see

Electronic music festival Sun Spirit Festival - June 8–12.

Lavender Festival in Alushta - every year in early July.

Koktebel Jazz Party Festival - August 23–25.

Georgia

Tourists from all over the world love Georgia because it is interesting, beautiful and very tasty. Winemaking here is as important a part of the national culture as the native language.

Georgia is the birthplace of qvevri, clay wine jugs one and a half to two meters high. Traditionally, they were buried in the ground, grapes were poured in there in the fall, the neck was sealed with clay and left until spring. Such wines are very different from wines prepared in the classic European way (aged in an oak barrel or metal tank), and they also contain little sulfur, which is appreciated by fans of all things natural.

Georgia is one of the few countries that produce more white wine than red. Don't leave until you try white qvevri . This wine has a golden-amber color with green tea and spices in its taste, it is tart and drinks warm - which is absolutely not typical for white wine.